SCENES 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 



OKEGON, CALIFORNIA, NEW MEXICO, TEXAS, AND 
THE GEAND PRAIRIES; 



NOTES BY THE WAY, 

DtJRING AN EXCURSION OF THREE YEARS, 

WITH A 

DESCRIPTiON OF THE COUNTRIES PASSED THROUGH. 



INCLUDING THEIR 



GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, RESOURCES, PRESENT CONDITION, 
AND THE DIFFERENT NATIONS INHABITING THEM. 



BY RUFUS B. SAGE. 



Qctonh Qt'bilion l^cv\5ch. 



PHILADELPHIA 

CAREY AND HA R T 

1847. 




Entered, according Act of Congress, in the Year of our Lord 1846. 

BY RUFUS B. SAGE, 

in the Clerk's Office of the United States District Court for the Southern District 
of the State of ISew-York. 



rrintfil l)y T. K. & P. G Collins 






^ 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 



Objects of a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movements. A Digression, 
Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a 
first visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indians. 13 

CHAPTER II. 

Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp. Things as they appeared. Simpli- 
city of mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Character, habits, and costume 
of mountaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The command- 
ant. En route. Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish compa- 
ny. Grouse. Elm Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle. 16 

CHAPTER III. 

The Pottowatomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Springs. 
The Caw chief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for wliiskey. Hick- 
ory timber. Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. 
Return party. Mountaineers in California. Ad ventiure with a buffalo. In- 
dian atrocities. Liquor and the Fur Trade. Strict guard. High prices. 23 

CHAPTER IV. 

Country from the frontiers to Big Blue ; its geological character, &c. Novel cure 
for fever and ague. Indian trails. Game. Large rabbits. Antelope, and 
their peculiarities. Beaver cuttings. Big Blue and its vicirdty. Dangerous 
country. Pawnee bravery. Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) Platte river. 
Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanative of 
of their phenomenon. Something to laugh at. " Big Jim " and the ante- 
lope. 30 

CHAPTER V. 

Deserted camp. Big Jim's third attempt as a hunter. Buffalo and other particu- 
lars. Big Jim lying guard. Butchering. Strange selections. Extraordi- 
nary eating, and excellence cf buffalo meat. Brady's Island. The mur- 
derer's fate. Substitute for wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange 
infatuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life, and how to hunt them. Cross S. 
Fork of Platte. Big Jim's fourth adventure. 39 



IV. CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Ash creek. Pawnnee and Sioux battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle's Nest. 
Mad wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. Mad 
bull. Making and curing meat. Big Jim stUl unfortunate. Johnson's creek. 
McFarlan's Castle. Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort. 
Brave Bear. Bull Tail. Talk with the Indians. Speech of Marto-cog- 
ershne. Reply. Tahtungah-sana's address. 49 

CHAPTER VII. 

The Chimney. A bet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott's Bluff Roman- 
tic scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden. 
Moxintain sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer's grave. 
Horse creek and gold. Goche's hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Remarks 
by the way. Prairie travel. liOcality and description of the Fort. Indian 
lodges. Migratory habits of mountain and prairie tribes. Scenes at Fort. 
Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral. Speech of Etespa- 
huska on the death of his father. 60 

CHAPTER Vni. 

Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smoking out the natives. Inci- 
dent illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black Hills. 
Rawhide. An Indian and a buffalo chase. Deep snow, extreme cold, and 
painful journey. L'eau-qui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river ; its val- 
ley, fruits, and game. Building site. The Devil's Tea-pot. Troubles with 
Indians. Theft and its punishment. Indian soldiers. Christmas extras. 
Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. " That Old Serpent." Indian 
superstition, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon general morality. 71 

CHAPTER IX. 

Dangers cormected with the liquor trade. Difficulty with Bull Eagle. Scenes 
of bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man 
becomes tutored in vice. A cliief 's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. 
Indian mode of courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic. Di- 
vorce. PluraUty of wives. 82 

CHAPTER X. 

Tahtunga-egoniska. High gaming. Weur-sena WarkpoUo, a strange story. 
The Death Song, a tale of love. Medicine-men. Extraordinary perform- 
ance of Tahtunga-mobeUu. Wonderful feats of jugglery. 89 

CHAPTER XL 

Food for horses. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat. Re- 
turn to Fort. Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medi- 
cine-making. A Burial. Little Lodge and the French trader. A speech 



CONTENTS. 



in council. Journey to White river. ITigh winds and snow. Intense suf- 
ferings and painful results. 97 

CHAPTER XII. 

Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up. 
Daring feat of wolves. A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte. 
Boat building. Hunting expedition. Journey up the Platte. Island camp. 
Narrow escape. Snow storm. Warm Spring. Pass of the Platte into the 
prairies. A valley. Bitter Cottonwood. Indian forts. Wild fruit. Root- 
digging. Cherry tea and its uses. Geology of the country. Soils, grasses, 
herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere. Horse-shoe creek. A panther. 
Prairie dogs and their peculiarities. 103 

CHAPTER XIII. 

"le Creek valley. The Platte as a mountain stream. Canon, Romantic pros* 
pect. Comical bear story. Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. Ge- 
ological remarks. Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La Route's 
creek. Remarks by the way. Service-berry. Deer Creek. General 
observations. Moccasin making. Box-elder. Bear killed. Excellence of 
its flesh. Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the mountains. The 
grizzly bear, his nature and habits. 110 

CHAPTER XIV. 

ate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering. 
)se contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Canon camp. Sage 
es. Mountain sheep, and all about them. Independence Rock ; why so 
Jed, and description of it. DeviPs Gate. Landscape scenery. 117 

CHAPTER XV. 

Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass. 
Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medichie 
Bow. Dangerous country. A light with the Sioux. The " Carcague." 
A surprise. Visit to the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow 
nation. Sellmg a prisoner for tobacco. Description of Laramie Plains. 123 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Sibille's-hole. Novel bitters. Chugwater. Gold. Curiosity. Affairs at the 
Fort. Amusements. Gambling among squaws, and games played. Squaw 
dresses, and riding fashion. Items of interest to the curious, proving the in- 
tercourse of the ancient Romans with the people of this continent. 132 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Singular exhibition of natural affection. Embark for the States. Scarcity of 
provisions and consequent hardship and suffering. Extraordinary daring of 



vi. CONTENTS. 



wolves. Difficulties of navigation. Novel diet. Fishing. A fish story, 
and another to match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal situation. 
Extreme exposure. Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat. Re-supply of 
provisions. Camp on fire. A picture of Platte navigation. Country north 
of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian benevolence. Summary of hard- 
ships and deprivations. Abandon voyage. 139 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Hunting excursion. Thirst more painful than hunger. Geological observations. 
Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage 
in an empty boat. Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluff Plover 
creek. Cache Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring com- 
pany. A horrible situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee village. Exem- 
plary benevolence of an Indian chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days' 
starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff Proceed to Independence. 147 

CHAPTER XIX. 

The country Detw^een the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort 
Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. 
Indian hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Bea- 
ver creek. Bijou. Chabonard's camp. Country described. Medicine 
Lodge. The Chyennes ; their character and history. Arrive at Fort Lan- 
caster. Different localities in its neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins. 154 

CHAPTER XX. 

Old acquaintances. Indian murders. Mode of travelling in a dangerous coun- 
try Mexican traders. Summary way of teacliing manners. Fort Lancas- 
ter and surrounding country. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connect- 
ing observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. 
Camp of free traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty's creek. Observations 
relative to the Divide. Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors. The lone trav- 
ellers. Arrive at the Arkansas. General remarks. Curious specimens of 
cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural Soda fountain. Indian superstition. 
Enchanting scency. Extraordinary wall of sandstone. 162 

CHAPTER XXL 

Vicinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its val- 
leys and scenery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the country 
travelled over. Taos ; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. Ranches and Ran- 
cheros. Mexican houses ; their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty 
and deplorable condition of the lower classes of IMexicans, with a general 
review of their character, and some of the causes contributing to their pre- 
sent degradation. The Pueblo Indians and their strange notions. Ancient 
temple. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the Umtah river, and obser- 
vations by the way. Taos Utahs, Pa-utahs, Uintah and Lake Utahs. Tlie 



CONTENTS. VU. 

Diggers ; misery of their situation, strange mode of lying, with a sketch of 
their character. The Navijos; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards, 
ludicrous barbarity, bravery, &c., with a sketch of their country', and why 
they are less favorable to the whites than formerly. 171 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Uintah trade. Snake Indians; their country and character. Description of 
Upper California. The Eastern Section. Great Salt Lake and circumjacent 
country. Desert. Digger country, and regions south. Ferlility of soil. 
Prevailing rock and minerals. Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game. 
Valley of the Colorado. Magnificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and 
other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila. Face of the country, soil &c. Sweet 
spots. Mildness of climate, and its healtliiness. The natives. Sparsity of 
inhabitants. No government. All about the Colorado and Gila rivers. 
Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells. Practicable routes from 
the United States. 182 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Jlinerals. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. 
Principal rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. 
Other Bays and Harbors. Description of the country ; territory northwest 
of the Sacramento ; Tlamath Mountains ; California range and its vicinity ; 
southern parts ; timber, river-bottoms ; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, 
and Tulare ; their extent, fertility, timber, and fruit ; wild grain and clover, 
spontaneous; wonderful fecundity of soil, and its products ; the productions, 
climate, rains, and dews ; geological and mineralogical character ; face of 
the country ; its water ; its healtliiness ; game ; superabundance of cattle, 
horses, and sheep, their prices, &c. ; beasts of prey ; the inhabitants, who ; 
Indians, their character and condition ; Capital of the Province, with other 
towns ; advantages of San Francisco ; inland settlements ; foreigners and 
Mexicans ; Government ; its full military strength. Remarks. 189 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Visitors at Uintah. Adventures of a trappmg party. The Munchies, or white 
Indians ; some account of them. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious 
city, and attempts at its exploration,— speculation relative to its inhabitants. 
Leave for Fort Hall. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. 
States and Mexico. Green valleys, &c. Country en route. Brown's-hole. 
Geological observations. Soda, Beer, and Steamboat springs ; their peculi- 
arities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river ; its fertility, timber, and abun- 
dance of wild fruit. Buffalo berries. Superior advantages of this section. 
Mineral tar. jgg 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Fort Hall ; its history, and iocaUty. Information relative to Oregon. Bound- 



CONTENTS. 



aries and extent of the territory. Its rivers and lakes, with a concise descrip- 
tion of them severally. Abundance and variety of fish and water-fowl. 
Harbors and islands. Oregon as a whole ; its mountains and geographical 
divisions. Eastern Divison ; its wild scenery; valleys, soil, and timber ; 
volcanic ravages ; country between Clarke's river and the Columbia. North 
of the Columbia ; its general character. Middle Division ; its valleys, prai- 
ries, highlands, and forests. Western Division ; a beautiful country ; ex- 
tensive valleys of extraordinary fertility ; productive plains ; abundance of 
timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief summary of facts. 206 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Climate of Oregon ; its variableness ; its rains ; a southern climate in a north- 
ern latitude. Productiveness ; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and culti- 
vated. Geological characteristics. Soils and prevaiUng rock. Minerals, 
&c. Variety of game. Wolves. Horses, and other domestic animals. 
Population, white and native ; Indian tribes, their character and condition. 
Missionary stations, and their improvements. Present trade of Oregon. 
Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements. Oregon City, its situa- 
tion and advantages ; about Linnton ; about Wallammette valley, Fualitine 
plains and Umpqua river ; Vancouvre, and its superior advantages. Kind- 
ness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers. 217 

CHAPTER XVII. 

The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advan- 
tages reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and 
requisite equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United 
States. Incident in the early history of Fort Hall. Why the Blackfeet are 
hostile, and bright spots in their character. Mild weather. Leave for the 
Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and sketch of the intermediate country. 
New Park. Head of Grand river. The landscape. Different routes to 
Fort Lancaster. Old Park. 225 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

From Grand river to Bayou Salade. Observations by the way. Description of 
the Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en 
route. Crystal creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remark- 
able sagacity of wolves. Snow storms and amusement. Ravenn. Move 
camp. Comfortable winter quarters. Animal food conducive to general 
health and longevity. A laughable instance of sound sleeping. Astonish- 
ing wolfine rapacity. Beaver lodges and all about beaver. Hunting excur- 
sion. Vasques' creek, its valleys, table lands, mountains, and prairies. 
Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care to avoid danger. A nocturnal 
visitor. Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimen of 
"gettin down stairs." Geological statistics. 233 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Return to the Fort. Texan recruiting officer. New plans. Volunteer. The 
Chance Shot, or Special Providence. Texan camp. Country contiguous 
to the Arkansas, from Fontaine qui Bouit to the Rio de las Animas. 
Things at rendezvous. A glance at the company. Disposal of force. March 
up the de las Animas. The country ; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, 
to the de las Animas. The latter stream ; its canon, valley and enchanting 
scenery. Tedious egress. Unparalleled suffering from hunger, toil, and 
cold. Wolf flesh and buffalo hide. Painful consequences of eating cacti. 
A feast of mule meat after seven days' starvation. Camp at the Taos trail. 
The adjacent country. Strict guard. A chase. The meet reward for 
treason. 244 

CHAPTER XXX. 

March down the Cimarone. Junction of the two divisions. Country between 
the de las Animas and the Cimarone. Perilous descent. Canon of the 
Cimarone. Soil and prevailing rock. A fort. Grandeur and sublimity of 
scenery. Beauty of rocks. Cimarone of the pain. Fruits and game. Wide- 
spread desolation. A dreary country. Summer on the Desert. Remarks. 
Encoimter with Indians. Nature's nobleman. Wild horses and different 
modes of catching them. Failure of expected reinforcements. March into 
the enemy's country. Ancient engravings upon a rock. Boy in the wolf's 
den. A man lost. Forced march. Torment of tliirst. Remarks. The 
lost found. Expulsion for cowardice, — its effect. 253 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Mexican camp. Pursuit. Advance upon Mora. Enemy discovered. Coun- 
try between the Rio de las Animas and Mora ; its picturesque beauty. Ad- 
mirable point of observation. Fortified position. Battle of the pass ; order 
of attack, passage of the river, storming the enemy's camp, and number of 
killed, wounded and prisoners. Council of war. Prisoners released. 
Message to Amijo. Return march. Mexican anny. Attacked, and results 
of action. Mexican bravery. Retreat. Cross the Table Mountain. New 
species of wild onions. March down the de las Animas. Discouragements 
accumulate. Disband. Sketch cf factions. Texan prisoners. Arrival of 
reinforcements. Battle of the Arroyo : killed, wounded, and prisoners. 
Retreat of Amijo. " Stampede." Frightful encounter with the Cumanches 
and Kuyawas. Discharge of troops. Affair with Capt. Cook. Surrender 
to U. S. Dragoons, and failure of expedition. Return to Texas. Journey 
to the Platte. Country between the Arkansas and Beaver creek. Feasting 
at camp. Crows' eggs. Lateness of season. Snow-storm in June. An 
Indian fort. Serio-comico adventure with a wolf. Lidians. Song of the 
night-bird. 262 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

Lost. Night on the Prairie. Head of the Kansas river. Minerals. Country. 
Gold. Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. Indians. Join the 
A-rapahos. Moving village. Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. 
Canon. Reach Fort Lancaster. Fortune bettered. News from the States. 
Murder. Extraordinary instances of human tenacity to life. Arrival of 
Indians. Theft. Chyenne outrage. Return of Oregon emigrants. " Old 
Bob," and his adventures. A " Protracted Meeting," or Indian Medicine- 
making. Indian oath. Jaunt to the mountains. Mottntain scenery. Camp 
on Thompson's creek. Wild fruits. Concentration of valleys. Romantic 
view, A gem in the mountains. Grand river pass. Salt lakes. Aston- 
ishing scope of vision. Tlie black-tailed deer. Peculiarity in horses. Re- 
markable natural fortification. Return. Travelling by guess. 273 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Newspapers. False reports. Singular grasses. Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster. 
An excursion. An incident. Camp. Huge horns. Leopard. Panther. 
Slaughter of eagles. Dressing skins. The hunter's camp. Vasques' creek. 
The weather. Return of comrades to Fort. Sweets of solitude. Expo- 
sure in a snow-storm. The canon of S. Fork Platte. A ridge. A val- 
ley. Beautiful locality. Choice site for a settlement. Flowers in February. 
A hunting incident. Fate of the premature flowers. Adventure with a 
sheep. Discovered by Indians. A pleasant meeting. Camp at Crystal 
creek. Thoughts of home. Resolve on going. Commence journey. The 
caravan. " Big Timber." Country to the " Crossing." Big Salt Bottom. 
Flowers. A stranger of other lands. Difficulty with Indians. " Friday." 
Tedious travelling. No timber. Detention. Country. Pawnee Fork. 
Mountain and Spanish companies. Spy Buck, the Shawnee war-chief. 
Pawnee Fork. — Cure for a rattlesnake's bite. Further detention. Sketch 
of adjacent country. Pawnee Rocks. En route with Friday. Mus-quetoes. 
Observations. Friday as a hunter. 287 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Thfi Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. Tenets of the mountain Indians 
in reference to a future state of rewards and punishments. The " water 
bull." Country between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locatity 
for settlement. Sudden rise of water. Separate routes. Dangerous travel- 
ling. Osage village. Osages, and all about tliem. Arrival at Van Buren, 
Arkansas. Concluding remarks. 297 



PREFACE. 



The growing interest entertained by the American public in reference 
to the subjects mainly treated upon in the volume now before the reader, is 
deemed a sufficient apology for its appearance. The late act of our National 
Legislature in the annexation of Texas, bringing with it, as it does, a very 
considerable portion of the Province of Santa Fe, together with the existing 
hostilities between our own and the Republic of Mexico, preparing the way 
for a no distant acquisition of the Californias, not to mention the recent agita- 
tion of the American claim to the whole of Oregon, as yet scarcely subsided, 
has directed the attention of most minds more than usually towards the affairs 
and condition of the Great West — particularly that section of it contigu- 
ous to the Rocky Mountains. But, although our newspapers teem with 
professed descriptions of those countries embraced within its limits, and 
are redundant with animadversions upon their admitted importance — while 
the ambitious politician prates of them learnedly, and 'quotes by the day 
from fugitive paragraphs of doubful verity, gleaned here and there as 
chance may favor him — a palpable ignorance is evinced throughout in re- 
gard to a vast store of interesting particulars. 

To fill up in some measure this wide vacuum of general information, is 
the author's object in his present undertaking. With this view he has en- 
deavored to present a full and comprehensive picture of the real condition 
of regions so attractive as are the above, and in so doing he is conscious of 
having erred in no important particular. Whatever is affirmed, may be 
relied upon as matter of fact ; while details of a questionable nature may 
be inferred from the guarded language in which they are expressed. So 
far as his personal knowledge is concerned, he has spoken without reserve ; 
but information based upon second-hand authority, is given as such. 

The catalogue of facts relative to the manner in which the fur trade is 
conducted, and the enormities chargeable upon the individuals engaged in 
it, may be objected to as unnecessarily minute ; but, regarded, as it should 
be, as one of the explanatory causes of Indian degradation, it will hardly 
fail to secure a ready acquiescence from the reader. Justice to the " red 
man " demands only a rehearsal of the simple truth, that condemnation may 
be awarded to the doubly guilty. 



xii. PREFACE. 

The narrative of the Texan expedition sent against New Mexico in the 
spring of 1843, with its mishaps, and conflicts with the Mexicans and In- 
dians, added to a statement of its surrender to the U. S. Dragoons, and the 
causes which led to its final dispersion, will doubtless claim attention, as 
being the only account of it hitherto published. 

In his notes of travel it has been the author's endeavor to avoid prolixity ; 
and, while his acting motto has been to say as much as possible in a few 
words, he has not withheld full descriptions of the various scenes and coun- 
tries that met his view during his lengthy excursion. He is well aware 
that his style is partially deficient in the ease and gracefulness peculiar to 
some writers ; but here he would offer no apology — it is his own, and for 
it he neither asks the favor of critics nor expects their lenity. 

Fully persuaded that a work of this kind will prove acceptable at the 
present time, the author would fain believe the public in general are more 
regardful of its intrinsic merits than of the garb in which it appears, and 
with these observations he is content to abide the result. 

New-York, July, 1846. 



SCENES 



THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC 



CHAPTER I. 



Objects of a proposed excursion. — Primary plans and movements. — A digression. 

Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. — Sensations on a first 
visit to tlie border Prairies. — Frontier Indians. 

My purpose in visiting the Rocky Mountains, and countries adjacent, 
having hitherto proved a fruitful source of inquiry to the many persons I meet, 
when aware of my having devoted three years to travel in those remote 
regions, and I am so plied with almost numberless other questions, I know 
of no better way to dispose of them satisfactorily, than by doing what I 
had thought of at the outset, to wit : writing a book. 

But, says one, more books have been already written upon subjects of a 
, kindred nature, than will ever find readers. True, indeed ; yet I must 
venture one more ; and this much I promise at the start: it shall be different, 
in most respects, from all that have preceded it ; and if I fail to produce an 
agreeable variety of adventures, interwoven with a large fund of valuable 
information, then I shall not have accomplished my purpose. 

Yet, ' why did I go ? — what w^as my object ?' Let me explain : Dame 
Nature bestowed upon me lavishly that innate curiosity, and fondness for 
things strange and new, of which every one is more or less possessed. 
Phrenologists would declare my organ of Inquisitiveness to be largely 
developed ; and, certain it is, 1 have a great liking to tread upon unfre- 
quented ground, and mingle among scenes at once novel and romantic. 
Love of adventure, then, was the great prompter, while an enfeebled state 
of health sensibly admonished me to seek in other parts that invigorating 
air and climate denied by the diseased atmosphere of a populous country! 
I also wished to acquaint myself with the geography of those comparatively 
unexplored regions,— their geological character, curiosities, resources, and 
natural advantages, together with their real condition, present inbabitants, 
inducements \g emigrants, and most favorable localities for settlements, to 
enable me to speak trom personal knowledge upon subjects so interesting 
to the public mind, at the present time, as are the above. Here, then, were 



14 RENDEZVOUS OF OREGON EMIGRANTS. 



objects every way worthy of attention, and vested with an importance that 
would render my excursion not a mere idle jaunt for the gratification of 
selfish curiosity. This much by way of prelude, — now to the task in hand. 

While yet undecided as to the most advisable mode of prosecuting my 
intended enterprise, on learning that a party of adventurers were rendez- 
voused at Westport, Mo., preparatory to their long and arduous journey to 
the new-formed settlements of the Columbia river, I hastened to that place, 
where I arrived in the month of May, 1841, with the design of becoming 
one of their number. In this, however, I was doomed to disappointment 
by being too late. A few weeks subsequent marked the return of several 
fur companies, from their annual excursions to the Indian tribes inhabiting 
the regions adjacent to the head-waters of the Platte and Arkansas rivers, 
whose outward trips are performed in the fall months. Impatient at delay 
and despairing of a more eligible opportunity, for at least some time to come, 
I made prompt arrangements with one of them, to accompany it, en route, 
as far as the Rocky Mountains, intending to proceed thereafter as circum- 
stances or inclination might suggest. This plan of travelling was adhered 
to, notwithstanding the detention of some three months, which retarded its 
prosecution. 

I would here beg indulgence of the reader to a seeming digression. The 
pecuhar locality of the places to whose vicinity he is now introduced, owing 
to the deep interest cherished in the public mind relative to the Oregon coun- 
try, will doubtless call for more than a mere passing notice : I allude to the 
towns of Independence and Westport. Situated as they are, at the utmost 
verge of civilization, and upon the direct route to Oregon and regions adja- 
cent, they must retain and command, as the great starting points for emigrants 
and traders, that importance already assumed by general consent. Their 
facilities of access from all parts of the Union, both by land and water, are 
nowhere exceeded. The proud Missouri rolls its turbid waves within six 
miles of either place, opening the highway of steam communication, while 
numberless prime roads that converge from every direction, point to them as 
their common focus. Thus, the staid New Englander may exchange his na- 
tive hills for the frontier prairies in the short interval of two weeks ; and in 
half that time the citizen of the sunny South may reach the appointed ren- 
dezvous ; and, nearer by, the hardy emigrant may commence his long over- 
land journey, from his own door, fully supplied with all the necessaries for 
its successful termination. 

Independence is the seat of justice for Jackson county. Mo., about four 
hundred miles west by north of St. Louis, and contains a population of 
nearly two thousand. Westport is a small town in the same county, near 
the mouth of the Kansas river, — three miles from the Indian territory, and 
thirty below the U. S. Dragoon station at Fort Leavenworth. The regular 
routes to Santa Fe and Oregon date their commencement at these places. 
The country in this vicinity is beginning to be generally settled by thrifty 
farmers, from whom all the articles necessary for travellers and traders, may 
be procured upon reasonable terms. 

Starting from either of the above points, a short ride bears the adventurer 
across the state line, and aflbrds him the opportunity of taking his ini- 
tiatory lessons amid the realities of prairie life. Here, most of the trading 
and emigrant companies remain encamped for several weeks, to recruit 



BORDER-PRAIRIES AND INDIANS. 15 

their animals and complete the needful arrangements, prior to undertaking 
the toilsome and dangerous journey before them. 

The scenery of this neighborhood is truly delightful. It seems indeed 
like one Nature's favored spots, where Flora presides in all her regal 
splendor, and with the fragrance of wild flowers, perfumes the breath of 
spring and lades the summer breeze with willing incense ; — now, sport- 
ing beside her fountains and revelling in her dales, — then, smihng from 
her hill-tops, or luxurating beneath her groves. 

I shall never forget the pleasing sensations produced by my first visit to 
the border-prairies. It was in the month of June, soon after my arrival at 
Westport. The day was clear and beautiful. A gentle shower the pre- 
ceding night had purified the atmosphere, and the laughing flowerets, newly 
invigorated from the nectarine draught, seemed to vie with each other in 
the exhalation of their sweetest odors. The blushing strawberry, scarce 
yet divested of its rich burden of fruit, kissed my every step. The butter- 
cup, tulip, pink, violet, and daisy, with a variety of other beauties, unknown 
to the choicest collections of civilized life, on every side captivated the eye 
and delighted the fancy. 

The ground was clothed with luxuriant herbage. The grass, where 
left uncropped by grazing herds of cattle and horses, had attained a sur- 
prising growth. The landscape brought within the scope of vision a most 
magnificent prospect. The groves, clad in their gayest ibliage and noddmg 
to the wind, ever and anon, crowned the gentle acclivities or reared their 
heads from the valleys, as if planted by the hand of art to point the way- 
farer to Elysian retreats. The gushing fountains, softly breathing their 
untaught melody, before and on either hand, at short intervals, greeted the 
ear and tempted the taste. The lark, linnet, and martin, uniting with other 
feathered songsters, poured forth heir sweetest strains in one grand con- 
cert, and made the air vocal with their warblings ; and the brown-plumed 
grouse, witless of the approach of man, till dangerously near, would here 
and there emerge wellnigh from under foot, and whiz through the air 
with almost lightning speed, leaving me half frightened at her unlooked 
for presence and sudden exit. Hither and yon, truant bands of horses and 
cattle, from the less inviting pastures of the settlements, were seen in the 
distance, cropping the choice herbage before them, or gamboUing in all the 
pride of native freedom. 

Amid such scenes I delight to w^ander, and often, at this late day, will 
my thoughts return, unbidden, to converse with them anew. There is a 
charm in the loneliness — an enchantment in the solitude — a witching 
variety in the sameness, that must ever impress the traveller, when, for 
the first time, he enters within the confines of the great western prairies. 

One thing further and I will have done with this digression. Connected 
with the foregoing, it may not be deemed amiss to say something in relation 
to the Indian tribes inhabiting the territory adjacent to this common camp- 
ing-place. The nearest native settlement is some twelve miles distant, and 
belongs to the Shawnees. This nation numbers in all fourteen or fifteen 
hundred men, women and children. Their immediate neighbors are the 
Delawares and Wyandotts, — the former claiming a population of eleven, 
hundred, and the latter, three or four hundred. Many connected with 
these tribes outstrip the nearer whites, in point of civilization and refine- 



16 PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING. 



ment, — excelling them both in honesty and morality, and all that elevates 
and ennobles the human character. Their wild habits have become in a 
great measure subdued by the restraining influences of Christianity, and 
they themselves transformed into industrious cultivators of the soil, — occu- 
pying neat mansions with smiling fields around them. 

Nor are they altogether neglectful of the means of education. The 
mission schools are generally well attended by ready pupils, in no respect 
less backward than the more favored ones of other lands. It is not rare 
even, considering the smallness of their number, to meet among them with 
persons of liberal education and accomphshments. Their mode of dress 
assimilates that of the whites, though, as yet, fashion has made compara- 
tively but small inroads. The unsophisticated eye would find prolific source 
for amusement in the uncouth appearance of their females on public occa- 
sions. Perchance a gay Indian maiden comes flaunting past, with a huge 
fur-hat awkwardly placed upon her head, — embanded by broad strips of 
figured tin, instead of ribbons, — and ears distended with large flattened 
rings of silver, reaching to her shoulders ; and here another, solely habited 
in a long wollen under-dress, obtrudes to view, and skips along in all the 
pride and pomposity of a regular city belle ! Such are sights by no means 
uncommon. 

These tribes have a regular civil government of their own, and all laws 
instituted for the general welfare are duly respected. They are, also, be- 
coming more temperate in their habits, fully convinced that ardent spirits 
have hitherto proved the greatest enemy to the red man. The churches 
of various christain denominations, established among them, are in a flour- 
ishing condition, and include with their members many whose lives of 
examplary piety adorn their professions. 

Taken as a whole, the several Indian tribes, occupying this beautiful 
and fertile section of country, are living w^itnesses to the softening and be- 
nign influences of enlightened christian effort, and furnish indubitable 
evidence of the susceptibihty of the Aborigine for civihzation and im- 
provement. 



CHAPTER II. 



Preparations for leaving.— Scenes at Camp. — Things as they appeared.— Simplic- 
ity of mountaineers.— Sleep in the open air.— Character, habits, and costume of 
mountaineers. — Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. — The commandant. — En 
route. — Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company.— Grouse. — 
Elm Grove. — A stonn. — Santa Fe traders. — Indian battle. 

After many vexatious delays and disappointments, the time was at length 
fixed for our departure, and leaving Independance on the 2d of September, 
I proceeded to join the encampment without the state line. It was nearly 
night before I reached my destination, and the camp-fires were akeady 



SCENES AT CAMP. 17 



lighted, in front of which the officiating cook was busily engaged in prepar- 
ing the evening repast. To the windward were the dusky forms of ten or 
fifteen men, — some standing, others sitting a la Turk, and others half- 
rechning or quietly extended at full length upon the ground,— watching 
the operative of the culinary department with great seeming interest. 

Enchairing myself upon a small log, I began to survey the surrounding 
objects. In the back ground stood four large Connestoga waggons, with 
ample canvass tops, and one dearborn, all tastefully drawn up in crescent 
form. To the right a small pyramid-shaped tent, with its snow-white 
covering, disclosed itself to the eye, and presented an air of comfort. To 
the left the caravan animals, securely picketed, at regular distances of some 
fifteen yards apart, occupied an area of several acres. Close at hand a 
crystal streamlet traced its course, murmuring adown the valley ; and still 
beyond, a lovely grove waved its branches in the breeze, and contributed 
its willing mite to enliven and beautify the scene. The camp-fires in 
front, formed a kind of gateway to a small enclosure, shut in as above 
described. Here were congregated the company, or at least, that portion 
of it yet arrived. Some had already spread their easily adjusted couches 
upon the ground, in readiness for the coming night, and seemed only await- 
ing supper to forget their cares and troubles in the sweet embrace of sleep. 
Every thing presented such an air of primitive simplicity not altogether 
estranged to comfort, I began to think it nowise marvellous that this 
mode of life should afford such strong attractions to those inured to it. 

Supper disposed of, the area within camp soon became tenanted by the 
devotees of slumber, — some snoring away most melodiously, and others 
conversing in an animated tone, now jovial, now grave, and at intervals, 
causing the night-air to resound with merry peals of laughter. At length 
the sleep-god began to assert his wonted supremacy, and silence in some 
measure reigned throughout camp. 

The bed of a mountaineer is an article neither complex in its nature nor 
difficult in its adjustment. A single bufliilo robe folded double and spread 
upon the ground, with a rock, or knoll, or some like substitute for a pillow, 
furnishes the sole base-work upon which the sleeper reclines, and, envel- 
oped in an additional blanket or robe, contentedly enjoys his rest. Wishing 
to initiate myself to the new mode of life before me, I was not slow to imi- 
tate the example of the promiscuous throng, and the lapse of a few moments 
found me in a fair way to pass quite pleasantly my fir.st night's repose in 
the open air. 

With the first gray of morning I arose refreshed and invigorated, nor 
even suffered the slightest ill effect from my unusual exposure to a humid 
and unwholesome night-air. The whole camp, soon after, began to disclose 
a scene of cheerfulness and animation. The cattle and horses, unloosed 
from their fastenings, and accompanied by keepers, were again permitted 
to roam at large, and in a short time were most industriously engaged in 
administering to the calls of appetite. 

A^ter breakfast I improved the opportunity to look about and scan more 
closely the appearance of my compagnons de voyage. This opened to view 
a new field for the study of men and manners. 

A mountain company generally comprises some quaint specimens of 
human nature, and, perhaps, few njore so than the one to which I here 
2 



18 CHARACTER AND COSTUME OF MOUNTAINEERS. 

introduce the reader. To particularize would exceed my limit?, nor could 
I do full justice to the subject in hand by deahng in generalities ; — how- 
ever, I yield to the latter. There are many crude originals mLxed with the 
prime ingredients of these companies. A genuine mountaineer is a 
problem hard to solve. He seems a kind of sui genus, an oddity, both in 
dress, language, and appearance, from the rest of mankind. Associated 
with nature in her most simple forms by habit and manner of life, he 
gradually learns to despise the restraints of civilization, and assimilates 
himself to the rude and unpolished character of the scenes with which he 
is most conversant. Frank and open in his manners and generous in his 
disposition, he is, at the same time, cautious and reserved. In his frankness 
he will allow no one to acquire an undue advantage of him, though in his 
generosity, he will oftentimes expend the last cent to assist a fellow in 
need. Implacable in his hatred, he is also steadfast in his friendship, and 
knows no sacrifice too great for the benefit of those he esteems. Free as 
the pure air he breathes, and proudly conscious of his own independence, 
he will neither tyrannize over others, nor submit to be trampled upon, — and 
is always prepared to meet the perils he may chance to encounter, with an 
undaunted front. Inured to hardship and deprivation, his wants are few, 
and he is the last to repine at the misfortunes which so often befall him. 
Patience becomes as it were interwoven with his very nature, and he sub- 
mits to the greatest disasters without a murmur. His powers of endurance, 
from frequent exercise, attain a strength and capacity almost incredible, — 
such as are altogether unknown to the more delicately nurtured. His is a 
trade, to become master of which requires a long and faithful apprentice- 
ship. Of this none seems more conscious than himself, and woe to tlie 
" green/iorn " who too prematurely assumes to be "journeyman." His 
ideas, his arguments, his illustrations, all partake of the unpolished sim- 
plicity of his associations ; though abounding often in the most vivid 
imagery, pointed inferences, and luminous expositions, they need a key to 
make them intelligible to the novice. 

His dress and appearance are equally singular. His skin, from 
constant exposure, assumes a hue almost as dark as that of the 
Aborigine, and his features and physical structure attain a rough and 
hardy cast. His hair, through inattention, becomes long, coarse, and 
bushy, and loosely dangles upon his shoulders. His head is surmounted 
by a low crowned wool-hat, or a rude substitute of his own manufacture. 
His clothes are of buckskin, gaily fringed at the seams with strings of the 
same material, cut and made in a fashion peculiar to himself and asso- 
ciates. The deer and butTalo furnish him the required covering for his 
feet, which he fabricates at the impulse of want. His waist is encircled 
with a belt of leather, holding encased his butcher-knife and pistols — while 
from his neck is suspended a bullet-pouch securely fastened to the belt in 
front, and beneath the right arm hangs a powder-horn transversely from his 
shoulder, behind which, upon the strap attached to it, are affixed his bullet- 
mould, ball-screw, wiper, awl, &c. With a gun-stick made of some 
hard wood, and a good rifle placed in his hands, carrying from thirty to 
thirty-five balls to the pound, the reader will have before him a correct like- 
ness of a genuine mountaineer, when fully equipped. 

This costume prevails not only in the mountains proper, but also in the 



THE COMMANDANT. 19 

less settled portions of Oregon and California. The mountaineer is his own 
manufacturer, tailor, shoemaker, and butcher; and, fully accoutred and sup- 
plied with ammunition in a good game country, he can always feed and clothe 
himself, and enjoy all the comforts his situation affords. No wonder, then, 
his proud spirit, expanding with the intuitive knowledge of noble inde- 
pendence, becomes devotedly attached to those regions and habits that per- 
mit him to stalk forth, a sovereign amid nature's lovliest works. 

Our company, however, were not all mountaineers ; some were only 
" entered apprentices," and others mere " greenhorns " — taking every thing 
into consideration, perhaps, it was quite as agreeably composed as circum- 
stances would well admit of. In glancing over the crowd, I remarked 
several countenances sinister and malign, but consented to suspend judg- 
ment till the character of each should be proven by his conduct. Hence, 
in the succeeding pages, I shall only speak of characters as I have occa- 
sion to speak of men. As a whole, the party before me presented a choice 
collection of local varieties, — here was the native of France, of Canada, of 
England, of Hudson Bay, of Connec.icut, of Pennsylvania, of New York, 
of Kentucky, of Illinois, of Missouri, and of the Rocky Mountains, all 
congregated to act in unison for a specified purpose. It m'ght well require 
the pencil of Hogarth to picture such a motley group. 

Our company had not as yet attained its full numercial strength ; a small 
division of it was some distance in advance, another behhid, and at least 
two days would be necessary to complete the arrangements prior to leaving. 
The idea of spending two days in camp, notwithstanding the beauty of its 
location, was by no means agreeable ; but as the case was beyond remedy, 
I quietly submitted, and managed to vvliile away the tedious interval as best 
I could. 

A brief acquaintance with our commandant, found him a man of small 
stature and gentlemanly deportment, though savoring somewhat of arro- 
gance and self-sufficiency, — faults, by the way, not uncommon in little 
men. He had been engaged in the Indian trade for several years past, and 
had seen many " ups and downs" in former hfe. Graduating from 
West Point in his younger days, he soon after received the commission of 
Lieutenant of Dragoons, in the U. S. Army, and served in that capacity for 
some six or eight years, on the frontier and at Forts Gibson and Leaven- 
worth. Possessed of the confidence of his men, his subsequent resignation 
was the occasion of much regret with those he had been accustomed to 
command. The private soldier loved him for his generous frankness and 
readiness to overlook minor offences, even upon the first show of peni- 
tence. 

Such unbounded popularity at length excited the jealousy of his brother 
officers, and gave birth to a combination against him, which nothing could 
appease short of his removal from the army. Aware of his ardent tem- 
perament and strong party notions as a politician, and equally violent upon 
the opposite side, they managed to inveigle him into a discussion of the 
measures and plans of the then administration of national affairs. Argu- 
ing in the excitement of feeling, he made use of an unguarded expression, 
denouncing the Chief Magistrate. This was immediately noted down, 
and charges were promptly preferred against him, for " abuse of a superior 
ojficerl'' The v\hole aliair was then referred to a Court Martial, composed 



20 COMICAL APPEARANCE OF A MEXICAN COMPANY. 



exclusively of political opponents. The evidence was so strong he had 
little to expect from their hands, and consequently threw up his commission, 
to avert the disgrace of being cashiered, since which he has been engaged 
in his present business. 

He appeared to be a man of general information, and well versed in 
science and literature. Indeed, I felt highly gratified in making an acquain- 
tance so far congenial to my own taste. 

An accession of two waggons and four men having completed our 
number, the morning of September 4th was ushered in with the din of 
preparations for an immediate start. The lading of the waggons was then 
severally overhauled and more compactly adjusted, and our arms were depos- 
ited vvith other freight until such time as circumstances should call lor them. 
All was hurry and confusion, and ofttimes the sharp tone of angry dispute 
arose above the jargon of the tumultuous throng. 

At length the word was given to advance, and in an instant the whole 
caravan was in motion ; those disconnected with the waggons, mounted 
upon horseback, led the van, followed by the teams and their attendants in 
Indian hie, as the loose cattle and horses brought up the rear. The scene 
to me portrayed a novelty quite amusing. I began to think a more comical- 
looking set could scarcely be found any where ; but the events of the day 
soon convinced me of my mistake. 

Travelliiio- leisurely along for some six or eight miles, strange objects 
were seen in the distance, which, on nearer approach, proved a company 
of Mexican traders, on their way to Independence for an equipment of goods. 
As they tiled past us, I had full scope for the exercise of my risibihties. 

If a mountaineer and a mountain company are laughable objects, a 
Mexican and a Mexican company are triply so. The first thing that excites 
attention upon meeting one of this mongrel race, is his ludicrous apology 
for pantaloons. This is generally made of deer or buffalo skin, similar to 
our present fashion, except the legs, which are left unsewed from the thigh 
downwards ; a loose pair of cotton drawers, cut and made in like manner, 
and worn beneath, imparts to his every movements a most grotesque appear- 
ance, leaving at each step of the wearer his denuded leg, with that of his 
pantaloons on one side, and drawers on the other, fluttering in the breeze ! 
The next thing that meets the gaze, is his black, slouching, broad-brimmed 
hat, (sombrero.) though little darker than the features it obscures, and far 
less so than the coarse, jet-colored hair that protrudes from beneath it, and 
falls confusedly upon his shoulders. Next, if the weather tolerates the 
habit, a coarse parti-colored blanket (char ape) envelopes tiie body, from his 
shoulders downwards, fixed to its place by an aperture in the centre through 
which the head is thrust, and securely girted at pleasure by a waist-band 
of leather. His arms, if arms he lias, consist of a rude bow and arrows 
slung to his back, or an old fusee, not unfrequently without flint, lock, or 
ammunition ; but doubly armed, and proudly, too. is he who can carry a good 
rifle with powder and lead — even if he be ignorant of their use. 

Thus appearing, these creatures, some mounted upon mules, with heavy 
spars attached to their heels, (bearing galfs an inch and a half in length, jin- 
gling in response to the rolling motions of the wearer,) ensconced in bungling 
JSpaiiish saddles, (finished with such ample leather skirts as almost hid the 
diniiiiutivc animal that bore them, and large wooden stirrups, some three 



A STORM. 21 



inches broad,) were riding at their ease ; while others, half naked, were 
trudging along on foot, driving their teams, or following the erratic mules 
of the caravan, to heap upon them the ready maledictions of their prolific 
vocabulary. Passing on, we were accosted : 

" Como lo pasa, cabelleros ?" 

The salutation was returned by a simple nod. 

" Habla la lengua Espanola, senors ?" 

A shake of the head was the only response. 

" Es esta el camino de Independenca ?" 

No reply. 

" Carraho ! Que quantos jornadas tencmos en la camino de Indepen- 
denca ?" 

Still no one answered. 

" Scha ! Maldijo tualmas ! Los Americanos esta dijabelo !" 

By this time the crowd had passed and left us no longer annoyed by its 
presence. The conclusion irresistibly forced itself upon my mind, " if 
these are true specimens of Mexicans, it is no wonder they incite both the 
pity and contempt of the rest of the world." Subsequent intercourse with 
them, however, has served to convince me that first impressions, in this 
case, instead of exceeding the reality, fell far short of the true mark ! 

Continuing our course, we saw large numbers of prairie-hens, and suc- 
ceeded in kiUing several. These birds assimilate the English grouse in 
appearance, and are of a dusky-brown color, — with short tails, and narrow- 
peaked wings, — and little less in size than the domestic fowl. Their flesh 
is tender and of superior flavor. When alarmed, they start with a cack- 
hng noise, and whiz through the air not unlike the partridge. They are 
very numerous on the frontier prairies, and extend to the Rocky Moun- 
tains, Oregon, California and New Mexico. 

About sundown we reached a small creek known as Elm Grove, and 
encamped for the night, with every indication of an approaching storm. 
Strict orders were accordingly given for securing the animals, and the 
process of "picketing" was speedily under way. This consisted in 
driving small stakes ("pickets") firmly into the ground, at proper dis- 
tances apart, to which the animals were severally tied by strong cords, — a 
plan that should find nightly practice among all travellers of the grand 
prairies, to prevent those losses which, despite the utmost precaution, will 
not unfrequently occur. 

Timber proved quite scarce in this vicinity, and it was with great difficulty 
we procured sufficient for cooking purposes. The men now began to 
prepare for the coming storm. Some disposed of themselves in, and 
others under, the waggons, making barricades to the windward ; others 
erected shantees, by means of slender sticks, planted in parallel rows five 
or six feet apart, and interwoven at the tops, so as to form an arch of 
suitable height, over which was spread a roofage of robes or blankets, — 
while others, snugly ensconced beneath the ready pitched tent, bade de- 
fiance to wind and weather. 

Being one of those selecting a place under the waggons, I retired at an 
early hour to snooze away the night ; and despite the anticipations of an 
unpleasant time, I soon lost myself in a sweet slumber, utterly uncon- 
scious of every tfiing around me. In thoughts I wandered back to the 



22 AN INDIAN BATTLE. 



home of my childhood, to converse with friends whose names and features 
fond memory has chained to my heart, while imagination roamed with 
delight amid those scenes endeared to me by earliest and most cherished 
recollections. But all the sweet pencillings of fancy were at once spoiled 
by the uncivil intrusion of a full torrent of water, that came pouring from 
the hill-side and forced its impetuous way into the valley below, — deluging 
me from head to foot in its descent. My condition, as the reader may 
well suppose, was far from being enviable. However, resolved to make 
the best of a bad thing, after wringing the water from my drenched bed- 
ding, I selected another spot and again adjusted myself to pass the dreary 
mterval till morning ; this I succeeded in doing, — how or in what man- 
ner, it is unnecessary to say. Sleep was utterly out of the question, and 
I am. quite sure I never hailed the welcome morn with greater dehght 
than on this occasion. 

Others of the company fared almost as bad as myself, and there was 
scarcely a dry bed in camp. But the little concern evinced by the moun- 
taineers for their mishap, surprised me most. They crawled from their 
beds, reeking with wet, as good humoredly as though their nocturnal bath 
had in no wise disturbed their equanimity, or impaired their comfort. 

The morning proved so disagreeable two of our party, who were accompa- 
nying us for the purpose of adventure, concluding this a kind of adventure 
they were unwilling to meet, wisely resolved to take the back track, and 
accordingly left for home. Towards night the rain ceased, and, the clouds 
having dispersed, we were again en route. Travelling on till late, we 
encamped ni the open prairie, and early the next morning resumed our 
course. Having reached a small creek, about 10 o'clock, we halted for 
breakfast, where another Santa Fe company came up. This proved a 
party of Americans, with some six or eight waggons and a large number 
of horses and mules, on their homeward journey. They had also in their 
possession an elk nearly full grown, two black-tailed deer,* an antelope 
and a white-tailed fawn. 

Through them we received intelligence of a battle recently fought be- 
tween the Pawnee and Arapaho Indians, at the lower Cimarone Springs, 
south of the Arkansas. The former had been defeated with greai 
slaughter, — losing their horses and seventy-two of their bravest war- 
riors, to increase the trophies and enliven the scalp-dances of their ene- 
mies. This action occurred directly upon the Santa Fe trail, and the dead 
yet bestrewed the prairie, as our informants passed, half devoured by 
wolves, and filling the air with noisome stench as they wasted beneath 
the inliuence of a scorching sun. 

An approving murmur ran through the crowd while listening to the re- 
cital, and all united to denounce the Pawnees as a dangerous and villan- 
ous set, and wished for their utter extermmation. 

* The black-tailed deer are larger than the common deer, and are found only m 
the snow-mountains. For a description of them the reader is referred to subsequent 
pages. 



23 



CHAPTER III. 

The Pottowatomies.— Crossu»g the Wakarousha.— Adventure at the Springs.— Tlie 
Caw chief.— Kansas river and Indians.— Pleading for wMskey.— Hickory timber. 
— Prairie tea. — Scenes at the N, Fork of Blue. — Wild honey. — Return party. — 
Mountaineers in California. — Adventure with a buffalo. — Indian atrocities. — 
Liquor and the Fur Trade.— Strict guard.— High prices. 

Continuing our course, we bore to the rght, and struck the northern 
or Platte trail, and, after travelling eight or ten miles, made camp upon a 
small creek skirted with heavy timber, called Black Jack. An early start 
the next morning brought us to the Wakarousha, a considerable tributary 
of the Kansas, where a junction was formed with our advance party. The 
territory lying upon this stream as far south as Council Grove, (a noted 
place on the Mexican trail, 144 miles west from Independence,) belongs 
to the Pottowatomies. These Indians are very wealthy and are partially 
civilized, — the most of them being tillers of the ground. Their dwellings 
are of very simple construction, — large strips of bark firmly tied to a 
frame-work of poles with small apertures to admit light, furnishing the ex- 
terior, while the interior is finished by the suspension of two or three 
blankets between the apartments, as partitions, and erecting a few scaflblds 
for bedsteads. The fire-place in warm w^eather is out of doors, but in 
the winter it occupies the centre of the building, from which the smoke — 
unaided by jamb or chimney — is left to find its way through an opening 
in the roof. Some, however, are beginning to improve in their style of 
architecture, and now and then we find a tolerably spacious and comforta- 
ble house among them. 

The Catholics have several missionaries with this tribe, and are using 
great exertions, if not to ameliorate their condition, at least, to proselyte 
them to their own' peculiar faith. The missionaries of other christian 
denominations are also devoting themselves for their benefit, and not un- 
frequently with gratifying success. 

The remainder of the day was occupied in crossing the creek — a task 
by no means easy, — its banks being so precipitous we were compelled to 
lower our waggons by means of ropes. In so doing it required the utmost 
caution to prevent them from oversetting or becoming broken in the ab- 
rupt descent. 

The night following was passed upon the opposite bank. After travel- 
ling some twelve miles the next day, we encamped a short distance to the 
right of the trail, at a place known as the Springs. Scarcely had we 
baited when two footmen appeared from an opposite direction — one of 
them leading a horse — whom a nearer advance proved to be a white man 
and an Indian. The former was immediately recognized by our engages 
as an old acquaintance, by the name of Brown, who had been their recent 
compagjion de voyage from the mountains. His story was soon told. A 
few days subsequent to his arrival in the States, a difficulty had occurred 



24 KANSAS INDIANS. 

between him and another person, who received a severe wound from a 
knife by tlie hand of Brown during the affray, when the latter was ne- 
cessitated to consult his own safety by a hurried flight. He accordingly 
bade farewell both to enemies and law, and left for the Indian country — 
travelling most of the way by night. Two weeks afterwards he arrived 
in the Kansas nation, and remained with the Indian now accompanying 
him, to await our return. 

Having listened to his story, I began to survey his strange companion. 
He was a village chief of the Kansas (Caw) tribe, and the first of his race 
I had ever seen so nearly dressed in his native costume. In person he 
was tall and stout-built, — with broad shoulders and chest, brawny arms 
and legs, and features evincing the uncontaminated blood of the Aborigi- 
ne. His hair was closely shaved to the scalp, with the exception of a 
narrow tuft centrewise from forehead to crown, so trimmed it stood on end 
hke the bristles of a warring hog; then his whole head and face were so 
lavishly bedaubed with vermilion, our experienced city belles would doubt- 
less have considered it an unpardonable waste of that useful material! 

A string of bears'-claws, tastefully arranged, encircled his neck, while 
ample folds of brass wire above the wrists and elbow^s furnished his armil- 
lary, and from his ears hung rude ornaments, — some of silver, others of 
brass or iron — cruelly distending the flexible members that bore them. A 
dirty white blanket drawn closely around the shoulders enveloped the 
body, which, with a breech-cloth and leggins, formed his sole covering. A 
bow and arrows, slung to his back by a strap passing over the left shoul- 
der and under the right arm, were his only weapons. A belt, begirting 
the waist, sustained his tobacco-pouch and butcher-knife, and completed 
his attire and armament. 

Thus habited appeared before us the Caw chief, holding in one hand the 
lead-rope of his horse, and in the other the wing of a wild turkey, with a 
a long-stemmed pipe, carved from a hard red stone, handsomely wrought and 
finely polished. Taken altogether, he presented an amusing spectacle — 
a real curiosity. 

Having shaken hands with the company and turned his horse to graze, in 
a few moments his pipe was subjected to its destined use, and, as the inhaled 
fumes merrily curved from his mouth and nostrils, he ever and anon pre- 
sented it for the indulgence of the bystanders. His knowledge of English 
was limited to the simple monosyllable " good," which he took occasion to 
pronounce at intervals as he thought proper. 

Sept. 8th. Continuing on, we encamped towards night at a small creek 
within six miles of the crossing of the Kansas river. Here a bevy of our 
chief's villagers, rigged in their rude fashion, came flocking up, apparently 
to gratify their curiosity in gazing at us, but really in expectation of some 
trifling presents, or in quest of a favorable opportunity for indulging 
their inate propensities for theft. However, they found little encourage- 
ment, as the vigilance of our guards more than equalled the cunning of our 
visitors. During their stay we were frequently solicited for donations of 
tobacco and ammunition, (as they expressed it.) in payment for passing 
through their country. This was individually demanded with all the assu- 
rance of government revenue officers, or the keepers of regular toll-bridges, 
strongly reminding one of the petty nations upon the border? of Canaan, 



PLEADING FOR WHISKEY. 

that required tribute of the Israelites passing through them to possess the 
land of their forefathers. 

Sept. 9lh. Early in the forenoon we came to the Kansas, and were em- 
ployed till nearly niirht in eflecting a ford. This proved ratlier difficult, as 
the water was deep''and the bottom sandy ; — the course, bearing directly 
across, till near midway of the river, follows the current for six or eight 
hundred yards, and then turns abruptly to the opposite shore. The Kansas, 
at the crossing, was not far from six hundred yards wide, with steep banks 
of clay and sand. The fording accomplished, we travelled some six miles, 
and encamped for the night. Our visitors yet honored us with their pres- 
ence ; some, under pretence of trading horses ; others, of bartering for 
tobacco, whiskey, cotfee, and ammunition ; but most of them for the real 
purpose of begging and stealing. 

The Caw Indians are a brancli of the Osage tribe — speaking the same 
language, and identified by the same manners and customs. They num- 
ber a population of sixteen hundred, and claim all the territory west of the 
Delaware, Shawnee, and Poltowatomie line, to the head waters of the 
Kansas. Their main village is on the left bank of the river, a few miles 
above the crossing. Their houses are built Pawnee fashion, being coni- 
form and covered with a thick coat of dirt, presenting a hole at the apex to 
emit the smoke, and another at the side to serve the double purpose of a 
door and window. The whole building describes a complete circle, in 
whose centre is placed the hearth-lire, and at the circumference the couches 
of its inmates. Its floor is the bare ground, and its ceiling the grass, brush, 
and poles which uphold the superincumbent earth forming the roof and 
sides. 

The Caws are generally a lazy and slovenly people, raising but little 
corn, and scarcely any vegetables. For a living they depend mostly upon 
the chase. Their regular hunts are in the summer, fail, and winter, at 
which time they all leave for the buffalo range, and return laden with a 
full supply of choice provisions. The robes and skins thus obtained^ 
furnish tlieir clothing and articles for traffic. 

As yet, civilization has made but small advances among them. Some, 
however, are tolerably well educated, and a Protestant mission established 
with them, is beginning its slow but successful operations for their good, — 
while two or three famihes of half-breeds, near by, occupy neat houses, and 
have splendid farms and improvements, thus affording a wholesome contrast 
to the poverty and misery of their rude neighbors. 

The distance from Independence to this place, by the mountain trail, is 
some eighty miles, over a beautiful and fertile country, which I shall here- 
after take occasion to notice more fully. Before leaving, we were further 
increased by the accession of two Canadian voyageurs — French of course. 
Our force now numbered some twenty-four — one sufficiently formidable for 
all the dangers of the route. 

Sept. lOtli. Resuming our way, we proceeded till late at night, still 
attended by our Indian friends ; (not the originals, but a " few more of the 
same sort," who kindly supplied their places, — seeking to levy fresh drafts 
upon patience and generosity.) These were more importunate for liquor than 
any preceding them — though, in fact, tlie whole nation is nowise remiss in 
their devotion to King Alcohol. One fellow, in particular, exhausted all his 



26 SCENES AT NORTH FORK OF BLUE. 

ingenuity to obtain the wherewith to " wet his whistle." He was a shriv- 
ol-faced old man, and occasioned much sport, from his supphcations in 
broken English, which ran pretty much as follows: 

" Big man, me. Chief, — Black Warrior. Me, American soldier ! Love 
Americans, heap. Big man, me ! Love whiskey, heap. White man 
good. Whiskey good. Love whiskey, me, — drink heap whiskey. No 
give me whiskey drink ? Me, Chief. Me, American. Me, Black War- 
rior. Heap big man, me ! Love Americans. Take him hand, shake. 
White man good. Whiskey good. Me love whiskey ! Love him heap ! 
No give Black Warrior whiskey ? No ? — one leetle drink ? Whiskey 
good. Me love him. Make Black Warrior strong. Big man, me, — 
Chief. American soldier. Me love American. Shake him hand. Fight 
him, bad Indian, no love white man. Kill him. White man good. Me 
love white man. Whiskey good. Me love whiskey. No give Black 
Warrior whiskey, — one leetle drink ? Me, Chief. Big man, me." Etc. 

Li this strain the old fellow continued so long as he found listeners, but 
without success, although, as I afterwards learned, two waggons were 
freighted with the noxious article ; none of it was suffered to find its way 
down the throats of our thirsty guests. 

Pursuing a westerly course, nearly parallel with the Kansas, for three 
successive days, we passed the 14th encamped at Big Vermilion, for the 
purpose of procuring a quantity of hickory for gun-sticks and bow-timber. 
Hickory is unknown to the Rocky Mountains, and this being the last place 
on the route affording it, each of our company took care to provide himself 
with an extra gun-stick. Small pieces, suitable for bows, find market 
among the mountain Indians, ranging at the price of a robe each, 
while gun-sticks command one dollar apiece, from the hunters and trap- 
pers. 

We were also careful to provide an extra quantity of ox-bows, axle-trees, 
&c., as a resource in case of accidents or breakage. These are articles 
with which every caravan should be furnished on a journey across the 
grand prairies. 

In this vicinity a species of shrub, which I had before noticed in various 
places, (designated as " red-root" by our voyageurs,) became quite abundant. 
The red-root is highly esteemed as a substitute for tea, and my own expe- 
rience attests its superiority of flavor to any article of that kind imported 
from China. In appearance it is very similar to the tea of commerce, and 
it affords at all times a most excellent beverage. It is found only upon the 
prairies between the frontiers and Big Blue, and in some portions of the 
Kocky Mountains. 

Leaving Big Vermilion, we travelled rapidly the two days subsequent, 
and arrived at the North Fork of Blue, — a large and deep stream, tributary to 
the Kansas. We were here detained till the 24th — ^the creek being im- 
passable on account of high water. 

However, the beauty of the place and variety of its landscape scenery, 
served in a great measure to alleviate the weariness of delay. The coun- 
try was most agreeably interspersed with hills, uplands, and dales — amply 
watered and variegated with woods and prairies, attired in all the gaudy 
loveliness of wild-flowers. The busy bee, afraid of the cruel persecutions 
of man, had here sought a secure retreat to pursue, unmolested, her 



ADVENTURE WITH A BUFFALO. 27 



melliferous employ, and fill the dark chambers of her oaken palaces year 
by year with honeyed stores. The air was almost vocal with the music of 
her wings, and the flowerets were enlivened by the gentle touches of her 
embrace. The odor of honey filled the breeze, which, wafting the mingled 
melody of birds and insects with the incense of flowers, o'er the smiling 
prairie till lost in space, seemed more like the breath of Eden than the 
exhalations of earth. 

As might be supposed, we were not slow in levying upon the delicious 
stores, which the industrious insects, claiming this as their dominion, had 
laid away for themselves. During our stay no less than four bee-trees 
were levelled, and every pan, kettle, pail, keg, or empty dish in the whole 
camp was filled to overflowing, and every stomach to repletion, with honey 
of almost crystalline transparency. The great abundance of deer, turkey, 
and other game in the vicinity, also contributed their share of amusement, 
and enlivened the interval of detention. 

At length, by a partial subsidence of the water, we were enabled to effect 
a crossing and renew our journey. Pursuing a course W. N. W., on the 
27th we met a small party of whites on their return from the mountains, 
and, yielding to the temptation presented by a luxuriant and well -wooded' 
valley, with a pretty streamlet, the two parties made common camp. Our 
new acquaintances were taking a large drove of horses, and several do- 
mesticated bufl'alo, with them to the States. Their horses had been mostly 
obtained from Upper California, the year previous, by a band of mountain- 
eers, under the lead of one Thompson. This band, numbering twenty-two 
in all, had made a descent upon the Mexican ranchos and captured between 
two and three thousand head of horses and mules. A corps of some sixty 
Mexican cavalry pursued and attacked them, but were defeated and pursued 
in turn, with the loss of several mules and their entire camp equipage : 
after which the adventurers were permitted to regain their mountain homes, 
without further molestation ; but, in passing the cheerless desert, betweeil 
the Sierra Nevada and Colorado, the heat, dust, and thirst were so in- 
tolerably oppressive, that full one half of their animals died. The remain- 
der, however, were brought to rendezvous, and variously disposed of, to suit 
the wants and wishes of their captors. 

The buffalo, in possession of our wayfaring friends, had been caught 
while calves, and reared by domestic cows. They appeared as tame and 
easily managed as other cattle. One of them, a two-year-old heifer, was 
rather vicious in its habits, having been spoiled, while a calf, by the too 
great familiarity of its keeper. After listening to a full exposition of its 
bad qualities, our commandant offered to bet he could handle, or even ride, 
the unruly beast at pleasure. 

•' Can you ?" said the owner. " Do it, and my best horse is yours !" 

" I take all such offers !" returned the commandant. " A horse could 
not be easier earned !" he continued, stepping towards the ill-tutored ani- 
mal. " Come, boss ! — Poor boss ! — bossy, bossy !" addressing the buffalo, 
which commenced advancing, — at first slowly, then, with a sudden bound, 
ran full tilt against the admirer, leaving him prostrate upon the ground, as 
it turned away, dancing and throwing its heels exultingly at the exploit . 

"Bless my stars !" he exclaimed, on recovering himself; "Fd no idea 
'twould serve me so !" 



28 LIQUOR AND THE FUR TRADE. 



"Ha, lia, ha !" retorted the owner. " You seem to pick upon a strange 
place for a snooze ! What in the world were you doing before that skittish 
aeast ?" 

The roar of laughter which followed, told how w^ell the joke was relished 
by the cro\\d. 

Reports from the mountains brought intelligence of recent difficulties 
between the whites and Sioux, — the latter having murdered several trap- 
pers. A battle had also been fought in the Snake country, in whicli the 
Sioux were defeated with a loss of twenty killed and wounded, — the whites 
suffered in the loss of their leader (Frapp) and four others. Another 
affair had come off, at Fort Platte, between two factions of that tribe, while 
on a drunken spree, resulting in the death of Schena-Chischille, their 
chief, and several of his party. 

The most acceptable item of intelligence was the probability of our 
reaching the buflalo range in ten days, at least, where we should find vast 
quantities of those animals. This led our voyageurs to expatiate anew 
upon the choice varieties of the feast of good things we might expect on 
that occasion. 

Bidding adieu to our transient camp-mates, we were soon a.gat.in en route. 
The day following, being unfit for travel, was devoted to overhauling and 
re-adjusting the freight of the waggons. Here, for the first time, I ascer- 
tained the fact, that a portion of the above consisted of no less than 
iweniij-four barrels of alcohol, designed for the Indian trade ! 

This announcement may occasion surprise to many, when aware that 
the laws of Congress prohibit, under severe penalties, the introduction 
of liquor among the Indians, as an article of traffic, — subjecting the of- 
fender to a heavy fine and confiscation of effects. Trading companies, 
however, find ways and means to smuggle it through, by the waggon-load, 
under the very noses of government officers, stationed along the frontiers 
to enforce the observance of laws. 

I am irresistibly led to the conclusion, tliat these gentry are wilfully neg- 
ligent of their duty; and, no doubt, there are often iveighty inducemejils 
presented to them to shut their eyes, close their ears, and avert their faces, 
to let the guilty pass unmolested. It seems almost impossible that a blind 
man, retaining the senses of smell, taste and hearing, could remain igno- 
rant of a thing so palpably plain. The alcohol is put into waggons, at 
Westport or Independence, in open daij-lighl, and taken into the territory, 
in open day liglU, where it remains a week or more awaiting the arrival of 
its owners. Two Government agents reside at Westport, while six or 
eight companies of Dragoons are stationed at Fort Leavenworth, ostensibly 
lor the purpose of protecting the Indians and suppressing this infamous 
traffic, — and yet it suffers no diminution from their vigilaiire ! What 
faithful public officers ! How prompt in the discharge of their whole 
duty ! 

These gentlemen cannot plead ignorance as an excuse. They well 
know that alcohol is one of the principal articles in Indian trade — this fact 
IS notorious — no one pretends to deny it; not even the traders ihemsekes — 
and yet, because no one takes the trouble to produce a specimen of the 
kind of freight taken, more or less, by all mountain companies, and fokce 
them to see, taste, touchy and smelly they affect ignorance! It is tlius the 



HIGH PRICES. 29 



benevolent designs of our Government are consummated by these pension- 
ers upon the pubhc treasury ! 

Had they the will so to do, it would be no difficult matter to put a stop 
to all such exportations. The departure of any one of these companies 
for the mountains, is a thing too difficult to be effected unknown and 
stealthily. It becomes public talk for days and even weeks previous. 
Scarcely anything would be easier than for those whose business it is, to 
keep on the look out, and enforce the law to its full extent upon each of- 
fender. A few examples of this kind would interpose an insuperable bar- 
rier to the further prosecution of an illicit traffic in the manner it is at 
present carried on. A few faithful public officers, and attentive to their 
duty, regardless of fear or /<2 tor, would soon accomplish an object so de- 
sirable. 

In subsequent pages of this work I shall have occasion to notice a few 
of the many evils resulting from this criminal neglect, — but at present 
forbear further remarks. 

Oar arms were now put in order for immediate use, — each individual ap- 
portioning to himself a good supply of ammunition, to be ready at all times 
in case of attack. Guards were ordered to be constantly on the alert. 
The company was divided into two parties, — one for day and the other for 
night guard, and these again were subdivided fur alternate relieves, — thus, 
one of each subdivision serving a day and a night, and the reserve the 
day and night succeeding. The day-guard consisted of only two persons, 
upon duty every other day, but the night-guard numbered ten, — two being 
on duty for two hours were then relieved by the two next in succession, 
and they by the next, and so on. 

Strict orders were also given to prevent any from leaving camp, or part- 
ing from the caravan while travelling. In fact, every thing began to as- 
sume a warlike aspect, as if we were really in danger and apprehensive 
of an immediate rencounter. 

Several boxes of clotliing, &c., were also opened for such as wished to 
purchase. But every article disposed of was sold at an enormous rate : 
tobacco bringing from one to three dollars per lb., according to quality; 
butcher-knives, from one dollar to one fifty each ; hose, one dollar per 
pair; shirts, from three to five dollars each, according to quality ; blank- 
ets, from twelve to sixteen dollars ; coats, from fifteen to forty dollars; 
coarse shoes, four dollars per pair; six-penny calicoes, fifty cts. per yd.; 
beads, one dollar per bunch, etc. These were of an indifferent quality, 
and afforded the vender some three or four liundred per cent, advance 
upon purchase-price. In fact, with regard to prices, conscience had no- 
thing to do with the matter. 



30 



CHAPTER IV. 

Country from the frontiers to Big Blue, its geological character, &c.— Novel cure for 
fever and ague.— Indian trails.— Game. — Sage rabbits.— Antelope, and their pe- 
culiarities.— Beaver cuttings.— Big Blue and its vicinity.— Dangerous country.— 
Pawnee bravery.— Night-alarrn, (Prairies on fire.) — Platte river.--- Predominant 
characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanatory of their phenome- 
non.— Something to laugh at.—" Big Jim," and the antelope. 

Sept. 26ili. We are now camped upon a small creek, nearly destitute 
of timber, within two miles of Big Blue, or the N. W. branch of the 
Kansas river. The geography of this part of the country is incorrectly 
described upon all the published maps I have yet seen. The Republican 
Fork, which is the principal branch of the Kansas, is uniformly represented 
as the most northwesterly branch of that river, forming a junction with it 
at or below the usual crossing. This is not the case. 

The two forks of Blue, from the northwest, united, form a large and 
important stream, which, according to my impression, discharges its waters 
into the Kansas itself, and not into the Republican. Of this, however, I 
am not quite positive. But be that as it may, admitting the Republican to 
be the main stream, Big Blue must be, as a matter of course, the most 
northwesterly branch of the Kansas river. 

Proceeding up the Blue, the geological character of the country under- 
goes an entire and radical change, and the traveller is introduced to a diirer- 
ent order of things from that previously observed. 

Perhaps, therefore, it is not out of place to present a general review of 
the territory thus far. 

The interval from the frontier of Missouri to Big Blue, a distance up- 
wards of two hundred miles, affords great uniformity in all its more promi- 
nent characteristics. It generally comprises beautifully undulating prai- 
ries, of a moist argillaceous soil, rich in sedimentary deposites and vege- 
table matter. It is somewhat rocky in places, but well watered by the 
almost innumerable streams that lind their way into the Kansas, l^Uitte 
and Arkansas rivers. The creeks, with but few exceptions, are heavily 
timbered with oak, hickory, walnut, maple, cottonwood, and other varieties 
found in more eastern forests. The hills too, in some parts, are mere 
than usually abinidant in springs, and covered with stately groves, as taste- 
fully arranged as if planted by the hand of man, while luxuriant grass 
and fragrant flowers usurp the place of underbrush. The prairies, hem- 
med in on every side by the woodlands skirting the water-courses, present 
to the eye proud oceans of flowery verdure, tossing their wavelets to the 
breeze and perfuming the air with the breath of spring. 

The streams are clear, witii rocky or pebbly bottoms and high, steep 
hanks — abounding in choice specimens of the finny tribes and varieties of 
the testaceous order, of the genus muscuLa. The valley of the Kansas is 



SAGE RABBITS. 31 

wide and of a deep brown vegetable mould, susceptible of a high state of 
cultivation. The whole country is well adapted to the double purpose of 
agriculture and the growth of stock. 

The prevailing rock is sandstone of various shades and compactness, 
with siliceous and fossiliferous limestone. These specifications are gene- 
rally exhibited in a detached and fragmentary form, but rarely in strata as 
disclosed upon the surface. 

Taken as a whole, the territory holds out many inducements to emi- 
grants, and, whenever brought into market, will no doubt become speedily 
and thickly populated.* 

Sept. SOlJi. We are again under headway. A French engage, who 
had been suffering for several days past from a severe attack of the fever 
and ague, experienced a sudden and novel cure. Unable to travel, quar- 
ters were prepared for him in one of the whiskey waggons, where he was 
comfortably disposed of as we continued our course. In passing a rough 
place the waggon overset, when out came the invalid head foremost, and 
out came the ivMskey barrels showering full upon him ! The suddenness 
of the fall, with the surprise and excitement of the occasion, — one, or both, 
or all, or some other cause unknown, eflected a complete cure, — for cer- 
tain it is, he did not suffer another attack of the fever and ague during 
the whole journey, and the next day was able to discharge his duties as 
well a?5 ever. 

On atriking the Big Blue, the mountain road bears a north-northwest 
course to the head of that stream, and from thence over an interval of high- 
lands to the Platte river. The distance travelled up the Blue requires some 
eight days, for heavy waggons. Continuing our way, about noon we passed 
several Indian trails, in addition to one ten or twelve or fifteen miles back. 
These consist of a number of well-beaten, parrallel foot-paths, bearing a 
northwest and southwest direction. They are formed by the passing and 
repassing of the Otoes, lowas, and Foxes, to and from their hunting 
grounds, towards the head-waters of the Kansas. 

On the 3d of October we reached the antelope range, and saw four or 
five of these animals scouring the boundless expanse, or ascending some 
favorable eminence to gaze upon us. Slight signs of buffalo also appeared, 
and everything seemed to indicate the approach to a game country. 

Parting a short distance from the trail, a large sage rabbit bounded up 
before me, — the first of his species I ever saw. This animal is nearly 
three times the size of the com.mon rabbit, and of a white color, slightly 
tinged with grey. It derives its name from being found principally in coun- 
tries abounding with absinthe or wild sage. In the regions adjacent to the 
mountains, these animals occur more frequently, — and even among the 
mountains, where their tails and ears are tipped with jetty black. Their 
fur is soft and fine, — equalling if not surpassing that of the Russia rabbit. 
Their flesh is also of a superior flavor, as I have had opportunities of 
testing. 

Towards night, three antelope appearing near the trail, our hunter made 

* By a recent treaty with the Kansas Indians, our government has become possessed 
of nearly the whole of this beautiful section. 



32 ANTELOPE OF THE PRAIRIE. 

an unsuccessful attempt to approach them, which afforded me a first ink- 
ling of the nature and character of these animals. 

The antelope of the grand prairie differs but little in size and shape 
from the common sheep, and is coated with long, brittle hair, — of a ruddy- 
brown color, except at the tail and head, where it is short and white. The 
female is hornless, except an occasional blunt corneous excrescence, some 
two or three inches long, protruding from the head. The male, however, 
is equipped with hook-shaped antlers, ebony colored, and six or eight inches 
in length, which he sheds annually in the months of November and De- 
cember. 

This is the fleetest inhabitant of the prairie. No horse can compete 
with it in speed. Quick of sight, keen of scent, and acute of ear, it 
seem.s ever on the alert at the approach of real or supposed danger, — now 
swiftly advancing towards the object of its alaripn or curiosity, — then circling 
before you with the fleetness of the storm-wind, to mount some emmence far 
away beyond reach, and gaze in security. Then, again, ere you have 
time to catch breath for admiration, it repeats its semi-gyration from an 
opposite direction, still nearer and swifter, till past, — as if indeed borne on 
the wings of lightning — and yet again surveys you in the distance. Now, 
running from point, to point it examines you upon all sides, as it cautiously 
passes round, — then, snuffing the breeze, it again calls to aid its fleetness 
of limb, and with the velocity of thought is lost to view in the vast ex- 
panse. 

Possessed of an inordinate share of inquisitiveness, it not unfrequently 
falls a victim to its own curiosity. The hunter, turbaned with a red hand- 
kerchief and half concealed behind some object, first raising, then depress- 
ing his head, then withdrawing it entirely from view, then again disclosing 
it to the curious animal, is almost certain to allure his game within gun- 
shot. 

I have been numbers killed in this manner. In the spring season they 
appear more sensitive than at any other time, and are easily lured to their 
fate. 

With the exliibition of this strange propensity, I have time and again 
been minded of its more fully developed uioral prototype in man. How 
frequently do we see persons around us who indulge their appetites and 
passions, as often for mere curiosity as fancied pleasure, — venturing near- 
er and still nearer towards the objects that command their attention and 
lure them into the vortex of ruin, till, with sure and deadly aim, the shafts 
of the tempter pierce the waning vitals of morality, and plunge the vic- 
tims headlong into a yawning abyss, where they are lost to themselves, 
to society, and to the world — lo^^t forever ! 

Here, then, is furnished for us a moral: — Beware how you indulge a 
vain curiosity that lures to evil ; — never parley with temptation. 

These animals are found from the Big Blue to the mountains — in 
Oregon, California, Santa Fe, and N. W. Texas. Their flesh is tender 
and sweet,' — quite equal to venison, though seldom fat, owing, as is sup- 
posed, to their almost incessant mobility. 

Near our night-camp I noticed fresh beaver " cuttings," some of which 
consisted of trees, sLx inches in diameter, levelled by these sagacious ani- 
mals. 



PAWNEE BRAVERY. 33 

The vicinity disclosed frequent boulders of red and dark ferruginous 
sandstone, with a soil somewhat arenose, reclining upon a changeable 
deposite of sand and gravel, succeeded by a substratum of parti-colored 
and friable sandstone. The valley of the Blue is bordered by hills of 
graceful slope, both green and beautiful. 

I here remarked for the first time the appearance of cadi, which here- 
from becomes quite common, and proves the pest of many places adjacent 
to the mountains. 

The Blue is a deep, narrow stream, with a swift current, over a bed of 
gravel and pebbles, and is fringed by groves of oak, cotton-wood, and wil- 
low. Its valley is between one and two miles in width, with a superlice of 
variable fertility, but generally consisting of good arable land. 

This section of country is considered very dangerous in the summer 
and fall months, on account of the strolling bands of Pawnees which infest 
it. The voyageur holds the latter in great dread, unless he chances to be 
accompanied by a sufficient force to bid defiance to their approach. A 
party, numerically weak and indifferently armed, meets with rough treat- 
ment at their hands while on the open prairies. Persons and property 
are rarely respected, and the unfortunate traveller is not only plundered, 
but often whipt or murdered without mercy. 

This, however, may not be said of all — it is only the young warriors, 
when beyond the restraint of their chiefs and seniors, who perpetrate such 
outrages ; though, to their praise be it said, instances of this kind are quite 
seldom, at present, compared with former years. 

The courage of these Indians is held in little repute by mountaineers ; 
and, that this opinion is not unfounded, the following incident will prove. It 
was related to me by an actor in the scene : 

A small party of whites on their cruise down the Platte with a cargo of 
furs, '• lay by " to make meat, near the forks of that stream. Buffalo be- 
ing at soniO distance from camp, our adventurers were compelled to perform 
the duties of pack-horses in conveying the proceeds of their hunting ex- 
cursions. One day, four of them left for this object, and having proceeded 
some six or eight miles, a war-party of Pawnees suddenly emerged from 
behind an eminence, directly fronting them. Alarmed at the unwelcome 
apparition, and imagining the whole country to be alive with Indians, they 
immediately ran, and were pursued towards camp. One of the number, a 
big, lazy fellow, and rather " green " withal, soon became tired, and sung 
out to his com))anions : 

" Don't let's run so fast. Blast me, if I can keep up !" 

" Come on, — come on !" cried they. " A thousand ' shaved heads ' are 
upon us, half frozen for hair !" 

"Pooh ! rn bet five dollars there aint thirty !" 

" Done ! But, who'll count the bloody varmints ?" 

"Why, I'll do it, just for my own satisfaction." So saying, he wheeled 
and advanced towards the Pawnees, as his wondering companions halted a 
little distance off", to learn the result of his fool-daring. 

Surprised at this strange movement, the enemy also came to a stand, 
affording a fine opportunity to ascertain their number, which only amounted 
to nineteen ! 

3 



34 PRAIRIES ON FIRE. 



" I've won !" exclaimed our hero. " Let's charge, and give 'em the very 
devil!" 

The word went for command, and tlie four hunters dashed boldly towards 
the terrified savages, who in turn Jled, with greater velocity than they had 
called into exercise at any time during their advance, — illustrating the 
truth of the saying, " tyrants are always cowards." Legs proved quite 
convenient articles for the Pawnee braves ! They were out of sight in a 
few minutes, and were very careful not to stop until they had left their 
pursuers far in the rear. 

A Pawnee with a defenceless enemy in his power, like some examples 
among the whites, is unrivalled in courage and daring ; but where there is 
resistance offered, and fighting to be done, he, as well as the Irishman's 
chickens, " comes up missing .'" He is always bravest when farthest 
from danger. 

We were careful to observe the strictest vigilance at night, to prevent 
the loss of horses from lurking bands of Indians. The animals of the 
caravan were uniformly picketed in compact order, and sentinels, posted at 
suitable distances, continued to pace their rounds, from dark till daylight; 
while each of the company slept by his arms, in readiness at any moment 
to repel an attack. 

Having travelled for seven successive days, we made camp late in the 
afternoon at the head of the right fork of Blue. 

During the day we had noticed a dense smoke some distance in the 
rear, but, with the wind in an opposite direction, no uneasiness was felt on 
that account. The sentries were soon at their posts, and everything was 
snugly disposed of lor the night. Those not on duty improved the oppor- 
tunity to gain respite from the fatigues of the day, and, in a brief interval, 
were snoring away at an admirable rate. 

The polar-star by its " p(nnter3 " had just told the hour of midnight, 
when these hurried words rang through the camp : 

" Lave, ho ! Lave !* Prairies on fire ! Quick — catch up ! catch 
up!" 

This startling announcement instantly brought every man to his feet; — 
and such a scene as now met the eye ! How awful, and how grand ! The 
wind, new changed and freshened, to the right and rear, was tossing the 
flames towards us, rapidly — lighting the heavens with their lurid glare, 
and transforming the darkness of night into a more than noon-day splen- 
dor! 

Here was, indeed, an " ocean of Jlame /" far as the eye could reach — 
dancing with fiery wavelets in the wind, or rolling its burning surges, in 
mad fury, eager to lick up every vestige of vegetation or semblance of 
combustible that appeared in its way ! — now shooting its glowing missiles 
far, far ahead, like meteors athwart the sky, or towering aloft from the 
weeds and tall grass, describing most hideous and fantastic forms, that, 
moving with the wind, more re:-embled a cotillion of demons among their 
native flames than aught terrestial ! — then driving whole sheets of tiie 
raging element into the withered herbage in front, like the advance scouts 

* " Lave " appears to be a corruption of the Spanish word levar, to get up, or 
arouse, as from sleep. It is in common use among mountaineers. 



PLATTE RIVER AND ITS VICINITY. 35 

of an invading army, swept onward its desolating course, leaving in its 
track naught save a blackened waste of smoking ruins ! 

Altogether, it was a sublime spectacle, a stupendous scene, grand and 
imposing beyond description, and terrible in its beauty ! Commingled with 
sensations of wonder and admiration, it tended to impress the beholder with 
feelings of painful melancholy. The broad expanse, but a few moments 
since arrayed in all the mourning grandeur of fading autumn, was now a 
naked desert, and every vestige of loveliness in an instant snatched from 
view! 

How sudden, how awful, how marked the change ! and yet, how mag- 
nificent in its career, though doleful its sequel ! 

We were speedily under way, with as much earnestness of advance as 
that of righteous Lot, in his escape from burning Sodom.* For a while 
the pursuing enemy kept even pace, and threatened to overtake us, till, 
headed by the strong wind, which meanwhile had changed its course, it 
began to slacken its speed and abate its greediness. 

About sunrise we crossed the regular Pawnee trails, (leading to and from 
their hunting grounds, which bore the appearance of being much fre- 
quented,) and at 10 o'clock, A. M., reached the Platte river, having trav- 
elled a distance of thirty miles without halting. 

The mountain road strikes the above stream at lat. 40° 41' 06" north, 
long. 99'^ 17'' 47"' west from Greenwich, some twenty miles below the 
head of Grand Island. This island is densely wooded and broad, and extends 
for fifty or sixty miles in length. The river banks are very sparsely tim- 
bered, a deficiency we had occasion to remark during the remainder of our 
journey. 

The valley of the Platte at this place is six or seven miles wide, and the 
river itself between one and two miles from bank to bank. Its waters are 
very shallow, and are scattered over their broad bed in almost innumera- 
ble channels, nearly obscured by the naked sand-bars that bechequer its 
entire course through the grand prairie. Its peculiarity in this respect 
gave birth to the name of Platte, (shallow.) which it received from the 
French, and Chartre, (surface,) from the Mexicans, — the Indians, accord- 
ing to Washington Irving, calling it Nehraska,\ a term synonymous with 
that of the French and Americans, — however, I am ignorant in reference 
to the latter. 

* The great peril of our situation, and the pressing necessity of a Imrried flight, 
may be readily inferred from the fact, that one waggon was freighted with a 
large quantity of gunpowder. None of us were quite so brave or present-minded as 
several Mexicans, in the employ of Messrs. Bent & St. Vrain, on an occasion some- 
what similar. While journeying across the grand prairies, the powder-waggon acci- 
dentally caught fire, which was noticed immediately by the Mexican attendants, who 
hurriedly clasped it upon all sides, to prevent the vehicle from being blown to pieces, 
while one of them proceeded deliberately to extinguish the flames ! Neither could 
we stand comparison w-ith a lieutenant of the Mexican army, at Santa Fe, who, on 
opening a keg of powder, made use of a red-hot irox in lieu of an auger, for that 
purpose. It is needless to say, a tremendous explosion followed. Several of the by- 
standers were killed, but the lieutenant miraculously escaped. He soon after receiv- 
ed a Captain's commission from the Commander-in-chief, in consideration of hia 
indomitable courage ! 

t The Sioux have bestowed the appellation of Duck river upon the North Fork of 
Platte. 



36 THEORY RELATIVE TO THE PRAIRIES. 

The bottom upon the south bank is between three and four miles broad, 
and of a hght, deep, and rich soil, occasionally sandy, but covered with thick 
and lusty vegetation. Back from the valley, ranges of broken sand-hills 
mark the transition to the high arid prairies in the rear, where vegetation 
becomes more dwarfish and stinted in its growth, and is intermingled with 
frequent cacti. 

These immense plains are generally clad with a short, curly grass, (the 
buffalo grass,) very fine and nutritious, and well adapted to the sustenance 
of the countless herds of buffalo and other wild animals that feed upon it. 
Their soil is generally of a thin vegetable mould, upon a substratum of 
indurated sand and gravel. 

In many places it is quite sterile, producing little other than sand-burrs 
and a specimen of thin, coarse grass, that sadly fail to conceal its forbidding 
surface ; in others, it is but little better than a desert waste of sand-hills, 
or white sun-baked clay, so hard and impervious that neither herb nor grass 
can take root to grow upon it ; and in others, it presents a light superfice, 
both rich and productive, beclad with all that can beautify and adorn a 
wilderness of verdure. 

The springs and streams of water are " few and far between," — an evil, 
however, slightly atoned for by the occasional pools formed in favoring de- 
pressions during the rainy season, which are retained in their places by the 
extreme hardness of the soil. Were it not for these it would be almost 
impossible, in many directions, to travel the vast prairies lying between 
the Arkansas and Missouri, from long. 22^ 30' west from Washington to 
the Rocky Mountains. That this section of country should ever become 
inhabited by civilized man, to any extent, except in the vicinity of large 
water-courses, is an idea too preposterous to be entertained for a single 
moment. 

As the reader is now inducted to the grand prairie as it is, it may not be 
amiss to say something relative to this phenomenon, before dismissing the 
subject in hand. 

The steppes of Asia, the pampas of South America, and the prairies of 
the great West, so far as my information extends, are possessed of one 
general and uniform character. There is something deeply mysterious 
associated with them, that puzzles the philosopher and cosmogonist to ex- 
plain. Why is it neither timber nor shrubs, as a general thing, are found 
within their confines ? Why have not the same causes operated here 
which produced the stately forests of other regions ? 

The above questions are often asked, and as often answered ; but never 
satisfactorily. 

Some respond by a reference to their frequent burnings, — others to 
some chemical defect in their soil, — others, to the disgeniality of their 
climate, — others, to their inlecund aridity, — and yet, others, to the sup- 
position that some operation of nature or art has efTected the destruction 
of quondam forests, and reduced them to their present condition. 

Each of these answers, though, doubtless, partially true in many re- 
spects, fails to solve the problem before us. 

Here we have, in many places, almost measureless extents of fertile 
soil, moist and abundantly watered, by rains, springs, and ever-flowing 
streams, with all the desiderata for the producing of trees, — and what 



S03IETHING TO LAUGH AT. S7 

withholds them ? Otlier sections of country, under less favorable circum- 
stances, are not wanting in this respect. 

Why is it ? Timber of every kind adapted to the zone and climate will 
grow as thriftily when planted here, as elsevviiere. The frontier forests of 
our Western States have been observed for years past to make slow but 
constant encroachment upon contiguous prairies, from all sides, where, as 
yet, they have a foothold ; — and why ? Partly, because their enlargement 
is not circumvented by those annual burnings that formerly devoured every 
tender shoot daring to raise its head above ground ; and, partly, through 
tiie operation of other causes, sure and gradual in their effect, which have 
planted the groves of other lands and taught tiieir branches to wave in the 
breeze. Doubtless the same causes would produce the same results, all 
over these vast regions, as elsewhere. 

But, why have they not? — why are the prairies timberless ? Simply, 
because a sufficiency of time has not yet elapsed for the operation of these 
causes, — timber has hitherto had no possible chance for generation. The 
phenomenon, if rightly viewed, will thus explain itself. Geology points to 
the time when these vast solitudes were the bed of old Ocean and the home 
of waves, — but, gradually emerging or suddenly elevated from the watery 
abyss, they now present some of the more recent formations of dry land. 

Herbage and grass, being more easily propagated than trees, — sown as 
are their seeds by the birds and scattered by tiie winds of heaven, — in a 
brief interval, beswathed the new-born earth with smiling green. Thus 
clothed with verdancy, they soon became the favorite pastures of the 
countless herds that thronged them. With game, appeared the red man 
to hunt it, and with him the yearly conflagrations that now repel the in- 
truding woodlands and contirin the unbroken sway of solitude amid her 
far extending domains. 

Here, then, we have spread before us the prairies as we find them, — the 
problem of their existence needs no further solution. 

Oct. 12th. Still continuing up the Platte by its south bank, we made 
camp at night near the head of Grand Island. During our progress we 
saw large quantities of wild geese and cranes in the river bottoms, that 
presented tempting marks for our voipgeurs. One of the latter, — a tall, 
raw-boned, half-crazed, and self-conhdenf Missouri "Ned," — good natured 
and inane, — sporting the familiar souhriquet of "Big Jim,"— wishing to 
prove the truth of the Dogberry axiom, that " some things mav be done as 
well others," started to approach a large flock of sand-hill cranes, parading 
half obscured in a plat of grass near the road side. 

The wary birds, however, caught glimpse of the approaching Nimrod, 
and flew. Still our hero advanced, crawling upon all-fours, to within sixty 
or seventy yards of their recent position, when, raising up, he espyed an 
object which his excited imagination portrayed a crane, and promptly yielded 
to it the contents of his rifle. 

Of course the obstinate creature remained in statu quo. 

Re-loading with all possible speed, he again fired ! But the second shot 
proved futile as the first. 

Determined the next should count whether or no, he advanced still 
nearer, and had raised for his third discharge, before the naked truth burst 



38 BIG JIM AND THE ANTELOPE. 



vipon his astonished vision, — he had been shooting at a bunch of dead grass ! 
Shouldering his rifle he now rejoined the caravan, and was received by the 
wags who had witnessed his exploit, as follows : 

" Ho, Jim ! I say, Jim ! Did you kill it ?" 

" Hang me, but it stood fire well,— didn't it ?" 

" Reckon you wanted a bigger charge." 

" Strange you couldn't Knock it cold at that distance !" 

" May be your gun's out of order ?" 

" Yes. I'll bet a stewed crane of it. Have you noticed the " sights " 
lately?" 

" Why, Jim. Really you've had had luck ! What, within sixty yards 
and not kill ? I can beat that, all day !" 

" Ha, ha, Jim ! Shoot him grass !" 

This rally was received, by our hero, in good part, who joined in the 
sport with as much gusto as though some one else were the victim. 

The day, however, was not permitted to pass without another display of 
the prowess of " Big Jim." 

A doe antelope, attracted by the strange appearance of the moving cara- 
van, and impelled by its innate curiosity, had ventured to a tempting prox- 
imity. Mounted upon a fleet horse and supposing he could easily ride 
down the antelope, our hero started in pursuit, 

' Intently surveying the passing scene, the agile animal permitted him to 
advance within a few yards of her before she took the alarm. Now was 
a novel race. Away went antelope and away w^nt Jim, in full chase. 
The former was soon far ahead, and stopped to gaze upon her pursuer. 

Supposing she had become tired and was about to yield, our hero came 
dashing on, impetuously, under whip and spur, fully intent upon her cap- 
ture. But, again, away went antelope, and away went Jim, whose steed, 
ambitious as its rider, and proud in its own fleetness, strained every nerve 
for the crisis. Even the antelope seemed to have found a champion to 
contest her unrivalled and universally acknowledged superiority. With 
distended mouth and protruding tongue, panting in the excitement of fear, 
and foaming in the vehemency of eflbrt, she gained but slowly ui)on the 
bounding charger, as both swept over the prairie ahnost with speed of the 
storm-wind ! 

Now, again, she stops to gaze upon her pursuer. By this time all be- 
gan to feel an interest in the result of the strange race. The word re- 
sounded: 

" Go it, Jim ! you'll beat the beater, yet !" 

Once more, the antelope shoots from before both horse and rider, like 
the swift-winged arrow twanged from a giant's bow ! 

A broad ravine intercepting her course was cleared at a bound, and left 
the flying animal far upon the other side. At a bound the steed also 
cleared the barrier, but, in striking upon the opposite bank, it plunged 
headlong upon the yielding ground, tossing its rider far away in advance, 
all safely sprawling in a sand heap. 

The luckless wight, on recovering, found his noble beast so sprained by 
the fall it could scarcely stand, and its every nerve vibrating witii frightful 
tremors. Of course here was the finale of the race, as both now re- 
fumed to the caravan, — the recent rider, on foot, leading his jaded steed, — 



BIG JIM'S THIRD ATTEMPT AS HUNTER. 39 

the ridden slowly limping behind, — presenting a marked contrast between 
the opening and closing scene. 

Tlie ill-fated horse was too much disabled for further service during the 
journey. 

As our hero joined the company, the joke-loving wags again broke 
loose : 

" Well, Jim. I say, — ahem ! did you catch the tarnal critter ?" 

" Pooh ! Why didn't you hold on, and not let her slide through your 
fingers in that way !" 

'"' Why, man ! You wasn't spry enough, when you jumped off your horse, 
or you might have caught her — just as easy !" 

" I'd like to know what you was diving arter in that sand-bank ! — the 
antelope wasn't there !" 

" Oh, Jim ! Shoot him grass, kill horse. Me look next time he run 
antelope." 

The passive recipient of these sallies had little peace from hence- 
forth, and soon began to wish he had never seen an antelope or heard of a 
crane. 



CHAPTER V. 

Deserted camp. — Big Jim's third attempt as a hunter. — Buffalo and other particu- 
lars. — Big Jim lying guard. — Butchering. — Strange selections. — Extraordinary 
eating, and excellence of buffalo meat.. — Brady's Island.— Tlie murderer's fate.— 
Substitute for wood. — A storm.— Game in camp.— Strange infatuation.— Tenacity 
of buffalo to life, and how to hunt them. — Cross S. Fork of Platte.— Big Jim's 
fourth adventure. 

Near camp was the site recently occupied by the Pawnee village, 
whose occupants had evidently deserted it with the utmost precipitancy, 
leaving lodge-skins, mortars, bowls, pans, and a variety of other articles 
strown confusedly upon all sides. They had doubtless become alarmed at 
the approach of some real or supposed enemy, and consulted their own 
safety in flight. 

Having started early the next day, our hunter soon brought in two fine 
antelope, the sight of which again raised the ambition of Big Jim, who would 
fain do deeds of equal wonder ; and he accordingly strolled off* into the 
hills with that intent. After shooting at several of the wary animals 
without success, he began to get tired of the sport, and concluding the 
'• poverty-stricken " creatures not worth the powder and lead, set his face 
for the caravan. 

Plodding leisurely along, he espied a prairie snake, and, o'erjoyed at 
the thought of counting a " coup, " gathered his rifle by the small, and 
brought it down with such force, he not only killed the snake, but broke 
his gun-stock short otf at the breech. With the pieces, one in each hand, 
he made his appearance before his comrades, who hailed him : 



40 LYING GUARD. 



'• Hallo, Jim. What's that you've killed ?" 

" Gun broke. Why, you must have overloaded it !" 

" When'll you go hunting again ? — 'case I want to go too !" 

" Poor Jim ! Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun ! Wat in de worl 
does him mean !" 

" Never mind, Jim. Don't be skeered at these fellows. It takes you 
to play the devil and break things !" 

Towards night, several buifalo bulls having made their appearance^ our 
hunter, mounting a horse, started for the chase, and in a brief interval, re- 
turned laden with a supply of meat. Camp had already been struck, and 
preparations for the new item of fare were under speedy headway. 

The beef proved miserably poor ; but when cooked, indifferent as it was, 
I imagined it the best I had ever tasted. So keen was my relish, it 
seemed impossible to get enough. Each of us devoured an enormous 
quantity for supper, — and not content with that, several forsook their beds 
during the night to renew the feast, — as though they had been actually 
starving for a month. 

The greediness of the '' greenhorns," was the prolific source of amuse- 
ment to our voyageurs, who made the night-air resound with laughter at 
the avidity with which the unsophisticated ones " walked into the attections 
of the old bull," as they expressed it. " Keep on your belts till we get 
among cows," said they, " then let out a notch or two, and take a full 
meal." 

It was equally amusing to me, and rather disgusting withal, to see the 
" old birds," as they called themselves, dispose of the only liver brought in 
camp. Instead of boiling, frying, or roasting it, they laid hold of it raw, 
and, sopping it mouthful by mouthful in gall, swallowed it with surprising 
gusto. 

This strange proceeding was at first altogether incomprehensible, but, 
ere the reader shall have followed me through all my adventures in the 
wilds of the great West, he will find me to have obtained a full knowledge 
of its several merits. 

The beef of the male bufllilo at this season of the year, is poorer than 
at any other. From April till the first of June, it attains its prime, in 
point of excellence. In July and August, these animals prosecute their 
knight-errantic campaign, and, between running, fighting and gallantry, 
find little time to graze, finally emerging from the contested field, with 
hides well gored, and scarcely fiesh enougli upon their bones to make a 
decent shadow. 

It is nowise marvellous, then, that our lavish appropriation of bull- 
meat at this time, when it is unprecedentedly tough, strong-tasted, and 
poor, should excite the mirth of our better-informed beholders. 

The night was a cold one, and claimed for it Big Jim as second guard. 
When called for " relieve," with a borrowed gun, he commenced his 
rounds, — but the cold soon drove him to the camp-fire. 

Here, weariness and the somnific effects of a generous heat, speedily 
found him stretched at full length towards the fire, snoring away at a sound 
rate, the subject of their combined influence. 



SLAUGHTER OF BUFFALO. 41 

The guard time had already expired, and his partner on duty, perceiving 
the pleasant situation of the indomitable Jim, called the next " relieve," 
and retired. 

These paced their rounds, and the fourth guard succeeded, but still our 
hero occupied the same place in which he had lain his " tour." The 
sentinels were about to take their posts, as a loud sharp voice resounded 
through camp. 

" Quit, there ! What d'ye mean ?" 

Hastening to the spot from which the cry proceeded, who should be 
seen but Big Jim, in great agony, rubbing his foot with most pitiable 
grimace : 

His slumbers had been disturbed by a falling log, of the camp-fire, which 
had planted its glowing weight full against one of his feet, — becrisping 
the sole of his shoe and severely scorching its tenant, before awakening 
him. Dreaming some one had hold of his foot, and started by a sudden 
acuteness of pain, he exclaimed as above quoted. 

The sentinels laughed at his mishap, and turning to pace their rounds, 
drawled Out : 

'^ What d'ye mean? Sure enough, what d'ye mean! Shoot grass, 
kill horse, break gun, lay guard, burn shoe, and scorch foot ; — all in two 
days and two niglits ! Poor devil, — why ye no born wid better luck!" 

With the morning, the subject of his recent adventures called forth fresh 
scintillations of waggish wit, — while the unrivalled capacity of our hero, 
as a gormandizer, gave cue to the cuts that followed : 

" Well, my head for a foot-ball, if that aint the greatest idea yet. 
What ! — roast foot, hasted with leather, — and his own at that ! Such a 
meal none but Jim would ever have thought of !" 

" Why, man ! What put you in the notion of that dish ?" 

'• Strange, indeed, if you can't find the wherewith to stuff" your devil, 
without cooking your feet! Souse, to be sure ! Here, you can take my 
hat !" 

The luckless wight had now enough to engage his attention during the 
remainder of the journey, and began to wish he had never seen a moun- 
tain company, or left his sweet home in Missouri to cross the great prairies 
with such a crowd, — but all to no purpose ; he was too late to retrace his 
steps alone. 

Oct. 13/?i. Starting at early day, we travelled till about 11 o'clock, 
A, M., and halted for breakfast. The teams were scarcely turned to graze, 
when a dense band of butFalo cows made their appearance, from the back 
prairie, wending their way towards the river. 

Expectation was on tip-toe, and all appetites doubly sharpened for an 
antici{)ated feast, as our hunter and his assistant started to intercept the 
witless animals at the river bank. 

The two placed themselves in a chosen position and awaited the heavily 
moving throng, which soon advanced to within shooting distance. The 
sharp crack of a rifle now stopped their headway, and caused them to re- 
coil a few paces, leaving one of their number struggling in death. An- 
other discharge followed, and the alTrighted herd were seen flying from 
their concealed enemy, with all the energy that innate dread of danger and 



42 EXTRAORDINARY EATING. 

death lent to their ready feet, — but not until another victim had dank the 
6od with the unsought libation of its heart's blood. 

It pained me, as I came up, to witness the noble beasts as they lay ex- 
tended upon the gore-dyed ground. But the present was' no time for 
regret ; we were to feed upon their carcases. 

The process of butchering was a new developement of that most use- 
ful science. The carcase was first turned upon the belly, and braced to a 
position by its distended legs. The operator then commenced his labors by 
gathering the long hair of the " Z?oss," and severing a piece obliquely at 
the junction of the neck and shoulders, — then parting the hide from neck 
to rump, a few passes of his ready knife laid bare the sides, — next paring 
away the loose skin and preparing a hold, with one hand he pulled the 
shoulder towards him and with the other severed it from the body ; — cut- 
ting aslant the uprights of the spina dorsi and "hump ribs," along the late- 
ral to the curve, and parting the " fleece " from the tough flesh at that point 
he deposited it upon a clean grass-spot. 

The same process being described upon the opposite side, the carcase 
was then slightly inclined, and, by aid of the leg-bone bisected at the knee- 
joint, the " hump-ribs " were parted from the vertebree ; after which, pass- 
ing his knife aside the ninth rib and around the ends at the midrifl', he laid 
hold of the dissevered side, and, with two or three well directed jerks, re- 
moved it to be laid upon his choicely assorted pile ; a few other brief minu- 
tiaB then completed the task. 

Meanwhile, divers of the company had joined the butcher, and, while 
some were greedily feeding upon liver and gall, others helped themselves 
to marrow-bones, ^'■boudins," and intesiinum mediilcc, (choice selections 
with mountaineers,) and others, laden with rich spoils, hastened their re- 
turn to commence the more agreeable task of cooking and eating. 

The remaining animal was butchered in a trice, and select portions of 
each were then placed upon a pack-horse and conveyed to the v/aggons. 

The assortment was, indeed, a splendid one. The " depouille " (fleece- 
fat) was full two inches thick upon the animal's back, and the other dainties 
were enough to charm the eyes and excite tiie voracity of an epicure. 

The camp-fires soon presented a busy and amusing spectacle. Each 
one was ornamented with delicious roasts, en appolas, on sticks planted 
aslope around it, attentively watched by the longing voyageurs, who await- 
ed the slow process of cooking. Some were seen with thin slices from the 
larder, barely heated through by the agency of a few coals, retreating from 
the admiring throng to enjoy solo their hall-cooked morsels, — others, paring 
otr bit by bit from the fresh-turned hissing roasts, while their opposite re- 
ceived the finishing operation of the fire, — and others, tossing their everted 
houdins into the flames, and in a few seconds withdrawing for the repast, 
each seizing his ample share, bemoiithed the end in quick succession to 
sever the chosen esculent, which, while yielding to the eager teeth, coursed 
miniature rivulets of oily exuberance from the extremities of the active 
orifice, bedaubing both face and chin, and leaving its delighted eater in all 
die glories of grease ! 

Every man had now become his own cook, and, not to be backward, I 
closed in with the overture. 

Seizing a frying-pan replete with tempting levies from tlie " fleece," I 



BRADY'S ISLAND. 



twice subjected it to its duty, and as often its delicious contents found am- 
ple store-house ; and even yet my longing appetite seemed loth to cry 
"hold, enough!" 

The agreeable odor exhaled from the drippings of the frying flesh, con- 
tained in the pan, invited the taste,— a temptation claiming me for its sub- 
ject. Catching up the vessel, a testing sip made way for the w^hole of its 
contents, at a single draught,— full six gills ! Strange as it may seem, I 
did not experience the least unpleasant feeling as the result of my extraor- 
dinary potation. 

The stomach never rebels against buflalo-fat. Persons, subsisting en- 
tirely upon the flesh of these animals, prefer an assortment of at least one 
third solid depouille. 

The voyageur is never more satisfied than when he has a good supply 
of buffalo-beef at his command. It is then his greasy visage bespeaks 
content, and his jocund voice and merry laugh evince the deep-felt pleasure 
and gratification that reign within. 

Talk not to him of the delicacies of civilized life,— of pies, puddings, 
soups, fricasees, roast-beef, pound-cake, and desert, — he cares for none of 
these things, and will laugh at your verdancy ! 

He knows his own preference, and will tell you your boasted excellencies 
are not to be compared with it. If you object to the sameness of his sim- 
ple fare, he will recount the several varieties of its parts, and descant 
upon each of their peculiar merits. He will illustrate the numerous and 
dissimilar modes of so preparing them, that they cannot fail to excite by 
their presence and appease by their taste the appetite of the niost fasti- 
dious. And then, in point of Ucaltli, there is nothing equal to bufiklo-meat. 
It, alone, will cure dyspepsy, prevent consumption, amend a broken consti- 
tution, put flesh upon the bones of a skeleton, and restore a dead man again 
to life /—if you will give credence to one half of the manifold virtues he 
carefully names in your hearing. 

Oct. lAtli. We were early en route, and made some twenty miles. 
Our himter, during the day, rejoined the caravan, laden with the best por- 
tions of three other fat cows, to add to the fund of life and good humor en- 
joyed by each. 

Late in the afternoon, we made camp opposite a heavily wooded island, 
called Brady's Island, in memory of a man, so named, who was murdered 
upon it by his companion some eight years ago. 

Tlie two were connected with a boat, laden with furs, on its passage to 
the States. They had frequently quarrelled, and were generally upon 
otherwise bad terms. On the day of the fatal occurrence, they were left 
alone in camp by the rest of the boat's crew, who went in quest of 
bufl[alo. At their return, Brady was found lying in his blood,— kill- 
ed, as his comoanion affirmed, by the accidental discharge of his own 
rifle. 

The tale was received quite doubtingly, and its listeners were only de- 
terred from the execution of summary vengeance upon the murderer by 
thought of the bare possibility of its truth. 

ThelDody of the unfortunate man was buried near the spot, — but being 
subsequently disinterred by the wolves, his bones were left to bleach and 



44 THE MURDERER'S FATE. 

moulder in the sun and rains of heaven. Some of them were lying scat- 
tered near by, upon our arrival, which were collected by the sympathizing 
voyage urs, who bestowed upon them those rites of sepulture they had 
been so long and cruelly denied. 

The reader will naturally enquire, what became of the supposed mur- 
derer ? His was a fearful retribution, — a mournful tale of suffering, worse 
than death, till death itself in pity came to his relief. 

Soon after the melancholy incident previously related, the shallowness 
of the Platte river compelled the company to abandon their boat, and make 
the best of their way to the States on foot, — a distance of two hundred and 
fifty miles to the nearest inhabitants, either Indian or white. 

Their provisions running short, and no game at hand, a separation was 
had about midway of their journey, and each one hurried to its termination 
as rapidly as possible. The murderer, being but an indiflerent walker, was 
soon left far in the rear. 

His comrades, on their arrival at the Pawnee village, sent two Indians 
to bring him in, and continued their course to Council Bluffs. 

Nothing further was known of the subject of our sketch, till some eight 
or nine days subsequent, when a small party of engages in the employ of 
the American Fur Company, on passing the Pawnee village, were met by 
the head-chief, who requested them to visit a white man lying sick at his 
lodge. 

They went. He was the murderer, at the point of death. His story 
was briefly told. 

The night succeeding the departure of his companions, in an attempt to 
light a fire with his pistol, to disperse by its smoke the myriads of mus- 
quetoes that swarmed around and nearly devoured him, an unknown charge 
it contained was lodged in his thigh-bone — severing it to a thousand pieces. 
In this condition he lay helpless. To walk was impossible ; — he could 
scarcely move, far less dress his wounds in a proper manner. He man- 
aged, however, to aifix a piece of red flannel to an upright stick, to tell the 
ti-ansient traveller the site of his supposed last resting place, then, crawl- 
ing with difficulty to the river-side, he remained six days and nights — tor- 
mented by musquitoes, reduced by pain, and wasted by continued hunger, 
till scarcely the wreck of manhood was left him. 

It was then he longed for death to terminate his agony. Still he could 
not endure the thoughts of dying. 

Early in the morning of the seventh day, his ear caught the indistinct 
murmur of sounds. Were they human voices ? — No, he must be dream- 
ing. He hears them again. It is no dream ; — they are human voices ! 
' They approach. Is it to his assistance ? 

' O'erjoyed he beholds two Pawnees bending over him, with compassion 
pictured expressively upon their countenances. They gave him meat, — 
they dressed his wounds, and did everything in their power to alleviate his 
misery. 

I Oh, say not there is no pity in the bosom of the red man ! 
' Having constructed a rude litter of poles, and using their own robes for 
his bed, they carefully conveyed him upon their shoulders to the place he 
yet occupied. 

But the care of sympathizing attendants failed to atone for previous neg 



GAI^IE IN CA:\IP. 45 

lect. Mortification had already taken place, and death claimed him for a 
victim. He expired in the presence of those whom the good chief had 
called to his bed-side ; — but, before his tongue refused to speak, he con- 
fessed the murder of Brady, and owned the justice of his punishment in 
all the untold miseries he had been compelled to endure. 
" Vengeance is mine^ and I will repay it, saith the Lord!" 

On resuming our journey the road gradually bore towards the hills upon 
the left, (which presented an outline of conical eminences, rising, as the 
traveller advances, to an elevation of four or five hundred feet,) and finally 
crossed them at the point of an angle formed near the confluence of tlie 
two great forks of the Platte, upon the east side ; from thence, descending 
to the opposite bottom, we reached a timberless spring and made camp 
soon after nightfall. 

The lack of wood at this place was readily met by the great abun- 
dance of bois de vache, (buflalo-chips,) the common substitute of the 
prairies ; and, in a brief interval, the camp-fires were merrily blazing, with 
all the appliances of cookery about them. 

Early the next morning, our hunter rejoined the caravan, bringing with 
hiui the spoils of two more cows. He had passed the night upon the 
prairie alone, without coat or blanket, or anything to screen him from tiie 
bleak autumn winds, that swept over the naked plains, dancing their dirges 
to the dying year. 

The sky gave evidence of an approaching storm, and we hastily started 
in quest of some more sheltered spot in which to weather it. A few miles 
brought us to the river, and, availing ourselves of a small supply of drift 
wood, we made halt. 

The combustibles the vicinity afforded were soon collected, and the camp- 
fires imparted their generous warmth despite the falling rain. Nor were 
they permitted to remain long unembellished by the numerous kettles, 
frying-pans, and roasting-sticks at command. 

I here enjoyed full test of some of the many varieties of mountain fare 
hitherto so freely enlarged upon by our voyageurs, — which, as they now 
asserted, would make a man " shed rain like an otter, and stand cold like a 
polar bear !" — quaintly adding, " if he could always lice upon such ' didms,' 
he need neocr dieT^ 

I must in justice confess that the real merits of our present " bill of 
fare," by far exceeded my previous expectations. 

The rain continued till near night ; but little did we care. The choicest 
the prairie afforded, was now before us, and, rain or shine, we were con- 
tented. Sound in health and buoyant in spirits, we fully enjoyed ourselves, 
despite the frowning elements. 

A little before sundown, the rain subsided into a thick fog, and an old 
bull, in the consequent obscurity, straggled close upon camp. 

The abrupt passage of a rifle-ball through his lights, was his first feeling 
sense of the presence of danger. The affrighted customer then retreated 
a few steps, and, falling, surrendered himself to the resistless power of 
cold lead. 

A large band of cows also made their appearance, in the same manner, 
and our hunter struck out to waylay them. 



46 STRANGE INFATUATION. 

Permitting the unwitting animals to advance within good shooting dis- 
tance, a discharge from his rifle brought down one of their number. The 
bund then recoiled slightly; but, snuffing the odor of blood, they returned 
immediately to their prostrate companion. 

This was enough, — a charm now riveted them to the spot, — a strange 
infatuation had seized upon them. 1'hey began by spurning the ground 
with their feet, — then, bellowing, gored the fallen beast, as if forcing her to 
rise, — then, rolling upon the grass, in demonstrative sympathy, — and, now 
that she had ceased to struggle and lay yet quivering in death, they licked 
her bleeding wounds and seemed to exercise a kind of mournful rivalry 
in the bestowment of tlieir testimonials of alTection. 

She is encircled by her companions. An eflbrt to approach from without 
is resisted by those within. A light ensues, and aU becomes confusion. 
Each turns against her neighbor, and continues the strife till the space 
around the carcase is again vacated ; whereupon a general rush once more 
centers to the spot, and all unite to react the former scene. 

In this manner they persisted in their frenzied devotion to the fallen one, 
as if determined to restore her to life and action, or perish by her side. 

Meanwhile the hunter's rifle had been busily employed. But they heeded 
it not. Four more of their number lay gasping in death upon the en- 
sanguined ground ; and still they seemed no more disposed to leave 
the scene of slaughter than at first. Sixteen successive shots were fired, 
each bearing blood, wounds and death, and yet the spell was no nearer 
broken. 

It was a spectacle vested with melancholy animation. The pawing, 
goring, bellowing, licking of wounds, and struggles of rival affection, re- 
mained the same, with no visible abatement of their vehemency. 

The sun had set, and the sable hue of twilight empalled the blood-dank 
slaughter-ground. The death-dealing rifle had ceased its sharp crack, and 
the gore-scenting wolves, half starved and eager for their supposed prey, 
came flocking upon every side, mingling their wobegone howlings with 
the piteous moans of the spell-bound herd, and the loud whisthngs of the 
prairie winds, — and yet, they lingered. 

At last the impatient hunter advanced. More affrighted at the presence 
of man than the companionship of death, they now gave way, and reluc- 
tantly left the field to him, who had so unfeelingly occasioned their burthen 
of mourning and woe ; — still, ever and anon stopping to gaze, as if longing 
to return and die with those they loved ! 

All hands were now summoned to aid at the work of butchery ; but the 
fast-enshrouding darkness soon drove us back to camp, leaving the task 
not half completed. 

Our withdrawal from the premises was the signal for possession by the 
eager wolves, whose ceaseless yelpings the livelong night, made the gloomy 
interval doubly dismal. By morning, nothing but bones and thick pieces 
of skin marked the scene of their recent reveilings ! 

Thus early, I had learned, that to approach buffalo with success, the hunter 
should carefully maintain the leeward, such being their remarkable sensi- 
tiveness, they will sooner flee from the smell than the sight of a man. 
Their sense of smell, with the wind, in fact, far exceeds their scope of 



BIG JIM'S FOURTH ADVENTURE. 47 

vision. It is so extremely acute, that even the fresh footsteps of a man. 
crossing their path, are to them a sure cause of alarm and flight. 

Of all the diversities of game indigenous to the mountains and prairies 
of the great West, with the exception, perhaps, of the grizzly bear, no 
animal is more tenacious of life than the buffalo. To shoot it in the head, 
is an inane effort. No rifle can project a ball with sufficient force to per- 
forate the thick hair and hide to its brain, through the double scull-bone 
that protects it. A paunch shot is equally vain. The only sure points lor 
the marksman are, the heart, lights, Iddneys, or vertebrae ; and even then 
the unyielding victim not unfrequently escapes. 

Buffalo, wounded in the skirts of the lights, have been known to live for 
several days afterwards. 1 have witnessed their escape, even after the re- 
ception of fffteen bullet-wonnds, and most of them at such points as would 
have proved fatal to almost any other anim.al. 

In the summer of '43, I myself killed one of them, that had been shot 
through the pussy surface at the hutt of the heart, apparently four or ffve 
days previous, which doubtless would have recovered had it remained un- 
molested. 

A gun, suitable for killing this kind of game, should never carry to ex- 
ceed forty bal's to the pound — a lesser bore would be almost entirely use- 
less. The distance generally required for a shot, the smallness of the 
bah, its liability to variation irom the wind, with its failure to " hold up " 
and retain its torce, contribute to render the use of such a piece little else 
than idle waste of ammunition. 

Oct. 11th. The sun arose bright and clear, and with its first appearance 
the caravan was in motion. Proceeding up the South Fork some ten miles 
we halted for breakfast, and made arrangements for fording the stream. 

Near us lay the carcase of one of the cows wounded on the previous 
evening, and as yet scarcely dead. She had travelled thus far after being 
shot in the lights. 

Our crossing was effected with little difficulty, but occupied till late in 
the afternoon. The river was fuff a mile wide and very shallow, with a 
soft sandy bed, requiring the strength of all the united teams to each wag- 
gon. Tlie day proved cold, and the water was like an application of ice to 
the naked skin. Our teamsters, who were compelled to cross and recross, 
some dozen times, felt in not the best humor, and were better pleased than 
any one else at the termination of their unpleasant task. 

Having safely gained the opj)osite bank, we travelled up the river ffve 
or six miles, and halted for the night. 

During our course the bottoms upon either side presented one dense, 
interminable band of buffalo, far as the eye could reach. The whole prairie 
pictured a living mass, moved by impulsive dread, as the breeze heralded 
our approach, and the countless multitude made way before and on either 
hand. 

Ever and anon, an old bull would linger, as if to intimidate, and not un- 
frequently venture within gun-shot. One fellow, in particular, passed side- 
long, for a mile or more, stopping at intervals to gaze upon us, shaking his 
shaggy head in defiance, as much as to say, " you dare not come near !" 

Big Jim saw this, and his pride was wounded. The bull, in his opinion, 



48 RARE POLITENESS. 

had challenged the whole party, and there was no one stout-hearted enough 
to accept it. 

Here was a chance for a full display of his bravery and skill. Ever 
since we had reached the buffalo range, his proud spirit had yearned to be- 
come the death of some one of these terrible monsters, that he might relate 
the deed of perilous exploit to wondering posterity, and incite the rising 
generation to emulate his noble achievement. 

But, alas, for the fadeless laurels he might otherwise have won, in an 
evil hour his rifle had been sacrificed for the extermination of a huge, 
venomous serpent. He did the deed at one fell blow ; — brave, but unfortu- 
nate ! Yet he had one consolation amid his troubles, — no victory is ever 
gained without some loss to the conquerors. 

Still, he needed his gun, for without it how was he to avenge the foul in- 
sult the savage beast of the prairie was even now hurhng in the very face of 
the shrinking crowd ? Something must be done. 

With these cogitations, an idea struck him, — he could borrow a rifle ; 
so, advancing to a comrade, he exclaimed : 

" Do leud me your rifle, one minute I" 

" Yes, Jim," was the ready reply. " But see you don't break it over the 
first paltry little snake you come across !" 

" That's a lie. 'Twas a big rattle-snake I broke mine over. 'Twasn't 
a paltry little snake !" 

Thus, vindicating his assaulted reputation, he took the gun and hastened 
to prostrate the impudent barbarian inviting attack. 

Jim looked at the bull, and the bull looked at Jim, — shaking his head, and 
throwing the loose sand from beneath him high into the air with his feet, 
and goring the ground with his horns of burnished ebony. If the creature 
had looked terrible before, he now looked fourfold more so, in Jim's estima- 
tion. 

Thinking caution the parent of safety, our hero was unwilling to venture 
further, and so, prostrating himself at full length behind a clustre of 
absinthe, (sage,) he planted his battery, having his high-crowned hat for a 
rest, and blazed away at the bull's head. 

The hardened wretch stood the shot without flinching. Looking for a 
moment at the spot from whence the strange salute had proceeded, and 
again shaking his head and snorting with scorn, he wheeled and slowly 
trotted off. 

Eager to get a secona trial to finish the work so nobly begun, our hero 
commenced pursuit. Seeing him advancing, the bull thought it time to 
show his heels, and in a few minutes was lost in the distance. 

The courageous Nimrod now, for the first time, bethought him of his 
hat, which, in the ardor of his bold charge, he had left at the spot chosen 
as his stand to Imrl death and destruction to the naughty bull. Ha 
hastened to regain it'-but no hat could be found ;— the winds had borne it 
far away over the prairie, to be worne out in search of a wearer, and tho 
unlucky bravo, hatless, rejoined the caravan. 

Here' the truth at once flashed upon the minds of the waggish clique, 
that had hitherto proved his sore annoyance, and they began anew : 

" Now that beats me, clear out ! How came you to give the bull your 
hat and leave yourself bare-headed ? That's another wrinkle !" 



SCENERY AT ASH CREEK. 49 

said Jim. " Tlie wind took it away ;— and it's 
none of your business neither. I paid for it .'" 

" True. But what did the wind want with your hat ? Sure, if it 
needed a foot-ball, to toss over the prairies, it would have taken your head, 
the lightest of the two !" 

" You're a fool !" retorted Jim, indignantly. 

" There, now. That's the time you cotcht it, my boy. Why, fellow, 
Mr. Jeems took off his hat, out of ^p^re politeness, — to win the good opinion 
of the bull. He were right. Didn't you see how the gentleman-cow 
bowed and scraped in turn. Why, he throw'd the dirt clean over his hack, 
not to be outdone in good breeding ! Ah, but the pesky wind ! While 
Mr. Jeems were showing his brotten up, what had it to do, but to snatch 
his hat and run off with it I Mr. Jeems are no fool ! and the feller what 
says beam, — (I want you all to understand me; Mr. Jeems have been 
most shamefully abused and misused, and I can whip the chaps what's 
done it — provided they'll let me ; — I say, then, I want you all to understand 
me !) Mr. Jeems are no fool, and the man what says he am — is, — (I can't 
think of words bad enough,) — is — is, as near the mark as though he'd 
drove centre P^ 

" Aye. Jim's right. You are all a pack of dough-heads to make fun 
of him in the way you do. Suppose you'd be struck comical! Then 
what'd ye think of yourselves !" 

" Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, 
and go bare-headed ! Wat him mean ?" 

" I say, Jim. When 're going a hunting again ? — 'case I want to go 
'long too!" 



CHAPTER VI. 

Ash Creek. — Pawnee and Sioux batde-ground. — Bread-root. — The Eagle's Nest. — 
Mad wolf, — Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. — Mad bull. — 
Making and curing meat. — Big Jim still unfortunate. — Johnson's creek. — McFar- 
lan's Castle. — Deceptiveness of distances. — Express from the Fort. — Brave Bear. — 
Bull Tail. — Talk with the Indians. — Speech of Marto-cogershne. — Reply. — Tah- 
tungah-sana's address. 

Oct I8th. Bearing to the right, over a high undulating prairie, we 
struck the North Fork of the Platte, after a drive of about twelve miles, 
and continuing up its left bank a short distance, camped for the night at 
the mouth of Ash Creek. 

The stream at this place is a broad bed of sand, entirely dry, except in 
the spring months. Higher up, however, it aifords a generous supply of 
pure running water, sustained by the numerous feeders that force their 
way into it, from the high grounds dividing the two rivers. 

The valley is of variable width, and well timbered with beautiful ash 
groves, from which the cieek derives its name. Here are also found seve- 
ral varieties of wild fruit indigenous to the mountains. As a whole, i\ 
A 



50 BREAD'ROOT.-THE EAGLE'S NEST 

presents to the eye a pretty flower-garden, walled in by huge piles of 
argillaceous rock, and watered by murmuring streamlets whose banks are 
ornamented with shade trees and shubbery. 

Near camp had been the scene of a fierce and bloody battle between the 
Pawnees and Sioux, in the winter of 1835. The affi-ay commenced early 
in the morning, and continued till near night. A trader, who was present 
with the Sioux, on the occasion, describes it as having been remarkably 
close. Every inch of ground was disputed — now the Pawnees advancing 
upon the retreating Sioux ; and now the Sioux, while the Pawnees gave 
way ; but, returning to the charge with redoubled fury, the former once 
more recoiled. The arrows flew in full showers, — the bullets whistled the 
death-song of many a warrior, — the yells of combating savages filled the 
air, and drowned the lesser din of arms. 

At length arrows and balls were exhausted upon both sides, — but still 
the battle raged fiercer than before. 

War-club, tomahawk and butcher-knife were bandied with terrific force, 
as the hostile parties engaged hand to hand, and the clash of resounding 
blows, commingling with the clamor of unearthly voices which rent the 
very heavens, seemed more to prefigure the contest of fiends than aught 
else. 

Finally the Pawnees abandoned the field to their victorious enemies, 
leaving sixty of their warriors upon the ensanguined battle-ground. But 
the Sioux had paid dearly for their advantage ; — forty-five of their bravest 
men lay mingled with the slain. The defeated party were pursued only a 
short distance, and then permitted to return without further molestation to 
their village, at the Forks of the Platte. 

This disaster so completely disheartened the Pawness, they immediately 
abandoned their station and moved down the river some four hundred 
miles, — nor have they again ventured so high up, unless in strong war- 
parties. 

About the same time the village on Republican fork of Kansas was also 
abandoned, and its inhabitants united with the Loups. 

The evidences of this cruel death-harvest were yet scattered over the 
prairie, whose bones and sculls looked sad, indeed. One of the latter was 
noticed, near camp, with a huge wasp's nest occupying the vacuum once 
filled by the subtle organs of intellect. Strange tenant, truly, of a human 
scull, — but, perhaps, not an unfit antitype of the fierce passions that 
whilom claimed it as their dwelling place. 

A specimen of the bread-root, (psoralea esculenta,) was procured from 
the creek-bank by one of the voyageurs. This is very common in the vicinity 
of the mountains, and attains a size from twenty to thirty inches in circum- 
ference. It is taprooted, and generally prefers the rich sandy soil of bot- 
toms and ravines, — not unfrequently penetrating to the depth of five or six 
feet. In shape, it is much like the common beet. Its exterior is covered 
with a thick ligument of tough fibres, curiously interwoven, enveloping a 
white pulpy snbstance, which is very sweet and pleasantly tasted. 

The day following we proceeded some twenty miles, and camped at a 
place called the Eagle's Nest. 



WOLVES,— THEIR SAGACITY. 51 

A few scattering trees at the right of the bottom, here mark the transi- 
tion to the high prairie. One of these was the war-eagle's eyry, upon 
which she rears her annual brood, and teaches it to soar far away, or levy 
tribute from the surrounding vs ilderness. 

The proud bird of Jove was yet sailing aloft, in silent majesty, almost lost 
to vision in the long space of intervening blue that told the grandeur of her 
flight ; and, tinged with the purple and gold of the setting sun, she seemed 
looking down with a jealous eye upon the unwonted invaders of her 
earthly home. A few light clouds, garnished with day's departing glory, 
danced athwart the western sky, as the full moon arose, hastening to re- 
enter her nightly pathway, and course amid the array of glittering worlds, 
and smile upon the wide realms of Solitude ; — while countless herds of 
grazing buffalo covered the prairies on either side of the broad and silent 
river ; and naught met the listening ear, save the dolesome hooting of the 
midnight owl, as she resumed her nocturnal ditty, to enhance the deep 
melancholy of loneliness ; or the shrill whistlings of the prairie-winds, as 
they sported in mirth and chanted their requiems to the dying year ; or the 
terrific bellowings of the hoarse-toned bison, the softening cadence of whose 
voices sounded trebly mournful as it swept far along and became lost in 
the distance ; or yet, the dismal bowlings of the halt-starved wolves, that 
gathered by scores upon every hill-top and renewed, in more piteous accents, 
their ceaseless concert ; — all these united to invest the scene, so magnifi- 
cent in itself, with a savage wildness, at once incitive of terror and admi- 
ration. 

In our progress during the day I remarked, at frequent intervals, bare 
places coated with saUne efflorescences, and occasional plats of fine bluish 
grass, (herba salee,) — appearances quite common from this onward. 

Our night slumbers were disturbed by the quick discharge of firearms, 
which instantly brought every man to his feet, rifle in hand. The cause 
of this alarm was the appearance of a mad wolf among the caravan ani- 
mals, and several shots were fired before the guard could despatch him. 
He proved one of the largest of his species, and looked fearful as his 
blood-red eyeballs and foaming mouth were exposed by the camp-fire. 

In the morning it was ascertained he had bitten nine head of horses and 
cattle. 

The buffalo range afTords every variety of wolves, common to the moun- 
tains and regions still further west. Of these there are five distinct classi- 
fications, viz : The big white, or buffalo wolf; the shaggy brown; the 
black ; the gray, or prairie wolf ; and the cayeute, (wa-chunka-monet,) or 
medicine-wolf of the Indians. 

The white and brown wolves are the most numerous, and follow the 
buffalo in bands of hundreds, subsisting upon the carcases of such as die 
of themselves or are slaughtered as their necessities demand. 

These wolves behave with great sagacity in their predatory operations, 
and appear to exercise a perfect understanding and concert of action with 
each other on such occasions. First, stationing themselves by files at 
given distances along the course their intended victim is expected to run, 
two or more of them enter the herd of unconscious buffalo, and, singling 



52 A MAD BULL. 



out the fattest one, drive it to the track at which their companions await 
to take part in the grand race. This done, the victim is made to run 
the gauntlet between two rows of wolves. As it advances, others join 
their fresh numbers to the chase, till at length, tired down and exhausted 
in strength, the ill-iated animal falls ready prey to their greediness. The 
poor creature is lirst hamstrung to prevent its escape, and then literally 
devoured alive ! 

The black wolf is seldom met with in these parts. It nearly equals the 
white and brown in size, and is fully as large as the common cur-dog. 

The prairie wolf is not more than half the size of the above mentioned, 
and much less ferocious. Its color is of a dark gray, and its fur quite 
soft and fine. 

The cayeute or medicine-wolf compnres with the common feist, and is 
of a grayish color, much like that of the wild rabbit of the vStates. Its 
fur is tine and thick, and might be turned to good account for the manu- 
facture of caps, muffs, &c. 

The Indians cherish many superstitious notions in regard to this ani- 
mal, and hold it in great veneration. They consider it as the messenger 
employed by the Great Spirit, on special occasions, to herald the approach 
of events interesting to the welfare of his red children, and for that reason 
they are never known to harm or molest it. 

Just at daylight, a large band of buflalo crossed the river nearly oppo- 
site to camp. It was headed by an old bull, that led the way, grunting 
and bellowing as he advanced, as if in mock personation of the bugleman of 
a corps of cavalry. Some three or four hundred cows and calves fol- 
lowed, side by side, with marked and regular tread, like platoons of infantry 
marching in set step to music, presenting a truly comical exhibition. 

A xoyageur seized his rifle and saluted with its contents the music- 
master and captain-general of the advancing army, as he was about to ascend 
the river bank. In an instant the whole detachment to " right about 
face," and retreat precipitately to the rearward shore, with no other 
music than the clatter of hoofs and the splashing of water, or order than 
the confused rivalry for speedy escape from the unexpected presence of 
danger. 

Oct. 20th. Resuming our course, during the forenoon, the strange de- 
portment of a buffalo bull near the trail arrested attention. 

He was running in a circle, at the height of his speed, and narrowing 
its sj)here at each gyration. Several of us rode out to him, — but he still, 
continued, (with frothing mouth and protruding tongue, swollen to the 
utmost distention of his jaws, rolling eye-balls, like globes of clotted gore; 
and bellowing for pain,) following the fast-decreasing limits of his strange 
course, regardless of our presence. 

He soon commenced whirling round and round, with faltering, half 
stumbling steps, and finally fell prostrate before us, apparently in the last 
paroxysm of mortal agony. In vain he struggled to rise, while his tongue 
bled irom between his jaws, chafed in fruitless effort to close them, and hi& 
head, keeping time with the convulsive throes of his fast-waning strength, 
tore up the prairie-sod and lashed the ground in tlie mad fury of effort. 



BIG JIM STILL UNFORTUNATE. 53 

The spectacle was one of the most striking exhibitions of excruciating 
pain 1 ever witnessed. Even the rough mountaineers were excited to 
pity, and gladly alleviated his miseries by hastening his end. A friendly 
bullet put a period to his sufferings, and placed him far beyond the reach 
of summer's heat and winter's cold, mad wolves and all the inexpressible 
horrors of hydrophobia. 

At our noon encampment we commenced the process of '' making 
meat," preparatory to passing a long distance devoid of game ; and, as the 
reader may be anxious to know w^hat kind of an operation this is, I will 
explain. It consists simply in cutting into thin slices the boneless parts 
of buffalo, or other meat, and drying them in the wind or sun. Meat thus 
cured may be preserved for years without salt. Ropes of raw hide were 
stretched around the waggons, upon which the results of our labor were 
left to the finishing effects of the wind and sun as we proceeded, — thus 
making an important saving in the item of time. 

It is astonishing how long a time fresh meat may be kept without injury, 
upon the grand prairies, in dry weather, when it receives the free access 
of air. Some of that killed on our first arrival among buffalo was yet 
hanging to the waggons, as sweet and sound as ever. 1 have known it to 
be preserved, in this way, for ten or twelve days in the heart of summer. 
Meat, packed in snow, while in a frozen state, may be retained fresh for 
months without injury. I have known an instance of its being thus kept 
from January till June. The air is so pure and dry, it requires but little 
effort to preserve meat, for any requisite length of time, almost at any 
season of the year. 

Our hunter, having proceeded in advance of the waggons during the 
afternoon, was overtaken about sundown at a place selected for night- 
camp, which he had ornamented with the carcases of three cows, — and 
there again, was soon witnessed another display of rare foasting, such as 
mountaineers alone know how to appreciate and enjoy. 

The night proved cold and uncomfortable, and the bright-glowing camp 
'fires presented most captivating inducements to the shivering sentinels, as 
they paced their dreary rounds, to step within its cheering influence. Big 
Jim, who was on the third " relieve," thought it too bad he should be com- 
pelled to suffer so much from cold, while a nice warm fire was permitted 
to waste its kind heat upon the bleak air of night, without so much as one 
to enjoy its beneficence. 

No, it would not do. " Why mayn't I just as well stand guard at the 
'fire, as elsewhere ? I can, I'm sure. I'll stand this time, and not lay as I 
did before, and then there'll be no danger of falling asleep and burning 
one's self; nor'll they have the chance to twit me about lying guard and 
burning shins. I'll head 'em this time, and they wont know the differ- 
ence." 

So saying, he approached the fire, and, giving it a kick, extended his 
hands towards its blaze, — ever and anon rubbing them together and then 
again spreading them to receive its pleasing warmth ; then turning his 
back to partake alike of its comforting influences and obviate the jealousy 
that might otherwise be engendered between front and rear. 



64 JOHNSON'S CREEK. 

Now, he stands attent, — he hears somethinof move. He stretches himself 
to his lull height, on tip-toe, and gazes in the black envelope of surround- 
ing night, made doubly obscure in contrast with the refulgence of the 
camp-lire. 

" How dark it has grown !" said Jim. " What can it be ? Wonder if 
it's Indians. Pooh ! it's nothing but the wind. Bless me, I can't see the 
use of a poor devil's standing guard on such a dark night as this ! (step- 
ping backward still nearer the fire,) he can't see nothing, if he does. 
Feugh, — what is it smells so ? (turning round.) Good gracious, how hot 
my back is !" 

The mystery of Jim's present predicament is easily explained. The 
skirts of his jeans coat, having come in contact with the wind-tossed flames, 
caught fire, and were burned to the shoulders before he was aware of the 
accident. The garment was rendered entirely useless, and even his panta- 
loons were burnt to his skin, in several places. 

Jim began to think it as bad to stand as to lay guard, and concluded 
that, of the two, fire was more dangerous than Indians ; — for, one thing 
was certain, the Indians had never yet injured him, but he could not say as 
much of fire ! 

In the morning, as may be supposed, our hero's last mishap was the 
prolific subject of comment, and the wags were promptly on the alert to 
amuse themselves still further at his expense : 

" Say, would you believe it ! — That's the way Jim 's hit upon to shine in 
this crowd, — he burns up his old coat to make a light .'" 

" Ah, ha ! So he means to shine by the light of his old clothes, and 
come it over us in an underhand manner ! Jim, that '11 never do ; — I tell 
you, once for all." 

" Wonder if he wont burn up himself next ?" 

" He ? No. He's too green and sappy to burn himself, and so he takes 
his old clothes !" 

" Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, 
lose hat, stick coat in him fire ! Poor fellow. No can do without Jim, 
no how." 

The third day succeeding the last mentioned adventure, we passed a 
stream, called by the traders Johnson's creek, in memory of a man by that 
name who was murdered in its vicinity, several years since, by the 
Indians. 

He was a missionary, and on his way to Oregon, with a party headed by 
one John Gray. As they were about to raise camp, one morning, a band 
of Yanktau-Sioux came charging over the hills, and preparations were 
made to resist them. Such a course Mr. Johnson felt scrupulous of acced- 
ing to, and stoutly protested against it, — aflirming it to be wrong. 

As the savages approached, the ill-fated man stepped forward to meet 
them unarmed, despite the remonstrances of his comrades, — imagining the 
Indians would not kill him, as he was a missionary and had came to do 
them/good. 

They, however, proved regardless of him or his intended good, and he 
fell the victim of his own foolish credulity. Three Indians fell in the con- 
flict that ensued, and he and they filled the same grave. 



THE BRAVE BEAR. 55 

Oct. 2Ath. About noon we crossed Gonneville's creek, a large easterly 
affluent of the Platte, This stream also derives its name from a trapper, 
killed near it in an Indian fight, some eight years since. 

Upon the south bank of Gonneville's creek, ten or twelve miles from the 
river, is a singular natural formation, known as the Court House, or 
McFarlan's Ca&de, on account of its fancied resemblance to such a struc- 
ture. It rises in an abrupt quadrangular form, to a height of three or 
four hundred feet, and covers an area of two hundred yards in length by 
one hundred and fifty broad. Occupying a perfectly level site in an open 
prairie, it stands as the proud palace of Solitude, amid her boundless do- 
mains. 

Its position commands a view of the country for forty miles around, and 
meets the eye of the traveller for several successive days, in journeying 
up the Platte. We have been in sight of it for tliree days, and even now 
seem no nearer than at first, notwithstanding our course, meanwhile, has 
borne not far from a direct line towards it. 

Here, for the first time, I remarked tlie deceptiveness of distances, on 
the high prairies and in regions adjacent to the mountains. Sometimes an 
object will appear as if within a mile, at most, which cannot be reached 
short of fifteen or twenty miles ; then, again, objects will seem to be much 
further off than they really are. 

I attribute this, in part, to three several causes : — First, the variable state 
of the atmosphere, in regard to density. Second, the absence or plenitude 
of humid exhalations and effluviae in the air of diflerent regions. Third, 
the peculiar locality of some places in regard to the reception of the sun's 
rays. 

In passing from Gonneville's creek to Fort Platte, we encountered no 
more buffalo, — these animals having been driven back into the high prairies 
by bands of strolling Indians. 

If the prospect had hitherto been lonesome, it now seemed threefold 
lonely. The hard-beaten footpaths that had furrowed the bottoms and 
plains, in all directions, ever since our first entrance to the buffalo range, 
were still seen ; but, unhonored by the presence and unmarked by the foot- 
prints of their whilom travellers, they looked like the once oft-trodden 
streets of some deserted city. 

Late in the afternoon we were joined by two engages from Fort Platte, 
whose object it was to hasten our advance. Soon after, we entered upon 
a stretch of burnt prairie, and were compelled to travel till daylight the 
next morning, before a sufficiency of grass could be found for a camping 
place. 

Oct. 25th. Resuming our course about midday, we had proceeded only 
a few miles, when a mounted Indian appeared upon the opposite bank of 
the river, and accosted us : 

" Chay, cullo ! — Hanno chaum-pa-monet ha Mena-huska tour ?" (Tell 
me, friend ! — Are those the Long-knife's* waggons ?) 

* This term seems to call for a word of explanation. Our company was designated 
by the Indians as the Long-knife, or American company,— a terra by which aU 



56 BULL TAIL. 



On being answered in the affirmative, he commenced crossing to join us. 

Plunging into the river with his Jiorse, he had proceeded about midway 
of the stream, when the panting beast suddenly sank into the quicksand, 
throwing its rider head foremost into the water. At length, having effected 
a ford, he hurried up to us, profusely dripping with wet. as evidence of 
the thorouorhness of his recent drenching. 

First shaking hands with the company, he began to inquire about liquor, 
affirming the waggons contained that article, and adding, it was " right the 
Long-knife should bring tlie fire-water to give to the red man," as did tlie 
Bad-medicine, — but it was wrong to sell it. For his part he would not buy 
the fire- water. He would buy blankets, knives, beads, and ammunition, — 
not the fire-water ; but the Long-knife should give it to him. 

The personage thus introduced was one of the chiefs of the Brulc- 
Sioux, and sported the name of Marto-cogershne, or Brave Bear. He was 
a turbulent fellow, that proved the pest of his village traders. Slim and 
spare-made in person, he was somewhat pale and sickly looking, and seemed 
about thirty years of age. His arms were a short fusee, with a bow and 
arrows slung to his shoulders, and a butcher-knife affixed to his belt. His 
hair was long, parted in front, and turned backwards ; that upon the occiput, 
being bound in a cluster with panther's skin, hung in a plated cue and 
almost trailed the ground, while a lone eagle's plume completed his head- 
dress. A robe enveloped his body, which, with moccasins, leggins, and 
breech-cloth, constituted his full costume, — a description of dress respond- 
ing to that almcst universally common among mountain tribes. 

We were soon joined by others of his people, who eagerly enquired re- 
specting the amount of liquor brought with us. 

Among these were several individuals recognized by our voyageurs as 
old acquaintances; particularly one, an old chief called Bull Tail, (Tah- 
tunga-sana.) who was distinguished in attire from all his fellows by the 
addition of a hair-seal cap and a frock-coat, which he had received as pre- 
sents from the whites. 

One of our party gave a favorable account of the old fellow, and related 
a story much to his credit. 

The narrator, during the previous winter, while searching for stray horses 
among the hills, had become so bewildered he was unable to find his way 
back to camp. He thus wandered for four successive days, unarmed, with- 
out food, and with but a single robe for covering. His destiny would, 
doubtless, have been to perish, had not the kind hearted Tah-tunga-sana 
discovered him, and, pitying his forlorn condition, taken him to the village, 
upon his own horse, some twenty miles off, going himself on foot the entire 
distance. Here, the lost one was treated to the best the lodge of liis de- 
liverer afTljrded, and, when sufficiently recovered, he was escorted to the 
nearest station of the whites. 

I turned lor another look at the worthy chieftain, who now rode up 
and greeted his protege with much cordiality. 

Americans are known among tliem. The American Fur Company, employing almost 
extluf^ively Frenchmen, or individuals speaking the French language, receives the 
appellation of Wah-ceicha, or the Ijad-medicine company, — a phrase universally ap- 
plied to the French among the mountain tribes. 



SPEECH OF MARTO-COGERSHNE. 67 

He appeared to be about eighty years of age, and was gray-headed, 
spare-visaged, and much wrinkled. His coat, buttoned close around him, 
served for a robe, while his matted ear-locks disclosed upon the one side a 
raven's and upon the other a hawk's feather, for ornaments. His face, 
like those of his companions, was liberally bedaubed with vermilion, and 
each cheek embellished with alternate spots of white and black, by way of 
variety. His only weapons were a bow, arrows, and a tomahawk-pipe. 

As a whole, he presented rather a shabby and iudricrous appearance, 
that, were it not for the recollection of his worthy conduct, would have ex- 
cite J, in the mind of the beholder, far more of contempt than interest. 

A Sioux squaw, the wife of a French engage, accompanying us on her 
return from the States, now received the marked attention of our visitors. 
It is rare that an Indian will shake hands with a woman ; but now, they 
might break through the restraints of custom ; this was a special case ; she 
had visited the white man's lodge, and could tell them many interesting 
things, — she was something more than a common squaw, — they might 
shake hands with her. She was accordingly greeted in a most flattering 
manner, and found tedious employment in answering the numerous ques- 
tions with which she was plied. 

Continuing for a few miles further, we made camp just at nightfall, and 
were promptly joined by a new recruit of inquisitive visitors, from an ad- 
joining Village. 

The whole throng of Indians now numbered some thirty, and demanded 
a " talk " with the Long-knife. Upon this a circle was formed, with the 
whites upon one side and Indians upon the other, when Marto-cogershne 
opened the harangue in behalf of his people. 

He commenced in a low, distinct tone of voice. His robe, dawn loosely 
around him, was held to its place by the left hand, exposing his right arm 
and shoulder. As he proceeded he became more animated, and seemed to 
enter into the full spirit of his discourse. The modulations of his voice, 
its deep intonations and expressive cadences, coupled with a corresponding 
appropriateness of every look and gesture, presented one of the most per- 
fect specimens of delivery I ever witnessed. 

His speech, as imperfectly translated upon the occasion, rnn as follows : 

'* Long-knife : We are glad to see you — we are glad to see your people, 
and shake you all by the hand, that we may smoke together and be 
friends. 

" Long-knife : We are glad the Great Spirit has put it into your heart to 
return with the road-travellers, (waggons,) and the white buifalo, (oxen,) 
and the medicine-dogs, (horses,) bearing fire-water, (whiskey,) blankets, 
and many other good things, ere yet the chill winds and snows have com- 
pelled His children to light the lodge-tires of winter. The Long-knife 
brings choice things to the red man, and it is good that we trade. (Ap- 
plause.) 

" The Great Spirit is good to His children. To us He has given the 
buffalo, the elk, tlie deer, and the antelope, that we may be fed and clothed, 
and furnished with lodges to shelter us trom the storms and cold. To us 
He has given the mountains and prairies, for hunting grounds. For us He 
has taught the streams to flow, and planted trees upon their banks, to give 



58 THE REPLY. 

as food and drink, that we may meet around our lodge-fires with comfort 
and rejoice in His goodness, even while he spreads his white robe upon the 
hills, and lays the conch of winter upon the plains. 

"All these — all this country — everything that the Long-knife beholds are 
ours. The Yellow-hair* said truly, — all, all belong to us ; — we have them 
— the Great Spirit has given them to us, — they are ours ! (Great ap- 
plause.) 

" Long-knife : You have come to trade with us : — it is good. Your 
people are wise, and make many things ; — you bring them to us, and we 
take them ; but we give you robes and horses in their stead ; — we pay you 
for them all. Yet, the Long-knife pays not for all he takes from us. 

" Do I say the Long-knile steals ? No. The Long-knife will not steal. 
He says, none but bad men steal, and the Long-knife is not bad. But yet 
he takes our property without paying for it ! He kills our game, he eats our 
meat, he burns our wood, he drinks our water, and he travels our country, — 
and ivhat does he give the red man in exchange for all this ? (Unbounded 
applause.) 

" Long-knife and friend : My people are generous, — they are brave, — 
they are all soldiers. The Long-knife bears the fire-water in his road- 
travellers, (waggons ;) — we have heard of it and are glad. 

" My people would drink of the fire-water that their strong hearts may 
become stronger. It is good that they should drink it, — it is good that the 
Long-knife should give it to them ; that we be twice glad to see him, and 
bless him in our hearts while we drink around our lodge-fires. (Ap- 
plause.) 

" Long-knife : Would you be our friend ? Then give us the fire-water. 
My people are generous, but they are brave. The Long-knife has taken 
our property, let him refuse not the fire-water, lest they be angry and rise 
like the mountain bear, nerved for conflict. Then will they take it of 
themselves and avenge the wrongs of the red man !" (Great applause.) 

Upon this, the Brave Bear resumed his seat, and the commandant began 
his reply, which was rendered into the ISioux language, by their inter- 
preter. The purport of it was : 

" It is true, the Great Spirit is good to His children. He made all things 
of which the Brave Bear speaks, and He has given them to his children. 
The white and the red man are alike his children; the buffalo, the elk, the 
deer, and the antelope, with the wood, the water, and the whole country 
around, equally belong to both. 

" I and many people have come as friends, to trade with you. We have 
smoked with you before. The Long-knife takes nothing from you he pays 
not for. He buys the things he bears to you in a far distant country, and 
throws for them the white-iron. f He brings them to you and swaps them 
for robes and horses. 

" He takes nothing without paying for it, unless it be that which the Great 
Spirit has given equally to his children, — the white and the red man. 

* This is the name applied, by the Indians, to Gen. Clarke, one of the leaders of the 
firi^t party of whites that ever crossed the mountains. An allusion is here had to an 
expre>;t-ion made use of in his talk to the Sioux on that occasion. 

t Silver. I'his phrase is the Sioux mode of expressing the act of paying money 
for any article. 



TAH-TUNGA-SANA'S ADDRESS. 69 

" Would the Brave Bear and his people be friends to us ? We are friend- 
ly — we are generous. We will give tobacco to the Brave Bear, that he 
and his people may smoke and be our friends. But the Long-knife will 
not here give him the fire-water. Let him come to the Long-knife's lodge, 
then shall he have of it a little, that he may bless the Long-knife in his 
heart. The Brave Bear can have none now. 

" The Brave Bear says, his people are generous, but they are brave, — they 
are all soldiers. Be it so. My people are generous, — ihey are brave — 
they are all soldiers ! Does the Brave Bear wish lor fight ? My people are 
ready to either smoke or fight ! The Brave Bear says, unless I give him 
the fire-water for his people, they will nerve their arms for conflict, and 
take it ! Will they ? Let them try ! The Long-knife says, lei them 
try .'" 

The conclusion of this reply was received with a bad grace by those to 
whom it was addressed, and created great excitement among tliein. Seve- 
ral left for the village, obviously for the purpose of arming and returning 
with increased numbers to the meditated attack. 

Meanwhile our arms were put in a proper condition for resistance, and 
all needful arrangements made to give the assailants a warm reception 
should they commence upon us. This done, our commandant brought a 
few plugs of tobacco, and, laying them before the Brave Bear, said : 

"It is good that the Brave Bear and his people should snjoke. Here is 
tobacco, — let him take it to his warriors that we and they be friends ; — or 
would he rather fight?" 

Bull Tail. (Tah-tunga-sana,) who had had hitherto remained silent, row 
arose and addressed his companions: 

"Tah-tuuga-sana is grieved at the words of the Brave Bear. Would 
my brotheis fight the Long-knife, and rob him of what he has brought to us, 
that they may become fools by drinking the fire-water ? 

" Who shall then bring us medicine-irons (guns) to kill our meat ; or 
knives to butcher it; or blankets and beads for our squaws; or the red- 
earth (vermilion) to paint our faces when we arm for war ? And, who 
shall bring us all the other things so needful for us ? 

" The Long-knife will not do it. You rob him. No one will bring them 
to us. We shall be without them ! We shall be poor indeed ! 

" Brothers : Why would you drink the fire-water, and become fools ? 
Would it not be better that the Long-knife no more bring it to us ? We 
give for it our robes and our horses ; — it does us no good. It makes us 
poor. We fight our own brothers, and kill those we love, because the fire- 
water is in us and makes our hearts bad ! The fire-water is the red man's 
enemy ! 

"Brothers: Tah-tunga-sana is old; — will you hsten to him. He has 
been always the friend of the pale-face. When first the Yellow-hair (Gen. 
Clarke) came to the red man's lodge, Tah-tunga-sana took him by the hand. 
He will always take the pale -face by the hand. He loves the' pale-face. 
The pale-face is his brother, — he is our brother ! — He brings us many good 
things. 

" Brothers : The Long- knife has spoken well. It is good that we smoke, 
— that we, and the Long-knite, and his people may be friends. Let us ac- 



60 THE CHIMNEY. 

cept his present, and go to our lodges, and there tell to our children how 
kind the Long-knife is to the red man." 

The speech was received in silence, — no one expressing either approba- 
tion or dissent, as the old man resumed his seat. The Brave Bear hung 
his head sullenly, but said nothing. 

The talk had evidently come to a close. At last. Bull Tail arose, and. 
shaking hands with the commandant and each of the company, took the 
tobacco and left for the village. The others soon after, one by one, follow- 
ed his example, and we were finally rid of their unwelcome presence ; — 
not, however, until they had stolen an axe and several other articles, de- 
spite the strictness of our vigilance. 



CHAPTER VII. 

The Chimney. — A bet. — Spur of the Rocky Mountains. — Scott's Bluff. — Romantic 
scenery. — Mimic city. — A pyramid. — A monument. — An elevated garden. — Moun- 
tain sheep. — An Eden. — Death in camp. — The wanderer's grave. — Horse Creek 
and gold. — Goche's hole. — Arrival at Fort Platte. — Remarks by the way. — 
Prairie travel. — Locality and description of the Fort. — Indian lodges. — 3Iigratory 
habits of mountain and prairie tribes. — Scenes at Fort. — Drunken Indians.— Tra- 
gical event.— Indian funeral.— Speech of Etespa-huska on the death of his 
father. 

Oct 26ih. Raising camp at daylight we resumed our way, and soon 
afterwards arrived opposite the " Chimney," an extraordinary natural curi- 
osity that had continued in view and excited our admiration for some four 
days past. 

This singular formation surmounts a conical eminence which ripes, isola- 
ted and lonely, in the open prairie, reaching a height of three hundred feet. 
It is composed of terrene limestone and marl, quadrangularly shaped, like 
the spire of some church, six feet by ten at its base, with an altitude of 
more than two hundred feet, — making, tognther wit!i the mound, an eleva- 
tion of five hundred feet.* A grand and imposing spectacle, truly ; — a 
wonderful display of the eccentricity of Nature ! 

How came such an immense pi!e so singularly situated ? What causes 
inited their aid to throw up this lone column, so majestic in its solitude, to 
overlook the vast and unbroken plains that surround it ? 

The " Chimney " is situated about three miles to the left of the moun- 
tain trail, though it seems no more than eight hundred yards distant. Upon 
this question our party entertained no small diversity of opinion. Some 
of the less knowing were confident it could not exceed a half mile; and 
one fellow offered to bet five dollars he could run to it in fifteen minutes. 

* Formerly the " Chimney " was much higher than at present, and could be dis- 
tinctly seen in a clear day as far as Ash creek. The wind and the rain are continu- 
ally reducing it; and it is said to be full fifty feet less than it was nine years ago. 
Calculating from tliis datura, what must have been its altitude no longer remote than a 
couple of centuries ! 



A MONUMENT. 61 

The banter was promptly accepted, and the " greenhorn," doffing his 
coat and hat, started in full expectation of winning the wager. But, in- 
stead of fifteen, it took him forty-five minutes to reach the spot ! 

The day after passing the " Chimney," we entered a broad defile of 
lofty ridges, and made camp. This locality is known as Scott's BluffJ 
which is, properly speaking, a wing of the Rocky Mountains. 

From Ash creek to this place, an almost precipitous wall of arenaceous 
rock, limestone, and marl, shuts the high prairie from the river bottoms. 
As the traveller proceeds, this wall or ledge gradually increases in height, 
and recedes from the river, sometimes to a distance of thirty or forty miles, 
till it unites in a chain of hills, many of which are covered with sturdy 
pines, and others are mere heaps of naked sand or indurated earth. The 
ridge then continues its course until it at length becomes united with the 
lateral chain of the Rocky Mountains, which bounds the " Plains of Lara- 
mie " upon the southeast. 

At Scott's Bluif these hills crowd themselves abruptly towards the 
Platte, where they present a most romantic and picturesque scenery. 

Our camp was in a rich opening, or valley, two miles wide, and walled 
in upon the right and left by perpendicular masses of earth and rock, that 
tower to a height of from three to eight hundred feet. In reaching it, the 
trail bore leftward from the river, about seven miles, through a level 
prairie, by which v/e were inducted to the valley, without any perceptible 
variation of its general surface. 

Near the entrance, upon our left, the spectacle was grand and imposing 
beyond description. It seemed as if Nature, in mere sportiveness, had 
thought to excel the noblest works of art, and rear up a mimic city as the 
grand metropolis of her empire. 

There stood the representations of palaces, with their domes and balus- 
trades^ ; churches, with their spires and cupolas ; and streets, with their 
gigantic dwellings, stores, work-shops, and ware-houses. And there, also, 
were parks, pleasure-grounds, and public squares, all so admirably defined 
by the agency of the winds and rains of ages, that the traveller might 
readily imagine himself to have arrived within the precincts of the desert- 
ed city of some peopleless country, whose splendor and magnificence once 
more than vied with the far-famed Palmyra of the desert, even in its best 
days. 

To the right arose a pile of sand-rock and marl in pyramidal form, 
three hundred feet high, that occupied its prairie site detached from hill or 
otiier eminence. 

Near this stood a more singular natural formation than any pre- 
viously noticed. It described a complete circle, of one thousand feet in 
circumference, and attained an altitude of not far from four hundred feet. 
Its sides were of great regularity, and represented masses of solid mason- 
work, rising abruptly till within sixty or seventy feet of the summit, where 
they accline in a blunt, cone-like manner, reducing the periphery to one 
third that of its base. At this point is reposed a semi-spherical form, reg- 
ularly jutting with a gradual swell upon all sides — then tapering to an oval 
shape till near the apex, at which the whole mass is surmounted by a rude 
imitation of sculptured flame, pointing upwards to the sun, as if this 



62 DEATH IN CxiMP. 



Btrange monument of nature had been erected in honor of the great source 
of hght and heat ! 

Still further to the right, upon the river bank, is another immense pile, 
exceeding either of the before described in altitude. It is an oblong 
square, and presents erect lateral walls upon three sides, leaving upon the 
fourth a gradual acclivity which faces the river. Its summit expands 
into a beautiful terrace containing an area of several acres, which at the 
proper season is adorned with herbs, flowers, shrubbery, and grass, like a 
pleasure garden upon some house-top, and commands a view of the whole 
country, lending enchantment to the neighboring scenes. Its base is about 
one mile long by twelve hundred yards wide, and points endwise from the 
river towards the valley. 

Then comes the continuous wall which bounds the locality upon the 
right. This likewise presents a level summit, varying from hlteen yards 
to a half mile in breadth, for a distance of ten miles, when, slowly sinking 
in its course, it finally becomes lost in the prairie. 

Covered with grass and shrubs, it is the favorite home of the mountain 
sheep, where she breeds and rears her young, secure in her inaccessible 
fastnesses ; and ofttimes from its precipitous edge, at elevations of six or 
eight hundred feet above the adjacent prairie, will her head and mammoth 
horns be seen, peering in wonder upon the rare traveller, as he passes 
adown the valley. 

The interval between the two mural ridges is of uniform width for about 
ten miles, and is watered by a beautiful stream nearly the whole distance, 
when it inducts the traveller to the open prairie, — leaving the immense wall 
which bounded it upon tJie leftward, at his entrance, transformed to high 
conical hills, covered with pines, and almost lost to view in the growing 
space ; while that upon his right, diminishing in size, gradually disappears 
and unites with the far-spreadmg plain. 

Most of the varieties of wild truits indigenous to the mountains are 
found in this vicinity, and also numerous bands of buffalo, elk, deer, sheep, 
and antelope, with the grizzly bear. 

In the summer months the prospect is most dehghtful, and afTords to the 
admiring beholder an Eden of fruits and flowers. No liigher encomium 
could be passed upon it than by employing the homely phrase of one of 
our voyageurs. In speaking of the varied enchantments of its scenery at 
that season, he said : " I could die here, then, — certain of being not far from 
heaven !" 

Before leaving this romantic spot, feelings of gloom and melancho- 
ly usurped those of pleasing admiration, by the death of one of our 
number. 

The deceased was on his way to the mountains for the recovery of his 
health, with a frame fearfully reduced by the ravages of that fell destroyer, 
consumption. For several days past he had declined rapidly, owing to 
the weather and the unavoidable exposure incident to our mode of travel- 
ling. To-day the cold was more than usually severe, and an uncomforta- 
ble rain and sleet commenced soon after camping. In an attempt to pass 
from the waggons to the fire, he staggered and fell ; — before any one of 
us could arrive to his assistance, he had breathed his last. 



THE WANDERER'S GRAVE. 63 



We buried him upon the bank of the stream that wends its course 
through the valley. Darkness, with its sable pall, had enveloped the 
scene as we covered him from view, and left the winds and the wolves to 
howl his requiem, until the voice of spring shall bid the wild-flowers 
grow and bloom upon his grave. 

This lovely valley had before this witnessed the death-scene of one who 
left his bones to bleach within its hmits. His name was Scott, from whom 
the neighboring eminences derive their present appellation. 

Attracted by the enchanting beauty of the place and the great abundance 
of game the vicinity aff)rded, he wandered hither alone and made it his 
temporary residence. While thus enjoying the varied sweets of solitude, 
he became the prey of sickness and gasped his life away; — and none 
were there to watch over him, but the sun by day and the stars by night: 
or fan his fevered brow, save the kindly breezes ; or bemoan his hapless 
fate, other than the gurgling stream that sighed its passing sympathy be- 
side the couch of death ! 

There is a mournful interest and a touching melancholy associated with 
this simple story, that must thrill with emotion the finer feelings of our 
nature. The incjdent, which had so recently transpired, contributed to en- 
hance these gloomy sensations to an extent I never before experienced. I 
felt — I cannot tell how. I felt like giving vent to my feelings in verse. — 
Yet, I cannot urite poetry. I made the attempt, however, and here is the 
result before the reader : 

THE WANDERER'S GRAVE. 

Away from friends, away from home, 

And all the heart holds dear, 
A weary wand'rer laid him down, — 

Nor kindly aid was near. — 

And sickness prey'd upon his frame 

And told its tale of woe, 
While sorrow mark'd his pallid cheeks 

And sank his spirit low. 

Nor waiting friends stood round his couch 

A healing to impart, — 
Nor human voice spoke sympathy, 

To sooth his aching heart. 

The stars of night his watchers were, — 

His fan the rude winds' breath, 
And while they sigh'd their hollow moans, 

He closed his eyes in death. 

Upon the prairie's vast expanse 

This weary wand'rer lay ; 
And far from friends, and far from home, 

He breath'd his life away ! 



64 HORSE CREEK.— GOLD. 



A lovely valley marks the spot 

That claims his lowly bed ; 
But o'er the wand'rer's hapless fate 

No friendly tear was shed. 

No willing grave received the corse 

Of this poor lonely one ; — 
His bones, alas, were left to bleach 

And moulder 'neath the sun ! 

The night-wolf howl'd his requiem, — 

The rude winds danced his dirge ; 
And e'er anon, in mournful chime, 

Sigh'd forth the mellow surge ! 

The Spring shall teach the rising grass 

To twine for him a tomb ; 
And, o'er the spot where he doth lie, 

Shall bid the wild flowers bloom. 

But, far from friends, and far from home, 

Ah, dismal thought, to die ! 
Oh, let me 'mid my friends expire. 

And with my fathers lie. 

Oct. 21ih. The day being clear and pleasant, we travelled rapidly, and 
in the course of the afternoon reached Horse creek. This stream is a 
large affluent of the Platte, heading in the Black Hills, and, tracing its way 
in a northeasterly direction, through a timberless country, (in many places 
mere barren wastes,) makes its debouchment nearly fifteen miles above 
Scott's Bluff. 

The region adjacent to its head is represented as being rich in minerals, 
among which is gold ; and from my limited information respecting its geo- 
logical character, I am inclined to accredit the rumor. The story runs 
thus : 

Six or eight years since, Du Shay, an old French hunter, while ranging 
in the parts above alluded to, on crossing one of the two principal Ibrks 
that unite to form the main stream, observed a singular looking something 
in the creek bed, which he picked up. It was apparently a fragment of 
rock, very heavy, and contained numerous yellow specks. 

Having deposited it in his bullet-pouch for preservation, subsequently, in 
approaching a band of buffalo, its weight became so annoying he thought- 
lessly threw it away. The year following he visited Santa Fe, at which 
place his pouch was accidentally emptied, and, among its contents, several 
bright particles, that had become parted from the rock, attracted the atten. 
tion of the Mexicans. These were carefully gathered up, and, upon due 
examination, proved to be virgin gold. 

The old man, on his return, searched diligently for the spot that afford- 
ed the treasure he had so foolishly thrown away, — but (not being intellect- 



PRAIRIE TRAVEL. 66 



ually one of the brightest gems of nature's casket, and feeble and childish 
withal) he was nnable to hnd it, or even to decide upon which of the two 
streams it belonged. 

Upon one of the affluents of Horse creek, thirty or forty miles south of 
the Platte, is a beautiful valley, shut in by two ridges of precipitous hills, 
known as Goche's hole. 

This locality, in wildness and picture!?que beauty, claims alfinity to the 
nei^borhood of Scott's BlufT. Its area is broad and of several miles extent, 
— inacessible exce])t at two or three points. The surrounding hills are gen- 
erally composed of marl and earthy limestone. Towering in vertical walls 
to the jjeigiit of many hundred feet, th( y present the appearance of a 
strongly fortified place. Tlie soil is remarkably rich, well watered, and 
timbered, — strikingly contrasting with the nude sterility and desolation of 
the circumjacent country. 

A heavy fall of snow during the night prevented our leaving camp until 
the fourth day subsequent, when were ; gain cii route. Having })assed the 
nighc of Nov. 1st at Morain's Point, the next day we arrived at Fcrt Platte. 
This latter place is situated a short distance above the mcuth of Larra- 
mie river, and is our point of present destination. 

From Horse creek to the Larramie river, the bottoms, in many places', 
afibrded dense groves of heavy timber — the more agreeable as we had 
been so long accustomed to open and woodless prairies. 

The geological character of the country is nearly the same with that 
previnu.-ly described — though possessed of greater humJdity of soil. The 
formations, noticed in the vicinity of Scott's Bluff and Goche's hole, have 
merged into strata of limestone of various shades and compactness, with 
occasional layers of primitive sandstone. 

'^I'he prairies were beautifully undulating, and covered with lusty growths 
of dried vegetation. The hills, now and then, were ornamented with a few 
scattering pines and cedars, which stood like lonely sentinels to watch the 
progress of changing seasons. 

As some of my readers may entertain the design of visiting these remote 
regions, or passing beyond them to the more distant shores of the Pacilic, 
it may not be deemed a digression for me to present a few hints as to the 
most adv. sable mode of travelling upon this long and wearisome journey. 

A caravan of waggons should make only two camps per day. Travehers 
should adopt the rule to start at daylight and continue until ten o'clock, 
A. M., — then, having halted some six hours, (if it be summer, if spring or 
fall, four only.) again resume their way till after sundown. 

Fil'teen miles, upon an average, are as far as an ox team should travel 
per day, — mules or horses might keep on for twenty miles. 

Caravans ought always to lay by in rainy weather, as the wet and irrita- 
tion consequent upon draught, gall the neck and shoulders of their ani- 
mals and soon render them unht for service ; — every precaution should be 
taken to preserve their strength and soundness, as upon them rests the sole 
dependence of a travelhng company. 

A mounted party ought, as a general thing, to observe the same rules, 

5 



66 LODGES OF MOUNTAIN INDIANS. 

and not think of averaging over twenty-five miles per day. They might 
travel later ; but in such cases, they should always proportionally lengthen 
their noon halt. 

In the above manner the entire journey from Indpendence to the Pacific 
may be performed without injury to animals, or the expenses attendant 
upon a relay. 

Fort Platte, being next to Fort Hall, the most important point on the 
route to Oregon, calls for a brief description. This post occupies the left bank 
of the North Fork of Platte river, three-fourths of a mile above the mouth 
of Larramie, in lat. 42^ 12' 10" north, long. 105° 20' 13" west from Green- 
wich,* and stands upon the direct waggon road to Oregon, via South 
Pass. 

It is situated in the immediate vicinity of the Oglallia and Brule divisions 
of the Sioux nation, and but little remote from the Chyennes and Arapaho 
tribes. Its structure is a fair specimen of most of the establishments em- 
ployed in the Indian trade. Its walls are " adobies," (sun-baked brick,) 
four feet thick, by twenty high — enclosing an area of two hundred and 
fifty feet in length, by two hundred broad. At the northwest and south- 
west corners are bastions which command its approaches in all directions. 

Within the walls are some twelve buildings in all, consisting as follows : 
Office, store, warehouse, meat-house, smith's shop, carpenter's shop, kitchen, 
and five dwellings, — so arranged as to form a yard and corel, sufficiently 
large for the accommodation and security of more than two hundred head 
of animals. The number of men usually employed about the establish- 
ment is some thirty, whose chief duty it is to promote the interests of the 
trade, and otherwise act as circumstances require. 

The Fort is located in a level plain, fertile and interesting, bounded upon 
all sides by hills, many of which present to view the nodding forms of 
pines and cedars, that bescatter their surface, — while the river bottoms, at 
various points, are thickly studded with proud growths of cottonwood, ash, 
willow, and box-elder, thus affording its needful supplies of timber and 
fuel. 

One mile south of it, upon the Larramie, is Fort John, a station of the 
American Fur Company. Between these two posts a strong opposition is 
maintained in regard to the business of the country, little to the credit of 
either. 

At the time of our arrival at the Fort, two villages of Indians were en- 
camped near by. Their lodges, being the first I ever saw, proved objects 
of great interest to me. 

The lodge of a mountain Indian consists of a frame work of light poles, 
some twenty-five feet long, bound together at the small ends, and raised by 
planting the oppos.te extremities aslope, at given distances apart, so ns to 
describe a circle, at the base, converging to a triangular apex, for roof and 
sides ; — over this is spread a covering of buffalo robes, so nicely dressed 
and seamed, it readily sheds rain and excludes the fierce winds to which 
tlie country is subject. A small aperture at the top, affords passage for the 

* Obs. Lt. Fremont, in 1812. 



CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE SIOUX NATIOxV. 67 

smoke emitted from the fire occupyng the centre f^round work. The 
entrance is at the side, where a large piece of undressed buffalo skin (hung 
from the top and so placed as to be opened or closed, at pleasure, upon the 
ingress or egress of the inmate) furnishes the simple substitute for a 
door. 

These lodges (some of them containing quantities of roofage to the 
amount of ten or fifteen buffalo skins) are large and commodious ; and, 
even comfortable, in the severest weather ; the hea,t from the centre fire, 
being refracted on striking the sloping sides, communicates an agreeable 
warmth to every part. 

An Indian lodge, in the summer, is admirably adapted to the pleasure of 
its occupants, — by raising the lower extremeties of the envelope and 
securing them at a proper elevation, a free passage of air is obtained, 
which greatly contributes to increase the merits of the delightful shade 
afforded by the superstructure. 

A lodge of the largest size may easily be made to accommodate fifteen 
persons. The interior is arranged by placing the fixtures for sleeping at 
the circumference of the circle, which afford seats to the inmates, and thus 
a sufficient space is left vacant between them and the centre fire. 

This kind of dwelling is the one almost universally adopted by the 
mountain and prairie Indians, and is, perhaps, better suited to their con- 
dition and mode of life than any other that could be devised. 

Dependent solely upon the chase for a subsistence, the various Indian 
tribes inhabiting the mountains and countries adjacent can occupy no 
fixed residences. Contrary to the habits of more eastern nations, among 
whom agriculture commands attention to a greater or less extent, they are 
continually necessitated to rove from place to place in pursuit of game. 

Give to one of them a bow, arrows, knife, lodge, and running horse, and 
he is rich, happy and contented. When the erratic propensities of the 
buffalo (upon which is his almost exclusive dependence) compel him to 
change his location, he has only to pull down his lodge, saddle his horse, 
and away. 

So accustomed are they to this incessant rambling, they regard it more 
as a pleasure than an inconvenience. I have frequently seen lumdrcds of 
families moving together, — presenting to the unsophisticated beholder a 
novel and amusing spectacle, — with their horses, mules, dogs, men, 
squaws, children, and all the paraphernalia of savage domestic economy, 
and the rude accoutrements of peace and war, commingled indiscrimi- 
nately. 

The Sioux tribe, to whose country we have now introduced the reader, 
is, perhaps, the largest Indian nation upon the continent of North America, 
with the exception of the ancient Mexicans, if indeed they may be called 
Indians. This tribe occupies a territory extending from the St. Peters, 
of the Mississippi, to the Missouri, and from thence to the forks of the 
Platte, and up that river to its head- waters. They are supposed to num- 
ber not far from eighty thousand men, women, and children, and are divided 
into many fractional parts, each bearing its own name, yet speaking the 
same language and claiming a common nationality. 

Of these divisions are the Bruits, Ogl alias, Yanktaus, Piankshaws, 



68 DRUNKEN INDIANS. 

Minecosias, Blackfeet, Broken-arrows, and Assenaboins, with many oth- 
ers whose names have escaped my recollection. The only perceptible 
difference, in language, is, in the pronuciation of words like the following, 
meallo, appcUo and Lacota, — those upon the Mississippi, and some in 
the vicinity of the Missouri, pronouncing them meaddo, appeddo, and Da- 
cota. 

The members of this nation, so far as my observation extends, are a 
cowardly, treacherous, thieving set, taken as a bod}^ — and are well desemng 
the appellation of mean and contemptible ; though there are some hon- 
orable exceptions to the remark. 

Any effort to civilize them must necessarily prove tedious, if not alto- 
gether impracticable, while they adhere to their present roving habits ; — 
though three several missionary stations have been recently established 
among them, with slight success ; viz : at St. Peters, Lac qui Parle, and 
Traverse des Sioux. But the Indians of those sections, being under the 
more direct influence of the U. S. Government, have begun to abandon 
their former wandering habits, and betake themselves to agricultural pur- 
suits. 

The term Siuox, as applied to this nation, is of Franco-Canadian ori- 
gin — being a corruption of the word sued, and means drnnk or drunken, — in 
allusion to their excessive fondness for liquor and predilection to inebri- 
acy. The name by which they call themselves, and are known among 
other tribes, is Lacota, or CiU-ihroats, — for such is the literal meaning of 
the term ; and rarely, indeed, were ever a pack of scoundrels more justly 
entitled to the -appellation. 

The night of our arrival at Fort Platte was the signal for a gTand jollifi- 
cation to all hands, (with two or three exceptions,) who soon got most 
gloriously drunk, and such an illustration of the beauties of harmony as 
was then perpetrated, would have rivalled Bedlam itself, or even the famous 
: ouncil chamber beyond the Styx. 

Yelling, screeching, firing, shouting, fighting, swearing, drinking, and 
such like interesting performances, were kept up without intermission, — 
and woe to the poor fellow who looked for repose that night, — he might as 
well have thought of sleeping with a thousand cannon bellowing at his 
ears. 

The scene was prolonged till near sundown the next day, and several 
made their egress from this beastly carousal, minus shirts and coats, — with 
swollen eyes, bloody noses, and empty pockets, — the latter circumstance 
will be easily understood upon the mere mention of the fact, that liquor, in 
this country, is sold for four dollars per pint. 

The day following was ushered in by the enactm.ent of another scene 
of comico-tragical character. 

The Indians encamped in the vicinity, being extremely sohcitous to imi- 
tate the example of their " illustrious predecessors," soon as the first tints 
of morning began to paint the east, commenced their demands for fire- 
water ; and, ere the sun had told an hour of his course, they were pretty 
well advanced in the state of " how came ye so," and seemed to exercise 
their musical powers in wonderful rivalry with their white brethren. 

Men, women, and children were seen running from lodge to lodge with 



AN INDIAN FUNERAL. 69 

vessels of liquor, inviting their friends and relatives to drink ; while 
whooping, singing, drunkenness, and trading for fresh supplies to admin- 
ister to the demands of intoxication, had evidently become the order of 
the day. Soon, individuals were noticed passing from one to another, with 
mouths full of the coveted fire-water, drawing the lips of favored friends 
in close contact, as if to kiss, and ejecting the contents of their own into 
the eager mouths of others, — thus affording the delighted recipients tests 
of their fervent esteem in the heat and strength of the strange draught. 

At this stage of the game the American Fur Company, as is charged, 
commenced dealing out to them, gratuitously, strong drugged liquor, for 
the double purpose of preventing a sale of the article by its competitor in 
in trade, and of creating sickness, or inciting contention among the Indians, 
while under the influence of sudden intoxication, — hoping thereby to 
induce the latter to charge its ill efTects upon an opposite source, and thus, 
by destroying the credit of its rival, monopolize for itself the whole trade. 

It is hard to predict, with certainty, what would have been the result of 
this reckless policy, had it been continued through the day. Already its 
effects became apparent, and small knots of drunken Indians were seen in 
various directions, quarrelling, preparing to fight, or fighting, — w^hile others 
lay stretched upon the ground in helpless impotency, or staggered from 
place to place with all the revolting attendencies of intoxication. 

The dram-a., however, was here brought to a temporary close by an inci- 
dent which made a strange contrast in its immediate results. 

One of the head chiefs of the Brule village, in riding at full speed from 
Fort John to Fort Platte, being a little too drunk to navigate, plunged 
headlong from his horse and broke his neck when within a few rods of his 
destination. Then was a touching display of confusion and excitement. 
Men and squaws commenced bawling like children ; — the whites were bad, 
very bad, said they, in their grief, to give Susu-ceicha the fire-water that 
caused his death. But the height of their censure was directed against 
the American Fur Company, as its liquor had done the deed. 

The body of the deceased chief was brought to the Fort, by his rela- 
tives, with a request that the whites should assist at its burial ; but they 
were in a sorry plight for such a service. There, however, were found 
sufficiently sober for the task, and accordingly commenced operations. 

A scaffold was soon erected for the reception of the body, which, in 
the mean time, had been fitted for its last airy tenement. This duty 
was performed by the relatives of the deceased in the following manner : 
it was first washed, then arrayed in the habiliments last worn by Susu- 
ceicha during life, and sewed in several envelopes of lodge-skin, with the 
bow, arrows, and pipe once claiming him as their owner. This done, all 
things were ready for the proposed burial. 

The corpse was then borne to its final resting place, followed by a 
throng of relatives and friends. While moving onward with the dead, 
the train of mourners filled the air with their lamentations and rehearsals 
of the virtues and meritorious deeds of their late chief. 

Arrived at the scaffold, the corpse was carefully reposed open it facing 
the east, while beneath its head was placed a small sack of meat, tobacco 
and vermilion, with a comb, looking-glass, and knife, and at its ieei, a 
small banner that had been carried in the procession. A covering of 



70 SPEECH OF LONG BOW ON THE DEATH OF HIS FATHER. 



scarlet cloth was then spread over it, and the body firmly lashed to its 
place by long strips of raw hide. This done, the horse of the chieftain 
was produced as a sacrifice for the benefit of his master in his long 
journey to the celestial hunting ground. 

The above mode of sepulture is that commonly practised by the moun- 
tain tribes. It is seldom indeed they ever dispose of their dead in any 
other way than by placing them either upon scaffolds, branches of trees, 
or in some elevated position, not unfrequently covered by lodges, where 
they are left to moulder and waste in the winds and rain, till the bones, 
falling one by one upon the prairie, are gathered up by surviving friends, 
and finally entombed in mother earth. 

The corpse of the ill-fated man being thus securely fixed in the airy 
couch assigned it, to await the speedy process of dissolution, and mingle 
with its kindred earth, that its bones might find their proper places be- 
neath the prairie sod, the village once acknowledging him as its head 
now met round the scaffold, men. women, children, and little ones, to 
bewail the sad fate that had bereaved them of their loved chieftain. 

First, encircling it at a respectful distance, were seated the old men, 
next the young men and warriors, and next the squaws and children. 
Etespa-huska, (Long Bow,) eldest son of the deceased, thereupon com- 
menced speaking, while the weeping throng ceased its tumult to listen to 
his words : 

" Oh, Susu-ceicha ! thy son bemourns thee, even as was wont the 
fledgelings of the war-eagle to cry for the one that nourished them, 
ere yet thy swift arrow had laid him in dust. Sorrow fills the heart 
of Etespa-huska ; sadness crushes it to the ground and sinks it beneath 
the sod upon which he treads. 

"Thou hast gone, oh Susu-ceicha! Death hath conquered thee, 
whom none but death could conquer ; and who shall now teach thy son 
to be brave as thou was brave ; to be good as thou wast good ; to fight 
the foe of thy people and acquaint thy chosen ones with the war-song of 
triumph ! to deck his lodge with the scalps of the slain, and bid the feet 
of the young move swiftly in the dance 1 And who shall teach Etespa-hus- 
ka to follow the chase and plunge his arrows into the yielding sides of 
the tired bull 1 Who shall teach him to call for his prey from the deer, 
the elk, and the antelope, as thou hast done, or win honors from the 
slaughtered bear 1 

" None. Etespa-huska has no teacher. He is alone. Susu-ceicha is 
dead ! 

" But thou wilt soon gain the happy country. Thy journey is short. 
There wilt thou bestride the fleet horse.s that never tire, and roam amid 
the fruits and flowers, the sweet waters and pleasure-groves of that lovely 
clime ; for thou art worthy. 

"And, oh, Wakantunga! (Great Spirit,) do thou pity Etespa-huska. 
Do thou teach him to be brave and good like his father, for who is there 
to pity or teach him now he is left alone !" 

Then, turning to the audience he continued : 

" Brothers : Strong was the arm of Susu-ceicha, and fleet was the arrow 
shot from his bow. Thirty and five of the enemy hath he slain in battle, 
whose waving locks were the trophies that ofttimes measured the quick 



THE COAST CLEAR. 71 

step of the scalp-dance. Fourscore and ten were the medicine-dogs he 
brought from the land of the foeman, that their shrill neighings uiight 
greet the ears, and their strong backs carry the people he loved ; for 
brave was the heart of Susu-ceicha ! 

"What warrior ever came to his lodge and went hungry, or naked, or 
needy away 1 What widow or orphan of his people blessed not their 
chief, when he returned from the chase and apportioned to them their 
wonted dues from the choice spoils of the buffalo ] for generous was the 
soul of Susu-ceicha. 

" Brothers : Susu-ceicha is dead. No more shall his voice be heard 
in your councils, or his courage lead you to victory, or his generosity 
rejoice the hearts of the needy, the widow, and the orphan. Etespa- 
huska laments a father and a teacher. The Burnt-thighs* a mighty 
chieftain ; and the nation its bravest warrior ! We all niourn him ; sor- 
row fills the hearts, and tears wash the cheeks of his people. It is good 
that we bemourn him, and mingle with the winds the voices of our lam- 
entation, for who shall now stand in the place of Susu-ceicha. 

" Brothers : Let us stamp his memory upon our hearts and imitate his 
virtues, ihat our acts may rear to him a living monument, which may 
endure till time itself shall die !" 

No sooner had the orator ceased, than a tremendous howl of grief burst 
from the whole assemblage, men, women, and children, which was re- 
newed in quick succession for several hours, when finally tlie bewailing 
multitude retired to their lodoes. 



CHAPTER VIIL 



Coast clear, and Trade opened. — More visitors. — Smoking out the natives.— Inci- 
dent illustrative of Indian character. — Expeditions for trade. — Black Hills. — Raw- 
hide. — An Indian and a buffalo chase. — Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful 
journey. — L'eau-qui-court. — Remarks. — Lost. — White river; its vallej'^, fruits, and 
game. — Building site. — The Devil's Tea-pot. — Troubles with Indians. — Theft and 
its punishment. — Indian soldiers. — Christmas extras. — Outrageous conduct.— Ras- 
cality of traders.— " That Old Serpent."— Indian superstition, religious tenets 
and practices. — Notions upon general morality. 

The events of the day had for the present put an efTectual stop to dissi- 
pation among the Indians, and not long afterwards they began to pull down 
their lodges and remove to the neghborhood of buffalo, for the purpose of 
selecting w^inter-quarters. 

The disgusting scenes connect^d with our arrival at the Fort had pretty 
much ceased on the evening of the second day, and everything, with a few 
exceptions, began to assume its wonted aspect. 

* This is the interpretation of the Indian name which the French have supplied 
by the word Brule. 



72 EXPEDITION TO WHITE RIVER. 

The winter trade was now considered fully opened. Parties were sent 
with goods from the Fort to different villages, lor the purpose of barter, 
and aflairs began to show a business-like appearance. 

Some two weeks subsequently, a band of Brule s arrived in the vicinity. 
They had come for a drunken spree, and soon opened a brisk trade in 
liquor. 

Our visitors crowded the Fort houses in quest of articles of plunder, 
and became an incessant source of annoyance to the engages. One room, 
in particular, was thronged almost to the exclusion of its regular occu- 
pants. The latter, losing all patience, at length hit upon a plan to rid 
themselves of the intruders. 

After closely covering the chimney funnel, by aid of some half rotten 
chips a smoke was raised ; the doors and windows being closed to prevent its 
egress. In an instant the apartment became filled to suffocation, — quite 
too much so for the endurance of the wondering savages, who gladly with- 
drew to gain the pure air of the exterior. On being told it was the Long- 
knifo's medicine,* they replied : 

" Ugh ! Wakea sutiello ha Mena-huska tour !" (Ugh ! The Long-knife's 
medicine is strong !) 

During their stay at the Foil, an incident occurred which will serve to 
illustrate a, singular trait in the character of these Indians. 

A brave, named Bello-tunga, (Big Eagle,) received a blow over tlie head 
from a half crazed drunken trader, which came very near terminating in 
serious consequences. What would have been the result, it is hard to tell, 
had not the whites promptly interfered, and, with much effort, succeeded in 
pacifying the enraged savage by presenting him a horse. 

At first he would admit of no compromise short of the offender's blood — 
he had been struck by the pale-face, and blood must atone for the aggres- 
sion, — unless that should wipe out the disgrace, he could never again lilt 
up his head among his people, — they would call him a coward, and say the 
white man struck Bello-tunga and he dared not to resent it. 

The services of his father, hereupon, were secured in behalf of the 
offending party, which, after great ado, finally eflected an adjustment of 
the difficulty. 

An Indian considers it the greatest indignity to receive a blow from any 
one, even from his own brother ; — and, unless the affair is settled by the 
bestowment of a tres^iass offering on tlie part of the aggressor, he is almost 
sure to seek revenge, either through blood or the destruction of property. 
This is a more especial characteristic of the Sioux than of any other nation. 
In fact, the Snakes, Crows, Arapahos, Chyennes, and most other tribes are 
far less nice in its observance, — though all regard the like an insult that 
justly calls for revenge. 

Soon after, an expedition was detached to Fort Lancaster, on the South 
Fork Platte, and another to White river, an affluent of the Missouri, some 

*Tliis word, in Indian si^niification, means any person or thing possessed of extra- 
ordinary or supernatural powers, as well as any act for conciliating the favor and 
obtaining the assistance of the Great Spirit. That medicine is the strongest which is 
tlie most efficient for its intended purposes. 



A PROBLEM IN MORALITY. '73 

eighty miles northwest of the main trading post. The latter party included 
myself with its number. 

Our purpose was to build houses in the vicinity of White river, and thus 
secure the trade of several villages of Brules that had selected their winter 
quarters in the neighborhood, and were anxiously awaiting our arrival. 

On the last of November we were under way with two carts freighted 
with goods and liquor, accompanied by only six whites, one negro, and an 
Indian. 

Crossing the Platte opposite the Fort, we continued our course, west 
by north, over a broken and tumulous prairie, occasionally diversified by 
thick clusters of pines and furrowed by deep ravines, and abounding in 
diminutive valleys, whose tall, withered grass gave evidence of the rich 
soil producing it. To our left the high, frowning summits of the Black 
Hills began to show themselves in the long distance, like dark clouds, and 
planted their dense pine forests upon the broken ridges whose irregular 
courses invaded the cheerless prairie far eastward. 

A ride of twenty miles brought us to Rawhide, where we passed the 
following night and day. 

This creek traces its course over a broad sandy bed, through a wide valley 
of rich clayey loam, slightly timbered and luxuriant in grasses. Towards 
its head, it is shut in upon both sides by high pine hills ; but, in passing on, 
these mural confines are exchanged for the prairies, and the creek finally 
debouches into the Platte. 

An abundance of prelce and rushes afforded fine pasturage to our animals, 
and a kindly grove of dry cottonwood gave us requisite fuel for camp-fire. 

Before leaving, we were joined by another Indian mounted upon a dark 
bay horse, the noblest animal of its kind I remember to have seen among 
the mountain tribes. It had been stolen from the Snakes during the past 
summer, as its present owner informed us, and he seemed not a little proud 
of the admiration we bestowed upon it. 

The new comer proved Arketcheta-waka, (Medicine Soldier,) a brother 
of Bello-tunga, the brave referred to on a former occasion. Seating him- 
self by the fire, he looked dejected and melancholy, and his face bore in- 
dubitable evidence of a personal encounter with some one. 

On enquiring the cause of this, we learned that he had left his father's 
lodge by reason of a quarrel he had had with his eldest brother, — the latter 
having struck him with a fire-brand and burnt his body in several places 
during a drunken spree, — he was now on his way to White river, there to 
await the suitable time for revenge, when he should kill his brother. 

We told him this would not be right ; — it was liquor that had done him 
the wrong, and not his brother ; — liquor was bad ! 

He seemed to acknowledge the truth of our suggestions, and asked " why 
the pale-faces brought the fire-water to do the red man so much harm ?" 
Our trader replied, " Tlie whites want robes, and can get them for liquor 
when nothing else will do it." 

The answer evidently perplexed him, while he sat gazing silently into 
the fire, with his arms akimbo upon his knees, and palms supporting his 
chin, as if striving to work out to his own satisfaction this strange problem 
in morality . 



74 PAINFUL TRAVELLING. 

The third day we resumed our course, and, after a drive of six or eigh 
miles, came upon a large band of buflalo. Here, at our request, the Med 
icine Soldier dofled his robe, slung his arrow-case over his naked shoulders, 
mounted his horse bow in hand, and started for the chase. 

At first he rode slowly, as if reserving the speed of his charger till the 
proper time. The buffalo permitted him to approach within a few hundred 
yards before they commenced flight. Then was a magnificent spectacle. 

The afli-ighted beasts flew over the ground with all the speed that extreme 
terror lent to their straightened nerves, and plied their nimble feet with a 
velocity almost incredible — but they were no match for the noble steed the 
Indian bestrode. He was among them in a trice, and horse, Indian, and 
buffalo were lost in identity, as they swept over a snow-clad prairie, in 
one thick, black mass, like the career of a fierce tornado, tossing the loose 
drifts upwards in small particles, that, in their descent, pictured white clouds 
falling to the earth, ever and anon enshrouding the whole band from view. 

Now their course is turned and makes directly towards us. They pass, 
all foaming with sweat — with lolling tongues and panting breatli — but 
they still seem loath to abate from the energy of their wild terror. 

Soon the Indian and his gallant steed part from them. He has selected 
the choicest of the band and pursues her singly. Side by side both cow 
and horse keep even pace, while the ready archer pours in his arrows, — 
some of them, forcing their entire way through the bleeding beast, fall 
loosely to the ground upon the opposite side. 

At length, spent by the toilsome flight, exhausted by loss of blood, and 
pierced through her vitals by the practised marksman that follows her, she 
halts for fight. 

Now, she plunges with mad fury at the horse, — the well-trained steed 
clears the force of her charge at a bound. Again, she halts, — ^the blood 
spouts from her nostrils and mouth — she staggers. Again, she musters her 
expiring energies for one more desperate onset at her enemy, as if deter- 
mined, if die she must, not to die unavenged. Her charge proves futile as * 
the former. A death-sickness comes over her. Her life is fast ebbing from 
within her. She reels, — she totters — she falls, — and breathes her life 
away upon the blood-dyed snow. 

A few moments' delay put us in possession of an ample supply of fresh 
meat, — the Indian reserving the robe only as his share. The cow proved 
a most excellent selection, and did honor to the judgment of the hunter. 

As we travelled on, the snow, which scarcely an hour since had first 
attracted our attention, became deeper and deeper, and our progress more 
tedious and difficult. 

From bare ground and comparatively moderate climate, we were fully 
inducted to the region of snow, ice, and winter. The prairie was high and 
undulating. To our left an immense wall of secondary rock surmounted 
a ridge of naked hills, that described in its course the curve of a rainbow, 
enclosing upon three sides a large valley facing the east, — thence, stretch-, 
ing westward and raising higher and higher, hastened to mingle its heads 
among the cloud-capped summits and snows of the neighboring moun- 
tains. 

From a light coating of loose snow our course soon became obstructed 



L'EAU-QUI-COURT.— REMARKS. 75 

by still deepening layers, covered with a thick crust, scarcely strong enough 
to bear our weight, but quite sufficient to wrench and jar us at every step, 
and make our advance threefold tiresome. 

The cold was so intense, we were forced to walk to keep from freezing. 
Our difficulties thickened the farther we progressed. Night closed in upon 
us, and we could no longer distinguish our course. Yet we kept on, in 
hopes of reaching some creek or spring where we might await the coming 
day. 

Slowly, onward, — plunge, plunge, at every step ; — now prostrate at full 
length upon the hard crust, and then again staggering in resistless mimicry 
of drunken men. 

The chill winds sweeping over the dreary expanse pierced us through at 
each whiff, and seemed to penetrate every nerve, and joint, and muscle, as 
if to transform our hearts' blood into icicles. But still it was plunge, plunge 
along ; onward, plunge, fall ; but yet onward ! There is no stopping place 
here, — 'tis push on or die ! 

Thus, travelling for three or four hours, not knowing whither, we came 
finally to the leeward of a high hill. The agreeable change produced by 
the absence of wind, called forth a hearty response. " Camp, ho," was 
echoed upon all sides. But here was no water for ourselves or our animals. 
We must yet go on. Still we lingered — loath to leave the favored spot. 
The Indian, who had been absent for a brief space, now came up, shout- 
ing : 

" Mine, washtasta !" (Water, very good !) 

" Tarkoo mine ?" asked the trader. (What water ?) 

" Mine-loosa. Tunga warkpollo." (Running-water. A large creek.) 

It proved L'eau-qui-court, the stream upon which we had intended to pass 
the night. 

Pushing on, a few moments brought us to its banks, in a deep valley 
covered with snow. A fire was then promptly built from a small quantity 
of wood we had the precaution to take with us from Rawhide, and all 
hands were soon as comfortably conditioned as circumstances would admit. 

A heart)'- supper served to appease the appetites so keenly sharpened by 
a toilsome journey of thirty miles, occupying from sunrise till ten o'clock 
at night. This over, each one cleared for himself a place upon the frozen 
ground, and, spreading down his bed, quickly forgot his cares and sufferings 
in the welcome embrace of sleep. 

L'eau-qui-court, or Running-water, heads in a small lake under the base 
of the first range of Black Hills, and, following an easternly course, empties 
into the Missouri, about one hundred and fifty or two hundred miles above 
Council Bluff. It derives its name from the rapidity of its current, which 
rolls over a pebbly bed with great velocity. 

At this place it is narrow and deep, with steep banks, and not a stick of 
timber is to be found on it, above or below, for twenty miles. At the lake 
where it heads, there is an abundance of timber ; large groves of cotton- 
wood are also found at some distance below our present camp. 

The intermediate country, from Rawhide, is a cold and cheerless expanse 
almost at all seasons of the year. From the commencement of fall to the 
very close of spring, it is subject to frost and snow ; — for what cause, 



76 WHITE RIVER SCENERY. 

it is hard to conjecture. Its surface, though quite elevated, is not 
sufficiently so to make such marked difference in cHmate between it and 
adjoining sections. 

The next day proved cloudy ; we, however, resumed our course which 
led over a rough, tumulous country, covered with snow and darkened by 
occasional clusters of pines. 

Early in the morning our Indians left us and took a nearer route to the 
village. Soon after we became bewildered in the obscurity of the atmos- 
phere, and travelled till night unconscious whether right or wrong. 
Finally, coming to a deep ravine that obstructed further progress, we turned 
to a neighboring grove of pines, at the point of an eminence, and made 
camp. It was a bleak airy place, but by aid of a huge fire of dry pine 
we were quite comfortable, despite a heavy fall of snow during the night. 

With the morning our perplexities were renewed. Directly in front lay 
a broad and impassable ravine, beyond which a high mountain range arose 
to view. vShould we go up or down ? After much debate we decided 
upon the latter, and, bearing northward during the day, struck the head 
of a stream which subsequently proved White river. 

This stream traces its way through a broad valley, enclosed upon either 
Bide by high pine hills. Its banks are studded with thick groves of cotton- 
w^ood, elm, ash, box-elder, and willow, — with nearly all the varieties of 
fruit-bearing shrubs and trees indigenous to the mountains. In the item 
of plums and cherries, it gave evidence of exuberant fecundity. The 
bushes, in many instances, yet bore the dried relics of their burthen, 
as if to tempt the beholder's taste, — while the tall grass and rosebuds,* 
every where attested the summer-verdure and beauty of the valley in 
which they grew. 

The snow that had hitherto impeded our progress, now gradually became 
less as we advanced down the valley, and soon gave place to bare ground. 
Game appeared in great numbers, attracted from the adjoining hills to pass 
the winter in this inviting locality. 

A journey of two days brought us to the site selected for houses, and, 
consequently to a halt, for the present. 

The place was surrounded by wild and romantic scenery. Directly in 
front, upon the opposite side of the creek, arose a perpendicular wall of 
marl and half formed sandstone, towering, stratum above stratum, to a 
height of three or four hundred feet, and overlooking the valley above and 
below, — while further on, a steep hill-side, covered with tall, straight, and 
almost branchless pines, burst upon the view. 

Rearward a gradual acclivity led to a high plateau, some two miles 
broad, coated with long, tall grass, when a ridge of abrupt pine hills in- 
troduced the more distant mountains, witli their rugged sides and frowning 
^ulnmits, — and, higher up, an immense pile of earthy limestone, sur- 

*Ro?ebudi' are found in great quantities in many places, throughout the mountains, 
during the winter, and attain a large nize. I'hey are highly esteemed by many as 
an article of <ood, and have not unfrequenlly been the means of preserving life in cases 
of extreme hunger and lack of other eatables. 



A THIEF PUNISHED. 77 

mounting a wing of hills as it approached the river, presented a medley of 
curious and fantastic shapes, — objects alike of amusement and wonder- 
One of the latter, denominated the " Devil's Tea-pot," exhibited exter- 
nally an almost perfect facsimile of that kind of vessel. It was of gigantic 
proportions, — being one hundred feet high, and, occupying a conspicuous 
position, may be seen for a distance of many miles. 

The Indians from a near village, immediately upon our arrival, came 
flocking around for the threefold purpose of begging, trading and stealing ; 
and, from this forward, we rarely experienced an interval free from their 
anoyance. 

Prompt arrangements were here commenced for building a store room 
and trading house ; — but meanwhile, we were forced to keep strict guard 
both night and day. 

Two braves were secured to " act soldier," and assist in keeping the 
thieving propensities of their people in check. Yet, notwithstanding the 
united vigilance of all hands, the latter would frequently perpetrate their 
petit larcenies under our very eyes, without being detected in the act, — 
so adroit were they at the busmess. An instance of this kind happening to 
myself is perhaps worth relating. 

Previously to the erection of houses, we were necessitated to sleep in the 
open air. Wearied by the lateness of the hour, one night I spread down 
my couch by the camp-fire, with the intention of retiring. The weather 
being very cold, I had scarcely turned to warm myself, when a backward 
glance revealed the sudden disappearance of my sleeping appendages — 
robes blankets and all ! 

Informing the trader of my mishap, and catching a glimpse of the thief 
as he dodged past a knot of Indians at the further extremity of the camp, gun 
in hand, I started after the nimble lark ; but the thick bushes and darkness 
soon shut him from view and left me in fruitless pursuit. 

At length, relinquishing the hope of ever regaining the stolen articles, 
and vexed at the impious savage, who, instead of obeying the Scripture in- 
junction of "take up thy bed and ivalk,'''' had snatched my bed and run! I 
returned to camp. Here I was shown a robe, by the trader, that had been 
brought in scarcely a minute beiore and offered in barter for liquor ; — it 
was one of the two I had lost. 

The bearer was now promply charged as being accessory to the theft. 
This he stoutly denied, alleging that the robe had been given him by an- 
other Indian for the purpose he had offered it. 

Upon this the affair was referred to our soldiers, who, after much parley- 
ing and no little threatening, succeeded in causing him to return the mis- 
sing articles. The fellow then demanded of me a cup of liquor as pay for 
bringing them back. Mustering to my aid a few words of Sioux, I rephed: 
" Mea warche yau wechacha ceicha, opata-ne ha warktash-ne coga ! — I 
neither like bad men, nor will I pay for doing bad." 

Marto-nazher, (Standing Bear,) one of our soldiers, on hearing my an- 
swer, arose and addressed the crowd in an earnest and impressive manner. 
He was grieved on account of the many depredations continually commit- 
ted by his people upon the property of the whites. It is wrong — very 
wrong, said he, to conduct in this manner ; — if such wickedness is allow- 



INDIAN SOLDIERS. 

ed, the whites will abandon the country. Whites do not steal from us. — 
Something must be done — an example must be had — the perpetrators 
of these outrages must be punished. 

"You, Schena-sarpah," he continued, throwing his piercing glance full 
upon the chop-fallen culprit, who hung his head for shame at being caught 
in a manner so little to his credit, " Aye, you Scena-sarpah do carry a 
bow and arrows ; you call yourself a brave ; and yet you steal from our 
friends, the pale-faces ! 

" Do brave men steal from their friends ? No ! Schena-sarpah should 
alone steal from his enemies, if he be a brave man and a soldier. 

" Who are they that steal from their friends ? Squaws and children, as 
Schena-sarpah well knows. Then he is no better than they ! Why 
should he carry a bow ? Why go to war, or follow the chase ? Squaws 
and children do neither. None but brave men go to war — none but they 
should follow the chase. 

" Schena-sarpa needs no bow. Let him go to his lodge. There let him 
make robes and moccasins for braves, and take care of children with 
squaws, — for such should be his occupation, and only such should be his 
companions !" 

So saying, he approached the unresisting thief, and, taking from him his 
bow, arrows, and panther-skin quiver, resumed his seat. Then, breaking 
the arrows and shooting them away, one by one, among the trees, he snap- 
ped the bow across his knee and threw it into the fire. The bright flame 
from the burning bow had barely died away, when the quiver was consign- 
ed to the same iate. As the last fragments of the effeminate's weapons 
mouldered to ashes, a smile of satisfaction played upon the countenance of 
the Standing Bear, at the thought of having avenged the wrongs of the 
white man. 

And, truly, this was an infliction of summary punishment. The amount 
of property destroyed exceeded the value of a horse, and, in the estimation 
of an Indian, constitutes a man's chief wealth. The offender was thus 
not only left disarmed by the operation, but made poor, and reduced to a 
level with the squaws and children to whom he was set apart. He be- 
moaned his loss most piteously, and started for his lodge, bellowing like a 
motherless calf. 

Another instance of theft occurred soon after, almost as remarkable. A 
robe was stolen from off one of our party, while he was asleep, and barter- 
ed for whiskey, without his knowing it ! 

Our Indian soldiers were of great service in conducting the trade. If 
any difficulty occurred, they were always at hand to assist in its adjustment, 
and preserve order and quiet so far as lay in their power. If any visitor 
became troublesome, they at once ordered him to his lodge, and enforced 
their commands in case of resistance. 

Every trader is necessitated to employ one or more braves to assist him 
in his business at the villages. An Indian considers it a great honor thus 
to receive the confidence of a white man and " act soldier " for him, as he 
denominates it. Some of them have not unfrequently gone so far as to 
kill those of their people who proved guilty of misusing the traders by 
whom they were employed. 



OUTRAGEOUS CONDUCT. 79 

They exercise a kind of supervisory office in the management of affairs 
which could not well be dipensed with, — and very often have the lives of 
traders been preserved by the judgment and discretion of these men. 

Dec. 25th. Christmas finds us in our new residence, which, with the ex- 
ception of a chimney, is now completed. 

This great annual festival is observed with all the exhilarating hilarity 
and good cheer that circumstances will allow. Several little extras for 
the occasion have been procured from the Indians, which prove quite whole- 
some and pleasant-tasted. One of these, called washena, consists of 
dried meat pulverized and mixed with marrow ; another is a preparation 
of cherries, preserved when first picked by pounding and sun-drying them, 
(they are served by mixing them with bouillie, or the liquor of fresh-boiled 
meat, thus giving to it an agreeable winish taste ;) a third is marrow-fat, 
an article in many respects superior to butter ; and, lastly, we obtained a 
kind of flour made from the poinme blanc, (white apple,) answering very 
well as a substitute for that of grain. 

The above assortment, with a small supply of sugar and coflTee, as well as 
several other dainties variously prepared, affords an excellent dinner, — and, 
though different in kind, by no means inferior in quality to the generalit} 
of dinners for which the day is noted in more civilized communities. 

The day following our turbulent neighbors were augmented in num- 
ber by the accession of another village of Brules, and Marto-cogershne, of 
whom I have spoken upon a former occasion, became with his family our 
constant annoyance. 

Visiting us at one time, squaws and all — as was his daily custom — to 
beg liquor, (which, some way or other, he always obtained,) the brother of 
our tormentor demanded a quantity of that article to take with him to his 
lodge. This, after many sharp words, w^as offered; but, having no vessel 
for its conveyance, he extended his demands to a kettle, — which, of course, 
was refused ; whereupon he threatened vengeance unless both were forth- 
coming upon the mocosco,* (prairie,) and required still farther the gift of 
a pair of moccasins. 

Our trader replied, " The liquor is for you, and here are the moccasins, 
(pulling off his own and passing them to him,) but the kettle you cannot 
have." 

The affair thus ended for the present, and the modest beggar retired to 
his lodge. The next morning, however, two of our horses were found 
pierced with arrows, and so badly, that they died soon after. 

At another time, Marto-cogershne became so enraged at being refused a 
whole keg of liquor " on the prairie," he rushed upon the trader with his 
butcher-knife to kill him. What would have been the result, it is hard to 
tell, had I not stayed the descending weapon by seizing the fellow's arm. 
Here our soldiers interfered and put him out of the house, — closing the 
door upon him. The exasperated savage then commenced shooting upon 
us through the door ; — two Indian boys passing in the interval also furnish- 

* Tliis expression implies the bestowment of anything as a free gift. It is also used 
to denote a random way of speaking with regard to truth. 



80 INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS. 

ed marks for his gun, and not long subsequently a mule and an ox belong- 
ing to us fell to appease his insulted dignity. 

However, the chef cfoiivre of his rascality was exhibited in stealing our 
whole cavallard* consisting of ten head of horses and mules, which he 
drove into the mountains. We were compelled to give a quantity of liquor 
and ammunition, two blankets, and several other articles before we could 
secure their return. 

From the movement of things, he was evidently instigated by the Ameri- 
can Fur Company traders to do us all the mischief in his power. Certain 
it is, he was their regular " soldier," and received from them numerous 
presents in consideration of his good conduct. 

The employees of this company are frequently guilty of such disgrace- 
ful conduct. In connection w4th this conclusion I might cite instance 
upon instance, and string out a volume of proof, were it necessary. 

Soon after Christmas we commenced erecting our chimney. The ma- 
terials for it were procured from an adjoining bank. While engaged in 
quarrying them, the operator came to a crevice filled with a strange 
fleshy substance, coiled together like the folds of a huge rope. " Hallo !" 
cried he, with astonishment, "here's the Devil, himself!" 

The extraordinary announcement brought all hands to the spot to get a 
peep at •' Old Nick," and the Indians, also, witnessing the unusual conuno- 
tion, came hurrying up to learn its cause. 

The result proved, that, if not the Devil, it was his great prototype, — it 
was that " Old Serpent," with all his progeny. 

By means of a stick, thirty-six large snakes were exposed to view, — 
some of them six feet in length. They w^ere in a torpid state, the result 
of the severe cold of winter. 

Having drawn them out, one by one, it was proposed to treat them to a 
warm bath. Accordingly, after placing them in a hole for the purpose, a 
keetle of scalding water was thrown upon them. The vivifying effects of 
this unwonted application restored them to a sudden animation, when, 
wriggling and twisting for a few moments in all the contortions of agony, 
they at last tacitly curled up and expired. 

The Indians were much shocked on seeing this, and expressed their 
astonishment at our reckless presumption by their deeply accented " tula," 
— turning away from the spot with evident emotions of terror. 
y On inquiring the cause, I learned in answer, that the various Indian 
tribes in the vicinity of the mountains are accustomed to regard the snake 
with a kind of superstitious veneration, and consider the act of killing it 
a sure harbinger of calamity. In the observance of this singular 
notion, they are scrupulously exact ; — but, in despite of repeated inquries, 
I have been unable to obtain the reasons upon which the whim is based. 

These tribes cherish many religious tenets, rites, and customs, — some 
general and others peculiar only to individuals, 

* This is a mountain phrase of Spanish origin, (cavellardo,) and means a band of 
horses or mules. 



THEOLOGICAL NOTIONS. 81 

An Indian will never pronounce the name of the Big Medicine, or Great 
Spirit, other than in a reverential manner, nor upon trival occasions. 

This being is considered the Great Superintendent of all things, whose 
power sustains the universe,---causing day and night with the varying 
seasons, — making the grass to grow, the water to run, and the rains to fall, 
for the good of man and beast. 

Some imagine He lives in the sun ; others, in the air ; others, in the 
ground ; and others in the immensity of His works. 

The animal or thing possessed of wonderful or extraordinary powers, 
such as their ignorance ascribes to be the attributes of the Supreme 
Being, they look upon as endowed with a greater or less share of His 
presence, and venerate it accordingly. Thus, the sun, fire, lightning, 
thunder, fountains of peculiar medicinal qualities, extraordinary locahties, 
and various other things are alike objects of religious regard. 

Although their theological sentiments are generally the same, the man- 
ner of showing their respect for this Overruling Providence differs with 
different tribes, families, and even persons. For instance, — some tribes 
shave their heads in token of their submission to Him. Others mark 
themselves for His own by some peculiar manner of cutting their ears 
for the reception of ornaments ; — while others burn their thighs, tattoo 
their breasts, scar their arms, or flatten the heads of infants, for a like 
purpose. 

The instrument, with which such ceremonies are performed, is invariably 
thrown away. In case of cutting the ears of an infant, the gift bestowed 
upon the operator is regarded as indicative of its success during life ; — 
parents have been known to give as high as ten horses on like occasions. 

Some make indelible marks of a blue color upon their chins and fore- 
heads, — or the figures of lizards, snakes, arrows, or other objects upon 
their arms. 

Some show their reverence in the peculiar manner of receiving the pipe 
and passing it to another ; — others by certain ceremonies before smoking, — 
thus, pointing the pipe- stem to the zenith, then towards the ground, then 
horizontally upon either side, as if saying, " Oh thou, whose habitation is 
immensity, accept this as the willing tribute of homage from thy child." 

They will never allow a bone of any kind to be broken within their 
lodges, and express great consternation and alarm at such an occurrence. 
Some will not permit a stick of wood to be struck with a knife or other 
edged tool while burning, and others exhibit their devotion by some pe- 
culiarity in the structure of their lodges, or the mode of placing their 
medicine-bags, the length and shape of their arrows, their fasliion of hair- 
dressing, and various minutiee of like character. 

Others again will never eat unless they bestow the first mouthful as 
an offering to the prairie, — believing that, as the prairie affords water, 
grass, and game, for the good of the red man, it is the fullest embodyment 
of the Essence of Good ; therefore, in the observance of this practice, they 
not only acknowledge their faith in the existence of the Great Spirit, but 
set apart the first of their substance as test of their piety. 

Their ideas of the existence of a principle, or being, wno is the author 
and prompter of evil, are crude and indefinite. 

They are ready to acknowledge its reality, but seem to consider its per- 
6 



82 DANGERS OF THE LIQUOR TRADE. 

son more manifest in man himself than any other creature or thing. 
Their enemies they esteem as the more special incarnation of this prin* 
ciple, and next to them they regard a v\ orthless, mean, and cowardly indi- 
vidual of their own people. They also look upon creatures of an injurious 
and hurtful nature, as the greater or less impersonation of evil. 

Their notions of right and wrong are equally simple. 

It is right to be brave, to do good to friends, to relieve the needy, to feed 
the hungry, and to worship the Great Spirit, — these are acts of general 
morality. There are various other duties taught by their code relative to 
intercourse with each other, — to children and parents, husbands and wives, 
deference to age, chastity etc., the performance of which is essential to 
virtue. 

The line of demarkation between virtue and vice is yet more simple and 
comprehensive ; — every thing derelict of right is wrong. 

1 shall recur to several points, connected with the foregoing subjects, in 
another place. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Dangers connected with the Uquor trade. — Difficuhy with Bull Eagle. — Scenes of 
bloodshed and horror.— Cheating in the fur trade.— How the red man becomes 
tutored in vice.---A cliief's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. — Indian mode 
of courtship and marriage.— Squaws an article of traffic— Divorce.— Plurality oi 
wives. 

The difficulty and danger, not to say crime and bloodshed, connected 
with the illicit trade in alcohol, as conducted among our western Indians, 
is great and imminent. To illustrate this point, I need only to place before 
the reader a summary of facts which occurred, many of them under my 
own observation, during the winter of 1842. 

Soon after our arrival at White river a man was sent to a neighboring 
village with a keg of diluted alcohol, for the purpose of barter. The 
Indians, feeling more disposed to drink than pay for it, demanded the keg 
as a gift " on the prairie." This was refused. They threatened— a fight 
ensued, (the soldiers and trader defending the keg and the Indians trying 
to take it.) Weapons were used, and the result was, both soldiers and 
trader were beaten off, — the latter, after being dragged through the lodge- 
fire three or four times, narrowly escaped with his life. 

A party of Indians under the excitement of strong drink, attacked and 
took a trading house of the American Fur Company, near by, — robbing it 
of both liquor and goods. 

Two parties in the Fur Company's employ, from different posts, met at 
a neighboring village, — one having goods and the other alcohol. The 
Indians, as usual, got drunk, and commenced a fight among themselves ; — 
because the goods-trader happened to be in the lodge of one of the weaker 
party, they attacked him. He was compelled to flee, and barely escaped 
with his life through the friendly interference of the squaws. His goods 



SCENES OF BLOODSHED AND HORROR. 83 

were all stolen ;--while one of the Indians who defended him was brutally 
murdered, and several others wounded. 

Not long afterwards, our trader was shot at, three or four times, while 
engaged in this dangerous traffic, and one of his soldiers severely wounded. 

About the same time, the trader of another company received a deep 
stab, while dealing out the vile trash, and would have been killed but for 
the energetic efforts of his soldiers. 

Ptevioasly to the above, the Indians seized upon a trader and compelled 
him to stand over a hot fire until he was nearly roasted aUve, — meanwhile, 
helping themselves to his stock in hand. 

Soon after, two warriors came to trade for a blanket at our post, — one 
of whom was drunk. While being waited upon, the latter drew his knife 
and was in the very act of stabbing the unsuspecting clerk, as I caught his 
wrist and arrested the blow. 

At another time, as our trader was standing surrounded by us all, he was 
shot at by a drunken Indian, who, by the merest accident, missed his object. 

Again, one night a party of drunken Indians undertook to fire the house 
in order to consume us alive, but were providentially prevented, owing to 
its being constructed of green pine logs. 

The most dangerous time I experienced during the winter was near the 
close of it. An "Indian employed as our soldier, became crazed upon the 
drugged liquor of the American Fur Company, and made his appearance 
before us in a high state of excitement. This fellow had been denominated 
by his people the Bull Eagle, (Tahtunga-mobellu,) and was a chief, — 
highly esteemed as a medicine-man, and regarded as the greatest brave in 
the Sioux nation. He was a tall, well-made, noble-looking person — and, — 
such eyes ! I never saw the hke planted beneath the brows of any otlior 
mortal. They glared like lightning, and, as they fell upon the individual 
to whom directed, seemed to penetrate the very soul and read the embryo 
thoughts of his heart. 

Through the misrepresentations of those in the interest of the Fur Com- 
pany, he tancied himself misused by our trader, and came determined on re- 
venge. Arms in hand and stripped for the contest, accompanied by his wife 
and two or three friends, he confronted us, — his strange appearance told 
for what. In the fury of passion his every look gave evidence of the raging 
demon within. 

Here, lest he should be misunderstood, he premised by a full statement of 
his grievances. They w^ere many, but the chief of them was, that our 
trader had employed another to "act soldier" in his stead, while he was too 
drunk to perform the duties of that appointment. " I have been dressed* 
as a soldier," said he, " to be laughed at, and now Peazeezeef must die !" 

The room was full of Indians, and one of them, an old man, exclaimed : 

" When Peazeezee dies, let me go under,| — I must live no longer !" 

* Previously, he had been presented with a citizen's dress to spcure liim for lh« 
company's interest. 

t Yellow-hair. The Indian name for our trader. 

I This term implies death, or the act of dying. • 



84 EFFECTS OF DRUNKENNESS. 

" Is this your love for the pale-face ?" returned the infuriated chieftain. 
"Then die you first!" 

Upon this, seizing the defenceless old man, he drew his knife and made 
a heart-thrust. The intended victim, however, grasped the descending 
blade in his bare hand and arrested its course — but his fingers were 
nearly severed in so doing. Here the wife of Bull Eagle rushed up to 
her husband and seized him by both arms, while others interfered, and the 
scene of conflict was removed from the apartment to the space in front. 

Now was a general fight. The women and children, crying for terror, 
ran about in the utmost confusion and dismay, — while raving combatants 
yelled and whooped, as knives, clubs, and tomahawks were busily deahng 
wounds and scattering blood. 

Soon after, the parties retired to their village, and the melee ended with 
only six wounded. 

In a brief interval the Bull Eagle again returned, accompanied by his 
wife, — the latter earnestly endeavoring to dissuade him from his purpose. 

A shot was his first salute, on entering the door, which a timely thrust 
from the squaw averted from its object. The kind-hearted creature then 
grasped the bow. Relinquishing it in her hands, the madman made a pass 
at the trader with his tomahawk, — this blow was dodged, and the heroine, 
rushing between the two, prevented its repetition. Dropping his tomahawk, 
he then fell upon the object of his hatred, butcher-knife in hand. 

But here he found himself in the firm grasp of several friendly Indians, 
by whom he was borne from the room. 

This state of aflTairs was the signal for another engagement between 
Bull Eagle, at the head of his partizans, aud the friends of the whites, — 
more desperate and bloody than the former. With great difficulty we re- 
tained our arms from the forcible grasp of the contending factions. This, 
to us, was a moment fraught with extreme peril — not knowing friend from 
foe, and instantly apprehensive of the knives and arrows of the avengeful 
throng. It was, indeed, a moment when the agony of suspense quivered 
with thrilling intensity upon every nerve, and vibrated in every sinew. To 
fight, would have been a relief. But, whom should we fight? It might have 
been our best friends — for who could discriminate ? The death of one 
connected with either party, at our hands, would have proved the signal for 
our instant slaughter. Both would have united to exterminate us, — and, 
beset as we were, upon all sides, prudence dictated a strict nutrality. 
Sometimes fifteen or twenty would be struggling for our arms at once, — 
a strong temptation, as the reader may rest assured, for us to use them in 
self-defence. 

Meanwhile the conflict continued with unabated fury. Several attempts 
were made upon the life of Bull Eagle, but without success. Two were 
killed and others wounded, when a final stop was put to the further effusion 
of blood by the withdrawal of the chieftan to his lodge. 

In about an hour subsequent, he returned for tiie second time, — but 
reason had now resumed her sway, and he came to apologize for his bad 
conduct. Calling our trader his " very good, liis best friend," he cried for 
grief that he had attempted to kill him. He averred that liquor had made 
him a fool, and said he should never cease to regret the great wicked- 
ness he had thought of doing to his " best friend." Ever after this affair, 



CHEATING. 85 

he remained our steadfast friend, and presented our trader with six super- 
fine robes, in evidence of the sincerity of his repentance. 

The foregoing results of this infamous traffic, are only a few of the 
many instances of like nature I might cite, in proof of its imminent danger 
to those engaged in its prosecution; — but this is not the darkest part of the 
picture. There are yet scenes in reserve, more bloody and dreadful than 
those above recited, though not, perhaps, quite as perilous to the whites 
themselves. They all occurred in the winter of 1842, during the brief 
period of two months, and resulted immediately from the sale of liquor. 

I shall not enter into details, but content myself by laying before the 
reader a mere synopsis of facts. 

In November, the American Fur Company, from Fort John, sent a 
quantity of their drugged liquor to an Indian village, on Chugwater, as a 
gift, for the purpose of preventing the sale of that article by their competi- 
tors in trade. The consequence was, the poor creatures all got drunk, and 
a fight ensued, which ended in the death of two head chiefs. Bull Bear and 
Yellow Lodge, and six of their friends, — besides the wounding of fourteen 
others, who took part in the affray. 

Soon after, an affair occurred from the same cause, resulting in the 
death of three. 

About the same time, another of like nature took place in the Chyenne 
village, and three more v/ere killed. 

Several were also killed, in the interval, in the vicinity of the Chyenne and 
Missouri rivers, by their friends and companions, while under the madden- 
ing influence of intoxicating drink, — the precise number is not known. 

The very last trade at the close of the season, produced its usual deeds 
of bloodshed and murder. Two Indians were killed, and the person who 
sold to them the vile article narrowly escaped with his life. 

I might go on still further with the sickening sketch ; but, as enough has 
already been said to shock the sensibilities of the reader, in endeavoring to 
afford him some idea of the enormities and untold horrors connected with 
this criminal traffic, I must forbear. 

The liquor used in this business, is generally third or fourth proof whiskey, 
which, after being diluted by a mixture of three parts water, is sold to the 
Indians at the exorbitant rate of three cups per robe, — the cups usually 
holding about three gills each. 

But, notwithstanding the above unconscionable price, a large share of the 
profits result from the ingenious roguery of those conducting the trade. 

Sometimes the measuring-cup is not more than half full ; — then, again, 
the act of measuring is little other than mere feint, (the purchaser receiv- 
ing not one fourth the quantity paid for.) 

When he becomes so intoxicated as to be unable to distinguish the dif!er- 
ence between water and liquor, (a thing not rare,) the former is passod off 
upon him as the genuine article. 

Another mode of cheating is, by holding the cup in such a manner that 
the two front fingers occupy a place upon the inside, and thus save to the 
trader nearly a gill at each filling. 

Some have two cups, (one of the usual size, and the other less,) which 



86 A CHIEF'S DAUGHTER. 

are so exchanged as to induce the purchaser to beheve he is obtaining a 
third more than he actually receives ; and others, yet more cunning, fill the 
measure half full of tallow and deal out the liquor from off it, — the witless 
dupe, not thinking to examine the bottom, supposes he receives the requi- 
site quantity. 

No wonder the Indian, with such examples before him, learns to hate the 
white man, and despise and abhor his boasted civilization. No wonder he 
looks with an eye of suspicion, alike upon his religion and his learning, 
and revolts at the thought of either, as the ingenious devices of scientific 
roguery. He is taught all the white man's vices before he learns any of 
his virtues. The emissaries of Satan, by their untiring efforts, effectually 
stop his ears, blind his eyes, and harden his heart, ere yet the heralds of 
the Gospel set foot upon his soil, to tell him of the blessings of Christianity, 
and the way to happiness and to heaven. 

If the Indian is bad, it is because the white man has made him so. Un- 
contaminated by intercourse with the ofl^scourings of civilization, who come 
to cheat and despoil him of his property, and deprive him of his comforts, 
you find him quite a different being. You find him brave, generous, and 
hospitable, as well as possessed of many exemplary moral qualities. If he 
is a savage, he might, in many respects, prove a safe and worthy teacher 
to those who pride themselves upon a more enlightened education. 

He has a heart instinctive of more genuine good feehng than his white 
neighbor — a soul of more firm integrity — a spirit of more unyielding inde- 
pendence. Place the white man in his condition, divested of all the re- 
straints of law, and unacquainted with the learning and arts of civilized 
life— surrounded by all the associations of the savage state—and the In- 
dian, by comparison, will then exhibit, in a more striking light, that innate 
superiority he in reality possesses. 

No : The Indian should not be despised. He holds weighty claims upon 
our pity, our compassion, and our respect, — but never should he be 
despised. 

Old Bull Tail, of whom I had occasion to speak in a former chapter, 
having forgotten the wholesome sentiments he advanced at the time refer- 
red to, took it into his head to have a spree. But, as he was not possessed 
of the means to obtain the wherewith, he adopted a somewhat novel sub- 
stitute. 

He had an only daughter, — and she was handsome — the pride of her 
family and the boast of her village. She was lovely, and all the high qual- 
ities of a princess were exhibited in her deportment. But, Bull Tail must 
drink ; why not give his daughter to the Yellow-hair and receive from him 
a keg of liquor as a marriage present ? 

This thought was acted out, and one morning the old chief came to us, 
followed by his daughter, who, aware of her father's designs, gave vent to 
her grief in a flood of tears. 

As he entered the door, our trader addressed him : 

Trader. Bull Tail is welcome to the lodge of the Long-knife ; — but, 
why is his daughter, the pride of his heart, bathed in tears ? It pains me 
that one so beautiful should weep. 



INDIAN MODE OF COURTSHIP. 87 

Bull Tail. Chintzille is a foolish girl. Her father loves her, and there- 
fore she cries. 

Trader. The contrary should prove a greater cause for grief! 

Bull Tail. The Yellow-hair speaks well, and truth only falls from his 
lips. 

Trader. How, then, can she sorrow ? Bid her speak and tell me, that 
I may whisper in her ear words of comfort. 

BulVTail. Nay, pale-face; but I will tell thee. Bull Tail loves his 
daughter much — very much ; he loves the Yellow-hair much ! — he loves 
them both, very much. The Great Spirit has put the thought into his mind 
that both might be alike his children ; then would his heart leap for joy at 
the twice-spoken name of father ! 

Trader. What do I hear ? I know not the meaning of thy words. 

Bull Tail. Sure, pale-face, thou art slow to understand ! Bull Tail 
would give his daughter to the Yellow-hair, — for who like him is so worthy 
to take her to his lodge ? Bull Tail has for a long time called the pale- 
face his brother, and now he would claim the Yellow-hair as his son. 
Loves he not Chintzille ? 

Trader. Were I to deny my joy at the words of Bull Tail, my tongue 
would lie ! The Yellow-hair has no wife, and who, like the lovely Chintz- 
ille, is so worthy that he should take her to his bosom ? How could he 
ever show his gratitude to her noble father ! 

Bull Tail. The gift is free, and Bull Tail will be honored in its accept- 
ance, — his friends will all be glad with him. But, that they may bless the 
Yellow-hair, let him fill up the hollow-wood * with fire-water, and Bull 
Tail will take it to his lodge ; — then the maiden shall be thine. 

Trader. But, Chintzille grieves, — she loves not the Yellow-hair! 

Bull Tail. Chintzille is foolish. Let the Yellow-hair measure the 
fire-water and she shall be thine ! 

Trader. Nay, but the Yellow-hair may not do this. Chintzille should 
never be the wife of him she loves not ! 

The old man continued to plead for some time, in order to bring to a suc- 
cessful issue the negotiation by which he hoped to "wet his whistle" and 
gain a son-in-law, — but all to no purpose. Our trader could not be persua- 
ded to form an alliance so entangling upon any such terms, and the chief- 
tain left with all the lineaments of disappointment and chagrin depicted upon 
his countenance. 

The mode of marriage prevalent among the mountain and prairie tribes 
would seem rather strange and somewhat unfair to the better informed of 
civilized communities. 

The lady has little to say or do in the business. When an Indian takes 
it into his head to get married and meets with the squaw suiting his fancy, 
he wastes no time in useless courtship, but hastens to Her father and de- 
mands of him to know how much he loves his daughter and what gift of 
horses will make his heart rejoice in a son-in-law ? 

The father, after consulting with his daughter and her mother, states the 

*Keg. 



POLYGAMY. 

terms. If these prove agreeable to the suitor, he immediately accepts 
Uicm, and the twain " become one flesh " without further ceremony. 

In case the woman has no father, her eldest brother fills his place, — and 
if she have neither father nor brother, her next nearest relative assumes 
the responsibility of bestowing her in marriage. 

If she be the eldest daughter, and has unmarried sisters, the bridegroom 
becomes equally entitled to them, and is looked upon as their common hus- 
band. 

The first year succeeding this new relation, the bride's family consider 
all the horses and other valuables of the new^-made husband as their own ; 
the second year he is permitted to retain his personal property for the use 
of himself and wife ; — but the third year he enjoys an equal right with his 
relatives to everything in their possession. 

The decision of parents in the bestowment of a daughter in marriage is 
generally controlled by the largeness of the amount offered ; thus showing 
that civilized life is not the only condition in which individuals are some- 
times governed by sordid motives in pronouncing upon questions of such 
vital importance to the welfare of others. 

The female is the only party upon whom the marriage contract is con- 
sidered binding. 

The man may sunder it at any time suiting his convenience or caprice. 
He has the power, even, to dispose of his wife to another, or, at a mere 
word, to absolve himself from all obligation to her. In case of the latter, 
the discarded one returns to her father's lodge, — ready again to test the re- 
alities of this uncertain relationship, whenever an opportunity presents it- 
self meeting with the approval of those who assume to make barter of 
her affections and person. 

A woman, to be happy in this state of society, should never indulge in 
that fancied passion, pictured in such glowing colors by crack-brained 
poets and novel-writers, called love ; — or, if she has the assurance to do 
otherwise, it should be of that more versatile and accommodating order, so 
often exhibited in more refined circles, which may be reclaimed and trans- 
ferred as interest or circumstances suggest. Her affections are not at her 
own disposal, and, to render life tolerable, slie must learn to love only as 
she is loved, and to love herself above all others. 

Next to horses, women constitute an Indian's chief wealth. This cir- 
cumstance not unfrequently results in one individual appropriating to 
himself six or eight. 

The squaw is compelled to dress robes and skins, make moccasins, 
cure and take care of meat, attend to the horses, procure fire-wood, and 
perform sundry other little drudgeries that an Indian will not do. 
Through her he becomes possessed of the means of procuring from the 
whites such articles as his necessities or fancy may require. A plurality 
of wives with him, therefore, is more a matter of economy than other- 
wise. 



89 



CHAPTER X. 

Tahtunga-egoniska. — High gaming.— Weur-sena WarkpoUo, a strange story.— 
Tlie Death Song, a tale of love. — 3Iedicme-men. — Extraordinary performance of 
Tahtunga-mobellu. — Wonderful feats of jugglery. 

Among our daily visitors was Tahtunga-egoniska, a head chief of the 
Brule village. 

Years had bleached his locks with their taming frosts and taught him 
self-government. Well disposed as a man, he never became a participant 
in those disgusting scenes of intoxication that almost continually transpir- 
ed around us. He was a mere looker on — a morahzer ; and, as he witness- 
ed the blameworthy conduct of his people, an ill-suppressed sigh was fre- 
quently audible, and the inward workings of regret were plainly defined 
upon his countenance. Melancholy too had left her traces upon him, and, 
as he sat day by day in gloomy silence, he seemed the very impersonation 
of grief. 

VVhenever the throng dispersed for a few moments, he would improve 
the opportunity for conversation with us ; for in the benevolence of his heart 
he loved the whites, and was greatly pained at the injuries and injustice it 
was so often their lot to endure. 

But he had a story of his own to tell ; it w^as a tale of affliction — a stab 
at the best feelings of a father's heart ! And, by whom ? By the very 
whites he loved ! Aye, by the very men whose business it was to degrade 
his people and ruin them by the contaminating effects of an unhallowed 
intercourse ! 

Six months had scarcely yet passed since the old chief had been called to 
mourn his youthful hope, and the pride and joy of his declining years — his 
first-born son ! And that son had fallen by the hand of the white man ! 

Still, the sorrow-stricken father harbored no thought of revenge ; he 
sought nothing for himself save the locks of that son, that he might hang 
them within his lodge, and gaze upon them and weep ! 

His simple tale was so touching in its nature it served to enlist the deep 
sympathies of our hearts. We began to regard him with much deference, 
and felt quite at home in his company. He would frequently entertain us 
with his anecdotes as occasions suggested, and at such times he invaria- 
bly proved both agreeable and communicative. 

The history of his own life, too, was far from uninteresting. He was 
the only one of the Brule chiefs, then living, who had signed the first 
treaty with the whites, since which he had ever observed its stipulations 
with scrupulous exactness, and still carefully retained a silver medal be- 
stowed upon him by the Government agent at that time. 

Some of his stories were garbed with a strange romance, and though 
they may appear foreign to truth in many respects, I cannot resist the 
temptation of presenting a few of them to the reader. 



90 HIGH GAMING. 

One day, several Indians had betted largely iipon a "game of hand;"* 
this called forth from the old man the following story : 

" When a young man I delighted in war, and seldom did a party of our 
people visit the enemy that included me not with its number. These 
scars tell where I stood when arrows flew thick — hastening to spill the 
blood of the brave. 

" Rarely did we return empty-handed from the foeman's land — without 
horses to ride or scalps to dance. Yet, at times we came back like fools, 
and were ashamed to appear at the soldiers' feasts. 

" One of these times I well recollect, and I will tell of it to my white 
children, that they also may remember it. 

" We were proceeding against the Crows, and, like experienced warri- 
ors, had sent our spy in advance to look for the enemy. Hurrying on, in 
momentary expectation of a conflict, the stout hearts of our braves were 
appalled by his return without robe or arms, and scalpless— and with a 
face suflused in blood. 

" This was his story : The enemy, aware of our approach, were awaiting 
us in great numbers. Encountering their scouts, he had been robbed and 
scalped, and left f jr dead. In this situation he lay till darkness shut down 
upon the mountain and the night-breeze gave him strength to meet us and 
advise our speedy return. 

" Believing the strange tale, we hastened to revisit our lodges, and be 
laughed at. 

" Three moons sped, and we again penetrated the land of the foemen. 
The scalpless warrior, far in advance of the main party, once more dis- 
charged the duties of a spy. 

" This time a whoop of triumph announced the result of his mission, 
as he made his appearance with the scalps of two, waving from his spear. 

" He tarried not to relate his adventure, but urged us instantly onward. 
Following him, we were led to the enemy ; — we fought and were victo- 
rious. 

" Among the slain was one whose scalp was wanting. Who has done 
this ? asked the wondering braves. But none answered. Our spy, smi- 
ling, at length broke silence : 

" ' Behind yon hill,' said he, ' a fountain chants melody fit for warriors' 
ears,— let's to it, that we may drink.' 

" Following his direction, he led to a silvery spring overhung by crags 
and shaded by cottonwoods. 

" ' Drink, warriors,' he exclaimed ; when, withdrawing abruptly, he soon 
returned, and with the arms and robe which were his own in other days. 

" Warriors,' resumed the spy : 'you wondered at my mishap, and 
lamented my hard lot v/hen last we visited the Crewman's country ; — you 
wondered at the condition of one among the recent slain, and asked for a 
reason; — and, doubtless, you wonder still more that I now stand before 

* This is a common game with the mountain Indians. It is commenced by one of the 
players who encloses a gravel-stone or a bullet in the curve of his two liands by pla- 
cing the palms together, then, after sundry tosts and evolutions, suddenly parting 
them. If the opposing party Ls shrewd enough to guess in wluch liand the stone is 
retained, he wins ; if not not, he loses. Large amounts are often wagered upon the 
lesult of this play. 



A STRANGE STORY. 91 

you bearing the store of which I was deprived ! — and fain you would know 
in what manner I obtained the hair of two. 

'"Three times has the night-queen turned her full face to smile upon the 
prowess of Lacota arms, since at this very spot I met an enemy. We 
rushed towards each other for the attack. 'Twas then he cried : 

" ' Are we not both braves ? why should we fight ? When our people 
meet in the fray, then may we join arms, — till then, a truce.' 

" ' To this I replied, 

" ' Says Crowman peace ? — then, be there peace.' 

" ' Thus said, we shook hands and sat down by the fountain. 

" ' Willing to amuse the foe, I gathered a pebble and proposed a game 
of hand. The challenge was accepted, and we played, — first, arrow against 
arrow, then bow against bow, robe against robe, and scalp against scalp. 

" ' I was unsuccessful and lost all, — arrow, bow, robe, and scalp. I gave 
up all, but with the extorted promise that we should here meet again for 
another trial of skill. 

" ' True to the word, we did meet again. We played, and this time, the 
Good Spirit showed me kindness. 

" ' Winning back arrows, bow and robe, I staked them all against the 
lost scalp. The game was a close one ; but again the Good Spirit favored 
me, and I won. 

" ' Crowman,' said I, ' scalp against scalp.' 

" ' The banter was accepted, and the play continued. He lost, and I, 
with my winnings, arose to leave. 

" ' Warrior,' exclaimed the luckless player, ' meet me in the fight, that 
we may try the game of arms,' 

" ' Thy words please me,' I answered. ' Will the Crowman name the 
place ?' 

" ' A valley lies beyond this hill,— there my people await their enemies, 
and there let me hope to see you with them.' 

" ' To that place I led you. We fought and conquered. My opponent at 
play was among the slain. Need I tell you who took his scalp ?' " 

The old man seemed to take pleasure in acquainting us with the man- 
ners and customs of his people, and was ever ready to assign a reason for 
any of them, whenever such existed. He repeated to us the names of all 
the streams, mountains, and prominent localities of the country, and 
explained the causes of their several christenings. 

Some thirty miles to the westward of us, flowed a large creek, called by 
the Indians, " Weur-sena Warkpollo," or Old Woman's creek. This 
stream is an affluent of the Chyenne river, and takes its rise at the base 
of a mountain bearing the same name. 

The mountain is an object of great veneration with the Sioux, who rarely 
enter into its neighborhood without bestowing upon it a present of meat. 
The old man entertained us with the following explanation of a custom so 
singular : 

" My grandfather told me a tale he had received from the old men before 
him, and it is a strange one. 

" Many ages past bring us back to the time when the Lacotas lived in 
a country far above the sun of winter.* 

* The north. 



92 A STRANGE STORY. 

'• Here, then, the Shoshone reared his white lodge, and scoured the 
prairies in pursuit of game ; while, as yet, the whole country abounded 
with lakes and ponds of water, and only the highlands and mountains were 
left for the buifalo and deer. 

" But years passed on, — the mountains and highlands continued to prey 
upon the waters, and the creeks and rivers gradually reduced the limits of 
their possessions. 

" Years again fled. The Shoshones, attracted by some better region, far 
away, or driven from their homes by the hostile encroachments of other 
tribes, gave place to the Scarred-arms.* 

" In the course of generations, the Lacotas and the Scarred-arms war- 
red with each other ; they fought with varied success for many years. 

" Once a party of the Lacotas penenetrated into the heart of the enemy's 
country; on tlieir return, they fell into an ambuscade, and only six of them 
were left to tell the fate of their companions. 

" Hotly pursued by the Scarred-arms, they sought refuge in a mountain. 
There an obscure passage led to a recess in the mountain's side, which 
they entered, and were pleased to find within it a gravelly floor, and a 
pure fountain of sweet water. 

" Tempted by the conveniences and security of the place, they thought 
to remain for a few days that they might recover their strength. A small 
fire was built accordingly, and the six braves seated themselves around it, 
recounting to each other their perils and dangerous exploits, and planning 
some mode of extrication from their present difficulties. 

"Thus busied, a rustling noise from a dark corner of the apartment 
startled them, — but still more were they aroused by the half-disclosed form 
of a person moving in the distance. Words gave place to silence, as the 
warriors, seizing their arms, awaited the feared assault. But the figure, 
on advancing nearer, proved that of a feeble old woman, who addressed 
the wondering group in their own language. 

" ' Children,' said she, ' you have been against the Scarred-arms, — ^you 
have fought them, — and of a strong party, you alone survive. I know it 
all. 

" ' You seek in my lodge a refuge from your pursuers, — and the sound of 
your voices with the heat of your council-fire has disturbed my rest and 
awoke me from a long, long trance. 

" ' Your looks enquire my story. 

" ' Many ages have gone, (for days, moons, seasons, and ages are painted 
before me as they pass,) since the Shoshones, who lived where now live 
the Scarred-arms, visited the lodges of the Lacotas, and bade the prairie 
drink the blood of slaughtered bi-aves. I was their captive, and with the 
scalps of the slain I was taken from the graves of my people, many days 
travel. 

" ' The Shoshone brought me to this country, when yet the buffalo grazed 
upon the hills and mountains, only ; for the valleys and plains were th^ 
home of waters. 

"'Living with the Shoshone, I was not happy. I thought of my peo- 

* Chyennes. The name owes its oriein to the practice of scarring the left arm 
crosswise yet adhered to by the males of that nation. 



A STRANGE STORY. 93 

pie, with all those dear to me, and prayed the Good Spirit that I might 
again behold them ere my passage to the death-land. 
°" ' I fled, hoping to reach the home of my birth ; — but age had enfeebled 
me, and being pursued, I sought refuge in this cave. Here, having passed 
a night and a day in earnest communion with the Big Medicine,— a strange 
feeling came upon me. I slumbered, in a dreamy state of consciousness, 
from then till now. 

" ' But your looks again ask, who are the Shoshones ?— what became of 
them ? And from whence were the Scarred-arms ?' 

" ' The Lacotas will soon know the Shoshones, and bring from their 
lodges many scalps and medicine-dogs. Divided into two tribes, that 
nation long since sought home in other lands. One crossed the snow- 
hills towards the sun-setting ;— the Lacotas shall visit them, and avenge 
the blood and wrongs of ages. The other journeyed far away towards the 
sun of winter, and now live to the leftward of tlie places where the His- 
panola builds his earth-lodge.* 

" ' Then came the Scarred-arms from a far off country, a land of much 
snow and cold. Pleased with the thickly tenanted hunting grounds that 
here met them, they stopped for the chase, and, by a possession through 
successive generations, have learned to consider these grounds as their 
own. But they are not theirs. 

" ' The Great Spirit gives them to the Lacotas, and they shall inhabit the 
land of their daughter's captivity. 

" ' Why wait ye here ? Go and avenge the blood of your comrades 
upon the Scarred-arms. They even now light their camp-fire by the 
stream at the mountain's base. Fear not, — their scalps are yours ! 
Then return ye to my people, that ye may come and receive your inheri- 
tance. 

" ' Haste ye, that I may die. And, oh Warkantunga ! inasmuch as thou 
hast answered the prayer of thine handmaid, and shown to me the faces of 
my people, take me from hence.' 

" The awe-struck warriors withdrew. They found the enemy encamped 
at the foot of the mountain. They attacked him and were victorious ; — 
thirty-five scalps were the trophies of their success. 

" On reaching their homes the strange adventure excited the astonish- 
ment of the whole nation. The Scarred-arms were attacked by our war- 
riors, thus nerved with the hope of triumph, and were eventually driven 
from the country now possessed by the Locotas as their own. 

" The grateful braves soon sought out the mountain, to do reverence to 
the medicine-woman who had told them so many good things. A niche in 
the mountain-side, from whence issued a sparkling streamlet, told their 
place of refuge ; but the cave and the woman alike had disappeared. 

" Each successive season do our warriors visit the Shoshones for scalps 
and medicine-dogSj — and each of our braves, as he passes the Old Woman's 

* It is a singular fact, that the Curaanclies and Snakes, (Shoshones,) though Uving 
nearly a thousand miles distant from each other, with hostile tribes intervening, 
speak precisely the same language, and call themselves by the same general name. 
They have lost all tradition, however, of having formed one nation, in any previous 
age. 



94 THE DEATH SONG. 

mountain, fails not to bestow upon it his tribute of veneration, or quench 

his thirst from the creek that bears her name." 

A place on White river — where the stream pours its full force against 
the base of a lofty peak, and the powerful attrition of its waters has formed 
a rocky precipice of several hundred feet in height — is known as " The 
Death Song." The singularity of this name led me to enquire the reasons 
Vviiich prompted its bestowment. Ever ready to answer questions of this 
nature, the old chief related the following story : 

" Once, on a time, the Oglallas and Burnt-thighs held their encampment 
npon the river, opposite to the high point of which my son enquires. While 
there, a dog-soldier* of the Burnt-thighs received the ofler of six horses from 
an Oglalla brave, for his only daughter — a sweet flower — such an one as 
oft pierces the warrior's heart with her charms, when the arrows of ene- 
mies fall harmless at his feet. The offer was quickly accepted — for the 
dog-soldier was poor. 

'• When Chischille (for that was the name of the fair one) heard she 
was to become the wife of the Oglalla, she cried for grief, — and so obstinate 
was her resistance, the marriage was deferred for several days on that 
account. 

" But, why did Chischille grieve ? She had looked upon a handsome 
warrior of her own village, and she loved him. She forgot her duty, as a 
daughter, to love only at her father's bidding. Her heart had been playing 
truant and had lost itself in the labyrinths of girlish fancy. Bitter were 
the fruits of that presumption. 

" Chischille, in the interval, contrived to meet the one of her choice, and 
the two fled towards a distant village, there to live in the undisturbed en- 
joyment of their youthful loves. 

" But, alas, for them ! They were pursued, and overtaken. The life of 
the young warrior atoned for his temerity, — while Chischille was cruelly 
beaten and brought back to her father's lodge. 

" The Oglalla had already paid the purchase price, and, ere the morrow's 
sunset, was to receive his fair prize at the hand of the dog-soldier. 

" Chischille, arising with the dawn, fresh-plaited her hair, and arraying 
herself in her proudest attire, left the lodge. No one thought strange at 
seeing her thus gaily dressed for her wedding day, and, as she tripped 
along, many a warrior's heart beat high and loud at the thought that a 
creature so lovely was to become the bride of another. 

" Directing her course to the river, she crossed it and ascended the high 
peak upon the opposite side. There, seating herself upon the utmost verge 
of the precipice, she gazed calmly from its dizzy height. 

" In her lofty station, with her raven locks streaming in the winds, and 
the matchless beauty of her person so enchantingly exposed to view, she 
seemed more like a being of the Spirit-Land than aught human. The 
sweetest prairie-flower was ne'er half so lovely. 

" Her strange attitude arrested the eyes of all. 

" 'Why sits she there ? — she will fall and be dashed to pieces !' was the 
general cry. ' But listen — she sings !' 

* This is the title of those selected to superintend the civil affairs of a village. 



ASTONISHING FEATS OF JUGGLERY. 95 

"'Why should I stay, — he is gone. Light of my eyes, — ^joy of my 
soul, — show me thy dwelling ! — 'Tis not here, — 'tis far away in the Spirit 
Land. Thither he is gone. Why should I stay ? Let me go !' 

" ' Hear you that ?' said one. ' She sings her death song. She will 
throw herself from the clifT!' 

" At this, a dozen warriors, headed by him who claimed her hand, started 
to rescue the sweet singer from intended self-destruction. 

" Again she chants : 

" ' Spirit of Death, set me free ! Dreary is earth. Joyless is time. 
Heart, thou art desolate ! Wed thee another ? Nay. Death is thy 
husband! Farewell, oh sun! Vain is your hght. Farewell, oh earth! 
Vain are your plains, your flowers, your grassy dales, your purling streams, 
and shady groves ! I loved you once, — but now no longer love ! Taste- 
less are your sweets, — cheerless your pleasures ! Thee I woo, kind Death! 
Wahuspa calls me hence. In life we were one. We'll bask together in 
the Spirit Land. Who shall sunder there ? Short is my pass to thee. 
Wahuspa, I come !' 

" Upon this she threw herself forward, as the warriors grasped at her ; 
but, leaving her robe in their hands, she plunged headlong and was dashed 
to pieces among the rocks below !* 

" E'er since, the young warrior sighs as he beholds this peak, and thinks 
of the maiden's death song." 

Conversing upon the subject of medicine-men, he was asked, why those 
individuals are so highly esteemed by his people ? To this he replied : 

" These men are regarded as the peculiar favorites of the Great Spirit, 
to whom is imparted a more than ordinary share of His power and wisdom. 
We respect them, therefore, in proportion to the abilities they receive, 
even as we reverence the Great Spirit." 

Here the question was proposed, how are their abilities above those of 
others ? 

" The Yellow-hair counts as his soldier Tahtunga-mobellu, — a man of 
strong medicine. To him the Great Spirit has imparted the power of heal- 
ing, by imbibing, at pleasure, the diseases of the sick, and discharging them 
from his eyes and nose in the form of live snakes.f 

" On a time, years past, our young men went to the Pawnees and came 
back crying ; for sixteen slain of their number were left to grace an enemy's 
triumph. 

" It was winter, and the moans of men and maidens mingled with the 
i howling winds. Sorrow beclouded every brow, and brave looked upon 
[ brave as if to enquire, ' Who shall wipe out this disgrace ?' Tiien it was a 
medicine-chief stood up, and his words were : 

" * Be it for me to consult the Good Spirit.' 

* A tale which went the rounds of the pubHc prints, several years since, entitled 
the " Maiden's Leap," affords a seeming coincidence in the mode of suicide ; but, by 
comparing the two, the reader will observe a broad dissimilarity of detail. In pen- 
ning the above I was guided solely by the leading incidents as related in my hearing, 
y Tahtunga-mobellu receives the averment of all his villagers in proof of this 
Btrange feat. 



96 THE MEDICINE-MAN. 

" So saying, he entered his lodge alone, nor suffered any to come near 
during the long fast that followed. Darkness had closed four times upon 
the prairie, and the sun again hastened to hide behind the mountain peaks, 
when, calling the young men to him, the medicine-man said : 

" ' Fetch me now meat and water, with a new robe, and bid my people 
come near, that they may know the words that I would speak.' 

" The obedient braves made haste and did as bidden. Folding the robe, 
he sat upon it and partook of the refreshments placed before him. After 
eating he arose, and six large snakes, crawling from the robe one after 
another, sprang to his shoulder, and, whispering in his ear, vanished from 
sight. The last snake had just told his message when the chief began : 

" ' The Good Spirit wills it, that we remove from hence. Three moons 
being dead, let three hundred warriors return, and their hearts shall be 
made glad with medicine-dogs and the scalps of enemies.' 

"The village left, and, at the time appointed, the warriors returned. They 
met the enemy, — fought, and were victorious. Sixty-three scalps and one 
hundred medicine-dogs were the fruits of their success." 

Before dismissing the subject, many other particulars were cited in proof 
of the extraordinary abilities of dilferent medicine-men, but the above being 
the most remarkable, I have thought proper to pass over the remainder in 
silence. 



Note. — A.n account, still more wonderful than either of the foregoing, was subse^ 
quently narrated in my hearing, while among the Arapaho Indians; and, without 
vouching for the truth of ah its particulars, 1 am unwilling to withhold it from the 
reader. 

The performance alluded to is said to have occurred, some three years since, in the 
presence of the wliole Arapaho village, incredible as it may seem. The actor was a 
lliccaree by nation, and is well known to the mountain traders. 

In the centre of a large circle of men, women, and children, stood the subject of 
the appended sketch, stripped to the waist, as the gunner's mark. A shot perforated 
his body with a bullet, which entered at the chest and emerged from the opposite side. 
He instantly fell, and the blood flowing in streams dyed the grass where he lay, and 
everything seemed to prefigure the reality of death. 

While in this condition, his w ife approached and besprinkled his face with water ; 
soon after which he arose, as from a slumber — the blood still pouring from him. 
Beplastering his wound with mud before and behind, the blood ceased to flow, when 
he commenced yawning and stretching ; in a few minutes the plaster was removed by 
a pass of the hand, and neither blood, nor wound, nor the sign of a scratch or scar 
appeared ! There stood the self-restored medicine-man, before the wondering throng, 
alive and well, and in all the pride of his strength ! 

He then brought his naked son into the ring, a lad of some eight years, and, stand- 
ing at a distance of several yards, bow in hand, he pierced him through and through, 
from diaphragm to vertebras, at three successive shots. 

The boy fell dead, to every appearance, and the thick blood freely coursed from liis 
wounds. 

The performer then clasped the body in his arms and bore it around the ring for 
the inspection of all, three times in succession. Upon this he breathed into his mouth 
and nostrils, and, after suflTusing his face with water and covering his wounds with a 
mud plaster, he commenced brief manipulations upon his stomach, wluch soon ended 
in a complete recovery, nor left a single trace of injury about him. 

Both of these feats, if performed as said, can scarcely admit the possibility of trick 
or slight of hand, anO must stand as the most astonislung instances of jugglery on 
lecord. 



^! 



97 



CHAPTER XI. 

Food for horses. — Squaws and their performances. — Dogs and dog-meat. — Return to 
Fort. — Starvation. — Travel by guess. — Death from drinking. — Medicine-making. — 
A burial.— Little Lodge and the French trader.— A speech in council.— Joiu-ney to 
White river. — High winds and deep snow. — Intense sufferings and painful results. 

A LARGE grove of cottonvi^ood near us, day after day v^as graced by groups 
of village squaws, armed with axes, for the procurement of horse food. 

The bark of this tree is eaten freely by both horses and mules, and 
answers well as a substitute for corn or oats. Animals will thrive upon it 
in a remarkable manner, and even in the summer months they prefer it to 
grass. The bark of red elm is also used for the same purpose. 

The operations of the squaws at such times contributed greatly to our 
amusement. Climbing fearlessly to the topmost branch of the highest 
tree, they would there lop off the surrounding boughs, with as much appa- 
rent ease as though footed upon terra Jirma. 

And then, the enormous loads they would carry, lashed together with 
cords and slung to their backs, were enough to make a giant stagger. 
Dogs, harnessed to travees, had their part to perform, and ofttimes were 
they a source of vexation to their mistresses. 

A squaw, trudging along under a full donkey-load of cottonwood, and 
followed by a squad of half-naked children, presented a spectacle quite in- 
teresting ; but this was rendered rather comical, withal, when two or three 
draught-dogs with their heavy-laden travees reluctantly brought up the 
rear — every now and then lying down for weariness, or squatting to loll 
and gaze at their companions. 

Now, she coaxes and caresses to urge them forward — they still delay. 
Then she turns briskly towards them with a stick, — get out, dogs ! — 
" Yierh ! Warktashne ceicha," cries the squaw, accompanying her denun- 
ciation with blows, and away go the yelping troop as fast as legs can carry 
them. 

^ Dogs are the necessary appendage of every Indian lodge, and generally 
form an equal portion of the village population. They present almost all 
the different varieties of the canine species, from the wolf to the spaniel, 
and from the spaniel to the hairless dog of Africa. The wolf, however, is 
predominant, and, taken together, they more assimilate a gang of wolves 
than anything else. Indeed, the different varieties of prairie wolves hold 
familiar intercourse with the village dogs, and associate with them on 
friendly terms. 

The species used for draught, is a large, stout-built, wolfish-looking 
creature, of the Exquimaux breed. Trained to his duties in early life, he 
is generally both submissive and tractable. The drudgery of a squaw, 
which is at all times onerous, without his ready aid would prove past 
endurance. 

7 



98 MEDICINE-MAKING. 



But these dogs are also useful in another respect. Their flesh fur- 
nishes an article highly esteemed for food, and which almost invariably 
graces the soldiers' feast and every other scene of conviviality. However 
much the squamishness of the reader may revolt at the suggestion, justice 
impels me to say, the flesh of a fat Indian dog, suitably cooked, is not infe- 
rior to fresh pork ; and, by placing side by side select parts of the two, it 
would be no easy task even for a good judge to tell the difference, by either 
looks or taste, unless he were previously informed. 

Towards the last of January, buffalo having left the vicinity, the Indians, 
as a necessary consequence, were compelled to move. A great scarcity 
of provisions prevailed among them, and we ourselves were scarcely better 
off than they. 

Our stock in hand was nearly exhausted, and an abandonment of the 
post became absolutely necessary, — a thing, however, which could not be 
performed without a fresh supply of horses and cattle from Fort Platte. 
For this purpose, I volunteered my services, and, accompanied by two 
engages, was promptly under way. 

A few hours' ride brought us to the head of White river, where, con- 
suming at a meal our scanty eatables, from that onward we were left en- 
tirely destitute. 

This was the first occasion subjecting me to the pains of hunger for so 
long a time. The second day I experienced the greatest annoyance, and 
then it was I felt some of the realities of starvation. The third day, how- 
ever, I awoke in the morning scarcely thinking of breakfast. In fact, 
my appetite seemed quite passive, and the only sensation I felt was a 
kind of weakness and lassitude, evincing the lack of proper nourish- 
ment. 

The morning was cloudy and threatening. Soon afl;er leaving camp, 
snow began to fall, thick and fast. The day proved so dark, objects were 
indiscernible at the distance of a hundred yards in advance. Travelling, 
as we were, over a trackless prairie, with nothing to guide us but the wind 
and the position of the grass, it was by the merest accident we reached 
our destination a few minutes before nightfall. 

Our sudden appearance was the occasion of general surprise to the 
Fort hands, and, after a brief explanation, we began to make amends for 
previous abstinence. 

At first, a few mouthfuls sufficed, — but soon I again felt hungry and 
could be satisfied only with a double quantity, — in an equally short time 
my stomach demanded a still further supply, and, by the next day, hunger 
became so keen it seemed almost insatiable. An interval of three or four 
weeks was requisite before it assumed its wonted tone. 

During our stay here, an Indian family, occupying one of the Fort 
rooms, indulged themselves in a drunken spree. 

Having procured a quantity of the American Fur Company's liquor, the 
effects of their lavish potations soon became manifest to all within 
hearing distance. But the din of drunken revelry erelong assumed the wail 
of mourning and sorrow. 

Hearing the strange commotion, I entered the room to ascertain the 



A BURIAL. 99 

cause. There lay, helpless upon the floor, and apparently at the point of 
death, a squaw of some eighteen years ; — she, in her eagerness, had swal- 
lowed nearly a pint of the vile stuff, undiluted, and now experienced its 
dreadful consequences. 

But most conspicuous in the throng was a large, obese, cross-eyed Indian, 
earnestly engaged in his medicine-performances for her recovery. 

A breech-cloth was his sole garb, as, with eyes half strained from their 
sockets and volving in a strange unearthly manner, he stood, first upon one 
foot and then upon the other, alternately — then, stamping the floor as if to 
crush it through, and meanwhile, grunting, screeching, and bellowing, and 
beating his breast or the wall with his clenched fists, — then, with inhaled 
breath, swelling like a pufF-bafl, he would bend over his patient and apply 
sugescents to her mouth, throat and breast. 

This done, sundry ejections of saliva prepared his mouth for the recep- 
tion of an ample draught of water, with which he bespatted her face and 
forehead. 

But yet, all these extraordinary eflbrts failed to produce their designed 
effect. The poor squaw grew weaker, and her breathing became fainter 
and more difficult. 

Some powerful restorative must be adopted, or she will soon be beyond 
the reach of medicine, — so thought the officiating doctor ; or, at least, his 
succeeding antics indicated that such were the cogitations of his mind. 
Standing for a minute or two in the attitude of reflection, an idea stuck 
him. Ah, he has it now ! This cannot fail. 

Snatching a butcher-knife and hastening with it to the fire, he heats the 
point to redness upon the coals, — then balancing it between his teeth, at a 
toss he flings it vaulting above his head and backward upon the floor, — 
then, re-catching it, he goes through the performance a second and a third 
time. 

Thus premised, he addresses himself with threefold energy to the gro- 
tesque and uncouth manoeuvres before described. If he had stamped his 
feet, he now stamps them with a determination hitherto unknown ; — if he 
had thumped his breast and beat the walls, he now thumps and beats as if 
each blow were intended to prostrate the object against which it was directed, 
— if he had grunted, screeched, and bellowed, he now grunts, screeches, 
bellows, and yells, till the very room quakes with the reverberations of 
domoniac noise ; — if he had gagged, puflfed, and swelled, he now gags, 
pufl^s, and swells, as if he would explode from the potency of his extraor- 
dinary inflations. 

Then, with an air of confidence, he hies to his patient and commences 
a process of manipulation from her breast downwards, and reverse, — and 
then again he repeats his previous operations, with scrupulous exactness 
and unsparing effort, in all their varie I minutiee. 

But, alas for the medicine-man ! — the squaw died, despite the omnipo- 
tence of his skill ! 

Then was enacted another such a scene of piteous wailing, as Indians 
alone have in requisition, as vent for their grief. 

After the usual preliminaries, the corpse of the deceased was placed 
upon a scaffold beside that of Susu-ceicha, the old chief of whom I have 
spoken in a former chapter. Each member of the bereaved family depos- 



100 SPEECH OF LITTLE LODGE. 

ited a tuft of hair in the sack containing the meat and trinkets placed 
beneath her head. A smooth piece of cottonwood slab was then affixed to 
the scaffold, upon which were traced, in vermilion, certain quadrangular 
characters of unknown meaning, — answering well to the idea of an 
inscription of name and age. 

A difficulty occurred about this time between a trader of the American 
Fur Company and an Oglalla chief, known as Little Lodge. 

The latter had become crazed by liquor, and, being rather turbulent, was 
put out of the Fort. But, effecting a re-entrance, he again proved equally 
annoying. The trader then commenced quarrelling with him, and under- 
took to seize his arms. This the Indian resisted, when the trader discharg- 
ed a pistol at him, but missed his object. Here was a deadly affront, that 
blood alone could wipe away. 

With great difficulty, the Indian was finally disarmed and bound. He 
was thus secured till the next day, when he was liberated ; — still, however, 
he muttered threats of revenge. 

Two or three weeks subsequently, Little Lodge was present at a soldiers' 
feast, and the question of war with the Americans was a prominent sub- 
ject of consideration. 

Several speeches were made, both for and against it ; and, though the 
prevailing sentiment seemed to be of an adverse kind, it scarcely required 
a half dozen words to turn the scale upon either side. 

Little Lodge arose to address the council, and the friends of the whites, 
knowing the vengeful spirit that yet rankled in his bosom at the remem- 
brance of his recent injuries, began to fear for the continuance of peace. 

Contrary to the universal expectation, he contended for its maintenance. 
" But," said he, " Little Lodge has grievances of his own, and they call for 
redress. 

" There is one among the pale-faces whose blood must wash away the 
foul blot that rests upon the name of Little Lodge. I know him well. 
He is not a Long-knife. The Long-knives are all the friends of Little 
Lodge. Let the Lacota take them by the hand whenever he meets them 
upon the prairie. It is good that he do so. I'hey are very many and ex- 
ceedingly rich. Their country is a large one, and far away towards the 
sunrising. They, too, are strong for war. They have big hearts and 
strong, and they are very good to the red man. They bring to him many 
good things ; why, then, should the Lacota hate the Long-knife ? 

" Do my brothers ask who it is of tlie pale-faces the Little Lodge would 
remove from the light of day ? Know, then, he is not of the Long-knives, 
— he is of the Warceichas, (Frenchmen.) The Warceichas are not Long- 
knives ! 

" And, do my brothers ask, who are the Warceichas ? 

" Aye, who are they,? Little Lodge cannot tell ; — who of all the Laco- 
tas can ? Who ever heard of the country of these men ? No one. They 
have no country, — they are no people. They are are as the wandering 
dogs * that infest our hunting grounds and prey upon the game formed by 
the Good Spirit for the red man's sustenance. They steal into the land of 

* Chunka-raonet, or travelling dogs, is the name appliod by these Indians to wolves. 



INTENSE SUFFERING. 101 

the red man, and sneak around from place to place ; — for they have no 
home ; they have no country ; they are no people ! 

" One of these it was who bade the medicine-iron speak its death-word 
to Little Lodge, and sought to spill the blood of a Lacota brave, after that 
he had made him a fool by means of his thickened* fire-water! 

" Should Little Lodge fall by the hand of the Warceicha ? He might 
fall by the hand of a Long-knife, and the nation would honor his memory, 
— but never, should the Warceicha bring him low ! 

" Then, is it not good that Little Lodge should be avenged upon this lost 
dog — this outcast of the world — that the whelps of a motherless breed may 
cease to insult and wrong the Lacotas ? Which of all my brothers will 
say nay ?" 

The address was received in silence, — no one presuming to oppose an 
answer to its sentiments. Whether the speaker executed his threats of 
vengeance against the offending trader, I am yet unadvised. 

Having remained two nights and a day at Fort Platte, we again started 
for White river, taking with us three yoke of oxen and several horses, one 
of which was laden with dried meat. 

The snow greatly retarded our progress from the first, and so obscured 
the trail we were compelled to travel mostly by guess. The sun, too, was 
shut out by a tenebrous atmosphere, and we could judge of our proper 
course only by observing the movements of the clouds,f with the general 
range of the hills and ravines, or inclination of the grass. 

The broad expanse of unbroken snow lying from Rawhide to L'eau-qui- 
court, brought a chill tremor with the thought of crossing it. Yet, go we 
must ! It was no time to falter when the fate of others, perhaps, depend- 
ed upon our prompt advance. 

But the effort was no child's play. If we had experienced a tedious 
time during a former journey, what could we expect now ? The whole 
interval of thirty miles was covered with snow, that grew deeper and deep- 
er as we proceeded. Every hollow and ravine was filled, and the route 
otherwise seriously impeded by huge drifts and embankments. 

We were frequently compelled to break foot-paths for our animals, and 
ever and anon pull them by main strength from the deep pitfalls into which 
they would plunge and become almost lost to view. In this manner our 
progress was slow, — the average depth through which we waded being 
but httle less than two feet. 

The rising of a fierce head wind, piercing as the blasts of Nova Zem- 
bla, drove the snow into our faces with mad fury and added immeasurably 
to our sufferings. 

* Allusion is here made to the drugged liquor supposed to have been palmed upon 
him by the trader. 

t The idea of directing our course by the movements of the clouds is doubtless a 
novel suggestion to most readers ; but its philosophy will be readily comprehended by 
a bare mention of the fact, that the winds of these regions almost invariably blow 
from a west-southwest point ; and, as they are usually high, it is no very extraordi- 
nary performance to calculate the bearing of north or south, even in the most obscure 
weather. 



102 A HORRIBLE CONDITION. 

In this manner night shut down upon us, while yet far distant from any 
camping-place. And, such a night ! Oh, storms and deadly w inter, foul 
and fierce ! how swept ye " through the darkened sky," and with your 
awful howlings rendered " the savage wilderness more wild !" 

The creeping cold on every nerve played freely, in haste to sting our 
vitals, and lay us each 

along the snows a stifFen'd corse, 



Stretch'd out and bleaching in the northern blast!" 

The impress of this event can never be effaced from my mind. It was 
midnight ere we arrived at the limberless L'eau-qui-court and struck 
camp. Our animals needed water, but we had neither axe or tomahawk 
to cut through the thick ice with which the creek was coated. As a 
remedy for this lack, all three of us advanced upon it, and, by our united 
efforts at jumping, caused a lengthy fissure with gentle escarpments to- 
wards each shore, that left midway an ample pool. 

Having driven the cattle to this, in their clumsy movements upon the 
ice, two of them fell, and, sliding down the inclined plain, lay struggling in 
the freezing water, unable to rise. Our only resort was to drag them to 
the shore by main strength ; for, left in their then condition, they must have 
frozen to death in a very short time. 

Here commenced a series of pulling and wrenching, that, in our chilled 
and exhausted state, we were ill-prepared to endure. 

For awhile our efforts proved vain. A backward-slide succeeded each 
headway-pull, and vexed us with useless toil. Thus we worried for nearly 
three hours in water knee-deep ! 

At length, having procured a rope and fastened one end to their horns 
and the other around a pointed rock upon the shore, and gathering the slack 
at each successive thrust, we finally succeeded in placing them both, one 
after the other, upon dry land. 

But, now we were in a thrice sorry plight. Not a stick of wood could 
be raised, far or near, of which to build a fire, and bois de vache, the great 
substitute of the prairies, was too deeply covered with snow for procure- 
ment. Our clothes, wet to the waist, were frozen upon us, and the merci- 
less wind, with stinging keenness, pierced us through at every breath, and 
stood us forth as living monuments of ice ! 

■ Could men of iron endure such incomprehensible hardships,— such in- 
expressible sufferings ? Yet we survived them all ! 

Spreading a few robes upon the snow, we lay down for sleep, dinnerless 
and supperless. I was now seized with a chill, which lasted for two hours 
or more ; and so violent were its actions I could scarcely keep the covering 
upon me. 

My companions, however, though not similarly afflicted, were worse off 
than myself One had his hands and ears frozen, and the other his hands 
and feet, — the painful consequences of which, as the frost began to yield to 
the inffuence of generated warmth, were too apparent in their groans and 
writhings. 

Morning at length came, and the sun arose bright and clear. The 



HORSES DEVOURED BY WOLVES. 103 

winds had ceased their ragings, and a clement atmosphere seemed pouring 
upon us the balm of sympathy for miseries so recently endured. 

But their direful effects were not thus easily eradicated. The feet of one 
poor fellow were so badly frozen, it was three months before he entirely 
recovered ; while another lost a portion of one of his ears. As for myself, 
a severe cold settled in my teeth, producing an intensely painful ache 
and swoollen face, that continued for eight or ten days. 

It seems almost miraculous that we should have escaped so easily, and 
often, even after so long an interval, I shudder at the recollection of this 
anguishing scene. 

Two days subsequently we reached our destination, and found all things 
pretty nxuch in statu quo. 



CHAPTER XII. 



Another drunken spree. — ^Horses devoured by wolves. — An upset. — A blowing up.— 
Daring feat of wolves. — A girl offered for liquor. — Winter on the Platte. — Boat 
building. — Hunting expedition. — Journey up the Platte. — Island camp.— Narrow 
escape. — Snow storm —Warm Spring.— Pass of the Platte into the prairies.— A 
valley. — Bitter Cottonwood. — Indian forts. — Wild fruit. — Root-digging. — Cherry 
tea and its uses. — Geology of the country. — Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and purity 
of atmosphere. — Horse-shoe creek. — A panther. — Prairie dogs and their pecuhar- 
ities. 

Our intended evacuation of the post was posponed till the week follow- 
ing, and, meanwhile, the few customers, that still hung on, were careful to 
improve the passing opportunity of steeping their senses in liquor. 

Another general drunken frolic was the consequence, ending as usual in 
a fight and still further attempts upon the life of our trader. 

Soon after this, our catalogue of disasters was increased by the death 
of two horses, which fell a prey to wolves. 

The case was an aggravated one, and provoking in the extreme. Both 
of them were " buffalo horses," and the fleetest and most valuable in our 
possession, — in fact, they were the only ones of which we ventured to boast. 
We had others of little worth, so poor and feeble they could oppose none 
resistance to magpies,* and much less to the rapacity of wolves. 

But, no. These blood-thirsty depredators, desirous of a feast of fat 
things, were determined to have it, reckless of cost, — and, the encrimsoned 
tracks, coursing the snowy plain in every direction where passed the swift 

* The magpie of the mountains is the torment of all sore-backed horses, particularly 
during the winter season. Despite opposition it will feed upon their skinless flesh, 
often to the very bones. 



104 BOAT BUILDING. 

chargers in vain effjrt to escape, proved that they won their supper at an 
enormous expense of leg-wear. 

Fel). 4/h. All things being in readiness, we bade farewell to winter- 
quarters, and commenced our journey. 

Crossing the river soon after, on ascending the opposite bank, a cart up- 
set and deposited its contents in the water. The load, consisting of robes 
and powder, became thoroughly saturated, and we were employed a full 
hour in fishing it out. The stream being waist-deep and filled with floating 
ice, amid which we were forced to plunge, our task was far from a 
pleasant one. 

The freight needed drying, and we w^cre detained two days for that pur- 
pose. Meanwhile the drenched powder was subjected to the experiments 
of one of our engages. Having spread it to dry, he was carelessly bend- 
ing over it, when a spark from the camp-fire struck the ready ignitible ; 
a sprightly flash, enveloping the luckless wight in a sheet or flame, told 
the instant result. Springing to his feet, he exclaimed : 

" Bless my stars ! That's what I call regular blowing up .'" 

" Aye, aye, my lad," says one. " You was always a bright youth, — but 
never before did you appear -half so briUianl. 'Tis a fact, or I'm a liar !" 

Pvesuming our course, the second night following was passed at a pool 
of water between L'eau-qui-court and Rawhide. Here, having placed my 
shoes under my head for better security, I slept soundly till morning. 
Rising at an early hour, I turned for tliem, but one was missing, and, after 
searching far and near, it could not be found. 

The mystery of its disappearance, however, was fully solved by the nu- 
merous wolf tracks that appeared on all sides ; — some straggling marauder 
had stolen it during the night, and quietly deposited it in his empty stomach 
as the substitute for an early breakfast. 

Our camp at Rawhide was beset with a throng of Indians from an adjoin- 
ing village, who, as usual, were loudly clamorous and importunate for liquor. 
A beautiful young squaw was brought in, to exchange for that article. 
However, their solicitations were of no avail and their vitiated appetites 
went unappeased. 

On the 12th of February we reached the Fort, and thus ended our disas- 
trous and eventful expedition. 

Winter in the neighborhood of the Platte had been remarkably mild, 
and at no time during the season had the snow remained upon the ground 
to exceed a day. Vegetation, even thus early, was beginning to put forth, 
and bring to view the beauty and loveliness of spring. 

Preparations were already on foot for building a boat for the transporta- 
tion of furs to the Sta.tes by way of the river, and, at the solicitation of 
of the company's agent, I reluctantly consented to take charge of it during 
the voyage, — thus deferring, for the present, my design of visiting Oregon. 
The timber used in its construction was procured from the neighboring 
pine hills, and prepared by a laborious process of hand, with the aid of a 
pit-saw. The ribs and other timber were obtained irom an af5h grove, a few 



A PETTY LOOKING SET. 105 

miles above the Fort, and three men were busily engaged in putting all 
things in readiness for the expected spring rise — an event which sekloni 
occurs before the I5th of May. 

The winter's trade having closed, an interval of nearly three months' 
leisure followed, which resulted in a hunting expedition that included my- 
self with six others. 

Anxious to explore the mountains, we set our faces westward ; but, owing 
to the reported closeness of game en route, very little provisions were 
taken witli other necessaries. 

Keeping the river bottom by a rocky ridge for some ten miles, our course 
led through several beautiful groves and broad stretches of rich alluvial 
soil, that presented an encouraging prospect to agriculturists. After a 
few hours' ride we came to a point at which the stream sweeps round the 
ridge's base, causing a vertical wall of lias and sandstone nearly one hun- 
dred and fifty feet high. 

Abandoning the river bottom at tliis place, we ascended to the high 
prairie on the left, where an interesting plateau greeted us, extending far 
away to the south and west, till it became lost in the neighboring moun- 
tains. Continuing on a short distance, we again struck the river, at a 
small opening between two hills, and made camp in a grove of willows. 

Opposite this place is a large heavily wooded island, of a blueish loam, 
upon a subtratum of fossiliferous hmestone. 

Above and below are lofty walls of limestone and ferruginous rock, that, 
in many places, overhang the sweeping waters at their base, and form roof- 
age beneath which swarms of prairie swallows are wont to raise their 
annual broods. 

Consuming our scanty supply of provisions at a single meal, each soon 
disposed of himself for the night. A mild atmosphere invited to repose ; 
and, enwrapped in a single robe, my troubles were speedily forgotten in a 
quiet slumber. 

But during the succeeding interval, a change came over the spirit of 
my dream. I was suddenly aroused by the crash of a huge tree, that fell 
across my bed, and only a providential curve arching upwards, had saved me 
from instant death ! 

" Hurra, for me !" I exclaimed, as my startled campmates came cluster- 
ing around, — " It's better to be born lucky than rich!" 

The wind was nov/ blowing a perfect hurricane, and the trees tottered 
around us, threatening every moment to fall. In an hour or so, however, 
the gale abating, we again addressed ourselves to sleep. 

Towards morning, feeling a disagreeable warmth and superincumbent 
pressure, I was induced to uncover, and, looking out, the cause was ex- 
plained by the presence of a dense snow that covered the ground to the 
depth of several inches. The fallen snow was melting fast, and that yet 
descending soon merged into rain. 

A pretty-looking set of fellows were we, in a comparatively short time ! 
— blankets, robes, clothes, and every article about us were wet — soaking 
wet — and covered with mud. It Vequired an effort of several hours to 
kindle a fire, so thoroughly saturated was everything with water ; — thia 
done, we all gathered around it, and — such a group ! — Oh, the beauties 
of mud and water ! A painter might describe it, — I cannot. 



106 INDIAN FORTS. 

If the reader imagines we felt in a superlative good humor while stand- 
ing there, breakfastless, shivering, and wet, he has conjured up a strange 
illusion. 

It having ceased rainhig about mid-day, in the course of the afternoon 
we enjoyed a beautiful sunshine for a couple of hours, which enabled us 
to assume a better t.^avelling phght; and, favored by a mild atmosphere and 
clear sky, on the following morning, we again resumed our course. 

Striking upon an Indian trail, we bare leftward from the river, and, in a 
short ride, came to a sand creek shut in by precipitous embankments of 
limestone, through which our road led by a narrow defile. A transparent 
spring gushes from the right bank with considerable noise, furnishing a 
beautiful streamlet to its hitherto high bad, which is known as the " Warm 
Spring." 

A short distance above the mouth of this creek, the Platte makes its 
final egress from the Black Hills through a tunnel-kke pass, walled in 
upon either side by precipitous cliffs of red- sandstone and siliceous lime- 
stone, sometimes overhanging the stream at their base, and towering to a 
height of from three to five hundred feet. The high table lands consti- 
tuting these immense walls, are surmounted with shrubs and occasional 
pines and cedars, that unite to present a wild romantic scenery. 

Continuing on, and bearing still further leftward, we passed a beautiful 
valley, graced Avith several springs and a small grove of cottonwood, with 
cherry and plum bushes, near which rose a conical hill abundant in fos- 
sihferous limestone of a snowy whiteness. A diminutive pond in the vicin- 
ity afforded several varieties of the testaceous order, both bivalves and 
univalves — a circumstance quite rare among mountain waters. The soil 
of this locality appeared to be a compound of clay, sand, and marl, and 
well adapted to agriculture. 

Passing this, our course led over a gently undulating prairie, bounded 
on either side by pine hills. The soil was generally of a reddish, sandy 
loam, intermixed with clay ; and, judging from the long dry grass of the 
preceding year, it was both rich and productive. 

Towards night we arrived at a large creek, bearing the name of Bitter 
Cottonwood, — so called from the abundance of that species of poplar in 
its valley. 

These trees generally grow very tall and straight with expansive tops, 
— averaging from twenty-five to one hundred and fifty feet in height. 

The creek occupies a wide, sandy bed, over which the water is dispersed 
in several shallow streams. The valley is broad and of a jetty, vegetable 
mould, variegated, at intervals, with layers of gravel deposited by aqueous 
currents, and is bounded on both sides by abrupt acclivities leading to the 
beautiful plateaux and lofty pine hills so abundant in the neighborhood. 

The remains of three or four Indian forts were situated adjoining the 
place selected for our encampment. These were built of logs, arranged 
in a circular form, and enclosing an area, sufficient for the acccmmodation 
of twenty or thirty warriors. The walls were generally about six feet 
high, with single entrances, and apertures in various places for the use of 
their defenders in case of attack. 

All Indian forts, meeting my observation in subsequent travels, with one or 
two exceptions, were of the same general description. Some, however, 



CHERRY TEA. 107 

are almost entirely roofed in by an arched covering, presenting a coniform 
appearance. The only exception to this mode of fortification was of a 
quadrangular form, and in a solitary instance the materials were of rock. 
The latter structure I shall take occasion to describe in due course. 

The valley gave abundant indication of wild fruit at the proper season, — 
such as plums, cherries, currants, goose and butfalo berries, (aliepherdia 
argentea.) Tlie signs of game were very plentiful, particularly elk ; — 
after camp two or three of us sallied out with our rifies in quest of these 
wary animals, while others were busily employed in digging for roots to 
appease the gnawing of appetite, which began to make itself most sensibly 
felt by all. 

About sundown both parties came in, — the hunters quite dispirited, not 
having seen any thing in the shape of elk or other game, — but the root 
diggers had been more lucky and brought with them a small supply of 
nutritious aliments, which were divided equally among the company, — and, 
through scarcely a half dozen mouthfuls were apportioned to each, they 
answered, to some extent, the designed object. 

These roots consisted of two varieties, viz : pojnme hlanc, and com- 
miie. 

The pomme hlanc, or white apple, is a native of the prairies and moun- 
tains, oval shaped and about three and a lialf inches in circumference. It 
is encased in a thin fibrous tegument, which, when removed, exposes an 
mterior of white pulpy substance, much like a turnip in taste. It gen- 
erally grows at a depth of three or four inches, in the soil of hill-sides 
and plateaux, where is found a reddish clay loam abundant in fragmentary 
rocks and gravel. The stalk attains a height of about three inches, and ia 
general description is quite like a well known article, common to the States, 
called " sheep-sorrel." At the proper season it bears a handsome white 
blossom, that would suffer no disparagement when placed in juxtaposi- 
tion with many of the choicer specimens of our gardens. 

Tlie commote'^ is a root much like the common radish in size and shape, 
while a brownish skin envelopes a substance of milky whiteness, soft and 
nutritious, and of an agreeable taste. It is found most abundant in river 
bottoms, and requires a rich alluvial soil, well mixed with sedimentary 
deposites and vegetable matter. It generally penetrates to a depth of 
about four inches. Its leaves resemble those of the carrot in shape and 
color, and seldom grow to exceed two inches from the ground, while a stalk 
equally unpretending, bears a blueish blossom, not without some just 
claim to beauty. 

The pomme blanc and commote are equally good whether boiled or raw, 
and are uniformly harmless, even with those unaccustomed to their use as 
an article of food. 

Making way with our scanty supply, a fire was struck and a kettle of 
tea prepared from wild cherry bark, which proved quite wholesome. 

This, as I ascertained, is a drink quite common among mountaineers 
and Indians in the spring season, and is used for purifying the blood and 
reducing it to suitable consistency for the temperature of summer. As 
the successful performer of the task assigned, I most cordially attest to 

* I ara ignorant of the moaning or derivation of this name. 



108 FASTING AND FEASTING. 



its virtues, and recommend it as the most innocent and effective medicine, 
if medicine it may be called, that can be employed for a result so neces- 
sary to general health. 

Early on the succeding day we resumed our journey. 

I nov/ for the first time noticed a gradual change in the geological 
character of the country. The soil in many places appears to be sterile, 
and is generally of a red clayish nature, mixed with sand and fragmentary 
rock, and strongly impregnated with mineral salts, among which nitre 
forms a prominent component. Some spots, for a considerable extent, 
are entirely destitute of vegetation, and present a surface whitened by 
saline efflorescences, among which nitre and sulphate of soda form a 
predominant part. 

The character of the various moulds (with the exception of the allu- 
vion in the vicinity of the rivers and creeks) is almost entirely primitive, 
like numerous strata of rocks upon which they repose. 

The grass, from the dry specimens of the previous summer's growth, 
appeared to be of a longer and a coarser kind, and more sparse and iso- 
lated. The short buffalo-grass of the grand prairie had almost entirely 
disappeared, — in some places a blueish salt grass (herba saliie) showed 
itself in plats uncropped by game. Artemisie* or rather greasewood of 
the mountaineers, became quite abundant, as did absinthe, or wild sage, 
together with severals specimens of the cacti family, which are the common 
pest of the mountain prairies. 

The purifying eflects of saline exhalations, with the odor of the grease- 
wood and absinllie of the prairies, plateaux and table lands, and the balsam 
and cedar of the adjacent mountains, afforded an atmosphere, even at this 
unfavorable season, as aromatic as the air of Eden and as wholesome as 
the deathless clime of Elysium. 

Eastward lay a broad expanse of prairie, bounded only by the horizon, 
while westward and upon either hand, the high summits of the Black 
Hills, with their pines and snows, told our ingress to other and wilder 
scenes. 

Our course for some twenty or twenty-five miles led through a broad 
valley, though occasionally winding among rugged hills of red-sandstone 
and primitive rock, with denuded sides and level summits, covered with 
shrubs and dwarfish pines. 

Towards night, on reaching a small stream, called Horse-shoe creek, 
we struck camp. One of the party having killed a buck deer, we were 
promptly on hand, and not at all backward in obeying the calls of appe- 
tite, sharpened by a continuous abstinence of three days. 

* Lt. Fremont, in his report relative to the proceedings of the expedition of 1842, 
'3, and '4, has designated some three varieties of shrubs by the general term arte- 
misie, among v^hich are greasewood and prairie sage. AUhough the latter are of 
the same family, the difference in their appearance is so marked, I have thought 
it proper to observe a nominal distinctioa, and for that reason, they are called in 
subsequent pages by tenr^ familiar to the mountaineers. 



PRAIRIE DOGS. 109 

Deer-meat at this season of the year is very poor eating, — especially 
that of the buck, — it being both lean and tough ; but, indifferent as it was, 
we were too hungry to be nice. 

Previous to reaching camp I rode along the base of a small mountain, 
some distance to the right of the main party, in quest of game ; there I 
caught glimpse of the first panther I had yet met with. Jumping from my 
horse, I thought to give him a passing shot, — but he, neither liking my 
looks nor the smell of gunpowder, made hasty retreat to his mountain 
home. 

Passing leisurely on, my course led through a large village of prairie- 
dogs, which reminds me of having heretofore neglected a description of 
these singular animals. 

I am at a loss to imagine what it is in the habits or looks of the prairie- 
dog that entitles him to that appellation. 

In appearance and size he more approximates a large species of the 
sciurus famil}'', commonly called the fox-squirrel, than anything I can name. 
His tail, however, is but an inch and a half long, while his ears and legs 
are also short ; — as a whole, perhaps, he is a trifle larger and more corpu- 
lent than the fox-squirrel. His " bark " is precisely like the occasional 
chatterings of that animal, and his color is of a brownish red. 

His habits are quite inoffensive and lead him to procure his food from 
roots and grass. Clumsy in his motions, he seldom ventures far from 
home — fearful of the numerous enemies that beset him on all sides, both 
from birds and beasts of piey. 

These animals congregate together in large villages, and dig their bur- 
rows adjoining each other ; — the dirt thrown from them often forming cone- 
like elevations three or four feet high, in whose tops are the entrances. 
The latter are nearly of a perpendicular descent for two feet, and then 
slope away to a great distance under ground. 

These villagers locate without regard to the vicinity of water, and it is 
gravely doubted, by many persons, whether they make the same use of that 
fluid as other animals ; — I have seen large settlements of them in high arid 
prairies, at a distance of fifteen or twenty miles from either stream or pool 
of water, and in regions subject to neither rain nor dews. 

Tjiey are keen of sight and scent, and seemed governed by some code of 
federative regulations for mutual safety. Their guards are regularly posted 
at the suburbs of every village, whose duty it is to be continually on the 
alert and give timely warning of the approach of danger. 

This tlie cautious sentinels discharge by standing erect at the slightest 
tainture of the air, or startling noise, or strange appearance ; and, having 
ascertained by careful observations its nature and cause, they sound the 
sharp yelp and chatter of alarm, in a hurried manner, — then, betaking 
themselves to the watch-towers that protect the entrances to their burrows, 
from the verge of the steep parapets they again renew their warning notes, 
when the whilom busy populace, bescattered at briei" distances for amuse- 
ment or food, return with all possible despatch to their ready holes and dis- 
appear from view. 

The faithful sentinels are last to retreat from their posts, and not unfre- 
quently maintain their ground at the hazard of individual safety. 



no WILD SCENES. 



On the disappearance of the cause of alarm, they are the first to com- 
municate the pleasing intelligence, and soon the reassured community again 
betake themselves to their business and sports. 

The prairie-owl and rattlesnake maintain friendly relations with these 
inoffensive villagers, and not unfrequently the three heterogeneous associates 
occupy the same subterranean appartments ; — a strange companionship of 
birds, beasts, and reptiles ! 

The prairie dog is extremely tenacious of life, and can seldom be killed 
with a rifle, unless by a brain-shot ; and then, even, it is difficult to secure 
him, as his companions will immediately convey the carcase into their holes 
beyond reach. 

The flesh of these animals is tender and quite palatable, and their oil 
superior in fineness, and absence from all grosser ingredients, to that of 
any other known animals ; it is highly valued as a medicine in certain 
cases. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

The Creek valley. — The Platte as a mountain stream. — Canon. — Romantic prospect. 
—Comical bear story. — Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. — Geological re- 
marks. — Division of party. — Safety of spring travel. — La Bonte's creek.— Remarks 
by the way. — Service-berry. — Deer Creek. — General observations.— Moccasin mak- 
ing.— Box-elder.— Bear killed.— Excellence of its flesh. — Different kinds of bears in 
Oregon and the mountains.—The grizzly bear, his nature and habits. 

HoRSE-sHOE creek is a stream of considerable size, that traces its way 
through a broad valley of rich alluvion, well timbered with cottonwood and 
box-elder, and affording all the usual varieties of mountain fruit. The 
grass of the preceding year's growth was quite rank and stout, giving 
evidence of a fertile soil. 

Resuming our course, we again bore towards the river with the design 
of crossing, and, after a few hours' ride came to its banks, through a broad 
opening between two ridges of hills that communicated with it from the 
high prairies and table lands upon the left. 

Here, however, fording was impracticable, the stream being too high and 
the current swift. 

The Platte of the mountains retains scarcely one characteristic of the 
river with which the reader has hitherto become so familiarized. It is now 
confined to a bed of rock and gravel, not exceeding two hundred yards in 
width, and is of unwonted clearness and transparency. Its banks are 
Bteep, and the attrition of high waters discloses a deep vegetable mould in 
their vicinity, favorable to the growth of grain or other produce. 

A small bottom of rich sandy loam upon the opposite side lay at the base 
of a high ridge of table lands, which presented its rugged sides of red- 



INTERESTING VIEW. HI 

sandstone, almost vertical in their position, and ornamented with an occa- 
sional stunted pine, or cedar, or shrub of the buffalo-berry, (shepherdia ar- 
gentea,) while at their base reposed, in huge masses, a profuse medley of 
fallen fragments, strown around in all the wild confusion of savage 
scenery. 

A few hundred yards to the left, the Platte forces its way through a 
barrier of table lands, forming one of those striking peculiarities incident 
to mountain streams, called a "canon,"* 

Improving the opportunity afforded by a short stay, I ascended an emi- 
nence to enjoy a full vew of the grand spectacle. The mountain through 
which the river finds passage, at this place, is from five to eight hundred 
feet high, opposing perpendicular walls upon each side, that at many points 
overhang the narrow stream which sweeps with its foaming waters among 
the rocks below. 

This canon is nearly two miles in length. About midway of the dis- 
tance the whole stream is precipitated in an unbroken volume from a ledge 
of rocks, causing a cataract of some twenty or twenty-five feet descent. 

Standing upon the dizzy \erge of this frightful chasm, and gazing 
adown its dark abyss, the aspect is one of terrific sublimity, and such an 
one as will cause the beholder to shrink back with instinctive dread ! 

These walls are principally of red-sandstone, and ferruginous rock, the 
precise character of which I was unable to determine. Upon the summit 
I noticed an abundance of silex, with some elegant specimens of crystal- 
line quartz, that, reflecting the sun's rays, shone like gems in the crown of 
a mountain-god ; a number of singular ligneous petrifactions also met my 
observation, principally consisting of pine and cedar. 

The surrounding country brought within the scope of vision an interest- 
ing and romantic scene. The lofty table land in front (with diversified 
surfaces of granitic rock and vegetable earth, affording a scanty nourish- 
ment for herbage and foothold for dwarfish cedars and pines) spread far 
away to the snow-clad mountains of the north, — while rearward at its base 
lay the broad valley through which passes the Oregon trail, shut in upon two 
sides by rugged hills; and farther on arise the snowy sides of the Lara- 
mie chain, with their cloud-capped summits. To the left, peak towering 
above peak, in gradual succession, point to the ridge dividing the waters 
of the Atlantic and Pacific; and, to the right, the lessening eminences, 
valloyis, and plateaux, guide the eye to where the boundless prairie revels 
in wild beauty and owns itself the realm of eternal Sohtude ! 

How magnificent must be the scene when spring arrays the surrounding 
landscape in her own loveliness, and bedecks the wilderness with gaudy 
verdure ! 

Bearing again to the left, we continued our course by a winding 
buffalo-path which soon brought us to a broad valley bordering upon the 

* The Spanish word " canon" implies a narrow, timnel-like passage between high 
and precipitous banks, formed by mountains or table lands. It is pronounced kanyon, 
and is a familiar term in the vocabulary of a mountaineer. 



112 OBSERVATIONS. 

Riding on, we soon came to a large sand creek ; and, observing several 
bulls in the vicinity, we accepted the advantage offered by a small grove 
of cottonwoods and willows, with a clear spring, and struck camp. 

During the day, the oddity of an old Franco-Canadian, who accompa- 
nied us, afforded me considerable amusement. Observing that he had car- 
ried his gun uncharged for several days past, a circumstance so singular 
in this country led me to enquire the cause. The old fellow, with the most 
laughable sangfroid, answered as follows : 

" Me carry fusee load ? No, no ! monsieur. No good, carry fusee load 
sur le printems. Certes, much bear come out — him dangereux. Me live 
long en le montagnes ; oui, no remarque — duo, tree, great many year ! 
Sacre dem bear, — vat you call him en la American ?" 

" Grizzly bear, I suppose you mean," said I. 

" Oui, oui, monsieur ; much graces, monsieur ! Oui, gizzle bear ; me 
parler bon American, que no remarque gizzle bear ! entonner ! Sacre dem 
gizzle bear, him come out une day, kill me de pres." 

" Well;" continued I; " what has that to do with carrying your gun un- 
loaded ?" 

" Oui, oui ; pardonner, monsieur. Me parler tel une bon American ! 
Me reciter, sacre dem bear, — vat you call him, monsieur ? Oh, gizzle 
bear ! Sacre dem gizzle bear, me see him une day, en le printems ; big, 
grand feileu. Shoot him fusee ; make him much blood ; no kill him. 
Sacre dem bear, gizzle bear, him jump for me. 'Wa-r-r-h !' he say, (im- 
itating the bear.) Bon Dieu ! me no stay dare ; me bein fast run ; me 
abandonner la fusee ; me climb une leetil pine. Sacre dem bear — vat you 
call him ? Ah, oui, gizzle bear. Certes, monsieur, me parler bon Amer- 
ican, tel une nature] ! Sacre dem bear, him come to tree ; no climb him, 
—he too leetil. Look him all round, den ; sacre dem bear, gizzle bear did. 
See fusee lie ; pick him up; cock him fusee, sacre dem bear, gizzle bear 
did. Take him aim at me ; snap him fusee tree time. Oh, monDieu! 
mon Dieu ! Suppose him fusee been load ! Tonnerre de bateme ! Ilim 
shoot me ; him kill me dead ! sacre dem bear, dem gizzle bear vould ! 
Certes, monsieur ; por le assure, sacre dem gizzle bear, him kill me ! en le 
verite, monsieur, him kill me dead !" 

" So," resumed I, "your reason for not carrying your gun loaded is, you 
are fearful that a bear might chance to get hold of it and shoot you !" 

" Certes, monsieur ; en le verite ! No carry gun load, sur le printems. 
Sacre dem bear get 'old of him, he shoot !" 

Towards night, two of our party, who had gone in pursuit of buffalo, 
returned laden with n)eat, which, though poor, was far preferable to the 
lean venison we had fed upon for the last twenty-four hours. 

The male buflalo, at this season of the year, is generally fatter than 
the female, unless it be one of the few barren cows that sometimes 
are found in large bands; but, neither is worth boasting of 

After our long fasting and indifierent fare for six entire days, it is 
not marvellous that we improved, with quickened zest, the present op- 
portunity of feasting. 



DIVISION OF PARTY. VlB 

The day following, two parties started in quest of game, — one of which 
killed three bulls, at as many shots, within half an hour after leaving 
camp. 

The other party also killed two, but, in securing one of them, they met 
with an exciting adventure. 

Both animals were extended upon the ground, one entirely and the other 
apparently dead — the hunters, having butchered one of them, proceeded to 
the other, and were in the act of raising him to the right position for the 
commencement of operation. The old fellow, not relishmg the Hke famil- 
iarity from new acquaintances, sprang to his feet, and made a plunge at 
the affrighted hunters, who only escaped the fatal charge by one of those 
admirable feats of quick dodging so often in requisition among moun- 
taineers. 

The bull, passing between them, fell head foremost against the ground, 
two or three feet beyond the spot they had occupied scarcely a second 
previous ; — then rising, with glaring eyes and distended nostrils, and 
mouth foaming with blood and rage, he pursued one of them in hot chase, 
for a distance of several hundred yards. So close was the bull in a few 
leaps, that with a sweep of his horns he gored the hunter's back, tearing 
away his pantaloons and coat, and prostrating him upon all-fours at the 
edge of a deep ravine, down which he tumbled ; — the enraged beast fol- 
lowed, but the force of an unbroken headway landed him, with a tremen- 
dous shock, against the opposite bank, far beyond the hunter. Improve- 
ing the advantage thus gained, the latter escaped through the windings of 
the ravine, and ascended the bank, without the reach of his pursuer. 

Having procured his rifle, after nine more shots had riddled the lights 
of the bull's carcase, the business of butchering was again commenced and 
terminated without further mishap. 

Our stay at this camp was prolonged for three or four days. 

The geological character of the vicinity corresponds very much with 
that previously remarked, and to describe it in full would seem too much 
hke a repetition. I have, perhaps, said sufficient to give the reader a cor- 
rect idea of the prominent characteristics of these parts, and hence, for the 
sake of brevity, shall hereafter forbear further notes upon this subject, 
unless some uniform change or striking peculiarity should call for a 
passing observation. 

Prior to resuming our journey, a disagreement occurred between us rel- 
ative to the proposed route. 

Some were desirous of proceeding southw^ard into the Plains of Lara- 
mie ; thence, bearing eastward to Laramie river, following its valley to Fort 
Platte ; — others were anxious to continue up the Platte to Sweet Water, or 
further, and from thence proceed as circumstances or inclination might 
suggest. 

This difference finally resulted in a division of the party, — four in 
favor of the western, and three of the southern route, — myself being in- 
cluded with tlie former. 

Selecting two pack-mules for the conveyance of provisions and camp- 

8 



114 MOCCASIN MAKING. 

equipage, the day following we mounted our horses and were under way. 
With the exception of myself, the present party consisted of old and ex- 
perienced mountaineers, well acquainted with the country and the nature 
of Indians. Though, in regard to the latter, little danger was apprehen- 
ded at this season of the year, as the Sioux had not yet left their winter 
quarters, and they rarely traverse the vicinity of Sweet Water before the 
middle of May. Other tribes we might look upon as friendly. We, 
therefore, anticipated a safe and pleasant excursion. 

During the day our course led over a rough undulating prairie, bounded 
on the right mostly by the river, and on the left by the mountains. 

In the heads of valleys and ravines I noticed numerous withered stalks 
of the bread-root, (psoralea esculenta,) indicating its great abundance, and 
also an increased quantity of absinthe. 

At night we encamped at the forks of a small stream called La Bonte's 
creek. Near the contluence of its waters with the Platte are the remains 
of a log cabin, occcupied by a trading party several years since. 

The creek is tolerably well timbered, and the valley, through which it 
winds its way, affords many beautiful bottoms of rich soil. The rock in 
the vicinity disclosed a furruginous character, especially the sandstone. 

Among the usual fruit-bearing shrubs and bushes, I here noticed the 
" service berry." 

This kind of fruit is very abundant in the mountainons parts of Oregon, 
where it attains a size but little inferior to the common plum, and is highly 
esteemed for its superior flavor. 

Leaving La Bonte's creek, we travelled by easy stages, for three suc- 
cessive days, and struck camp at the mouth of Deer creek. 

Our course led over several beautiful streams, most of them well tim- 
bered with Cottonwood and box-elder, and occasionally skirted by rich bot- 
toms. Previous to reaching this point we followed along the Platte valley, 
for a distance of some twenty or thirty miles, which presented several fine 
bottoms of rich sandy soil upon either bank, together with numerous 
groves of cottonwood. 

The face of the country is generally a succession of ridges and hol- 
lows, intersected by ravines and small streams of water. 

At Deer creek, and for some distance before ^Teaching it, the mountain 
chain to our left approaches within four or five miles of the river, rising 
abruptly to a height of from eight to fifteen hundred feet, with frowning 
brows and pine-clad summits. 

Deer creek is one of the largest affluents of the Platte, from the south, 
between Sweet Water and Laramie. At this place it is about eight yards 
broad, with a smooth and transparent current that sweeps over a bed of 
rock and gravel. Its banks are well timbered with large cottonwoods, and 
present rich bottoms of alluvial soil, very luxuriant in grass. 

Even this early in the season, the fresh grass of the vicinity affords tempt- 
ing nourishment for our animals, and wishing to favor them as much as 
possible, we have concluded to remain a short time. 

During the succeeding interval we were variously occupied in hunting, 
root-digging, and moccasin-making. The latter is a business in wliich 



A FEAST OF BEAR MEAT. 115 

every mountaineer is necessarily a proficient, and rarely will he venture 
upon a long journey without the appurtenances of his profession. 

The process of shoe-making with him is reduced to its most simple form. 
He merely takes two pieces of bulllilo (or any other suitable) slcin, each 
being a little longer and wider than his foot, particularly towards the 
heel ; these he folds separately, and lays them together parallel with the 
turned edges ; then, rounding and trimming the sides, to render them foot- 
shaped, with an awl and the sinew of buflalo or other animal, or small 
strips of thin deer-skin, (" whang") he sews the vamps from end to end, — 
then after cutting a tongue-like appendage in the upper side, midway from 
heel to toe, and stitching together the posterior parts, his task is done. 

Having obtained a quantity of sap from a grove of box-elders near 
camp, we found it a sweet and pleasant liquid, and not inferior to that of 
maple. Sugar might be manufactured from it, with little trouble. 

The leaves of this tree, as well as the general appearance of its wood, 
greatly assimilate those of maple, and, independent of its bushy tops and 
stunted, winding growth, it would be hard to tell the difierence at a first 
glance. 

Game was plenty on every side, both buffalo, deer, and elk, with some 
few bear. 

The second day after our arrival, one of the latter, attracted by the scent 
of fresh buflTalo meat, ventured within gun-shot of camp. Instantly the 
balls of four rifles were buried in his carcase. Aroused by this feelmg 
salute, he rushed towards us at the top of his speed, when our horses, 
aflTrighted at the strange appearance, broke snorting away over the neigh- 
boring hills, and we ourselves took to trees as fast as possible. 

In the midst of this general consternation a pistol ball, fired by one of 
the party, buried itself in the brains of our troublesome visitor and laid him 
prostrate. 

He was one of a species common to the mountains, called the red bear, 
and must have weighed four or five hundred pounds. The fat upon his 
back was full three inches thick His skin when stretched would have 
compared in size to that of a buflfalo, and the claws of his feet were full three 
inches long. 

At this season of the year, when these animals first leave their dens, 
tney are much the fattest, — a singular circumstance, if we remember the 
fact of their remaining holed up for the entire winter, without eating ! 

After butchering the greasy victim, and bringing our erratic horses back 
to camp, we regaled ourselves with an ample feast of bear's liver, heart, 
and kidneys, basted with fat, — a dish that epicures might well covet. 
Then, filling a large camp-kettle with portions of the " fleece " and ribs, 
we allowed it to boil till the next morning, and thus prepared another deli- 
cious entertainment, such as is rarely met with in any country other than 
this. 

Bear meat, to be tender and good, should be boiled at least ten hours. 
This is probably the most preferable mode of cooking it, though a roast of 
the article is far from bad. 

There are four several varieties of bear found in the Rocky Mountains 



116 NATURE AND HABITS OF THE GRIZZLY BEAR. 

and countries adjacent, viz. : The grizzly bear, the black, the red, and the 
white. 

Of these, the grizzly bear stands pre-eminent in ferocity and strength. 
He will almost invariably flee at the sight or scent of a man, and seldom 
attacks any one unless wounded. When shot, he generally runs at full 
speed towards the sound, and woe to the unfortunate hunter who then 
comes in his way, unless fully prepared for a deadly encounter ! 

This animal reigns prince of the mountains, and every other beast within 
his wide realm acknowledges his supremacy. 

Wolves and panthers dare not approach him, or disturb aught savoring 
of his ownership. Even the carcase of his prey, covered with the earth 
and rock his cautious instinct teaches him to heap upon it for preservation, 
is unmolested, though hundreds of wolves and panthers might be starving 
around. 

Buffalo dread his presence far more than the dangerous approach of 
the hunter, and will sooner bring into requisition their swiftest powers of 
flight on such occasions. With great difficulty a horse can can be per- 
suaded to go within any near distance of one of them, even when led, and 
then he will quail and tremble in every joint, from extreme terror. 

In short, the grizzly bear stalks forth at pleasure, in his majesty and 
strength, lord of the wild solitudes in which he dwells, and none dares op- 
pose him. 

Some writers assert that bears will not prey upon dead carcases, — this 
is contrary to fact. I have often known them take possession of the 
carcases of animals, even when nearly putrid, and remain until they were 
devoured. 

They frequently kill bufTalo, horses, and cattle to gratify their taste for 
animal food, and, in such cases, always drag their prey to some convenient 
spot, and perform the task of burial by heaping upon it piles of rock or 
earth, to a depth of several feet, for protection against the voracity of other 
beasts of prey. It is not uncommon, even, that they drag the entire carcase 
of a full-grown bull a distance of several hundred yards, by the horns, for 
this purpose, — so great is their strength and so accute their sagacity. 



117 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering.-— 
Close contest. — A comical incident.— Cross Platte.— Canon camp.— Sage trees, — 
Mountain sheep, and all about them.— Independence Rock ; why so called, and 
description of it.— Devil's Gate.— Landscape scenery. 

The adventure recorded in the preceding chapter called forth the re- 
hearsal of many thrilling stories of frightful encounter with tliat proud 
monarch of the mountains, the grizzly bear. Two or three of these it may 
not be uninteresting to transcribe. 

Several years since, an old trapper by the name of Glass, with his com- 
panion, while on an excursion, came upon a large grizzly bear. 

Bruin, having received the salute of two rifle.-^, as usual, rushed towards 
his uncivil assailants, who broke from him with all possible despatch. But 
Glass, stumbling, fell prostrate in his flight, and before he could recover his 
feet the infuriated beast was upon him. 

Now commenced a death-struggle. The pistols of the hunter were both 
discharged in quick succession, — the ball of one entering the breast of his 
antagonist, and that of the other grazing his back. 

Smarting and maddened by the pain of additional wounds, the bleeding 
monster continued the conflict with the fury of desperation, — tearing from 
the limbs and body of the unfortunate man large pieces of trembling flesh, 
and lacerating him with the deep thrusts of his teeth and claws. 

Meanwdiile the sufferer maintained, with his butcher-knife, an obstinate 
defence, though with fast waning effort and strength. Finally, enfeebled 
by the loss of blood, and exhausted from the extraordinary exertions of a 
desperate and unequal contest, he was unable to oppose further resis- 
tance, and quietly resigned himself to his fate. 

The bear, too, with the thick blood oozing from his numerous wounds, 
and faint from the many stabs among his veins and sinews, seemed 
equally in favor of a suspension of hostilities ; and, extending himself 
across the hunter's back, he remained motionless for two hours or 
more. 

But now another enemy commences an assault upon his vitals — that 
enemy is death. In vain is defensive eflbrt. In vain are all his struggles. 
He fails by the hunter's side a lifeless corse. 

The setting sun had cast his lurid glare upon the ensanguined spot, as 
the comrade of the miserable Glass ventured near to ascertain the result 
of the fierce encounter. 

There lay the body of his deserted friend, stretched out, apparently life- 
less and half-torn to pieces ; and, by its side, lay the carcase of that ene- 
my, which had waged with it such murderous war, cold and stiffened in 
deatli ! 

Now, doubly terrified at his loneliness, but still governed by sordid mo- 



118 A CLOSE CONTEST. 

tives, he stripped the former of his arms and every other valuable, then no 
longer needed (as he supposed) by their owner, and, mounting his horse, 
started immediately for the nearest trading post. 

On his arrival he recounted the particulars of the fatal occurrence, — 
carefully concealing, however, his own criminal conduct. The story was 
accredited, and the name of Glass found place upon the long catalogue of 
those who had fallen a prey to wild beasts and savage men. 

Six weeks elapsed and no one thought of the subject of our sketch as 
among the living. The general surprise, therefore, may be readily im.ag- 
ined, on opening the fort-gates one morning, at finding before tliem the 
poor, emaciated form of a man, half-naked, and covered with wounds and 
running sores, and so torn the fleshless bones of his legs and thighs were 
exposed to view in places ! and how this astonishment was heighten- 
ed on recognizing the person of Glass in the illy defined lineaments of his 
countenance — the very man so long regarded as the inhabitant of another 
world ! A veritable ghost suddenly appearing upon the spot could not have 
occasioned greater wonder ! 

But, sensations of pity and commiseration quickly succeeded those of 
surprise, and the unhappy sufferer was conveyed within doors and received 
from the hands of friends tliat careful attention his situation so much re- 
quired. 

The story of his misfortunes was thrillingly interesting. When left by 
his companion for dead, he was in a state of unconsciousness, with scarce- 
ly the breath of life retained in his mangled body. But, the soft night- 
wind stanched his wounds, and a slight sleep par:ially revived him from 
his death-like stupor. 

With the morning, the slight sensations of hunger he began to ex- 
perience were appeased from the raw flesh of the carcase at his side; 
and, thus strengthened, by a slow and tedious effort he was enabled to 
reach a near stream and quench his thirst. Still further revived, he 
again crawled to the carcase at the demands of appetite. 

In this manner he continued for three days, when the putrescent 
corse compelled him to abandon it. 

Then it was he commenced his tedious return to the fort, (some 
seventy miles distant,) which he performed during an interval of forty 
successive days ! The whole of this long stretch he crawled upon his 
hands and knees, — subsisting, for the meanwhile, only upon insects, such 
as chance threw in his way, but passing most of the time without one 
morsel with which to appease the gnawings of hunger or renew his 
wasted strength. 

Yet, great as were his sufferings and intolerable as they may seem, 
he survived them all, and, by the kind attention of friends, soon recov- 
ered. 

He still lives in the town of Taos, New Mexico, and frequently re- 
peats to wondering listeners the particulars of this terrific and painful 
adventure. 

One of our party, whose right hand was much disabled from the effects 
of a wound, now told his story. 

For several years succeeding his first arrival in the Rocky Mountains, 



A COMICAL INCIDENT. 119 

he had permitted no opportunity of killing any one of the various species 
of bear, common to these regions, to pass unimproved. Never did he think 
of fearing them, and was always the last to retreat in case of a charge. 

When a bear appeared within any reasonable shooting distance »f 
our hunter, it almost invariably fell a victim to his unerring aim. But, e'-e- 
long, this spirit of bold-daring proved the source of lasting regret to its 
possessor. 

On the occasion alluded to, having shot at one of these animals, contra- 
ry to his usual good luck, he only wounded' it. 

The bear in turn now became the assailant, but received the contents of 
two pistols before it had time to advance far. Our hunter at this crisis 
sprang to a neighboring pine, which he commenced climbing. His pursu- 
er, gaining the tree almost as soon, likewise began its ascent. 

Here occurred a struggle between them — the man to force his way up- 
wards, and the bear to prevent him. The former, drawing his butcher- 
knife, thrust it at the eyes and nose of his antagonist. Not fancying buch 
'pointed hints upon a delicate subject, Mr. Bruin caught hold of the hunter's 
hand, and, as an earnest of deep sensitiveness, crushed it between his teeth, 
— nor even then relinquished the gripe. Transferred to the left hand, the 
knife continued its work, till the sickening beast commenced sliding down- 
ward — dragging the poor hunter also to the ground. Both struck at the 
same time ; but, at that instant, the knife of the latter pierced the heart of 
his antagonist, and laid him dead at his feet. 

The unfortunate man, however, lost two of his fingers in the affray, and 
his hand was otherwise so much injured he has never since recovered its 
use. 

Another story related at the same time, though not possessing the deep 
and thrilling interest of the preceding ones, partakes a littJe of the ludircous, 
and will doubtless amuse the reader. 

The narrator a while since formed one of a trapping party, with which 
he proceeded to the Utah country. While there, on a certain occasion, 
having set his traps over night, he returned to examine them the next 
morning, in quest of beaver, and, to his surprise, one of them was missing. 
After cautiously examining the premises, under the impression that some 
lurking Indians had stolen his trap with its contents, he noticed the tracks of 
bears, near by, which served at once to unravel the whilom mystery of its 
disappearance. 

He now began to muse upon his loss, as, without the missing trap, his 
set would be rendered incomplete, and, under present circumstances, the 
want of the thing was more than the worth of it. While thus ruminating, 
a slight noise, among neighboring cherry-bushes and cottonwood, caught 
his ear, which sounded like some one beating with two sticks. 

This induced him to approach for the purpose of ascertaining the cause, 
v^^hen an opening revealed to view Mr. Bruin seated upon a log and hold- 
ing to his face the missing trap, tightly clasped to his fore-paw. 

The bear appeared to be regarding the strange instrument with close 
attention, as if to study into the principles of its construction ; — now gazing 
at it endwise, then bringing its side in close proximity to his eyes ; then 
turning it over to examine the opposite one ; — now, he would essay its 



120 HUNTING CAMP. 

strength, and lightly taps it upon the log. But this is a painful operation, — 
lie relinquishes it, and resumes his former grotesque movements. 

Watching this curious performance, the trapper could scarcely retain 
his gravity, or master his fondness for the ludicrous sufficiently for the in- 
tended shot. He did, however, and the comedy was suddenly transformed 
to a tragedy, by leaving its actor struggling in death. 

A light fall of snow during the last of our stay at Deer creek, rendered 
the ground quite muddy and soft ; notwithstanding which we resumed our 
course early in the morning of the fourth day. 

Continuing on, a ride of thirty miles brought us to the place where the 
Oregon trail crosses the Platte ; and, after fording the river, we encamped 
upon the opposite side. 

The stream, at this point, is about three hundred yards from bank to 
bank, and, at the time of our crossing it, swimming deep for a small por- 
tion of the way. 

In ordinary stages, the water is but little over three feet deep, and the 
ford perfectly safe and practicable. The partial melting of the mountain 
snows had increased the size and velocity of its current, and rendered our 
passage slightly dangerous and difficult. The bed appeared to be rocky, 
and in some places rough, — requiring much caution in crossing waggons, 
to prevent them from overturning. 

On the third day following, we arrived at another remarkable canon, after 
travelling a distance of thirty-five or forty miles. Here, finding large 
numbers of mountain sheep, we were induced to remain a short time. 

Our course for most of this distance was confined to the valley of the 
Platte, on account of the greater supply of wood found upon its banks. 

Towards noon of the first day, we passed a point, called the " Red 
Buttes," at which the river cuts its way through a lofty ridge of hills. 
This passage left a considerable bank upon both sides, shut in by abrupt 
walls of red argillaceous sandstone, towering to the height of several 
hundred feet. 

The soil was generally a mixture of clay and sand, and, in some places, 
afforded a reddish loam which appeared to be very rich. 

A short ride from the " Red Buttes " took us across a beautiful stream, 
with a broad bottom, well timbered with cottonwood. 

Large herds of bufl:alo were continually in sight upon the whole route. 

Several miles previous to reaching the canon, my notice was first attracted 
to the extraordinary size attained by the wild sage ; it having merged its shrub- 
like appearance into that of trees varying from five to ten feet in height and 
from twenty to twenty-five inches in circumference at the root. 

The magnificent dimensions of this herb are retained for a large extent 
of territory to the south and west of this vicinity. It is frequently made 
use of for fire-wood, and the prairies, in many places, are covered with 
beautiful groves of it, — perfuming the atmosphere and revelling in peren- 
nial verdure. 

The canon before referred to, is caused by the river passing through a 
chain of hills, for a reach of nearly half a mile. 



MOUNTAIN SHEEP. 121 



The current is here shut in by banks of perpendicular rock, four or five 
hundred feet high, which sometimes overhang it, and leave a narrow space 
of scarcely two hundred feet for its bed. These consist principally of 
white cretaceous sandstone, soft and friable, and frequently present to view 
the appearance of regular mason-work. 

During our stay we succeeded in killing five mountain sheep. Some of 
these were very large and quite fat. 

The flesh of this animal is equal in flavor to that of buffalo. It is gener- 
ally in good order, tender and sweet, and slightly assimilates our common 
mutton in taste. 

The habits and appearance of mountain sheep resemble those of no 
other animal. 

They select for their favorite habitation the rugged fastnesses of wild and 
inaccessible mountains. In the cold of winter, they descend to some of 
the numerous valleys that so beautifully diversify the scenery of these re- 
gions, where the verdure of spring so rarely fades ; and, as the warm sea- 
son advances, they commence their return towards the lofty snow- 
peaks, keeping even progress v/ith spring and fresh flowers along the 
mountain-sides. 

Theirs is a life of unbroken spring — beauty and grandeur are their 
dwelling .place, — and, 'mid the awe-inspiring sublimity of nature's works, 
is their home. They gambol upon the fearful verge of the steep cliflT, or 
climb its perpendicular sides, bidding defiance to all pursuers. There, 
secure from enemies, they rear their young, and teach them to leap from 
crag to crag in mirtiiful gaiety, or traverse the dizzy heights in quest of the 
varied sweets of changeful spring. 

These animals are remarkably acute of sight, and quick of seent and 
hearing. The least noise or tainture of the air excites their attention and 
places them instantly upon the alert. Mounting upon some high rock, 
they will stand for hours in the same posture, gazing in the direction of 
the fancied danger. If fully satisfied of its reality, they abandon their 
position for another and a safer one, high among more rugged peaks, and 
often beyond the possibihty of offensive approach. Their hue is so akin 
to that of the rocks which grace their range, they are with difficulty 
identified when standing motionless, and the hunter is constantly liable to 
mistake the one for the other. 

In size the mountain sheep is larger than the domestic animal of that 
name, and its general appearance is in every respect dissimilar — excepting 
the head and horns. The latter appendage, however, alike belongs to the 
male and female. Tlie horns of th6 female are about six inches long, 
small, pointed, and somewhat flat, — but those of the male grow to an enor- 
mous size. 1 have frequently killed them having horns that measured two 
feet and a half or three feet in length, and from eighteen to nineteen inches 
in circumference at the base. 

These ponderous members are of great service to their owner in descend- 
ing the abrupt precipii es, which his habits so often render necessary. In 
leaping from an elevation he uniformly strikes upon the curve of his horns, 
and i lius saves himself from the shock of a sudden and violent contussion. 

The color of these animals varies from a yellowish white, to a dark 



122 DEVIL'S GATE. 

brown, or even black. A strip of snowy whiteness extends from ham to 
ham, including the tail, which is short and tipped with black. 

Instead of wool, they are covered with hair, which is shed annually. 
Their cry is much like that of domestic sheep, and the same natural odor 
is common to both. 

It is extremely difficult to capture any of them alive, even while young-, 
— and it is next to impossible to make them live and thrive in any other 
climate than their own. Hence, the mountain sheep has never yet found 
a place in our most extensive zoological collections. 

Remaining three days at this place, we were again en route, and, bear- 
ing to the right, passed over a ridge of rough, rocky summits, and struck 
the valley of the Sweet Water. Continuing up the latter, a short ride 
brought us to the vicinity of a noted landmark of the country, known as 
Independence Rock, where we encamped. 

The soil of the river bottoms is good, but the adjoining prairies are 
sandy and somewhat sterile. 

The distance from this to the canon is not far from twenty-three miles. 

Independence Rock is a solid and isolated mass of naked granite, situated 
about three hundred yards from the right bank of the Sweet Water. It 
covers an area of four or five acres, and rises to a height of nearly three hun- 
dred feet. The general shape is oval, with the exception of a slight depres- 
sion in its summit where a scanty soil supports a few shrubs and a 
solitary dwarf-pine. 

It derives its name from a party of Americans on their way to Oregon, 
under the lead of one Tharp, who celebrated the fourth of July at this 
place, — they being the first company of whites that ever made the jour- 
ney from the States, via South Pass. 

The surface is covered with the names of travellers, traders, trap- 
pers, and emigrants, engraven upon it in almost every practicable part, for 
the distance of many feet above its base, — but most prominent among them 
all is the word " Independence," inscribed by the patriotic band who first 
christened this lonely monument of nature in honor of Liberty's birthday. 

I went to the rock for the purpose of recording my name with the 
swohen catalogue of others traced upon its sides ; but, having glanced over 
the strange medley, I became disgusted, and, turning away, resolved, "If 
there reynains no other mode of hnmortaiizing myself, I will be content to 
descend to the grave ' unhonored and unsung.'' " 

The day following, a heavy f^ill of snow and sleet forced us to remain 
in camp, and the consequent muddiness of the route prolonged our stay 
still further. 

The vicinity afforded an abundance of game and a sufficiency of dry fuel ; 
it would, therefore, have been folly in us to care for wind or weather, 
detracting as did either so little from our comfort. 

During this interval I rode into the prairie a short distance, in quest of 
game, and struck the river a few miles above camp, at a place where the 
stream cuts its way through a high ridge of hills, forming another canon 



RETURN ROUTE. 123 



of three or four hundred yards in length and about forty broad, called the 
Devil's Gate, as I afterwards ascertained. 

Its walls arose perpendicularly to a height of between four and five hun- 
dred feet, and consisted of trap rock, sandstone, and granite. 

Dismounting, I ascended to the summit, where a grand and picturesque 
scenery burst upon the view. 

Above, the broad valley of the Sweet Water stretched far away to the 
westward, bounded on either side by frowning mountains, that, towering 
to the height of fifteen hundred or two thousand feet, present their snowy 
summ.its in proud defiance of wind or storm, and laugh at the impotency 
of a summer's sun ; — on the south, shaking their piny tops in scornful 
derision ; and, on the north, with denuded crests of broken granite, chal- 
lenging the lightnings of heaven and wooing its loudest thunders ; — while 
further along, the clouds played in humble sportiveness around the base of 
the great chain dividing the waters of two oceans, nor dared ascend its 
dizzy heights to range amid eternal snow. 

Below, in silent grandeur, arose to view the grantic mass that responds 
to the day-dawn of a nation's existence, surmounted by its lone pine, and 
bearing upon its broad register the sculptured names of the audacious 
disturbers of its solitude ; and further yet, the parti-colored peaks of the 
Black Hills, now white with fresh-fallen snow, now darkened with clus- 
tering pines, seemed musing in modest retirement; while far around, in 
every spot accessible to discriminating vision, dense herds of grazing buf- 
falo covered the prairie with their pall-like mantle of countless numbers. 

It was indeed a magnificent prospect, and needed only the garnishing 
hand of spring to render it at as enchanting in loveliness as it was impres- 
sive in wild sublimity. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Return route. — Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass.— 
Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. — Mountain Fowl.— Journey up Medicine 
Bow. — Dangerous country. — A fight with the Sioux. — The " Carcague." — A. sur- 
prise. — Visit to the Crow village. — Number and character of the Crow nation — 
Selling a prisoner for tobacco. — Description of Laramie Plains. 

Previously to leaving this place, considerable discussion arose relative 
to our future course. 

The proposition was to continue up the Sweet Water valley to the 
dividing ridge at the head of Green river, and return by the same rouj;e ; — 
versus the suggestion to cross the Sweet Water and proceed up the Platte 
to the conflueiice of a large tributary from the south ; thence, keeping by 
the valley of the latter stream as far as the Medicine Bow Mountains, re 
turn to the Fort by the way of Laramie river. 



124 VICINITY OF THE MEDICINE BOW. 

The fast melting of the snow, and anticipated difficulties, not to say- 
dangers, consequent upon high water in the passage of creeks and rivers, 
influenced us to adopt the latter as the most advisable course. 

Such was the final decision, and, the men with me being familiarly 
acquainted with every nook and corner of the adjacent country, I improved 
the opportunity to elicit from them all possible information relative to the 
Oregon route from this onward ; and, never having personally travelled 
from Independence Rock to the head of Green river, it may not be out of 
place to lay before the reader a succinct statement of some of the items 
thus gleaned. 

The distance from this point to the famous South Pass is but little over 
one hundred miles. The trail follows the Sweet Water to its source, 
keeping the river valley for most of the distance. This valley consists of 
an undulating prairie, (at intervals rough,) varying in width from the 
narrow limits of a few yards to the more ample dimensions of four or five 
miles. 

Sometimes, the adjoining hills close in upon the river banks and force 
the trail among their rugged windings. In one place the road leads over a 
high stretch of table land for nearly a day's travel, when it again descends 
to the valley. 

The stream, in places, is tolerably well timbered with cottonwood, oak, 
and aspen, and rolls over a rocky bed, with a clear and swift current. 

The distance through the pass is about fifteen miles, and the ascent 
and descent are so gradual the traveller would scarcely notice the transi- 
tion from the head of the Sweet Water to that of the Colorado. The hills 
at this point are low, and the face of the country rolling — but not rough, 
affording at all times a most excellent waggon road. 

On the morning of the fourth day, we accordingly retraced our course, 
and, having traversed a rugged and hilly country for some ten or twelve 
miles, we camped in a small open prairie at the mouth of the Sweet 
Wat r. 

During our ride we noticed several large bands of wild sheep, at inter- 
vals, gazing upon us from huge masses of granite that towered with 
isolated summits to a frequent altitude of sixty or one hundred feet. 

The next morning, we crossed the Sweet Water a little above its 
mouth. 

The ford was quite feasible, the stream being some ten yards wide and 
three or four feet deep, with a bed of sand and pebbles. 

From this point, travelling up the Platte for about ten miles or more, 
we arrived opposite the creek previously alluded to, and, crossing at a shoal 
place a short distance above, camped in a grove of cottonwood and 
willows, at the delta formed by the confluence of the two streams. 

There are several bottoms of very rich soil in this vicinity ; but back 
from the river the country is rough and hilly. 

Westward the Sweet Water mountains, distant some ten miles, showed 
their craggy peaks, and to the north and east the piny crests of the Black 
Hills burst upon the sight; while southward, a succession of high, rolling 
prairies opened to view a variety of romantic and beautiful scenery. 



A FIGHT WITH THE SIOUX. 125 

We remained at this place the two following days, for the purpose of 
huntincr. Game of all kinds appeared in great abundance, particularly 
elk. At several points among the willows near the river were noticed 
fresh signs of beaver, and among the hills the recent marks of bear in 
digging for roots. 

A large bird called the mountain fowl, quite common to these parts, was 
the occasion of some little curiosity, being the first of its species I ever 
saw. This bird is rather larger than our domestic hen, and of a grayish 
brown color. Little accustomed to the presence of man, it easily falls a 
prey to the hunter. Its flesh is tender and most excellent in flavor. 

Having obtained a fresh supply of meat, we resumed our course. 

Continuing up the right bank of the creek (which I have named Medi- 
cine Bow, for lack of a better term) and travelling by easy stages four 
successive days, we arrived at its head, — a distance of more than fifty 
rniles above its junction with the Platte. 

Many beautiful bottoms skirted the banks of this stream, which were 
well timbered with cottonwood, aspen, birch, willow, box-elder, and some 
few pines. The soil is generally of a reddish loam, and the luxuriant size of 
the dead grass, together with the rank verdure of the present season, gave 
evidence of its richness and fecundity. 

I was pleased to observe not a few wild flowers, of rare beauty, in full 
bloom, lending their fragrance to the breath of spring, and blushing at the 
admiration challenged by their loveliness. 

On the right lay a broad expanse of undulating prairie, covered with 
stately clusters of absinthe, and disclosing every variety of soil, from the 
rude sterility of an African desert to the rich productiveness of a garden ; — 
on the left, the mountains, increasing in altitude, jutted their craggy sides 
in close proximity to the creek — now disclosing immense piles of granite, 
with red argillaceous, grayish micaceous, dark ferruginous, and white 
calcareous sandstone, limestone, and coarse-grained conglomerates, naked 
and variegated with almost every diversity of color, — and now, surmounted 
by stunted pines and cedars, or tower-ng balsam, hemlock and pinion ; 
and in front, the lofty peaks of Medicine Bow, rearing tlieir snowy heads 
beyond the clouds, opposed an eternal barrier to further prospect. 

As we passed along, I noticed three or four small branches that emptied 
into the creek from the opposite side, and, just before reaching our present 
encampment, we crossed three others from the right, all of them well tim- 
bered and graced by rich valleys and yrairillons. 

This section of country, being the great war-ground between the Sioux 
and Chyennes on the one side, and the Snakes and Crows on the other, is 
considered dangerous, particularly from May till November of each year. 
During that time it is extremely unsafe for a white man to venture within 
its confines, unless protected by a strong force. 

A small creek at our right, became the scene of a bloody tragedy two 
months subsequent to our visit. 

Three trappers, with whom I became acquainted upon my return to the 
Fort, tempted by the abundance of fur-bearing game common to the 
vicinity, came here for the purpose of making a summer hunt. While 
Buccessfully pursuing their occupation, unsuspicious of immediate danger, 



126 LARAMIE PASS. 

they were suddenly surrounded, early one morning, by a war-party of Sioux, 
whose first salute was a discharge of fire-arms, accompanied by a shower 
of arrows and the sharp thunder of deafening yells. 

Two of them fell dead. The remaining one retreated to a hollow tree, 
close at hand, into which he crawled ; and, though severely wounded, 
maintained from it an obstinate resistance till near sundown, — keep'ng at 
bay the whole host of savage assailants, and thinning their numbers, one 
by one, with the deadly discharge of his unerring rifle. 

Six warriors lay stiffened in death, and as many more had felt the burn- 
ing smart of wounds, — one of the latter having had his tongue shot out, close 
to its roots ! — and still he continued the unequal contest. 

His triumph would have been complete had not the remorseless crew, as 
a last resort, set fire to the woods and burned him from the shell-like for- 
tress from which they could not drive him. 

He fell with his companions, mingling his own blood with that of their 
murderers ; and the scalps of the three were treasured among the horrid 
trophies of savage victory. 

Of these unfortunate men, one, named Wheeler, was a Pennsylvanian ; 
another, named Cross Eagle, was a Swede; and the third, name not re- 
membered, was a native of France. They were men of noble hearts and 
much esteemed by all who knew them. 

In the neighborhood I noticed many indications of coal, of which there 
appeared to be extensive beds, as well as iron and mineral salts. 

Continuing on, a short ride brought us to the pass-trail, following which, 
after travelling a few miles by a road intercepted by frequent ravines be- 
tween a defile of mountains, we were finally ushered into the broad prairie, 
opening eastward, known as the Plains of Laramie. 

The mountains upon both sides were heavily coated with snow, which 
intruded to the trail, while groves of pine and aspen relieved the eye in 
scanning their rough escarpments. 

The prevailing rock appeared to be a compact red granite, with occasional 
strata of sandstone. 

While winding among the ravines and aspen groves, we obtained an in- 
distinct view of a strange-looking, dark-colored animal, that my companions 
pronounced a " carcague." 

Of the character, or even the existence of such a creature, I cannot 
speak from positive knowledge — this, if one, not being sufficiently near for 
a scrutinizing observation, and no other of its kind ever came in my way ; 
but, in answer to inquiries, I am enabled to give the following description, — 
for the correctness of which, however, I will not vouch, though, for my own 
part, inclined to accredit it. . 

The " carcague " is a native of the Rocky Mountains, and of a family 
and species found in no other part of the world as yet known. He seems 
a distinct genus, partaking the mixed nature of the wolf and bear, but is far 
more ferocious than either. 

His color is a jet black, hair long and coarse, and body trim and slender. 
His head and neck are like those of a wolf, but his tail and feet assimilate 
he bear, and his body presents the marked qualities and appearance of both. 



A SURPRISE. 127 

In size, he is considerably larger than . the common cur-dog, and is more 
agile in his movements. Unlike the bear, he will not run from the presence 
or scent of man, and regards the " lord of creation " with neither fear nor 
favor. Hence he is looked upon as a creature much to be dreaded by all 
who are anywise conversant with his character and existence. 

The representatives of his family are seldom met with, which affords the 
principal reason why so little, comparatively, is known of his nature and 
habits. 

If the information contained in the above description is correct, (and that • 
it is so, I have not the least doubt,) the "carcagae " presents, either the ex- 
traordinary phenomenon of the creation of a new race of wild beasts, or, 
the living relics of an order now almost extinct ; and, whether he be the one 
or the other, his existence is vested with deep interest to all lovers of the 
marvellous. 

An old trapper related the following story, soon after the incident above 
noticed, which will serve to give some idea of this ferocious animal : 

A party of hunters, at their night camp, were seated around a large fire, 
at whose side were fixed several pieces of meat, en appolas, for the purpose 
of roasting. All were waiting patiently the kind office of the fire in the 
preparation of their longed-for suppers, when, attracted by the fumes of 
the cooking viands, a " carcague " came bounding from the mountain-side, 
directly over their heads, and made for the roasts, with which he disappeared 
before even a shot could be fired in their defence. 

Thus bold and daring is their nature, and so little is their regard for the 
presence of man. 

Bearing southward, in the course of a few miles we came to a large 
creek, and camped early in the afternoon, near the base of a lofty mountain 
of the Medicine Bow range. 

In this vicinty were the relics of three Indians forts. On the banks of 
the stream was an abundance of timber of various kinds ; the bottoms 
were broad and of a rich soil, shut in by abrupt acclivities that lead to the 
arid plains through which the creek traces its way. 

Game appeared in great abundance in all directions, and seemed more 
than usually tame and accessible. 

Soon after camping, three of us went in quest of a fresh supply of eat- 
ables, and, towards night, returned with the choice portions of a buffalo 
and a black-tailed dear. 

The valley also afforded large quantities of wild onions, which were 
shooting forth with singular luxuriance. 

We passed the night in quiet slumber, neither of us dreaming of the 
possible existence of human beings, other than ourselves, within a less 
distance than one hundred miles. 

In the morning, however, we were awakened by the wild yell of savages, 
and, on looking to ascertain the cause, saw a dense throng of painted 
monsters surrounding us, who were whooping, screeching, and dancing in 
a most terrific and fantastic manner. Seizing our guns, we levelled at the 
foremost of them, who immediately sheathed their bows and made the sign 
of friendship and their nation. 



128 A TEMPERANCE NATION. 

They were Crows, and, having discovered us the afternoon before, now 
camo for a morning call. 

The chief of the band bore the name of Little Robber, and was a large, 
portly, well-made man, as, in fact, were all his party. He was recognized 
by one of us as an old acquaintance, and was greeted as such, w hen several 
of his people came forward to shake hands, and we were soon on most 
friendly terms. 

They informed us, by means of signs, that they were advancing against 
the Sioux, and their village was encamped upon a neighboring creek, a 
little to the right, — after which they insisted upon our accompanying them 
to it. 

Not waiting for further ceremony, they drove up our horses and com- 
menced saddling them. Supposing it useless to resist, we yielded compli- 
ance to their wishes, and, in about an hour's ride, came to the village. 
Here we were inducted to the chief's lodge, where commenced a series ot 
feastings peculiar to Indians on occasions like this. 

The Crows are a nation living upon the waters of the Yellow -stone, at 
a distance of about four hundred miles west-northwest of Fort Platte. 
Their number embraces not far from four hundred and fifty or five hundred 
lodges, being something near four thousand men, women, and children. 

Ten or twelve years since they were enemies to the whites, but, more 
recently, have been on friendly terms. 

They never kill or injure the white man who comes within their power, 
and rarely take from him anything without returning for it an equivalent. 
For instance, — they may take his robe, horse, or gun ; but, in that case, 
they will return another robe, horse, or gun ; acting upon the principle 
that " excliange is no robbery," even though it be compulsory. 

Less contaminated by intercourse with the whites than most mountain 
tribes, they will tolerate the importation of liquor among them upon no con- 
sideration, not even by traders for their own individual use. Whenever it 
is ascertained that any one in their vicinity, whether white man or Indian, 
is in possession of that article, they take it from him, if necessary, by force, 
and pour it upon the ground. 

Their bitter hatred of this vile stuff, is said to have resulted in the fol- 
lowing strange manner : 

The whites, as usual, came lirst among them bringing alcohol; and, at a 
feast given to the chiefs, soon after, several of the latter became intoxicated 
from too lavish potations of the new and curious drink. 

In common with inebriates of civilized society, they acted very foolishly, 
and, on appearing before their people, the drunken chiefs became the sub- 
ject of ridicule. This so shamed them, that, upon the return of sobriety, 
they could not be persuaded to taste another drop, and thereafter made use 
of their united influence to prevent its introduction and sale. 

Ever since the above occurrence, alcohol has received, from the Crows, 
the appellation of " FooVs Water'' a term at once attesting their nice 
moral discernment and good sense. 

Several years since, a missionary, on visiting them, began through 
an interpreter to rehearse the story how sin tirst came into the world, 
and how all men had become bad — whether white or red. 



CROW WAR PARTY. 129 

Thus premised, he proceeded to explain the great truths of Chris- 
tianity, and averred that he had come to do them good, and to tell them 
how to be happy ; asserting that, unless they listened to him and wor- 
shipped the Good Spirit in the manner he pointed out, they could never, 
at death, reach that happy country into which good people alone find 
admittance. 

One of the chiefs upon this arose and made the following reply : 

" My white brother is a stranger to us. He talks bad of us, and he talks 
bad of his own people. 

" He does this because he is ignorant. He thinks my people, like his, 
are wicked. Thus far he is wrong ! 

" Who were they that killed the very good man of whom he tells us ? 
None of them were red men ! 

" The red man will die for good men, who are his friends ; — he will not 
kill them ! 

" Let my pale-face brother talk to the white man — his own people — they 
are very bad. He says, he would do us good ! He does no good to chide 
us and say we are very bad. 

" True we are bad ; and were we bad as the pale-faces it would become 
us to listen to him ! 

" Would my brother do us good ? Then, let him tell us how to make 
powder and we will believe in the sincerity of his professions ; — but let him 
not belie us by saying we are bad like the pale-faces !" 

These Indians rarely kill the women and children of an enemy when in 
their power, and, in this particular, they show themselves unUke most of 
the wild tribes found on the American continent. 

They are a brave and noble people, prosecuting their endless hostilities 
against the Sioux and Blackfeet, (the only nations with whom they are at 
variance,) not so much to gratify an innate love for war, as from a just 
hatred of the meanness of those they war against. 

In the summer of 1842, a war-party of some two hundred Crows inva- 
ded the Sioux country by way of Laramie pass, and penetrated as far as 
Fort Platte, and beyond, in pursuit of their enemy. 

A few miles above the Fort, having met with a lone French engage, who 
was rather green in all that pertains to Indians as well as some other 
things, they began by signs to enquire of him the whereabouts of the La- 
cotas, (the sign for them being a transverse pass of the right front-finger 
across the throat.) 

The poor Frenchman, mistaking this for the avowed intention of cutting 
his throat, commenced bellowing a la calf, accompanying the music by an 
industrious appliance of crosses in double-quick time — not forgetting to 
make use of sundry most earnest invocations of the blessed Virgin to gra- 
ciously vouchsafe to him deliverance from impending danger. 

The Indians, perceiving his strange conduct to be the result of fear, felt 
disposed to have a little fun at his expense; so, mounting him upon ahorse, 
they bound his hands and feet and guarded him to a post of the Ameri- 
can Fur Company as a prisoner. 



130 PLAINS OF LARAMIE. 

The Fort gates being closed against them, they demanded admittance 
on the plea of wishing to trade. 

"What would you buy ?" asked the commandant. 

" Tobacco." 

" What have you brought to pay for it ?" 

" A white man." 

" A white man ?" exclaimed the former ; " at what price ?" 

" Oh, he is not worth much. A plug of tobacco is his full value !" con- 
tinued the warriors. 

The commandant now began to understand the joke; and, on recognizing 
the prisoner as an employee of the other Fort, he told them they might 
possibly find a market for him at the next post, but for his own part he was 
not disposed to purchase. 

The Indians then paraded around the Fort, and, after saluting its in- 
mates with throe deafening whoops, proceeded at full charge towards Fort 
Platte. 

When arrived, having prostrated two scaffolds of dead Sioux by the 
way, they informed the person in charge, that they had brought back one 
of his men, and claimed from him a plug of tobacco for their trouble. 
The circumstances attending this request were of so comical a nature, the 
commandant felt disposed to humor the joke, and gave the tobacco, upon 
which they immediately left in pursuit of their enemies. 

Having remained prisoners to the hospitality of these Indians for two 
days and a half, we were at length permitted again to resume our journey. 

Following the creek downwards for the two days next succeeding, and 
then bearing to the left, after a ride of some twelve miles, we struck Lara- 
mie river at a point which presented broad bottoms upon each side v\ith an 
abundance of timber; here we remained encamped till the subsequent day. 

In journeying thus far, we passed over a sufficient extent of this broad 
expanse to give a general descriptiojx of it, from personal observation coup- 
led with information derived from others more experienced. 

The Plains of Laramie are bounded north and east by the Black Hills, 
south by a ridge of naked elevations, (composed of soft, arenaceous rock 
and terrene limestone, embedded in marl and white clay, sterile and almost 
entirely destitute of vegetation,) and west by the Medicine Bow Moun- 
tains. 

This section includes an area one hundred and sixty miles long by 
seventy broad. 

The northern portion of it is a high plateau, almost destitute of springs 
or streams of water, having a mixed soil of clay and sand, producing the 
grass and other peculiarities incident to the grand prairies. Westerly, it 
is composed of red sand and gravel, tolerably fertile and abundant in rocky 
fragments. The southern portion is watered by a number of streams that 
rise in the Medicine Bow Mountains and flow eastward ; some of them 
pouring their waters into Laramie river, and others losing themselves in 
the sand. 

Towards the southwestern extremity, at the base of a lofty, isolated 
mountain, is a salt lake of considerable dimensions. Several other lakes 



INCIDENTAL REMARKS. 331 

are also found adjacent to the Medicine Bow Mountains, whose waters 
are strongly impregnated with mineral salts. 

In numerous places the surface, for small distances, is entirely naked 
and whitened with saline efflorescences, that vie in their appearance with 
the unspotted purity of fresh-fallen snow. 

The Laramie river * traces its way through the whole extent, — rising in 
the southern extremity of the Medicine Bow Mountains and in the desolate 
highlands that form the dividing ridge between its own and the waters of 
Cache a la Poudre, and, after flowing a distance of some three hundred 
miles, discharges itself into the Platte, 

Upon this river and its branches are many beautiful bottoms of rich al- 
luvial soil, well adapted to cultivation, varying from five to ten miles in 
length, and from two to five in breadth. These bottoms are to some ex- 
tent well supphed with timber, consisting of ash, elm, cottonwood, box- 
elder, and willow, while the adjacent mountains and hills afford pine, cedar, 
and balsam. 

Of the various kinds of wild fruits and berries are found cherries, plums, 
currants, gooseberries, service-berries, buffalo-berries, and some few 
grapes ; among its vegetables and roots are the bread-root, pomme blanc, 
onions, and commote. 

Its prevailing rock is sandstone, (gray micaceous, brown argillaceous, 
red granitic, and ferruginous,) limestone, (sihceous, testaceous, fossilifer- 
ous, and terrene,) and red granite, with various conglomerates and heavy 
boulders of fragmentary and transition rock. 

Among the mineral productions incident to this region are salt, sulphur, 
soda, magnesia, nitre, alum, coal, iron, copper, and gold, (the latter only in 
small quantities.) Among its game is embraced nearly every variety 
found in countries adjacent to the mountains. 

The high prairies skirting the tributaries of the Laramie, though favored 
with many valleys of fertile soil, are fit only for grazing purposes, on ac- 
count of their general aridity and scarcity of water ; a fault, by the way, 
too common with a large proportion of that vast extent of territory Irom 
the neighborhood of our western frontiers almost to the very shores of the 
Pacific. 

* This river received its present name from one Joseph Laramie, a French trap 
per, who was killed near its mouth, several years since, by the Indians. 



132 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Sibaie's-hole. — Novel bitters. — Chugwater. — Gold. — Curiosity. — Affairs at the Fort. 
— Amusements. — Gambling among squaws, and games played.— Squaw dresses, 
and riding fashion. — Items of interest to the curious, proving the intercourse of 
the ancient Romans with the people of this continent. 

On resuming our course, we soon after struck into a lodge-trail leading 
to the Platte by way of Sibille's creek ; — following this we travelled over 
an undulating and sandy prairie for about ten miles, and came to a chain 
of rugged mountains, bearing from north to south, through which we pas- 
sed, by a tedious and circuitous route, for a considerable distance, winding 
among rocks and narrow defiles of naked hills, till we were finally ushered 
into a beautiful opening facing the east, known as Sibille's-hole. 

This valley is situated at the confluence of two small streams, heading 
in the adjoining mountains, that unite to form Sibille's creek. 

It is shut in upon three sides by lofty ridges, many hundred feet high, 
consisting of immense piles of earthy limestone and marl, whose rough, 
naked sides, ornamented with occasional dwarf-pines, cedars, or fruit-bear- 
ing shrubs, present a wild and romantic scenery. 

The valley is four or five miles in length and of variable width, with a 
strong, black soil, affording a goodly supply of timber. 

The season was further advanced in this than in any other place we had 
yet visited. Several specimens of wild flowers were in full bloom, belading 
the soft air with their sweetest odors. The grass too had attained a height 
of some three inches, and furnished a most sumptuous entertainment for our 
jaded animals, which they were nowise backward to accept. 

Wishing to afford them an opportunity to recruit their strength, we re- 
mained encamped the two following days. 

During the interval we were successful in killing two very fat bulls, and 
were thus enabled to renew the series of feasting which had graced the 
greater part of our journey. 

I here became for the first time acquainted with a kind of beverage very 
common among mountaineers. The article alluded to may with much pro- 
priety be termed " bitters," as the reader will readily acknowledge on learn- 
ing the nature of its principal ingredient. 

It is prepared by the following simple process, viz : with one pint of water 
mix one-fourth gill of bufTalo-gall. and you will then have before you a 
wholesome and exhilarating drink. 

To a stomach unaccustomed to its use it may at first create a slightly 
noisome sensation, like the inceptive effects of an emetic; and, to oiio 



CHUGWATER. 133 

strongly bilious, it might cause vomiting; — but, on the second or third trial, 
the stomach attains a taste for it, and receives it with no inconsiderable 
relish. 

Upon the whole system its effects are beneficial. As a stimulent, it 
braces the nerves without producing a corresponding relaxation on the ces- 
sation of its influence ; it also tends to restore an impared appetite and in- 
vigorate the digestive powers. 

As a sanative, it tends to make sound an irritated and ulcerated stomach, 
reclaiming it Lo a healthful and lively tone, and thus striking an effective 
blow at that most prolific source of so large a majority of the diseases 
common to civilzed fife. 

From what I have seen of its results, I consider it one of the most inno- 
cent and useful medicines in cases of dyspepsy, and will hazard the further 
opinion, that, were those laboring under the wasting influences of this dis- 
ease to drink gall-hitlers and confine themselves exclusively to the use of 
some one kind of diet, (animal food always preferable,) thousands who are 
now pining away by piecemeal, would be restored to perfect soundness, and 
snatched from the vei'y threshold of a certain ^m ye which yawns to receive 
them ! 

Resuming our course, we continued down Sibillis creek to its junction 
witli the Laramie ; then, following the course of that river, in the afternoon 
of the third day we arrived at Fort Platte, after an absence of nearly two 
months, — having travelled, in the interval, a distance of more than five 
hundred miles. 

To give a general description of the country passed over during the 
concluding part of our journey, would seem too much like a recapitulation 
of previous remarks. 

Our observations in reference to the river and creek bottoms, may be 
again correctly applied ; as may, also, those relative to the timber, and the 
geological character of the adjoining prairies. 

Several miles above the Fort we crossed the Chugwater, a large aflfluent 
of the Laramie, from the right. This creek takes its rise in a wild and 
desolate section of the Black Hills, near the head of Horse creek. 

Thirty miles or more of its way is traced through a dreary wilder- 
v<ess of rock, sand, and clay, almost entirely devoid of vegetation. 

This region, it is said, affords gold ; and, indeed, I have received fre- 
quent assurances that that valuable metal has been procured, in small par- 
ticles, from among the sand of the creek-bed. 

This region also claims many natural curiosities, of Vv^hich I may take 
occasion to speak more particularly hereafter ; — one, however, situated 
upon Chugwater, here seems more appropriately to demand a passing 
notice. 

It consists of a columnar elevation of sandstone and marl, towering 
aloft to the height of several hundred feet, like the lone chimney of some 
razed mansion, — standing as the melancholy monument of the ruins that 
surround it. 

This singular pile of rock and earth is nearly of a quadrangular form, 
quite regular in its structure, and compares very nearly with the " Chim- 



134 FEMALE GAMBLERS. 

ney " below Scot's Bluff, in its general outlines. It stands within a short 
distance of the east bank of the Chugwater, and gives the creek its present 
name.* 

Our arrival at the Fort dated the 26th of April. The boat being com- 
pleted, all things, save the spring rise, were in readiness for the intended 
voyage. 

This craft was put together in regular ship-shape, and finished in a 
workman-like manner. She measured fifty feet keel by thirteen beam, and, 
without her lading, drew but an inch and a half of water. Her intended 
burthen was between two and three tons. While admiring her beauty 
and symetry, little did I think of the sufferings in store for me with her 
hardy crew. 

Several important changes had taken place during onr absence. The 
Fort with its fixtures now claimed different owners, and was occupied by 
the men of two companies besides our own. This swelled the present 
number to some forty or fifty, and afforded quite a lively scene. 

Now was an interval of leisure to all hands, and the time, unemployed 
in eating and sleeping, was passed in story-telling, ball-playing, foot-racing, 
target-shooting, or other like amusements. 

Several, forming themselves into a club for forensic debate, secured a 
prolific source of entertainment, for the time being. A partner in one of 
the trading firms, whose men were now stationed at the Fort, made him- 
self quite conspicuous as a participator in these discussions. 

He was very self-important and conceited, and not a little ignorant 
withal, and with regard to temperance, being uniformly about " three 
sheets in the wind," and the other JluUering, his spoutings were an ex- 
haustless fund o^ laughter. 

At his request, in order to render the exercises more spirited, the merits 
of the arguments presented were decided upon by a committee of three, 
and the speakers decided against, sentenced to liqnorize the club. 

The treating, however, was always on one side ; for, as the whole busi- 
ness was an aifair of sport, the committee of arbitration generally had this 
primary object in view while pronouncing their decisions. When these 
were averse to our orator, he of course paid the forfeit as an affair of debt ; 
and when favorable to him, he was equally prompt in proferring a common 
treat, exultatory upon his fancied success. 

My own part in this performance was that of a mere looker-on, but it 
required of one more than my usual self-mastery, to retain his gravitv under 
the potent influences of so ludicrous an exhibition. 

Other matters of interest, however, occurred at this time, and, as they 
tend to throw some light upon Indian habits and customs, perhaps the 
reader will not look upon it as altogether out of place for me to notice 
them. 

* The word " Chug " implies chimney ; of the derivation of the term, however, I 
am ignorant. 



SQUAW FASHIONS. 136 

At the two Forts in this neighborhood were some ten or twelve squaws, 
married to the traders and engages of the different fur companies. These 
ladies were in the habit of meeting, occasionally, for gambling purposes. 
In this they acted as systematically as the most experienced black legs of 
a Mississippi steamboat ; if they failed to play as high, it was only for the 
lack of means. 

Ball-playing was one of the games upon which heavy bets were made. 
The instrument used in this amusement consisted of two globular forms, 
about two inches each in diameter, which were attached by a short string. 
The play-ground was the open prairie in front of the Fort, and embraced an 
area of nearly a mile in extent. 

As the initiatory step, each party, composed of equal numbers, selected 
an equal amount of valuables, consisting of beads, scarlet, vermilion, rings, 
awls, shells, &c., which were placed in two piles about half a mile apart, 
and equi-distant between them was placed the ball. Each gamestress, armed 
with her club, then repaired to the spot, and the opposing parties arrayed 
themselves, the one facing the other with the ball between them. At a given 
signal they all strike — the one party striving to propel it towards its own 
valuables, and the other to force it in a contrary direction. The party pro- 
pelling it to its own pile, wins, and becomes entitled to both. 

As success in this game depends more upon fleetness of foot than skill 
in striking, a large party of squaws, thus engaged, opens to the beholder a 
rich scene of amusement. 

Another game is still more extensively practised among them. This is 
somewhat upon the principle of dice, though different in its details. 

Six plum-stones, smoothly polished, and marked with various parallel, 
triangular, and transverse lines, are thrown loosely into a small, plate-like 
basket, around which the players are seated with their stores of trin- 
kets. The leader then receives the basket in one hand, and, briskly mov- 
ing it to change the position of the dice, suddenly strikes it upon the 
ground, tossing the plum-stones from their places and catching them in their 
descent. 

The amount won depends upon the number of triangular and transverse 
lines left uppermost. 

The loser, having paid the forfeit, next takes the basket and describes 
the same movements, receives her winnings in like manner, and returns it to 
her opponent, — and so on alternately. 

Much cheating and trickery are practised in this game. 

The game of hand, for a description of which the reader is referred to a 
previous marginal note, is also a favorite play with squaws as well as men. 
Large parties of both sexes not unfrequently engage in this amusement, 
and many a poor Indian loses his all by the operation. 

Speaking of squaws reminds me of not having previously described 
their dress and appearance. 

The dress of a squaw is scarcely less simple than that of an Indian. 
Two pieces of skin, sewed together in a bag-like form, (of sufficient size 
to envelope the body from neck to knee, leaving an aperture for the formei 



136 INTERESTING TO ANTIQUARIANS. 



with the arms,) constitute her gown, which is completed by two other 
pieces of skin sewed from neck to waist so as to fall loosely upon the arms 
as far as the elbow ; then, with leggins of thin deer or . antelope skin, 
garnished moccasins, and a painted robe, you have before you the full rig 
of a mountain squaw. 

Some of the younger ones, however, flaunt dresses quite tastefully orna- 
mented, with full capes and fringe-works, garnished with beads and porcu- 
pine-quills, that present a wild, fantastic appearance, not altogether es- 
tranged to beauty. 

A squaw prides herself much upon the number of rings in her ears and 
upon her fingers, as well as the taste displayed in plaiting her hair and 
beautifying her face. 

Women, in savage alike with civilized life, are vested with a good sup- 
ply of pride and vanity in their composition, — all, fond of show and gaudy 
equipage. But the mountain squaw, next to ornaments, displays the most 
vanity in the gay caparison of her riding horse, and the splendid trappings 
of his saddle. Both of them are fancifully garnished with beads and paint, 
and bestrung with various trinkets, that impart a tinkling sound, as they 
strike each other at every movement, and fill the rider's ears with that wild 
and simple music so consonant to her feelings and thoughts. 

Men and women practise the same mode of riding, (astride,) and a 
squaw is as much at home on horseback as the most experienced cavalier. 

This fashion is properly considered unbecoming for ladies of civilized 
countries ; yet, improper as it may seem, it is quite common with the ladies 
of New Mexico. 

As my subsequent travels in the countries bordering upon the Rocky 
Mountains preclude the opportunity of speaking connectedly of the Sioux 
nation, I cannot forego the present occasion for presenting to the curious, 
some few items relative to the language of these Indians, that tend to shed 
no small amount of light upon the ancient history of the American conti- 
nent. 

There are several remarkable peculiarities in the Sioux language, that 
cannot fail to prove interesting and satisfactory, so far as they go, to all 
lovers of antiquarian research. 

The first of these consists in the striking similarity observable in its 
general structure to that of the ancient Romans, when the two are care- 
fully compared with each other. 

In regard to the arrangement of words and the construction of sen- 
tences, they are both governed by the same fixed laws of euphony, irre- 
spective of the relative position otherwise maintained by the different 
parts of speech. It will be observed that the leading purpose of the speak- 
er of either language is, to avoid a harsh and inharmonious intermingling 
of words, such as would grate upon the ear when pronounced in an ab- 
rupt connection ; and, by so doing, to give a smooth and musical turn to 
the expression of his ideas. 

The few brief sentences, hereto subjoined in the same order as they oc- 
cur in the original, accompanied by the translation of each word as it ap- 
pears, will serve to illustrate this matter more fully : 



COMPARISON OF LANGUAGES. 



13T 



LATIN. SIOUX. 

animi robur ostensit. Tepe nea-tour toocta ? 
Lodge your own where is it ? 
Mea warchee muzarka nea-tour. 
I want gun your own. 
Kokepa warneche wecharcha ha. 
Afraid nothing the man is. 
Minewarka appello warktashne ha 
Medicine-water I say not good is. 

A mere glance at the foregoing will at once show the constructional 
similarity between the two ; and, to illustrate the proposition still farther, I 
here subjoin yet other proofs of a more important relationship : 



Invictum animi robur ostensit 
Invincible of mind strength he displayed. 
Omnia delicarum instrumenta e 

All of delicacies the intruments from 
castris ejecit. 
camp he cast. 

Non amo nimium diligentes. 
Not I love overmuch tlie careful. 



LATIN. 

Appello, (pres. ind., 1st per. sing.; inf. 
appellare,) I declare, I proclaim. 

Bestia, a wild heasl. 

Cteca, uncertain, ambiguous, confu- 
sed, rash. 

Cogor, one loho collects, brings togeth- 
er, compels, forces, or heaps up. 

Mea, (mens, a, um,) of or belonging 
to me. 

Mena, a narrow sharp fish. 

Ne, (this when affixed to a word or a 
sentence gives it a negative signi- 
fication,) no, not. 

PapsB, rai'e, excellent, luonderful. 

Pater, father. 

Pes, the foot. 

Taurus, a bull. 

Tepor, warmth. 

Tuor, (tui, tutus sum,) to look, to see. 



SIOUX. 

Appello, I declare, I proclaim, I tellj 
I make known. 

Beta, a buffalo. 

Ceicha, bad, disorderly, unsound. 

Cogor, a maker of amjthing, a manu- 
facturer, one who froduces a thing 
by an ingenious arrangement of 
materials. 

Mea, /, ?nyself, me. 

Mena, a knife. 

Ne, (this word is used precisely the 
same as in Latin, and has a similar 
meaning,) not. 

Papa, meat, flesh used for food. 

Pater, fire. 

Pea, the foot 

Tau, (or tah,) a bull. 

Tepe, a lodge. 

Tula, (astonishment,) look! see there! 



I might pursue this comparison to a yet greater extent, were my know- 
ledge of Sioux sufficiently full and critical for the task, (for I have a firm 
confidence that many other similarities might be pointed out, quite as glar- 
ing in their character as any of the above ;) but, enough, I trust, has al- 
ready been said to fortify the position so largely warranted by the pre- 
mises, to wit : that in former ages the Romans maintained a foothold upon 
the American continent, and had intercourse with this nation, either by arms 
or by commerce. 

The argument drawn from the foregoing is still further strengthened, 
when we take into consideration the fact, that language is constantly vary- 
ing in its form, and changing the meaning and pronunciation of its words, 
as time progresses. To exemplify this more clearly and forcibly, let the 
reader compare the works of standard English authors of the present day 
with those of the like not more than five hundred years since, and he will 
readily acknowledge the palpable indications of progressive change. 



138 THE ROMANS IN AMERICA. 



If so short an interval has produced a transformation so bold in a written 
language, what might we look for in one spoken only ? 

But, an interval of three times five hundred years has passed since the 
Romans and the Sioux held intercourse with each other, and we yet find 
the general structure of the two languages strikingly similar, and several 
of their words identical in meaning and pronunciation ! And, though the 
latter observation fails in some cases, even this, so far from proving any- 
thing averse to the position before assumed, serves to strengthen it. 

The word paler, for instance, pronounced alike in both languages, dif- 
fers in signification ; being used in the one to imply father, in the other 
fire. This apparent discrepancy of meaning may be explained in a few 
words. The Sioux are accustomed to venerate the sun as one of the more 
especial manifestations of the Divine Essence, who is regarded as the 
FATHER or creator of all things ; and it, being the great source of light 
and heat, is naturally looked upon as an immense body of fire. Thus, in 
the course of ages, the term became perverted in its meaning and applica- 
tion, and, instead of being used to express the sun, or Great Spirit, the 
father of all, it now only implies the simple element of fire, an emanation 
from the sun. 

So in relation to the Latin word tepor, icarmth, and the Sioux word tepe, 
a lodge. The lodge is employed in winter to retain the heat within itself, 
and exclude the cold air ; nor is it wonderful that, in the progress of years, 
the term tepor, or tepe, should become the only one by which a lodge is 
known. 

The word mena, is also pronounced the same in both, though different in 
its signification ; meaning, in Latin, a narrow sharp fish, and, in Sioux, a 
knife. In explanation of this, I would barely refer to the similarity of 
shape between a knife and a narrow sharp fish. 

The relationship disclosed between these two languages is seemingly 
too close and significant to be attributed to mere chance or accident, and 
can be in no other way satisfactorily accounted for, than by admitting the 
correctness of the premises before quoted. 

But this position, curious as it may seem to some readers, and impreg- 
nable as it must doubtless prove, has other weapons to protect it at com- 
mand ; and, ere dismissing the subject, I will briefly notice some of them. 

It is by no means a conjecture of recent origin, that the ancient Romans 
did actually colonize portions of the American continent. The industri- 
ous researches of antiquarians have long since brought to light many items 
which prove and strengthen it, though none of them so tangible and obvi- 
ous as those previously noticed. 

Several obscure hints of the existence of extensive Roman colonies 
planted westward of the Pillars of Hercules, (doubtless alluding to the 
American continent,) have been detected in the writings of ancient authors 
yet 3xtant; but still further proof is afforded in the relics of temples, cities, 
roais, and fortified camps, long since discovered in Peru, Mexico, and the 
United States, which strongly savor of Roman origin. 

The ancient works at Marietta, Ohio, have been regarded, by not a few, 
as the offspring of Roman industry and military science, — and various other 
remains, that signalize the Mississippi valley, point quite plainly to this 
Dalion for a parentage. But a proof, still more conclusive than any yet ad- 



WE EMBARK. 139 

duced, is afforded by ihe discovery of a genuine Roman coin, in the State 
of Missouri, several years since. 

Taking all these corroborative circumstances in connection, the fact that 
Roman colonies did exist, to some extent, upon this continent in past ages, 
must be regarded as placed beyond successful controversy. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Singular exhibition of natural affection.— Embark for the States.— Scarcity of pro- 
visions and consequent hardship and suffering.— Extraordinary daring of wolves. — 
Difficulties of navigation. — Novel diet.— Fishing.— A fish story, and another to 
match it.— A bull story. — Hard aground and dismal situation. — Extreme exposure. — 
Cold, hungry, and wet. — Again afloat. — Re-supply of provisions.— Camp on fire. — 
A picture of Platte navigation.— Country north of river.— Adventure with a bull.— 
Indian benevolence.— Summary of hardships and deprivations. — Abandon voyage. 

Soon after our return, one of the hunters came in from a short excursion 
followed by a buffalo calf, which appeared as tame and docile as if always 
accustomed to the presence of man. 

This incident first brought to my knowledge a remarkable peculiarity in 
the nature of these animals, — viz : the strength of affection existing between 
the mother and her offspring. 

The buffalo will never desert her calf, except in cases of imminent 
danger, and then, never for a long time ; — she is certain to return promptly 
in search of it, even at the hazard of her own life. The calf, on the other 
hand, exhibits an equal, or rather superior, love for its mother. 

If she, to whom he owes his birth, falls a prey to the relentless hunter, he 
deserts her not, but lingers near her lifeless carcase, till the butcher-knife 
performs its office, and the reeking flesh belades tlie pack-horse ; — nor then, 
even, does he leave her. 

As the honored relics are borne away, he not unfrequently follows on, 
mournfully, regardless of aught else, as if saying, " Where thou goest let 
me go, and now thou art dead, I would live no longer." There is some- 
thing touchingly beautiful in such exhibitions of natural affection on the 
part of dumb brutes. 

May 1th. Availing ourselves of a slight rise of water, we embarked on 
our meditated voyage to the States. 

The boat was freighted with some sixty packs* of robes, and provisions 
for four weeks. A barge belonging to another company, also in readiness, 
started with us, and we all flattered ourselves with the hope of a speedy 
and pleasant trip. 

The two boats numbered a united crew of eleven men, — mine consist- 
ing of five, and that of our consort counted six. 

* A pack of robes generally embraces ten skins, and weighs about eighty pounds, j 



140 NOT TO BE EiNVIED. 

Slipping cable, we glided midway of the stream, and gave a parting 
salute to the friends who lined the shore, accompanied by a loud hurra 
and waving of hats, deeply responded to by them, — and even tears coursed 
their way a down the dusky visages of our voyageurs, when mindful of 
the fate separating them — perhaps forever ! 

The crews now struck up a merry song, while the dripping oars, as they 
spurned the crystal waters, responded their time in measured strokes. 

As we passed swiftly along and were fast receding from within hailing 
distance of the Fort, an old mountaineer, who stood gazing upon us, ex- 
claimed, " Ah, boys ; you can sing now, but your tune will be altered ere- 
long !" 

This strange announcement, though a riddle at the time of its utterance, 
soon began to more than verify itself, and often did we repeat the remark, 
" Weil, sure enough, our tune has changed." 

Moving along prettily during the day — sometimes floating with t.he cur- 
rent then again plying oars, — we reached the mouth of Horse creek ; and, 
passing on a short distance, lay to for the night. 

The day following we again pushed off; but, after proceeding ten or 
twelve miles, the water became so shallow, we were compelled to lay by to 
await a further rise, and struck camp in a small grove of cottonwood upon 
the right bank of the Platte, a short distance above Scott's Bluff. Here we 
remained for some two weeks. 

The crew of our consort being poorly supplied with provisions, we 
divided our own with them, and, at the expiration of a few days, w^ere left 
entirely destitute. 

From this on, we were dependent solely upon such game as chance 
threw in our way, — sometimes starving for two or three days, and then 
feasting for a like interval, upon the products of successful hunting. 

To us was a tedious lot, — there being no game in the country, save per- 
chance a few straggling bulls, and they rarely within less distance than ten 
or twelve miles. Oar hunting excursions often led further than that, and 
when we were so fortunate as to kill, the proceeds were borne upon our 
backs to camp. We became so accustomed to packing in this manner, it 
was thought no extra burthen for an individual to carry upwards of a hundred 
pounds of fresh meat at a single load, some ten or twelve successive miles, 
over an open, sandy prairie, and beneath the scorching rays of an almost 
vertical sun. 

So far from regarding it a task, we esteemed it a pleasure, and were 
glad to appease the cravings of appetite even at so small a sacrifice of 
comfort and convenience. 

The reason for the scarcity of all kinds of game in the vicinity of the 
river at this time, was the recent burning of the prairie upon both sides, 
for many miles back, leaving not even the vestige of vegetation for the 
subsistence of any graminivorous animals. 

This we found to be the case nearly the entire distance to the forks. 

During the latter part of our stay at this camp, it rained almost inces- 
santly ; we also encountered a severe snow storm. 

The winds were usually high, and frequently blew with hurricane-vio- 
lence. 



FISH STORIES. 141 

A pack of hungry wolves, attracted by the scent of camp, were our 
regular nocturnal visitors, and proved a constant source of annoyance. On 
one occasion they carried off a bake-kettle to a distance of several hundred 
yards ; — at another time, they took away a tin-pan, which we never after- 
wards recovered ; — and, stranger yet, one night these piratical pests stole a 
fur cap from off my head while I was sleeping, and in the morning, after a 
diligent search, no trace of it could be found. 

The river having slightly risen, we again loosed cable, and, after toiling 
all day, and tugging with might and main, by hand-spikes and levers, — 
twisting, screwing, and Hfting, now in water up to our necks, and now on 
dry sand-bars, we succeeded in dragging, or rather carrying, our craft for a 
distance of about five miles, and again lay oy for four succeeding days to 
await a still further rise. 

Upon the opposite side of the river was a bald-eagle's nest, with two half- 
grown fledgelings. One of our party, ascending the tree, captured the 
young ones, and we had a fine meal from their carcases. A wood-duck's 
nest, containing some twelve eggs, near by, afforded a seasonable repast, — 
and, in hunting for game, we came upon the nest of a wild goose, as well 
as those of numerous ravens among the neighboring cottonwoods and wil- 
lows, which we subjected to such forced contributions as appetite demanded. 

A portion of the interval was employed in fishtng, but with poor success, 
the fish of the Platte being nearly all of them small, and not very plentiful 
even, at that. 

An old Franco-C'anadian, of our crew, here favored us with, perhaps, a 
little the biggest fish story of any told at the present day. 

He had been down the Missouri on several occasions in boats connected 
with the fur trade. On one of these voyages, while in the act of reaching 
over the boat-side for a drink of water, he dropped his cup. which imme- 
diately sank to the bottom of the river and was lost. 

Three years afterwards he again passed the same place, with hooks and 
lines attached to the boat-stern for the purpose of catching fish as he glided 
along. 

A large cat-fish, attracted by the tempting bait borne upon the hook, 
greedily swallowed it, and, in a trice, found himself translated to a new 
and strange element. 

The creature was so heavy, it took two men to pull him into the boat, while 
his gigantic proportions astonished all beholders. 

But the most surprising thing was revealed on opening him ; — there, 
snugly stowed away in one corner of the monster's capacious maw, repo- 
sed tlie identical cup our voyageur had lost, three years before, with his 
name and the date marked upon it ! 

" Pooh ! Gumbo," said an old sailor, " I can beat such stories as that, all 
day. 

" Why, fellow, on my last trip from Liverpool to New York, a shark 
followed the ship for a long time, picking up such bits of bread and meat 
as were thrown into the sea. 

" Our steward was a very careless fellow, and, in shaking the table- 
cloth, he would frequently drop overboard the knives and forks and spoons, 
and received from the captain several floggings on that account. He was 



142 BULLETS IN A BULL. 

even accused of stealing them, but strongly protested his innocence of the 
latter charge. 

" Among our passengers was an old whaleman, who, being very expert 
in the use of the harpoon, took it into his head one day to victimize the 
shark. After several ineffectual attempts, he finally succeeded in forcing 
his instrument through the monster's vitals, and drew the lifeless carcase 
alongside. 

" The piratical cruiser was so thundering big, it took eight men with 
tackles to raise it on board ; — it must have weighed at least sixteen hun- 
dred pounds ! The body of the greedy creature was then laid upon deck, 
and on opening it all were astonished ! What do you think was found, 
Gumbo ?" 

" Sacre sharp ! Certes me tink dey fine de spoon, de fork an de knife ' 
Him shark no follow de ship for nottin." 

" Well, boys, what do you all suppose was found V' 

" Indeed, we could'nt say.-' 

" Guess," 

" The knives and spoons, of course.'' 

" You are wrong, to a man." 

" What, in the name of reason, could it have been ? Do tell — we give 
it up." 

" Hang me, if you aint a bright set of fellows ! — Can't guess a thing 
so easy ? Why, if I must tell you — 'twas guts, — only guts — nothing in 
the world but guts .'" 

"Look here. Jack," said one of the listeners, advancing towards him hat 
in hand, " you can take this. We'll be quite likely to remember hereafter 
that fish generally carry their guts inside !" 

The old Frenchman looked rather crest-fallen at the curious manner in 
which his extraordinary fish story had been matched, — but felt little dis- 
posed to yield his laurels without an effort to retrieve them, — so, calhng to 
aid his recollections of the marvellous, he again commenced. 

Several years ago, while in the employ of the American Fur Company, 
our hero and another man were sent expresses to a distant post. It was 
winter; and they travelled on foot, depending for daily subsistence upon 
such game as chance brought in their way. Their course lay through an 
open and cheerless prairie, covered with snow, and the journey occupied 
nearly a month. 

Having been en route some five or six days, their ammunition began to 
fail in the item of lead, — and only two bullets were left. Their condition 
now became extremely desperate, as there was no way of procuring a 
re-supply, — and anticipated starvation stared them in the face. 

Determined to eat as long as the means of subsistence remained, their 
last balls were shot away in killing a buffalo bull. After furnishing them- 
selves from his carcase with a large supply of meat for present and future 
use, our hero proceeded to cut a few locks of hair from off^ the creature's 
head, for the purpose of stuffing his moccasins. 

" Bon Dieu ! Vat you tink me fine ? You no can tell all day ! Me 
no ask you guess. Bon Dieu ! c'etre admirable. Me fine forty ballas, in 



HOW WE SUFFERED. 143 

he head. Me get 'em out. Sacre tonnerre ! den me had him sufficient la 
poudre and la ballas for de route ! No go hungry une leetil bit !" 

On the fifth day subsequent, we again launched forth into the stream, 
and after a series of most extraordinary exertions, (being obliged to lighten 
our boat several times, by carrying its loading on shore, and reloadmg as 
often, thus to enable us to lift it over sand-bars,) we succeeded in getting it 
some three miles, and finally became safely moored in the middle of tlie 
river, from which it was impossible to extricate ourselves either by going 
backwards, forwards, or sidewise — with or without a cargo. 

Here we remained for three days, and experienced, during the interval, 
a continuous fall of rain and sleet, which rendered the weather dismal and 
our own situation disagreeable in the extreme. 

A cache of liquor having been made, fifteen or twenty miles distant, by a 
trader connected with our consort, a month or two previous, unforbid- 
ding as was the weather, the crew could not rest content until the hidden 
treasure was among them. 

Improving the opportunity presented by a slight suspension of the storm, 
one morning two of them started to procure it. Soon after it commenced 
snowing and raining, accompanied by a fierce, cutting wind, and all the 
withering bleakness of a winter's blast. 

StiJl keeping on, however, they obtained the cache, and returned with it 
towards the boat. 

But night shut in upon them by the way, and a thrice dreary night it 
was. Being too drunk to navigate, they lost their course and were forced 
to camp in the open prairie, without wood or aught else of which to build a 
fire, or even a robe to cover or a rock to shelter them from tlie chill wind 
and peltings of the pitiless storm. 

Half-frozen with cold and wet to the skin, they lay upon the muddy 
ground and passed the interval, not in sleep, but in a state of drunken 
stupor, produced by inordinate draughts upon the contents of their keg. 

On the next morning they reached the boat, — a beautiful looking couple, 
as might well be supposed ! Covered with mud from head to foot, their 
clothes were wringing wet, and their faces bloated and swollen almost to 
twice their natural size. So complete was the transformation, they were 
scarcely recognizable as the same persons. 

But, regardless of hardship and suffering, they stuck to the liquor-keg 
and brought it with them as proof of their triumph. 

And now commenced a scene of drunken revelry, which, despite my 
efTorts to prevent it, soon communicated itself to both crews, and continued 
without intermission till the stock on hand was exhausted. 

The lack of a fire by which to warm ourselves, contributed materially 
to the misery of our present condition ; there being no wood procurable 
for that purpose within five or six miles of either shore, and having none 
on board, we were compelled to endure the dreary interval as best we 
could. 

But another evil came pressing upon our already heavy load through 
the entire exhaustion of provisions, and the last of our stay was made 
twice forlorn by cold and fasting. 



U4 PICTURE OF THE PLATTE. 

The gloomy reality of this situation may be thus briefly summed up ; — 
we were fast aground in the middle of a river, three-fourths of a mile 
from either shore, confined to the narrow hmits of a few feet, exposed to 
the merciless peltings of a chill storm of rain and sleet, with only a thin 
lodge skin to shelter us, without fire to warm or dry ourselves by, and, 
worse than all, destitute of the means of appeasing the gnawings of hun- 
ger. 

But, forbidding as the picture may seem, it proved only the commence- 
ment of a long series of suffering and deprivation, more intensely dread- 
ful in its nature, that was yet held in reserve for us. 

On the forenoon of the fourth day the storm abated, and, favored with a 
slight rise of water, by dint of extraordinary effort we finally succeeded in 
getting afloat, and gained the right shore after pulling our craft over sand- 
bars for a distance of two miles. 

All hands now turned out in search of game, one of whom returned, 
towards night with an antelope, providing us with a needful supply of food 
for the time being. 

The next day, forcing our craft onward for six or eight miles, we 
brought to upon the left shore, where, after a short excursion among the 
hills, two other antelope were brought in, which furnished us with a fur- 
ther supply of provisions. 

The day following we continued our voyage till tow^ards noon, when a 
high wind compelled us again to lay by under the lee of a small island. 

Here, towards night, having spread our robes near the camp fire, while 
all hands were busy at tlie boat, a sudden gust of wind bore the sparks 
among the dry grass, and in an instant the whole island was one sheet of 
flame ! robes, blankets, and all, were almost entirely destroyed, notwith- 
standing our prompt efforts to save them. 

Continuing on, the next morning we forced our boat, or rather carried it, 
down stream for about fifteen miles, — wading the river for nearly the whole 
distance. 

Our mode of voyaging was pretty much the same, each day of its con- 
tinuance. Sailing was out of the question. 

Not unfrequently we were obliged to unload five or six times in the 
course of a few hours, in order to lift the boat over high sand-bars, — 
carrying its cargo upon our backs through the water a half-mile or more, to 
some dry place of deposit for the mean time ; then returning it in the like 
tiresome manner, — now in water up to our arm-pits, — then scarcely enough 
to cover the sand of the river bed. 

As for a channel there was none, or rather, there were so many we were 
at a continual loss which to choose. 

Now, gliding along merrily for a mile or two, we are brought to a halt 
by the water scattering over a broad bed, and find ourselves snugly 
" pocketed,'''' with no other means of extrication than by backing out ; then, 
wading against a swift current, we retrace our steps for a like distance, 
and try another chute, perhaps with no better success ; — then, again, con- 
veying our landing to the nearest point of land, by means of hand-spikes 
and levers, (requiring an exercise of the utmost strength,) we force our 



HARD FATE. 145 



empty craft over the shoals, and again load it, perhaps, to re-act the same 
scene in a brief interval. 

Sometimes we were obliged to travel (for such navigation as this was 
tenfold worse than travelling) four of five miles to make one mile headway. 
By crossing and re-crossing a river varying in width from one to two miles — 
first advancing, then retreating ; now taking to the right, then to the left ; 
now transverse, and then oblique, we wasted our time, strength, and pa- 
tience, in labor to little or no purpuse. No one, unless practically experi- 
enced, can have a correct idea of the beauties of such a voyage. 

Towards night, attracted by the appearance of a couple of bulls among 
the sand-hills, we brought to upon the left shore, and succeeded in kiUing 
one of them, 

•A high wind the day following kept us encamped and aflTorded another 
opportunity for hunting. 

Improving the occasion to explore the country northward, and obtain, if 
possible, some correct conception of its general character, a jaunt of four 
or five miles, over the bottom of rich alluvial soil skirting the river, ushered 
me into a high rolling prairie, partaking of the mixed nature of the garden 
and desert. 

The hills, in many places, were piles of sand or sun-baked clay, with 
scarcely a shrub or spire of grass to hide their nude deformity, while the 
space between them sported a rich soil and luxuriant vegetation, and was 
clothed in the verdure and loveliness of spring, and adorned with blushing 
wild-flowers in full bloom. 

Further on were yet higher summits, surmounted by pines and cedars, 
raising their heads in stately grandeur far above the sweet valleys at their 
feet. 

Taken together, the scenery was not only romantic and picturesque, but 
bewitching in its beauty and repulsive in its deformity. 

The prevailing rock was a dark, ferruginous sandstone, and argillaceous 
limestone, interspersed with conglomerates of various kinds. 

Proceeding to a distance of about fifteen miles from the river, in hopes 
of finding game, I encountered nothing save a solitary band of wild horses, 
that fled across the sand-hills with the fleetness of the wind on my appear- 
ance, after which I returned to the boat much fatigued from the excursion. 

Our other hunters had also ipturned ; but neither of them with better 
success than myself. 

The subsequent morning we again renewed our voyage. Soon after, an 
old bull presenting himself upon the river bank, we landed, and one of the 
crew approached him from the water-edge. 

The old fellow, unconscious of the danger which threatened, permitted 
the hunter to advance till within three or four yards of him. The sharp crack 
of a rifle-shot first awoke him to a sense of his situation, when, reeling, he 
plunged headlong from the steep bank into the river. Our marksman, in 
an effort to dodge ^he falling beast, tumbled backwards into swimming wa- 
ter — lost his gun, and came very near being drowned. 

The bull made halt at a sand-bar, near by, and received nineteen shots in 
his carcase before he could be dispatched. 
10 



146 IMPOSSIBLE TO PROCEED. 



When killed, his hams were found half eaten by wolves, and his whole 
body otherwise so badly mangled we left it imbutchered. 

In the afternoon, having pursued our way eight or ten miles, we lay by 
for the night. 

A high wind and rain during the three succeeding days prevented further 
progress, and in the interval our provisions became again exhausted. 

While here, observing two Indians in the distance, ruiining buffalo, I 
took three men and started to meet them. On coming up, we found an old 
Indian with his son engaged in butchering. Announcing the object of my 
visit to be the procurement of meat, they listened without a reply, but con- 
tinued their operations, — laying the selections in two separate heaps. 

When finished, the old man led up his horse, and, pointing to an assorted 
pile, told me it was mine, and the animal also should be at my service to 
convey it to camp. 

His village, he remarked, was a long distance over the hills, on the 
watch for Pawnees, and though in a directly opposite course from us, he 
loved the white man and would give him meat and a horse to carry it. 

Accepting the offer of the generous-hearted savage, I took the heavy- 
laden horse and returned to the boat, — the owner following to regain his 
beast. When arrived, he hinted at no remumeration for his kindness, 
and mounting his horse, would have left for his village. 

Where will you find among civilized people men thus generous and 
obliging ? Such cases are indeed rare. The savage here proved himself 
of more noble principles than nineteen-twentieths of his enlightened and 
christianized brethren, whose religion teaches them to love their neighbor 
as themselves, and do to others as they would like to be done unto ! 

Unwilling that such disinterested kindness should go unrewarded, I made 
the old man some trifling presents, which he accepted with great pleasure, 
and, pressing his hand to his breast, exclaimed : " Chanta-ma warstaello !" 
(my heart is good !) and, shaking hands with the company, put whip to his 
horse and was soon out of sight. 

' It is useless to notice the particular progress of each day, or to state how 
many times we unloaded in the interim — how often we crossed the river, oi 
how far we carried our boat by main strength ; these things have been 
already laid before the reader sufficiently^to give him some faint idea of the 
intolerable hardships and sufferings we wete compelled to undergo. Each 
day was but a repetition of the toils and struggles of the preceding one. 

Neither would it be interesting to state the especial half-day, day, or suc- 
cessive days we went without eating, meanwhile ; suffice it to say, the 
morning of the lOth of June found us at the mouth of a small creek upon 
the right shore, about two hundred miles below the Fort, — having been 
thirty-five days en barqueite, and without eating for full one third of that 
time ! The expected spring rise had failed, and the river was very low and 
still falling, so that there was no possible chance of conveying our cargo to 
the States, as the most difficult part of the voyage lay yet before us. I ac- 
cordingly abandoned all thoughts of the latter, and adopted such other ar- 
rangements as my judgment suggested upon the premises. 



147 



CHAPTER XVIIl. 

Hunting excursion. — ^Thirst more painful than hunger. — Geological observations — 
Mournful casualty. — Sad scene of sepulture. — Melancholy night. — Voyage in an 
empty boat.— Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluff— Plover creek. Caen© 
Grove. — Thousand Islands. — Abandon boat. — Exploring company. — A horrible situ- 
ation. — Agony to torment. — Pawnee village. — Exemplary benevolence of an Indian 
chief.—Miserable fourth ot July. — Foiu: days starvation. — Arrival at Council 
Bluff — Proceed to Independence. 

For two days preceding we had been without eating-, and our first effort 
was to procure a re-supply of provisions. Both crews started out with 
their rifles in pursuit of game, though not the foot-print of any living crea- 
ture appeared to excite even the faintest hope of success. 

Still, however, we kept on, determined not to despair so long as the use 
of legs remained to us. 

Having travelled some fifteen miles, chance threw in our way a doe-elk 
with her fawn, which the unerring aim of a rifle speedily laid dead before 
us. Soon as opened, the liver disappeared at the demands of voracious ap- 
petites, and next to it the marrow bones and kidneys. 

The process of cooking was then commenced over a fire of hois de vache, 
which was continued till each stomach was abundantly satisfied. But, 
here another enemy assumed the place of hunger, and one far more painful 
in its nature. There was not a drop of water to allay our thirst short of 
the river, fifteen miles distant, — over an open sand-prairie and beneath the 
scorching rays of a vertical sun. 

I can endure hunger for many days in succession without experiencing 
any very painful sensations, — I can lie down and forget it in the sweet un- 
consciousness of sleep, or feast my imagination upon the rich-spread tables 
of dreams ; — but not so with thirst. It cannot be forgotten, sleeping or 
waking, while existence is retained. It will make itself known and felt ! 
It will parch your tongue and burn your throat, despite your utmost endeavors 
to thrust it from memory ! 

Each one shouldering his burden from the carcase, we took up our line of 
march for the boat, where, arriving in four or five hours subsequently, we 
quenched our burning thirst in the water of the thrice welcome stream. 

The country, travelled over during this excursion, for the first ten or 
twelve miles, was a level plain, presenting a thin vegetable mould with a 
luxuriant growth of grass and herbage, upon a substratum of sand and 
gravel. 

The remainder of our route led through a ridge of hills, many of them 
naked, others clothed with grass and ornamented with pines ; — between the 
tiimuU were many beautiful vallojis, gorgeously decked with wild-flowers in 
full bloom, and arrayed in mantles of living green ; while thick clusters of 
fruit-bearing trees and shrubs attested the general fecundity and lent their 
enchantment to the scene. 



148 MOURNFUL CASUALTY. 

Beyond this a gentle acclivity, that led to the high prairies, spread before 
the beholder a wilderness of verdure, without one moving object to relieve 
its cheerless monotony. 

The boats were unloaded on our return and their contents placed in a 
compact pile upon shore, over which were spread two thicknesses of lodge- 
skin, to protect it from the weather. Other necessary arrangements were 
soon completed. Two men being selected to remain with the robes, two 
were dispatched to the Fort, while the remainder with myself were to make 
our way to the States, if possible, in an empty boat. 

Everything w^as put in order for departure the next morning, and a 
gloomy feeling pervaded each mind as the hour approached that was to 
separate a band so closely united by mutual sufferings, toil, and depriva- 
tion. 

Those selected to accompany me were congratulating themselves on the 
prospect of soon reaching the termination of their arduous and eventful 
expedition, among the friends and acquaintances of other days ; and none 
were more happy in the anticipation of this hoped for finale, than was a 
lively French youth, named Prudom. 

Notwithstanding the general tendency of circumstances was to produce 
feelings of melancholy, his voice rang loud in announcing the varied plans 
of amusement and pleasure, that were to be realized upon his arrival at 
home. 

For this day, so far at least, he had been the petit garqon of the company ; 
and, it was frequently remarked, as his quaint expressions and sallies of wit 
burst upon the ear, " What in the world is the matter with Prudom ? 

His good nature and kindness of disposition had won the esteem of all 
acquainted with him, while his cheerfulness and fortitude at all times con- 
tributed much to render tolerable the dreariness of our forlorn condition. 

A little before night, the company indulged in a general cleansing, ac- 
companied by a shave and change of clothes. Prudom was among the 
number, for whom an intimate friend officiated as barber ; — the operation 
finished, he jokingly remarked : 

" Well, Tom, 1 suppose this is the last time you'll ever shave me !" 

Little did the poor fellow think how soon his words were to be verified. 
Seizing his rifie he stepped on board the boat, and, stooping to lay it by, 
exclaimed, " Here's the game !" 

The words were scarcely uttered, when the gun-lock, coming in sudden 
contact with the boat-side, discharged the piece and shot him through the 
heart! He staggered, faltering forth " Mon Dieu!" and fell dead at my 
feet !" 

A thrill of horror struck every nerve on witnessing this tragical event. 
If we liad previously felt melancholy, we now felt dismal and wobegone. 
He, wh(j five miimtes since was the veiy soul of cheerfulness and mirth, 
now lay a lifeless corpse ! How true it is, we " know not what a day or 
an hour may bring forth." 

The sun was just setting as wo commenced digging a grave in which to 
deposite all that remained of our friend and companion. 



HOW WE FARED. 149 

The task was a sad one, and as tedious as it was sorrowful. We had 
neither shovel nor pick-axe, and were compelled to dig it with our butcher- 
knives and hands. 

The pale-moon, new-risen, shed her sombre light over the dismal realms of 
Solitude, and an intervening cloud cast its pall-like shaddow upon the 
scene of sepulture, as we laid low the corse in mother dust. No shroud 
covered — no useless coffin enclosed it, — a grave was the only gift within 
the power of friendship to bestow! A thin coating of earth succeeded by 
a layer of stones and drift-wood, and that again by another earth-coat, was 
its covering, — then, the mournful task was done, — a tear dropt to the mem- 
ory of poor Prudom, and his body left to slumber in its narrow prison-house, 
till the sound of the last trump shall wake the dead to judgment.* 

That night to us was a more painful one than any we had passed. A 
feeling of superstitious awe, mingled with thrilling sensations of grief 
and thoughts of our own miserable condition, occupied each mind and 
usurped the soothing powers of sleep. The dolesome bowlings of the 
prairie-wolf, and hootings of the midnight owl, borne upon the listening 
air, kept sad condolence with our musmgs, and gave increased momen- 
tum to the pressure that crushed our spirits. Who could sleep, amid 
such scenes and surrounded by such circumstances 1 

The rising sun of the morrow brought the hour of separation, and ex- 
hibited upon every face the same downcast look, prefiguring the inward- 
workings of a mind absorbed in the melancholy of its own thoughts. 

My party consisted of six, some of whom were selected from the crew 
of our consort. We all embarked in one boat, taking with us a small 
quantity of robes, (our own individual property,) and a portion of the pro- 
visions at camp. 

Our voyage for a few days succeeding, was performed without much 
difficulty, except in the article of food — for, from this onward, till we 
finally reached the settlements, (an interval of twenty-eight days,) we 
were without eating full one half of the time ! 

Proceeding some thirty miles, we overtook the American Fur Com- 
pany's barges, three in number, the crews of which were struggling on 
in vain effort to reach the States. We glided past them with a loud 
huzza, and rallied the poor, toiling voyageurs, upon the futility of their 
exertions. 

Five or six days subsequently, we were, in turn, overtaken by them ; — 
they, like ourselves, abandoning all hope of accomplishing the objects of 
their voyage, had left their freight at Ash creek, under guard — and, from 
that on, became our compagnons de voyage. 

The only game previous to reaching the forks of the Platte — a distance 
of some two hundred miles — was now and then an antelope, with a few 
straggling deer. Our subsistence, meanwhile, was principally upon 
^^ greens,'' and such roots as we had time and opportunity to gather. 

The country was pretty much of a uniform character, with that pre- 
viously described. The rich alluvion of the river bottom reposed upon 
a varied substratum of sand, marl, gravel, and clay. 

■ * On my return the ensuing fall, I learned that the body of the unfortunate young 
man had been disinterred by wolves and devoured. 



150 ON FOOT. 



I noticed several varieties of clays in the river banks exposed by the 
attrition of the water — of these were the white, red, black, yellow, blue, 
and green. 

The white clay is much used by the Indians in cleaning skins and robes ; 
an operation performed by mixing it with water till the compound as- 
sumes the color and about four times the consistency of milk, when it is 
applied to the surface of the article in hand ; the robe or skin thus vi'-ash- 
ed, after being thoroughly dried in the sun, is rubbed until it becomes 
soft and pliable from friction, and the grosser particles of the preparation 
are loosened and removed. 

By this simple process skins assume a milky whiteness, and every spot 
of grease or dirt is made to disappear. 

All kinds of skin may be thus cleansed, and will readily attain an un- 
soiled purity, surpassing that originally possessed. Red, yellow, black, 
blue, or any other kind of clay, may be used for like purposes, and will 
readily impart to the cleansed articles their own color. 

In case a single application is insufficient, repeat the process for two 
or three times, and there can be no possible failure in the result, provid- 
ed the clay is pure and good. 

Some twenty miles above the Forks, we passed a ridge of rocky hills 
exhibiting layers of limestone and sandstone in bold escarpments, that 
jutting into the river from the right, formed a high embankment covered 
with pines and cedars, known as Cedar Bluff. 

At the upper side of this point stood the remains of an old Pawnee 
village, which had been deserted by its inhabitants immediately after 
the bloody battle between that nation and the Sioux, at the mouth of Ash 
creek. 

The bottom, for several miles above, is rarely excelled in fertility. 
The islands are generally timbered, but the river banks upon both sides 
are almost entirely destitute of trees of any kind. 

From Cedar Bluff, in about eight miles, we came to the mouth of a 
large and beautiful creek, forcing its way, with a clear and rapid current, 
from the high rolling prairies to the north. This presented the appear- 
ance of being skirted with broad and fertile bottoms, well supplied with 
timber among the hills. Though vested with some importance on ac- 
count of its size and locality, it is as yet nameless — the abundance of 
plovers in its vicinity at the time of my passing, suggested the term " Plo- 
ver creek" as a proper appellation. 

Five or six miles further on, we came to a large grove of cottonwood 
upon the right shore. Here, some five years since, a company of traders, 
while descending the Platte in boats loaded with furs, made cache of one 
hundred and sixty packs of robes, which they were compelled to leave on 
account of the low stage of the water. The luckless party, after enduring 
great hardships, arrived in the States ; but their cache was subsequently 
plundered by Pawnees. 

The confluence of the North and South Forks made but little perceptible 
difference in the size of the river. From the junction, in five days' time 
we reached the vicinity of Grand Island, about two hundred and twenty 
miles from the nearest white settlements. 



EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 151 

The high prairie upon the north shore, between the above points, is gen- 
erally sandy. The river presents numerous clusters of islands, most of 
which are heaviiy timbered and clothed with luxuriant growths of vegeta- 
tion. The soil Is of a deep, sandy loam, and well adapted to cultivation. 
I noticed upon them several choice wild flowers of rare beauty. 

We experienced great difficulty in forcing our boats through a large 
group, called the " Thousand Islands," that thickly studded the river for 
some ten miles, and, before clearing them, found our passage completely 
blockaded. ~ 

Having consumed an entire day in vain effort to proceed, we were at 
length compelled to abandon the idea. The water was constantly falling, 
and our condition hourly becoming worse. This forced upon us the dernier 
resort of performing the remainder of our arduous journey on foot. 

Accordingly, making cache of the personal property with us, we sunk our 
barges in a deep hole near by, threw all extra clotliing into the river, and, 
each selecting a robe with as much meat as he could carry, we commenced 
our weary tramp. 

The property thus disposed of was of the value of several hundred dollars. 
Among other articles left in cache, were arms and tools of various kinds. 

No one would now carry a gun, — as we were to pass through a section 
of country destitute of game, and, being obliged to travel with all possible 
despatch to avoid starvation, good policy prompted us to dispense w-ith every 
unnecessary encumbrance. For myself, however, I was unwilling to re- 
linquish my rifle, and determined to take it with me. 

There were fourteen of us, including the coups de harqueite of the Ameri- 
can Fur Company ; and, as we trudged along at a pace enfeebled by a series 
Oi cruel hardships, fatigue, and starvation, — with provisions and beds bound 
in close bundles and strapped to our backs, — half-naked, long-bearded, care- 
worn, and haggard, — we looked like the last remnants of hard times ! 

The 28th of June dated the commencement of this last stage of our tire- 
some pilgrimage. 

Having travelled some ten or twelve miles, we espied a camp of whites 
a short distance in advance, and were observed by them almost at the same 
time. Our appearance created an evident consternation, — their horses were 
driven in with great speed, and their guns stripped ready for action, while 
our or five men, mounted upon fleet chargers, rode out to reconnoitre. 

On ascertaining the cause of their alarm to be only a handful of unarmed 
men, they ventured up, and were saluted with the cordiality of old acquain- 
tances, so rejoiced were we at tlie sight of anything savormg of the endear- 
ments of home and civilization. 

The company proved one in the employ of the United States Government, 
under the command Lieut. J. C. Fremont, of the Corps of Topographical 
Engineers, on an expedition for the exploration and survey of the country 
laying between the Missouri river and the mountains. 

The commandant seemed a genileman of urbanity and intelligence, and 
politely furnished us with all the passing news of the day preceding his 
departure from the States. 

Our smokers and tobacco-chewers, who had been for sometime withoui 
the sina qua non of the mountaineer, now procured a re-supply for the indul- 
gence of their filthy and unnatural taste. 



152 INDIAN KINDNESS. 



Leaving our new-found friends, we continued on for a few miles, and 
halted a brief interval under the shade of a cottonwood grove. While thus 
reclining upon the green grass, what was our surprise at seeing three In- 
dians, who appeared suddenly in our midst extending their hands to greet 
us! 

They belonged to a war-party of Chyennes, — had been to the Pawnees, 
and were now on their return, with three horses captured from the enemy. 

Continuing our course, towards sundown I began to find my rifle rather 
cumbersome, and, yielding to the advice of all hands, threw it away. 

Having travelled till late at night, we laid ourselves down in the trail 
for repose ; — the musquetoes, however, together with the heat, were so 
annoying, sleep was impossible. 

I never in my life before was so tortured by these relentless persecutors. 
Their sting was far more tolerable to me than the unending hum of their 
music. To exterminate them was a hopeless task, for, at the death of one, 
fifty would come to its funeral, — and to submit quietly to tlieir rapacity and 
be eaten up alive by such loving friends, was more than human flesh and 
blood could endure. 

For three hours I la}'', sweltered by the heat and pierced by the hungry 
myriads that swarmed around, until my agony became so great it obtained 
the mastery of reason, and I was scarcely self-conscious whether a being 
of earth or an inhabitant of the realms of woe. 

In the height of my phrenzy I fancied four demons had hold of the ex- 
tremities of my robe, and were fiercely dragging me over a prairie of sharp 
rocks, that tore my flesb at every bound. The remainder of the party suf- 
fered equally with myself, and none of them were permitted to close their 
eyes that night. 

June 29th. We started at early day, and pursued our journey till ten 
o'clock, which brought us to the foot of Grand Island, — a distance of sixty 
miles from the place of our adventure with the Indians during the previous 
afternoon. Here we indulged in a slight repast, and, rechning upon the 
grass, enjoyed a few hours' sleep, despite the continued annoyance of mus- 
quetoes. 

On arousing to resume the painful march, our legs were found in a very 
unenviable plight, and almost refused to sustain the accustomed burthen. 
Our feet, also, (softened and made tender by the mollifying effects of the 
water, to which they had been so long familiar, and, unused to the offices 
now newly forced upon them,) were sore and swollen to a frightful size. 
From this on, our journey was most intensely painful. 

But, notwithstanding all, we were compelled to keep moving, though our 
progress seemed more like the passage of Mahomet's " bridge of swords " 
than aught else imaginable. 

July 2d. This morning our stock of provisions was entirely exhausted, 
and yet a long distance intervened between us and the settlements. 

Towards night, however, chance brought us in the way of a plentiful 
supper, by our encountering the Pawnee village on its way to the buf- 
falo range. We were entertained by the head chief in a hospitable 
manner, who furnished us bountifully with boiled corn and mush; and 



PART COMPANY. 153 

we were also invited into several shantees with the same kind in- 
tention. 

The Pawnee chief (Red Eagle, if my recollection serves me right) 
was a generous old fellow, aged some sixty years. His benevolence 
was truly exemplary, as his conduct well attested. My moccasins, be- 
ing much worn by long usage, exposed to the ground the bottoms of 
my feet. This was no sooner discovered by the noble-hearted old man, 
than he pulled off his ovs^n (a pair of new ones) and gave them to me ! 

What white man would have done the like ? And this was done 
by the poor Indian, not from the expectation of reward, but through the 
promptings of an innate benevolence ! A small tin-cup, taken witli me 
thus far, was the only return in my power to make. 

Leaving the village a little before sundown, we encamped for the 
night near the houses recently occupied by these Indians, after having 
travelled seven or eight miles. Their buildings are coniform, and con- 
structed of earth and timber, very similar to those of the Kansas tribe, 
described in a previous cliapter. 

Several years ago, the Pawnees were a numerous and powerful na- 
tion, possessing an extensive territory, and occupying five large towns, 
viz : one upon the Republican branch of the Kansas river, one at the 
forks of the Platte, one south of the Arkansas near the Cumanche coun- 
try, one on Loup creek, and one some ninety miles above the mouth of 
the Platte. These several divisions were known by the terms of Pic, 
Mahah, Republican, Loup, and Grand Pawnees. The Riccarees, speaking 
the same language, may also be reckoned a fraction of this tribe. The 
five villages before named are now reduced to two, i. e. on Loup creek and 
above the mouth of the Platte. 

The whole number of the Pawnee nation, exclusive of the Riccarees, 
probably does not exceed six thousand souls. All of the western tribes 
being at war with them, their numerical strength is continually dimin- 
ishing. 

Slight advances have been made towards improving the condition of this 
nation, but, as yet, with little apparent success. A farmer, blacksmith, and 
schoolmaster are provided them under the patronage of the U. S. Govern- 
ment, and a missionary is also stationed among them by the American 
Board of Foreign Missions. 

They raise corn * and other vegetables, but their principal dependence 
for subsistence is upon the proceeds of hunting. Their general character 
is stamped with indolence, treachery and cowardice, for which they have 
become famous, not only among the whites, but also among their rude 
neighbors, — having thus attained the hatred of both. 

July 3c?. This morning we parted company, and each of us undertook 
to make his way to Council Bluff according to the best of his ability. 
Being entirely destitute of food, it became us to urge our course with all 
possible dispatch. 

* I noticed one cornfield, near the village, that contained sixty acres or more, and 
in appearance savored much of civilized agriculture. 



154 NOTES BY THE WAY. 

July 4th. Accompanied by two others, in an equally forlorn condition, 
the " glorious fourth " finds me plodding along, over an open prairie, be- 
neath the scorching rays of a summer's sun, unarmed, half-naked, with a 
shouldered pack, and not having had a morsel to eat for the past two days. 

It is now I think of the festal boards and scenes of good cheer so omni- 
present upon Freedom's birth-day in the land of my nativity ! Mine is 
a mode of celebrating Independence, that I care not ever again to observe. 

On the 6th we reached the Ottoe mission and obtained food, after an ab- 
stinence of four successive days. 

Early in the morning of the 7th we arrived at Council Bluff on the 
Missouri, eight miles above the mouth of the Platte, and nearly four hun- 
dred above Fort Leavenworth. In the course of the day following our 
whole party came in, one after another — some of whom had become so 
weakened by hardship and deprivation they could scarcely move a dozen 
yards without stumbhng ! 

Having remained a few days at Council Bluff to recruit our strength, we 
procured canoes and descended the Missouri. The 21st inst. found me at 
Independence, Mo., after an absence of nearly nine months, — having con- 
sumed seventy-five days upon my return voyage, and, in the meantime, ex- 
perienced a series of suffering and misfortunes seldom equalled and rarely 
surpassed. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Tlie country between the Pawnee village and Belle vieu, and from that to Fort 
Leavenworth. — Leave Independence for the Mountains. — Meet Pawnees. — In- 
dian hospitality.— Journey up the South Fork Platte.— Fort Grove.— Beaver creek. 
— Bijou. — Chabonard's camp. — Country described. — Medicine Lodge. — The Chy- 
ennes ; their character and history. — Arrive at Fort Lancaster. — Different locaUties 
in its neighborhood.— Fatal Duel.— Ruins. 

The country travelled over from the Pawnee village to Council Bluff 
(or Bellevieu, as more recently called) is generally possessed of a rich, 
clayey soil, which is well adapted to cultivation. 

Large quantities of timber skirt the streams, that include all the varie- 
ties found in the States. The landscape is beautifully undulating, and, at 
the time of our passing it, was covered with a luxuriant growth of vege- 
tation, (the grass being frequently waist high.) and ornamented by rare 
specimens of wild flowers. 

The Pawnees, Ottoes, and Omahas possess the whole extent of this ter- 
ritory, which embraces much valuable land within its limits. That north 
of the river and adjacent to Bellevieu is owned by the Pottowatomies, who 
also cluim to the boundary between Iowa and Missouri. 



UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTER. 155 

The Kickapoos, lowas, Sacs, and Foxes occupy the country south of the 
Missouri, from the mouth of the Platte to Fort Leavenworth. 

All of this interval possesses a fertile soil, is well watered and passably 
well timbered. A more particular description of it, however, does not pro- 
perly come within the limits of this work. 

Upon my arrival at Independence, affairs were in a rather confused state. 
Times were hard and all kinds of business at their lowest ebb. The com- 
pany for which I had acted had become bankrupt, and left me a loser to no 
inconsiderable amount. But, notwithstanding this unfavorable aspect of 
things, I decided upon returning to the Mountains for the purpose of visit- 
ing the different regions adjacent to them. 

Acting upon this resolution, I expended the means at my immediate com- 
mand for the procurement of an outfit; — and the beginning of August saw 
me again en route, accompanied by two experienced mountaineers — all of 
US mounted upon hardy mules and well provided for the journey before us. 

The first four or five days subsequent, our progress was much impeded 
by successive rains, that rendered the road muddy and ourselves uncom- 
fortable. We were necessitated to raft the Wakarousha, and the Kansas 
was so swollen it was forded with great difficulty, — the water frequently 
covering the backs of our animals. 

From that onward we enjoyed pleasant weather and journeyed without 
further interruption ; — nothing occurred worth note, till we reached the 
Pawnee range, near the head of Big Blue. 

One morning, while travelling along unconcernedly and at our leisure, 
having as yet observed nothing to excite our apprehensions, a Pawnee sud- 
denly made his appearance directly in front of us. 

Such a customer, had we been aware of his proximity, would have been 
most carefully avoided, in a place so dangerous as this ; but, as he had first 
discovered us, it was now too late to give him the slip, and we accordingly 
permitted his approach, greeting liim in a friendly manner. 

He immediately informed us that the whole country was full of his peo- 
ple returning from their summer-hunt, and he invited us to accompany him 
to the village. This we declined, being unwilling to trust either him or 
his people. 

Observing several other " shaved heads " hurrying towards us from over 
the adjoining hills, we struck camp and prepared for the expected rencoun- 
ter. Upon coming near, however, they appeared friendly and were most 
of them unarmed. Again we were urged to visit the village. 

After waiting an hour or more, we resumed our course, still followed by 
the unwelcome visitors. A ride of scarcely a half mile brought us to the 
top of a hill, and, to our surprise, placed us in the immediate precincts of 
the village, — too far advanced for a retreat. 

The entire population was instantly in motion, and came crowding to- 
wards us upon every side. Pushing boldly forward, we were received by 
the same kind-hearted old chief of whom I had occasion to speak in the 
preceding chapter. On recognizing me, I was welcomed with great cor- 
diality, and we were forthwith conducted to his shantee and sumptuously 
entertained upon the choicest in his possession. 



156 JOURNEY UP SOUTH FORK PLATTE. 



Our camp-equipage and other articles were all safely disposed of, and 
nothing conducive to our pleasure or comfort was left unattended to. Dur- 
ing our entire stay, we were beset with invitations to feasts which w^ere 
prepared expressly for us by these hospitable villagers, who appeared dis- 
pleased whenever we declined their acceptance. 

The old chief brought forward his little grandson to shake hands with 
us — remarking, that he would teach his children like himself to love the 
Americans. 

A small sack filled with papers was then laid before me for perusal. 
They consisted of recommendations, speaking in very flattering terms of 
the bearer, Red Eagle, and belauding his kindness and liberality. Most 
willingly would I have complied with his request, and made "the paper 
talk " for him, but the means were not at hand. 

The kind-hearted old man presented us each a pair of moccasins 
and urged our stay till the next morning, — adding : "Some of my men are 
bad, and my heart is sick for them. Should you go before sleep, they 
might follow and rob you. When the morrow's sun has newly risen above 
the prairie, they will have left their foot-prints in the homeward trail, and 
my white brothers may pass unmolested. But, if you will not rest beneath 
the shade of the Red Eagle, wait till the day -king is low, then ride fast till 
the night is old, and thus may you avoid the evil ones who would injure 
you." 

This advice seemed so reasonable, we consented to remain till late in the 
afternoon, when, driving up our animals, we made preparations to start. 

Every article belonging to us was faithfully returned by the old man, 
who ordered for us a present of buffalo meat. Several large pieces were 
accordingly brought by different individuals, of excellent quality, and in 
quantity more than we could well carry. 

This was all a free gift, — no one even hinted at a compensation. Where 
will you find among civilized man generosity and hospitality equal to this ? 

Willing to reward such exemplary conduct, we presented the liberal 
donors with a small supply of sugar, coffee, and tobacco ; and, to our host, 
we gave a knife and some other trifling articles, all of which he received 
with evident gratification. 

Bidding the noble chieftain adieu, we pursued our course in accordance 
with his direction, — travelling nearly all night. 

Early the next morning we struck the Platte, and, in the afternoon, 
reached the point at which myself and others had abandoned our boats. 

On visiting the cache made at that time, not a thing remained ; — it 
had been robbed by the Pawnees, in all probability, as the island was 
covered with the tracks of men and horses. But what afforded still 
more conclusive evidence, was the site of a recent Pawnee encamp- 
ment within some four hundred yards of the place. 

The next morning brought us to the buffalo range, and our fare was one^ 
of continued feasting from that onward. 

Three days subsequently we came to the forks of the Platte, and con-, 
tinned up the south branch, with the design of proceeding to New Mexico, 
by way of Fort Lancaster. 



MEETING AGAIN. 157 

Here we entered a stretch of territory not as yet brought before the read- 
er's notice. 

Passing on, a ride of between fifty and sixty miles brought us to a large 
grove of willows at the mouth of a sand-creek, where we remained the day 
following. 

The vicinity contained the relics of three or four Indian forts, con- 
structed of logs, — one or two of which were in an almost entire state of 
preservation, and afforded a correct illustration of Indian military genius. 
Their forms were oval, and the roofage so complete, we were amply 
sheltered in one of them from a heavy shower which fell during our stay. 

From this point (properly denominated Fort Grove) to the forks, the 
country is rather sterile and rolling, with the exception of the river bottoms, 
which, as usual, are possessed of a rich soil and vary in width from one to 
five miles. There is scarcely a tree, worth naming, upon either bank of 
the river for the whole extent. 

The expanse lying to the northward is quite broken and hilly, with some 
few pines and cedars at the heads of ravines. 

Previous to leaving Fort Grove I experienced an attack of the fever and 
ague, which recurred, at intervals of once in two days, until we reached 
Fort Lancaster. 

Resuming our journey, a ride of some ten miles brought us to the mouth 
of Pole creek, a large affluent of the right shore. This is a clear and 
handsome stream, running through a rich valley of considerable width. Its 
entire course afibrds but very little timber, and the prairie upon either side 
is generally sandy and barren. 

Journeying on about seventy-five miles farther, we came to a large stream 
called la Fuuchett aux Castors, or Beaver Fork. 

This creek heads in the highlands between the Platte and Arkansas, and 
traces its course through a sandy country, varied by diminutive hills of 
clayey soil, for a distance of nearly two hundred miles. It presents many 
beautiful bottoms of a rich vegetable mould, with here and there small clus- 
ters of timber. 

Some forty or fifty miles above Beaver creek, we crossed Bijou, another 
large affluent of the left shore. The water at the mouth of this stream was 
shallow, dispersing itself in several small channels, over a bed of gravel and 
quicksand, about four hundred yards wide, and enclosed by abrupt banks 
of clay and sand. 

For several miles above its junction with the Platte no timber appears ; 
but further on, many large groves relieve the eye, and invite the traveller to 
their shade, while broad meadows and rich bottoms, clothed with grass and 
flowers, cheer the beholder and delight his fancy. 

Aug. dOth. A ride of ten or fifteen miles, from this point, brought us to a 
camp of whites, in the employ of Bent and St. Vrain, occupying a small 
island in the Platte. They were guarding a quantity of robes with which 
they had attempted to descend the river, but were unable to proceed further 
on account of low water. 

I was much gratified at here meeting an old acquaintance, with whom I 
had passed a portion of the previous winter upon White river 



158 MEDICINE LODGE. 

The camp was under the direction of a half-breed, named Chabonard, 
who proved to be a gentleman of superior information. He had acquired a 
classic education and could converse quite fluently in German, Spanish, 
French, and English, as well as several Indian languages. His mind, also, 
was well stored with choice reading, and enriched by extensive travel and 
observation. Having visited most of the important places, both in Eng- 
land, France, and Germany, he knew how to turn his experience to good 
advantage. 

There was a quaint humor and shrewdness in his conversation, so garbed 
with intelligence and perspicuity, that he at once insinuated himself into 
the good graces of listeners, and commanded their admiration and respect. 

The country, between Fort Grove and Cabonard's camp, with the excep- 
tion of the river bottoms, (which were quite fertile and occupied an area, 
upon both banks, varying in width from one hundred yards to five miles,) 
is slightly undulating, and presents two uniform characteristics, — one, a 
thin clayish loam upon a subtratum of sand and gravel, and the other a 
sandy surface, often entirely destitute of vegetation, save, perchance, a 
few scattering spires of coarse grass and a species of prickly burr. 

Various specimens of cadi are found in every direction, and prove a 
frequent source of vexation to the traveller. The landscape discloses a 
scene of dreary sterility, — more to be accounted for by the dryness of the 
climate than any natural defect in the soil. 

The river upon both sides is nearly destitute of timber, and we were 
frequently compelled to use hois de vache for cooking purposes. There is 
also a scarcity of rock, — though, in the neighborhood of Bijou, I observed 
a kind of grayish sandstone, exposed to view in the beds of ravines ; and, 
directly opposite Chabonard's camp, the action of the waters had formed a 
steep wall, some thirty or forty feet liigh, which disclosed a large bed of 
sandstone and slate, with earthy limestone. 

A few miles above Beaver Fork, we obtained a distinct view of the main 
rido-e of the Rocky Mountains with the snowy summit of Long's Peak, 
distant some sixty or sixty-five miles. They appeared like a pile of dark 
clouds just rising from the verge of the horizon, and could be identified only 
by their uniform and stationary position. 

From the time of first entering the buffalo range till we reached Bijou 
creek, our entire course was beset with dense masses of those animals, 
which covered the river bottoms and prairies in all directions, fir as the 
eye could reach. Our usual practice was to kill one every day, and select 
from its carcase the choice portions so well known and highly appreciated 
by mountaineers ; and, calling to aid the varied modes of cooking peculiar 
to hunters, surely never did epicures fare better than we. 

A few miles above Beaver creek we passed the site of a recent Indian en- 
campment, wliere was yet standing the frame-work of a medicine lodge, 
erected by the Chyennes and Arapahos for the performance of their reli- 
gious rites and ceremonies. This was made of light poles, describing an 
amphitheatre with a diameter of some fifty feet. In form it was much like 
the pavilion of a circus, and of sufficient dimensions to contain several 
hundred individuals. 



SKETCH OF THE CHYENNES. 159 



I shall take occasion in subsequent pages to speak of medicine-making, 
and would refer the reader to that part for an explanation of the peculiar 
purposes for which the medicine lodge is constructed. ^ 

The river at Chabonard's camp is reduced fully one half in width, com- 
pared with its size at the forks. The current is also clearer and more 
rapid. Its banks and islands are much better timbered, and its general ap- 
pearance indicates an approach to the mountains. 

About noon we bade farewell to our new friends, by whom we had been 
kindly entertained, and resumed our journey, accompanied by my whilom 
companion and two others, — increasing our number to six. 

Towards sundown, coming to a small village of Chyennes, we passed the 
night in the lodge of a chief, called the Tall Soldier. Our host treated us 
with much civility, but in this he appeared actuated only by selfish motives, 
and with the sole view of extorting a more than fourfold equivalent by 
way of presents. 

We were also continually harassed by beggars from all quarters, and 
gladly availed ourselves of the first dawn of the ensuing morning to pass 
on, and thus escape their importunities. 

The Chyennes at this time occupy a portion of the Arapaho lands, bor- 
dering upon the South Fork and its affluents. 

Some six or eight years since, they inhabited the country in the vicinity 
of the Chyenne and White rivers and the North Fork of Platte, from vv^hence 
they were driven by the hostile incursions of the Sioux, who now hold in 
quiet possession tlie whole of that territory. 

This tribe, in general appearance, dress, and habits, assimilates most of 
the mountain and prairie Indians, with the single exception, perhaps, of be- 
ing meaner than any other. They are certainly more saucy as beggars, 
and impudent and daring as thieves, than any other I ever became acquainted 
with. 

Formerly they were a much better people, but the contaminating effects 
of intercourse with the whites have made a disposition, naturally bad, im- 
measurably worse. Contrary to Indian character in general, they are 
treacherous and unworthy of trust, at all times and in all places. ' 

Their history contains a small speck of romance, which may not prove 
altogether uninteresting to the curious. 

The Cliyennes, at tlie present time, number about four hundred lodges; 
and claim some eight hundred warriors. The tribe is composed of two 
divisions, viz : the Chyennes and Gros Ventres, — both speaking the same 
language and practising the same designation of nationality, shown in 
sundry transverse scars upon the left arm. 

Neither of these divisions know their origin, but tell the following curious 
story of their first intercourse with each other. 

Many years since, the Chyennes, while travelling from a north country, 
discovered the Gros Ventres, who were also upon a journey. As usual 
among strange tribes, both parties rushed to the attack, and a bloody battle 
would undoubtedly have been the result, had it not been stayed by the mu- 
tual discovery of an identity of language. Upon this, hostility at once gave 



160 A BROKEN COMPANY. 

place to friendship, and the two parties negotiated an immediate union^ 
Since then they have been considered as one nation. 

What is most singular in this occurrence, neither the Gros Ventres nor 
Chyennes could trace any previous connection or intercourse with each 
other, or knowledge of their individual existence. 

This tribe has made no advances in civilization, and most probably will 
make none for many years to come. Their roving and unsettled habits 
prove an obstacle, almost insuperable, to any efforts that may be underta- 
ken for their improvement. 

They are generally accounted friendly to the whites, but friendship hke 
this is essentially of a dangerous character. 

Continuing our journey, the evening of Sept. 2d brought us to Fort 
Lancaster, after an interval of twenty-six days, during which we had 
travelled not far from seven hundred and twenty miles. 

Our route from Chabonard's camp to this point, for the most part, led 
along the valley of the Platte, which resembled a garden in the splendor of 
its fields and the variety of its flowers. 

A ride of four or five miles took us across the dry bed of a large sand- 
creek, four or five hundred yards wide, known as the Kuyawa. The banks 
of this arroyo are very steep and high, disclosing, now and then, spreads of 
beautiful bottom lands with occasional groves of cottonwood. At this sea- 
son of the year its waters are lost in the quicksand and gravel. 

We also passed the mouths of three large affluents of the right bank 
of Platte, severally known as Crow creek. Cache a la Poudre, and Thomp- 
son's Fork. 

These creeks rise in the adjoining mountains, and, with the exception of 
Crow creek, trace their way with clear and rapid currents, from two to 
three feet deep and sixty feet wide, over beds of sand and pebbles. Their 
valleys are broad, rich, and for the most part well timbered. 

Timber increases in quantity, upon the Platte and its affluents, as the 
traveller approaches the mountains, and the sofl gradually loses that with- 
ering aridity so characteristic of the grand prairie. 

Twelve miles below Fort Lancaster we passed Fort George, a large 
trading post kept up by Bent and St. Vrain. Its size rather exceeds that of 
Fort Platte, previously described; it is built, however, after the same 
fashion, — as, in fact, are afl the regular trading posts in the country. At 
this time, fifteen or twenty men were stationed there, under the command 
of Mr. Marsalina St. Vrain. 

Six miles further on. we came to a recently deserted post, which had 
been occupied the previous winter and summer by Messrs Lock and Ran- 
dolph. 

One of our party, a whilom engage of this company, informed me of its 
principals' becoming bankrupt, through mismanagement and losses of various 
kinds ; — he stated, that, in May last, their entire " cavalhard," consisting ot 
forty-five head of horses and mules, had been stolen by the Sioux Indians ; 
this, in connection with other bad luck — together with the depreciated value 
of furs and peltries, the failure of a boat-load of robes to reach the 
States, the urgent demands of creditors, «&c., had caused them to evacuate 
their post and quit the country. 



RUINS. 161 

A short distance above this, at a point of timber occupying- a large bot- 
tom, had been the scene of a fatal duel the previous winter, between two 
whites by the names of Herring- and Beer. On my first arrival in the 
country 1 had become acquainted with both of the actors, and felt much in- 
terested in the details of the bloody affair as related by one present at the 
time of its unfortunate occurrence. The difficulty between them related 
to a Mexican woman from Taos, — the wife of Herring. 

Backed by a number of personal friends, and anxious to obtain the lady 
from her husband, the former had provoked a quarrel and used very insult- 
ing language to his antagonist. This was received with little or no reply, 
but soon, however, resulted in a challenge which was promptly accepted. 

The preliminaries were arranged in confident expectation of killing Her- 
ring, who was considered a poor marksman, especially at an oft-hand shot. 
The v/eapons selected by Beer were rifies, the distance fifty yards, the man- 
ner oft-hand, and the time of shooting between the word fire and three. 
The two met, attended by their friends, at the time and place agreed upon, — 
at the word "^re," the ball of Beer's rifte was buried in a cottonwood a 
few inches above the head of his antagonist, — at the word "i'/i?-ee" the con- 
tents of Herring's rifle found lodgement in the body of Beer, who fell and 
expired in a few minutes. 

Between this point and Fort Lancaster, I noticed the ruins of another 
trading post, much dilapidated in appearance, and nearly levelled with the 
ground. 

Passing along, I could not refrain from musing upon the frequent deeds 
of mischief and iniquity that had originated within them, in connection with 
the infamous liquor traffic. Ah, thought I, were those bricks possessed of 
tongueS; full many a tale of horror and guilt would they unfold, to stand 
the Ustener's " hair on end," and make his blood run cold ! But, lost in 
silent unconsciousness, they refuse to ^peak the white man's shame I 



11 



162 



CHAPTER XX. 

01(1 acquaintances. — Indian murders. — Mode of travelling in a dangerous country.— 
Mexican traders. — Summary way of teaching manners. — Fort Lancaster and sur- 
rounding country. — Resume journey. — Clierry creelc and connecting observations. — 
Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. — Camp of free traders.— 
Blackfoot camp. — Daugherty's creek. — Observations relative to the Divide. — Mex- 
ican cupidity.— Strange visitors.— The lone travellers.— Arrive at the Arkansas. — 
General remarks.— Curious specimens of cacti — Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural 
Soda-fountain. — Indian superstition. — Enchanting scenery. — Extraordmary wall of 
sandstone. 

At Fort Lancaster I was gratified by meeting with several acquaintances 
of the previous winter, two of whom had been comrades during a part 
of my unfortunate and adventurous voyage down the Platte. 

My appearance created no little surprise and pleasure, on all sides. 
Queries of various kinds were industriously plied, relative to the latest 
news from the States, and also in reference to the miseries and hardships 
undergone during the interval of my absence. The dangers of our mode 
of travelling were freely expatiated upon, and numerous instances of recent 
Indian hostilities cited to prove our " fool daring." 

Among the latter was an outrage perpetrated by the Chyennes, only two 
weeks previous, in the murder of three white men, — one of whom was the 
oldest trapper in the mountains, and had been for some time engaged in the 
fur trade. 

The murderers had the impudence to ask a scalp-feast from the com- 
mandant of the Fort, according to custom in case of overcoming their ene- 
mies in battle ! The hair, however, being recognized as that of a white 
man, no feast was given. When accused of the murder, they apologized 
by saying the poor fellow was suffering greatly at the time from recent 
wounds, and they had killed him out of pity ! 

In our mode of travelling, we always used due precaution to avoid sur- 
prise and attack. This is easily done, while among buffalo, by noticing 
their movements, — as these animals invariably flee across the wind upon 
the approach of man, and neither Indians nor w^hites can traverse their 
range without setting the whole cotmtry in motion. 

We observed another plan of caution by frequently ascending some emi 
nence, and scanning the wide expanse, far and near. 

Our general practice was to travel till night, and camp without fire in the 
open prairie, thus precluding the possibility of being discovered, even though 
in the immediate vicinity of Indians. 

A party of three or four men can pass through a dangerous country and 
avoid coming in contact with enemies, provided they exercise a needful vigi- 
lance much more easily than one of larger numbers. With a large company 



MEXICANS IN THE MOUNTAINS. 163 

too much dependence is reposed in each other, which soon results in indi- 
vidual carelessness and neglect. Added to this, they are apt to rely upon 
their numerical strength, and, forgetting this simple truism, that " caution is 
the parent of safety," rush into danger when they are least aw are of it. It 
thus occurs that large parties are more liable to surprise than smaller 
ones, and more frequently sutler losses from the depredations of prowling 
enemies. 

On the contrary, where but three or four individuals are travelling together, 
they trust exclusively to their own personal vigilance. Keenly alive to 
every suspicious appearance, they seldom fail to discover the presence of 
danger without exposing themselves, and may avoid it by a timely retreat 
or change of course. 

There is httle risk in an open prairie, in case an enemy is first seen by 
the party wishing to shun his presence ; — they have only to manoeuvre in 
such a manner as to elude observation, (a thing not often dilficult,) and all 
is safe. In subsequent travels through dangerous countries I have always 
acted upon these suggestions, and never yet found them to fail. 

Some twelve or fifteen Mexicans were at this time present at the Fort. 
They constituted a trading party from Taos, escorting a caravan of pack- 
horses and mules, laden with flour, corn, bread, beans, onions, dried 
pumpkin, salt, and pepper, to barter for robes, skins, furs, meat, moccasins, 
bows and arrows, ammunition, guns, coflee, calico, cloth, tobacco, and old 
clothes, which were to compose their return freight. 

A worse looking set was here presented than that previously described 
in the second chapter of this volume. Some of them were as black as 
veritable negroes, and needed only the curly hair, thick lips, and flattened 
nose, to define the genuine Congo in appearance. A more miserable look- 
ing gang of filthy half-naked, ragamuffins, I never before witnessed. 

Their cargoes had already been disposed of at various prices, according 
to circumstances. Flour and meal were sold at from four to six dollars per 
fanega, (one hundred and twenty pounds,) and other articles at like prices. 
Their first asking price was at the rate of twenty dollars ^^qv fanega; but 
an alfray which occurred with a small party of Americans, immediately 
upon their arrival, had made IIiqsq produce merchants much more reasonable 
in their demands. 

The particulars of the affair were rather disgraceful to both parties. 
The Americans, anxious to purchase a quantity of flour, oflered to take it 
at the asking price, provided the Mexicans would receive their pay in robes 
of a rather indifferent quality. This the latter refused and a dispute arose, 
when insulting language was used on both sides, coupled with threats of 
mutual injury. 

The Mexicans retired a short distance and camped, — soon after the 
Americans, four in number, rushed among them and drove off their entire 
cavaUard, containing twenty head of horses and mules. The Mexicans 
seized their arms for resistance, and the commandante advancing demanded 
of the nearest assailant : 

" Que quiere, cabellero ?" (what do you want, sir ?) 

" Yotenga lo caballardo, — porque dicirme esta?" (I have your horses, — 
why do you ask ?) 



164 FORT LANCASTER, ETC. 

" Carraho, Americana !" said tiie Mexican, levelling his gun at the speaker. 
In an instant a pistol-shot from the latter laid him prostrate, — the ball en- 
tering his chest near the heart. No further resistance was offered, and the 
assailants retired with their booty. 

The next morning, however, they returned, and the two parties com- 
promised the matter by certain conciliatory arrangements, which resulted in 
the Americans giving up the captured animals, on condition that the Mexi- 
cans should in future be less insolent and conduct their trade on more 
reasonable terms. 

The wounded man recovered in three or four weeks, and was now ready 
to accompany his party on their homeward-bound journey. 

A large number of Mexicans are employed at the different trading posts 
in this vicinity. They prove quite useful as horse-guards, and also in 
taking care of cattle and doing the drudgery connected with these estab- 
lishments. 

Their wages vary from four to ten dollars per month, which they receive 
in articles of traffic at an exhorbitant price ; — viz : calicoes, (indifferent 
quality,) from fifty cents to one dollar per yard ; blue cloth, from five to ten 
dollars per do. ; powder, two dollars per lb. ; lead, one do. do. ; coffee, one 
do. do. ; tobacco, from two to three do. do. ; second liand robes, two dollars 
apiece, — and everything else in proportion. 

Their wages for a whole year, in actual value, bring them but a trifling 
and almost nameless consideration. Notwithstanding, these miserable 
creatures prefer travelling four hundred miles to hire for such diminutive 
wages, rather than to remain in their own country and work for less. 
They know of no better way to get a living, and are, therefore, happy in 
their ignorance, and contentedly drag out a Vv'retched existence as best they 
may. 

After a period of service they generally return home laden with the pal- 
try proceeds of their toil, and, yielding to the impulses of custom, a single 
fandango is sufficient to leave them penniless like the squalid crowd with 
whom they mingle. 

A week's stay at the Fort restored me to health and soundness from the 
debilitating efiects of the fever and ague, without a resort to medicine. 
This disease (the first and only attack of which I ever experiencedj had 
made fearful inroads upon my strength during the short interval of its con- 
tinuance, and rendered me unfit for travelling ; — but, a change of climate 
and the inhalation of the pure mountain air eflectcd a permanent and speedy 
cure, in a much less time than I had reason to expect. 

Fort Lancaster occupies a pleasant site upon the south bank of the Platte 
river, about nine hundred miles from its mouth, and seven hundred and 
twenty from Independence, in lat. 40° 12' 25'' north, long. 105° 53' 11" 
west from Greenwich. The distance from this point to the dividing ridge 
of the Rocky Mountains is about thirty-five miles, and from Taos, in New 
Mexico, between three and four hundred miles. 

Long's Peak with its eternal snow appears in distinct view to the west- 
ward, and imparts to the sunset scenery a beauty and grandeur rarely wit- 
nessed in any country. This peak is one of the highest of the mountain 
range, being upwards of 13,500 feet above the level of the Gulf of Mexico, 



SKETCH OF THE ARAPAHOS. 165 

and issues from its eastern side the waters of the Atlantic, and from its 
western the tributaries of the Pacific. 

Between the mountains and the Fort, the prairie is generally level, though 
slightly undulating in places ; — it is possessed of a tolerable soil, composed 
of clay and gravel, ever and anon spreading before the traveller rich val- 
leys, decked with sweet flowers and lusty herbage. 

The country eastward is rolling, sandy, and sterile ; and, with few ex= 
captions, presents little to attract the eye or please the fancy. 

The Platte bottoms, above and below, are quite heavily timbered and af- 
ford an abundance of grass of various kinds. The soil is of a black, deep 
loam, very rich and weU adapted to cultivation. 

The business transacted at this post is chiefly with the Chyennes, but 
the Arapahos, Mexicans, and Soux also come in for a large share, and 
contribute to render it one of the most profitable trading establishments in 
the country. 

Sept. 10th. Arrangements being completed for resuming my journeyj 
I left Fort Lancaster in company with four others, intending to proceed as 
far as Taos in New Mexico. We were all mounted upon stout horses, and 
provided with two pack-mules for the conveyance of baggage and provi- 
sions. 

Following the trail leading from the Platte to the Arkansas, or Rio Na- 
peste, we continued our way some thirty-five miles, and halted with a camp 
of free traders and hunters, on Cherry creek. 

This stream is an affluent of the Platte, from the southeast, heading in a 
broad ridge of pine hills and rocks, known as the " Divide." It pursues its 
course for nearly sixty miles, through a broad valley of rich soil, tolerably 
well timbered, and shut in for the most part by high plats of table land, — 
at intervals thickly studded with lateral pines, cedars, oaks, and shrubs of 
various kinds, — gradually expanding its banks as it proceeds, and exchang- 
ing a bed of rock and pebbles for one of quicksand and gravel, till it finally 
attains a width of nearly two hundred yards, and in places is almost lost in 
tlie sand. The stream derives its name from the abundance of cherry found 
upon it. 

The country passed over from the Fort to this place, is generally sandy, 
but yields quite a generous growth of grass. VVe passed, in our course, 
the dry beds of two transient creeks, one eight, and the other fifteen miles 
from the Fort. 

Our route bore nearly due south for twenty miles, following the Platte 
bottom to the mouth of Cherry creek, thence southeast, continuing up the 
valley of the latter. The Platte presented heavy groves of timber upon both 
banks, as did also its islands, while its bottoms appeared fertile. 

The mountains, some fifteen miles to our right, towering aloft with their 
snow-capped summits and dark frowning sides, looked like vast piles of 
clouds, big with storm and heaped upon the lap of earth ; while the vapor- 
scuds that flitted around them, seemed as the ministers of pent up wrath, m 
readiness to pour forth their torrents and deluge the surrounding plains, or 
let loose the fierce tornado and strew its path with desolation. 

Three or four miles before reaching our present camp, we passed a vil- 
lage of tlie Arapahos on its way to the mountains, in pursuit of game. 



166 FREE TRADERS. 

Witli this the reader is introduced to that nation for the first time, which- 
affords me occasion to speak of them more particularly. 

The Ara})ahos are a tribe of prairie Indians, inhabitinor the country bor- 
dering upon the South Fork of the Platte and Arkansas rivers. 

Their territory embraces an extent of about forty-five thousand square 
miles, a portion of which is well watered and interspersed with numerous 
fertile spots. Timber is rarely found, except in the creek bottoms and 
among the mountains. A large section of it, however, is dry, sandy, and 
sterile, and almost entirely timberless and destitute of water. The game 
of these regions includes all the varieties common to the mountains, which 
are quite abundant. The territory also possesses large mineral resources, 
and includes among its stores of hidden wealth, gold, silver, copper, lead, 
iron, coal, soda, nitre, salt, and sulpher, with vast beds of gypsum. 

This nation boasts some five hundred and twenty-five lodges, numbering 
not far from four thousand souls. In appearance, as well as manners and 
customs, they assimilate the Sioux and Chyennes. Their insignia of na- 
tionality is a tattooed breast, by which they are distinguished from neigh- 
boring tribes. They aflbrd to the observer the rare instance of increasing 
numt)ers in an Indian population. 

The Arapalios since their first treaty with the whites, some fifteen years 
ago, have maintained terms of the strictest friendship on their part. They 
have never been knowm to kill or even injure a white man in the interval, 
and rarely to steal from him any article of value. They seem to take pleas- 
ure in the bestowmient of kindness and hospitahty upon such whenever in 
their power, but commonly in expectation of reward, and are exceedingly 
annoying as beggars. 

These Indians, though brave, are less warlike than contiguous tribes, — 
being at variance only with the Utahs and Pawnees, who.3e countries are 
severally invaded as occasion serves, and often with success. 

They possess considerable taste for trafficing, and regularly meet the 
Sioux, Chyennes, Cumanches, and Kuyawas for that purpose, and many 
of them know how to drive as good a bargain as the most expert Yankee. 

Notwithstanding the many good qualities possessed by them, they are in- 
ferior to their neighbors in morality. The Sioux and Chyennes are far 
more chaste, and never indulge in the low practices common with the Arap- 
ahos. Virtue with the former is guarded by the strictest vigilance and 
jealousy, while with the latter it is made the minister of lust and is prosti- 
tuted for a paltry bribe. 

As yet no eflfort has been made for their improvement, though I regard them 
as more susceptible of civilization than any other of the prairie tribes. They 
appear to be great admirers of the manners, customs, arts, and mode of liv- 
ing prevalent among the whites, and only lack the requisite instruction to 
become their successful imitators. 

The camp at which we are at present located consists of four lodges, — 
three of whites, and one of Blackfoot Indians. 

Each of the whites has his squaw wife, and the usual accompaniment of 
ruddy faced children. In regard to the latter, I must say they were more 
beautiful, interesting, and intelligent than the same number of full-bloods, — 
either of whites or Indians. 



BEARS. 167 

These men were living after the fashion of their new-found relatives, and 
seemed to enjoy themselves as well as circumstances would admit. They 
had a number of horses, with the requisite supply of arms and ammunition,— 
the sure sources of wealth and comfort in a country abounding with game. 

The Indian family were relatives by marriage, and were one of some fif- 
teen lodges of Blackfeet among the Arapahos, who forsook their own na- 
tion, on account of its uncompromising hostility to the white--;. Quite a 
number of these Indians have also joined the Sioux and Nesperces, for a 
like reason. 

We were entertained very kindly by our new friends who spared no effort 
to render our stay agreeable. Among the delicacies set before us, was 
one deserving of notice, — it consisted of the fruit of prickly pears (cacti) 
boiled in water for some ten or twelve hours till it became perfectly soft, 
when it was compressed through a thin cloth into the fluid in which it liad 
been boiled. This forms a delicious variety in mountain fare, and one highly 
stimulating and nutritious. 

The immense quantities of cadi fruit found near the mountains, at the 
proper season, render the above an entertainment not uncommon. 

Se'pt. loth. Again under way ; after a ride of fifteen miles, night finds us 
at Blackfoot-camp, snugly chambered in a spacious cave, to avoid the disa- 
greeable effects of a snow-storm that comes upon the reluctant prairie with 
all the withering keenness of winter. 

The cave affording us shelter is formed in an abrupt embankment of lime- 
stone, that marks the eastern limits of a beautiful valley through which a 
small affluent of Cherry creek traces its way. The floor is of dry gravel 
and rock, about fifty feet long by fifteen wide, while upon one side a crystal 
spring presents its tempting draughts. Thus chambered, a small fire soon 
rendered us comfortable and happy, notwithstanding the dreary weather 
without. 

Our course during the day bore southward, and led from the valley of 
Cherry creek to an interesting plateau, furrowed at intervals by deep can- 
ons, enclosing broad bottoms of rich alluvion, and ridged upon either hand 
by high hills of pine and ledges of naked rock. 

The streams are generally timberless, — the soil of the highlands is of a 
red, clayey mould, and quite fertile. Instead of the aridity inoident to the 
neighboring prairies, it is usually humid. 

The country hereabouts, for an extent of upwards one thousand square 
miles, is much subject to storms of rain, hail, snow, and wind, — and it is 
rarely a person can pass through it without being caught by a storm of 
some kind. I can account for this in no other way than by supposing it 
has some connection with the vast quantities of minerals lying embedded in 
its hills and valleys. 

Sept. 14:th. Morning was ushered in with a pleasant sunshine, that soon 
caused the snow of the past night to yield beneath its melting influences. 

When on the point of raising camp, an old grizzly bear made her appear- 
ance with three cubs. An efibrt to approach her proved futile, — she, hav- 
ing snuffed the closeness of danger with the breeze, made a hasty retreat 
with her offspring. 



163 NIGHT VISITORS. 

I allude to the above incident for this reason, that it is generally supposed 
the bear produces but two at a birth. 

Continuing our journey till late at night, we reached an affluent of Fori' 
taine qui Bouit, called Daugherty's creek, after travelling a distance of 
some thirty miles. Here we remained for three or four days, to procure a 
further supply of provisions. 

The route from Blackfoot-camp, for the most part, led over a rough 
country, interspersed with high piny ridges and beautiful valleys, sustain- 
ing a luxuriant growth of vegetation, which is known as the Divide. 

This romantic region gives rise to several large tributaries both of the 
Platte and Arkansas, and furnishes the main branches of the Kansas. Its 
geological classifications consist of sandstone, limestone, granite, and cre- 
taceous rock. Large quantities of silex are also found, together with 
many interesting specimens of petrifaction that principally consist of pine 
wood ; these, in many cases, exhibit the tree in its perfect shape, with all 
the grains and pores that marked its growth. 

A ride of three hours took us past the heads of Bijou and Kuyawa, 
whose clear and swift currents, confined to narrow beds, here presented a 
striking contrast to those remarked at their confluence wnth the Platte. 

Continuing on a few miles, we reached Black Squirrel creek, an affluent 
of the Arkansas ; and from thence, after a brisk trot for some fourteen 
miles over a nearly level prairie, we came to our present camp. 

Our place of stay was in sweet little valley enclosed by piny ridges. 
The entrance leading to it is through a defile of hills from whose rugged 
sides protrude vast piles of rock, that afford a pass of only fifty or a hun- 
dred yards in width. An abundance of grass greets the eye, arrayed in 
the loveliness of summer's verdancy, and blooming wild-flowers nod to the 
breeze as encliantingly as when the fostering hand of spring first awoke 
them to life and to beauty. 

The creek derives its name from Daugherty, a trader who was murder- 
ed upon it several years since. At the time he was on his way to the Ar- 
kansas with a quantity of goods, accompanied by a Mexican. The latter, 
anxious to procure a few yards of calico that constituted a part of the 
freight, shot him in cold blood, and hastened to Taos with his ill-gotten 
gains, where he unblushingly boasted of his inhuman achievement. 

My excursions among the hills brought before me many interesting 
geological specimens, mostly such as characterize the Divide. I noticed 
two or three extensive beds of stone coal in the vicinity of the creek, with 
an abundance of nitre and other mineral salts. 

Having killed three fine cows during the five days we remained at this 
place, the scent of fresh meat attracted an old bear and her cub, which, in 
the expectation of a choice repast, were induced to pay us a night visit. 

We were quietly reposing at the time, nor dreamed of the ungainly 
monsters within camp, till their harsh growls grated upon our ears and 
raised us each to a speedy consciousness. Instantly every rifle wag 
clenched and levelled at the unwelcome intruders, and two discharges 
bespoke their warm reception. The bears, not fancying this new test 
of friendship, quickly withdrew and permitted us to resume our slumbers. 

Fitzpatrick and Van Dusen, two old mountaineers, passed our en- 



SODA SPRING. 169 



campment, in the interim, on their way to the States. Having devoted a 
number of years to the business of trapping, few possess a more intimate 
knowledge of this country than they. The former of these gentlemen was 
on his return from Oregon with dispatches for the U, S. Government, and 
had acted as pilot for a party of emigrants to that territory during the pre- 
vious summer. After conducting his charge to their place of destination, 
he and his companion had travelled thus far alone,* — a distance of more 
than one thousand miles. 

Sept. I9th. Leaving Daugherty's creek we resumed our course, and 
reached the Arkansas the next day, about noon. Here we encamped in a 
small grove of cottonwood upon the right bank, a few miles above the 
mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit. 

In gaining this point we travelled some forty-five miles, mostly over a 
sandy prairie, s,lightly undulating to the leftward, but, to the right, descri- 
bing the waves of a tempest-tossed ocean. 

Its general character is sterility; the grass gowing thinly and being of a 
coarse kind, with the exception of that of the creek bottoms, which affords 
several varieties of a lusty size, mingled with occasional. spreads of prele — • 
a choice article for the subsistence of horses and mules. 

In passing along, I observed a new species of the cacti family, that grew 
in a shurb-Iike form to a height of five or six feet. Its stalk was round 
and fully an inch in diameter. 

This made the fourth variety of cactus noticed during the past few days. 
Of these, two resemble the common " prickly pear " in their appearance. 
Another species, however, w^as egg-shaped, bearing a fruit much like the 
cranberry in color and form. At the proper season, it also produces a beau- 
tiful red flower, that emits a most agreeable perfume, in some measure 
atoning for its dreaded intrusion upon the path of the wayfarer. 

Fontaine qui Bouit, or the Boiling Fountain, is the name bestowed upon 
a consid rable stream that heads under Pike's Peak, in lat. 38'-* 52' 10" 
north, long. 105° 22' 45'' west from Greenwich, and pursues a southerly 
course till it unites with the Arkansas. 

This name is derived from two singular springs, situated within a few 
yards of each other at the creek's head, both of which emit water in the 
form of vapor, accompanied with a hissing noise — the one strongly impreg- 
nated with su-phur and the other with soda.f 

^ * Before reaching the States, however, he was robbed of everything in his posses- 
sion by a war-party of Pawnees, whom he had imprudently suffered to obtain the 
advantage. He w<mld, doubtless, have been killed had it not been for the determined 
courage of Van Dusen. The latter, seizing his rifle, levelled it at the foremost and 
thus deterred a farther advance : tlien, by an adroit movement, breaking from 
them, set pursuit at defiance through his fleetness of foot. 

The Pawnees, now well aware that further outrages would be made known and 
become a subject of invesrigation by the U. S. Government, forbore their designs, 
and returned to Fitzpatrick his gun and one mule, with whicli he accomjilished the 
remamder of his journey alone. Van Dusen, having succeeded in reaching Bent's 
Forr on the Arkansas, reported his companion as killed by them. 

t Ca.pt. Fremotit, who visited Fontaine qui Bouit in the summer of '43, has furnish- 
ed the following analysis of an incrustaiion with which the water of this spring ha:: 



170 A LOVELY VALLEY. 

The soda water is fully as good as any manufactured for especial use, 
and sparkles and foams with equal effervescence. This spring, though at 
present cool, is said to have been formerly qdite the reverse. Some twen- 
ty years since, the heat was sufficient to cook flesh in an half hour's time, 
if submerged in its waters. 

The Arapahos regard this phenomenon with awe, and venerate it as the 
manifestation of the immediate presence of the Great Spirit. They call it 
the Medicine Fountain^ and seldom neglect to bestow their gifts upon it 
whenever an opportunity is presented. 

These offerings generally consist of robes, blankets, arrows, bows, 
knives, beads, moccasins, &c., which they either throw into the water or 
hang upon the surrounding trees. Sometimes a whole village will visit 
the place for the purpose of paying their united regard to this sacred 
fountain. 

The secenery of the vicinity is truly magnificent. A valley several 
yards in width heads at the springs, overlooking which from the west in 
almost perpendicular ascent tower the lofty summits of Pike's Peak, piercing 
the clouds and revelling in eternal snow, at an altitude of 12,600 feet 
above the level of the sea. 

This valley opens eastward, and is walled in upon the right and left, at 
the mountains' base, by a stretch of high table land, surmounted by oaks 
and stately pines, with now and then an interval displaying a luxuriant 
coating of grass. The soil is a reddish loam, and very rich. The trees 
which skirt the creek as it traces its way from the fountain are generally 
free from under-brush, and show almost as much regularity of position as 
if planted by the hand of art. A lusty growth of vegetation is sustained 
among them to their very trunks, which is garnished by wild flowers, that, 
during the summer months, invest the whole scene with an enchantment 
peculiar to itself. 

The climate too is far milder in this than in adjoining regions, even of 
a more southern latitude. 'Tis here " summer first unfolds her robes, and 
here the longest tarries." The grass, continuing green the entire winter, 
here first feels the genial touch of spring. Snow seldom remains upon the 
ground to exceed a single day, even in the severest weather, while the 
neighboring hills and prairies present their white mantlings for weeks in 
succession. 

As the creek emerges from the mountains, it increases in size by the ac- 
cession of several tributaries, and the valley also expands to a width of 

covered a piece of wood ; and, though probably not a fair test, it will afford the 

reader some idea of its mineral properties : 

Carbonate of lime - - - - - - 92, 25 

Carbonate of magnesia . - . - - 1, 21 

Sulphate of lime 
Chloride of calcium 
Chloride of magnesia 

Silica - - ' 1, 50 

Vegetable matter ...... 20 

Moisture and loss ------ 4, 61 



100, 00 



VICINITY OF THE ARKANSAS. 171 

three or four miles, retaining for a considerable distance the distinguishing 
traits before described. 

The vicinity affords an abundance of game, among which are deer, 
sheep, bear, antelope, elk, and buffalo, together with turkeys, geese, ducks, 
grouse, mountain-fowls, and rabbits. 

Affording, as it does, such magnificent and delightful scenery ; such 
rich stores for the supply of human wants, both to please the taste and en- 
rapture the heart ; so heaven-like in its appearance and character, it is no 
wonder the untaught savage reveres it as the place wherein the Good 
Spirit delights to dwell, and hastens with his free-will offerings to the 
strange fountain, in the full belief that its bubbling waters are the more 
immediate impersonation of Him whom he adores. 

But, there are other scenes adjoining this, that demand a passing notice. 
A few miles above Fontaine qui Bouit, and running parallel with the east- 
ern base of the mountain range, several hundred yards removed from 
it, a wall of coarse, red granite (quite friable and constantly abrading) 
towers to a varied height of from fifty to three hundred feet. 

This wall is formed of immense strata, planted vertically and not ex- 
ceeding eight feet in thickness, with frequent openings — so arranged as to 
describe a complete line. 

The soil in which they appear is of a reddish loam, almost entirely des- 
titute of other rock, even to their very base. 

This mural tier is isolated, and occupies its prairie site in silent majesty, 
as if to guard the approaches to the stupendous monuments of nature's 
handiwork that form the back-ground, disclosing itself to the beholder for 
a distance of more than thirty miles. 



CHAPTER XXL 



Vicinity of the Arkansas. — Settlement. — ^Tbe Pueblo. — Rio San Carlos, its valleys 
and scenery. — Shooting by moonlight. — ^Taos. — Review of the country travelled 
over. — Taos ; its vicmity, scenery, and mines. — Ranchos and Rancheros. — Mexi- 
can houses ; their domestic economy, and filth. — Abject poverty and deplorable 
condition of the lower classes of Mexicans, with a general review of tlieir char- 
acter, and some of the causes contributing to their present degradation. — The Pue- 
blo Indians and their strange notions. — Ancient temple. — Character of the Pueblos 
— Journey to the Uintah river, and observations by the way. — Taos Utahs, Pa- 
utahs, Uintah and Lake Utahs.— The Diggers ; misery of their situation, strange 
mode of living, with a sketch of their character. — The Navijos ; their civilization, 
hostility to Spaniards, ludicrous barbarity, bravery, &c., with a sketch of their 
country, and why they are less favorable to the whites than formerly. 

The Arkansas at this point is a clear and beautiful stream, about one 
hundred and fifty yards wide. It flows over a bed of rock and pebbles, 
with a rapid current, averaging two feet in depth. Its southern bank is 
steep and inducts to a high sandy prairie, which present a somewhat ster- 



172 THE RIO SAN CARLOS. 



ile and denuded appearance. The northern shore affords a wide bottom of 
black loam, generally fertile, and thnbered with occasional groves of Cot- 
tonwood. Beyond this a high undulating prairie, presenting now and then 
a cluster of pines and cedars, leads oft" to the neighboring mountains. 

The river above, for a distance of some forty miles, possesses many 
beautiful valleys, well timbered, and a rich soil, until the traveller arrives 
at the place where it makes its entree from the lofty mountain chain in 
which it heads. 

The land indicates a fitness for agricultural purposes, and holds out 
strong inducements to emigrants. A small settlement of whites and 
half-breeds, numbering fifteen or twenty families, has already been com- 
menced about thirty miles above the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit under 
quite favorable auspicies. The only fears entertained for its success, are 
on account of the Indians. 

Many other localities in this vicinity are equally inviting were it not for 
the character and habits of the surrounding natives. 

At tiie delta, formed by the junction of Fontaine qui Bouit with the 
Arkansas, a trading fort, called the Pueblo, was built during the summer 
of 18-12. This post is owned by a company of independent traders, on 
the common property system ; and, from its situation, can command a 
profitable trade with 'both Mexicans and Indians. Its occupants number 
ten or twelve Americans, most of whom are married to Mexican v/omen. 
while everything about the estabhshment wears the aspect of neatness 
and comfort. 

Sept. 22d. Crossing the Arkansas, I for the first time set foot upon 
Mexican soil. 

. Taking the Taos trail, we continued our way for ten or twelve miles 
and came to the Rio San Carlos. Here the abundance of deer and tur- 
keys was too great a temptation to be resisted, and we remained several 
days to bestow upon them that attention our appetites demanded. 

The country adjacent is very romantic and beautiful. The hills, en 
closing the valley of the San Carlos upon both sides, are high and preci- 
pitous°— atTording numerous groves of pine, pinion,* and cedar. Inter- 
spersed among them are frequent openings and prairillons of rich soil 
and luxuriant" vegetation. The valley is narrow, but fertile and well 
timbered. 

Near the head of the river is a broad area, known as Fisher's-hole, bound- 
ed upon all sides by rugged hills and mountains, inaccessible except by 
a circuitous pass leading into it from the south. Tiie stream forces its 
egress through a ledge of dark-colored rock, several hundred feet in alti- 
tude, leaving vertical walls upon each side for a long distance, that fre- 
quently overhang the gurgling waters sweeping at their base. 

*This tree is a species of pine, quite common in New Mexico, California, and 
some parts of llie mountains. It yields a kind of nut similar to that of the beech, 
v/hicli is esteemed as an article of food. Wild turkeys delight to frequent groves of 
tlus timber, and will thrive in an extraordinary manner upon pinion-nuts. 



TAOS AND ITS VICINITY. 173 



This valley contains more than a thousand acres of choice land, well 
supplied with timber from the heavy pine forests surrounding- it. 

The prevailinor rock is granite, sandstone, limestone, and lias, with 
occasional conglomerates of various kinds. I noticed strong indications 
of copper and other minerals ; and the general appearance of the coun- 
try led me to conclude it to be one possessed of vast stores of hidden 
wealth. 

While here, we were quite successful in replenishing our stock of 
provisions. 

My experiments in turkey-hunting made me a proficient shot by moon- 
light, a feat which adds materially to the sport. This is done by manoeu- 
vring so as to have the turkey in a direct line between the marksman 
and the moon, causing its shadow to fall upon his face, — then, raising his 
rifle to a level from the ground upwards, the instant the sight becomes 
darkened he fires, and, if his piece be true, seldom fails to make a centre 
shot. 

The most feasible mode of hunting turkeys is to watch their roosting 
places at night ; and, after the moon attains the required position, they 
may be killed by dozens in the above manner. They rarely leave their 
roosts on account of the firing ; but remain, half stupified with affright, 
while they are picked off one after another by the practised hunter. 

Sept. Ibtli. Again resuming our journey, we reached Taos on the 1st 
of October. 

Our stay at this place was prolonged for several days, during which 
time we took boarding with a Mexican lady, the widow of an American 
trader. 

The country travelled over en route, from the San Carlos to Taos is 
very rough and mountainous, but variegated by many fertile vS.lleys 
skirting the numerous tributaries of the Arkansas and del Norte. 

The trail crosses several of the latter streams, for the most part bear- 
ing an easterly course ; among which are the Cornua Yirda, Huaquetore, 
Tim pa, Apache, and Pischepa. 

These creeks frequently pass through deep canons of sandstone and 
limestone for a distance of several miles together, — disclosing upon all 
sides a wild and romantic scener)\ The great fault with the valleys is 
a lack of timber ; the hills, however, are generally supplied with pine, 
pinion, and cedar, which, in a measure, atones for the above deficiency. 

On leaving the Pischepa, a reach of little more ihan one Jornada (day's 
travel) leads over the mountain range, separating the w^aters of the Ar- 
kansas and del Norte, at a point bearing a short distance to the left of 
two famous landmarks, called the Spanish Peaks. 

Here the traveller is at once ushered into the valley of Taos ; and, 
continuing on, in a brief interval finds himself surrounded by a clan of 
half-naked Mexicans. 

Taos proper embraces several fertile lateral valleys bordering upon 
the del Norte, and three small affluents from the east and is supposed 
to contain a population of some ten thousand, includiivg Indians, Moors, 
Half- breeds, Mulattoes, and Spaniards. It is divided into several pre- 



174 MEXICAN HOUSES. 

cints, or neighborhoods, within short distances of each other, among 
which Arro\'o Hondo is the principal. 

This section of country is very romantic, and affords many scenes to 
excite the admiration of behoU'ers. It is shut in by lofty n:ountains, 
upon three sid^s, that tower to an alt.it-jde of several thousand feet, now 
presenting their pine-clad summits among the clouds, now with denu- 
ded cre-ts deiying the tempest ; and then peering skyward to hold con- 
verse with the scathing blasts of unending vvinier. 

The mountains are rich in minerals of various kinds. Gold is fo;md in 
considerable quantities in their vicinity, and would doubtless yield a large 
profit to diggers, were they possessed of the requisite enterprise and 
capital. At present these valuable mines are almost entirely neglected, 
— the common people being too ignorant and poor to work them, and 
the rich too indolent and fond of ease. 

The Mexicans possess large ranchos of sheep, horses, mules, and cat- 
tle among the mountains, which are kept there the entire year, by a 
degraded set of beings, following no business but that of herdsmen, 
or rancheros. 

This clnss of people have no loftier aspirations than to throw the 
lasso with dexterity, and break wild nmles and horses. 

They have scarcely an idea of any other place than the little circle in 
which they move, nor dream of a more happy state of existence than their 
own. Half-naked and scantily fed, they are contented with the miserable 
pittance doled out to them by the proud lordlings they serve, while their 
wild songs merrily echo through the hills as they pursue their ceaseless 
vocations till death drops his dark curtain o'er the scene. 

There are no people on the continent of America, whether civilized or 
■uncivilized, with one or two exceptions, more miserable in condition or des- 
picable in morals than the mongrel race inhabiting New Mexico. In say- 
ing this, I deal in generalities ; but were I to particularize the observation 
would hold good in a large majority of cases. 

Next to the squalid appearance of its inhabitants, the first thing that 
arrests the attention of the traveller on entering an Mexican settlement, is 
the uninviting mud walls that form the rude hovels which constitute its 
dwellings. 

These are one story high and built of adobies, with small windows, (like 
the port-holes of a fortification,) generally without glass. The entrance is 
by an opening in the side, very low, and frequently unprotected by a door. 
The roof is a terrace of sod, reposing upon a layer of small logs, affording 
but poor protection from the weather. 

The interior presents an aspect quite as forbidding ; — the floors are sim- 
ply the naked ground, — chairs and tables are articles rarely met with. In 
case of an extra room, it is partitioned off by a thin wall of mud, commu- 
nicating with its neighbor through a small window-shaped aperture, and 
serves the double purpose of a chamber and store-house. 

A few rags, tattered blankets, or old robes, furnish beds for its inmates, 
who, at nightfall, stow themselves away promiscuously upon the ground 
or in narrow bins, and snooze their rounds despite the swarms of noxious 
vermin that infest them, (companions from which they are seldom free, 



ABJECT CONDITION OF MEXICANS . 175 

whether sleeping or waking, — and afford them, perhaps, in greater number 
and variety of species than any other known people.) 

But, before the picture is complete, we must be indulged in a brief sketch 
of their kitchen economy- 
Knives, forks, spoons, and plates, seldom grace the board of a Mexican 
in common circumstances. A single pot of earth, a knife, two or three 
trenchers, and as many water-gourds, constitute almost the entire kitchen 
furniture of the lower classes ; — a kind of gruel {tolie) made by stirring a 
few handfuls of flour into boiling water or milk, is their principal subsis- 
tence. 

Meat finds no place upon their larder, — it being an article too costly for 
ordinary food, as the sheep and cattle of the country are owned by the 
wealthy, and by their exorbitant demands placed beyond the means of the 
commoner. VVood too, bemg two rials (25 cents) per mule-load, is seldom 
used in the large towns fur other than culinary purposes. 

During the winter months, these filthy wretches are s.een, day after day, 
basking at the sunny side of their huts, and bestowing upon each other 
certain friendly oftices connected with the head, wherein the swarming 
populace of the pericranium are had in alternate requisition. 

The entire business of the country is in the hands of the rich, upon 
whom the laboring classes are mainly dependant for support ; and, as a natu- 
ral consequence, the rich know no end to their treasures, nor the poor to 
their poverty. 

The common laborer obtains only from four to six dollars per month, out 
of which he must feed and clothe himself. In case he runs in debt beyond 
his means, he is necessitated by law to serve for the required amount, at 
two dollars per month ; — thus, once in debt, it is almost impossible ever to 
extricate himself. 

But a thing adding still further to his load of misfortunes is the hign 
price set upon the necessaries and comforts of life. This ranges as fol- 
lows : coffee, from ^1^ to 50 cts. per lb. ; sugar, from 18 to 25 cts. per 
do.; calico, from 25 cts. to $1 per yd.; domestic, 25 to 50 cts. ; broadcloths, 
from $\0 to $20, and every thing else in proportion. 

Under such circumstances, it is scarcely marvellous that we find the 
Mexican in his present low state of degradation. 

Having faintly depicted the real condition of a large majority of the de- 
generate inhabitants of New Mexico, it will be expected of me to say some- 
thing of their intelligence and morality ; and here a still more revolting 
task awaits my effort. 

Intelligence is confined almost exclusively to the higher classes, and the 
poor " j9a/f?iTo" comes in for a very diminutive share. 

Education is entirely controlled by tbe priests, wno make use of their 
utmost endeavors to entangle the minds of their pupils in the meshes of 
superstition and bigotry. The result of this may be plainly stated in a few 
words : 

Superstition and bigotry are universal. — all, both old and young, being 
tied down to the disgusting formalities of a religion that manifests itself in 
little else than senseless parade and unmeaning ceremony, — while a large 
majority can neither read nor write. 



176 WHY SO DEGRADED. 

These conservators of intelligence and morals are often as sadly deficient 
in either as those they assume to teach. Gambling, swearing, drinking, 
Sabbath-breaking, and sundry other vices, are the too frequent concomitants 
of tlieir practice ; — under such instructors, who can fail to foresee the 
attendant train of evils ? The abject condition of the people favors the im- 
press of unsound instruction and deteriorating example, reducing public 
morals to a very low ebb. 

Property and life are alike unsafe, and a large proportion of the whole com- 
munity are little other than thieves and robbers. Profanity is their common 
language. In their honesty, integrity, and good faith, as a general thing, 
no reliance should be placed. They are at all times ready to betray their 
trust whenever a sufficient inducement is presented. 

With the present of a few dollars, witnesses may be readily obtained to 
swear to anything; and a like bonus placed in the hands of the Alcaldi will 
generally secure the required judgment, however much at variance with the 
true merits of the cause. 

Thus, justice becomes a mere mockery, and crime stalks forth at noon- 
day, unawed by fear of punishment, and unrebuked by public opinion and 
practice. 

But fear, in most cases, exercises a far more controlling influence over 
them than either gratitude or favor. They may be ranked with the few 
exceptions in the family of man who cannot endure good treatment. To 
manage them successfully, they must needs be held in continual restraint, 
and kept in their place by force, if necessary, — else they will become 
haughty and insolent. 

As servants, they are excellent, when properly trained, but are worse than 
useless if leit to themselves. 

In regard to the Mexican women, it would be unfair to include them in 
the preceding summary. 

The ladies present a striking contrast to their countryman in general 
character, other than morals. They are kind and afl"ectionate in their dis- 
position, mild and aflable in their deportment, and ever ready to administer 
to the necessities of others. But, on the score of virtue and common 
chastity, they are sadly deficient ; while ignorance and superstition are 
equally predominant. 

One of the prime causes in producing this deplorable state of things may 
be attributed to that government policy w^hich confines the circulating me- 
dium of the country within too narrow limits, and thus throws the entire 
business of the country into the hands of the capitalist. 

A policy like this must ever give to the rich the moneyed power, while it 
drains from the pockets of the poor man and places him at the mercy of 
haughty lordlings, who, taking advantage of his necessity, grant him but 
the scanty pittance for his services they in tender compassion see fit to 
bestow. 

The higher classes have thus attained the supreme control, and the com- 
moners must continue to cringe and bow to their will. In this manner the 
latter have, by degrees, lost all ambition and self-respect, — and, in degrada- 
tion, are only equalled by their effeminacy. 



THE PUEBLO INDIANS. 177 



Possessed of little moral restraint, and ^Krested in nothing but the de- 
mands of present want, they abandon th^Felves to vice, and prey upon 
one another and those around them. 

Acting upon the principle^ that " neceg^ty knows no law," they know no 
law for necessity, and help themselves ^jthout compunction to whatever 
chance throws in their way. 

To this we may also look for a reas^ why the entire country is so in- 
fested with banded robbers, that scour it continually in quest of plunder. 
Mankind are naturally vicious ; and, v«p necessity drives them to wrong 
for the procurement of a bare subsist|P?e, they are not slow to become 
adepts in the practice of evil. 

A few miles to the southeast of Taos, is a large village of Pueblos, or 
civilized Indians. These are f^^upatrior to their neighbors in circum- 
stances, morals, civil regulation|^^«acter, and all the other distinguishing 
traits of civilization. ^^V 

This race are of the genuine^Kcican stock, and retain many of their 
ancient customs, though nominally Catholic in their religion. 

Cherishing a deep-rooted animosity towards their conquerors, they only 
await a favorable opportunity to re-assert their liberty. 

They live in houses built of stone and earth, and cultivate the ground for 
a subsistence, — own large herds of cattle, horses, and sheep, — while their 
women spin and weave, with no small pretentions to skill. 

Among their peculiarities is the belief, still entertained by many of them, 
that Montezuma, their former emperor, will yet return from the Spirit Land, 
and, placing himself at the head of his people, enable them to overcome 
the despoilers of his ancient dominions. 

In this strange faith a fire was kept burning without intermission, from 
the death of Montezuma till within ten years past, (a period of nearly three 
centuries,) as a beacon-light to mark the place for his appearing. 

This fire was sustained by an ancient order of priests ministering at a 
temple of unknown age, the ruins of which, it is said, are yet to be seen 
two miles back from St. Miguel, in a very good state of preservation. By 
verbal descriptions received from those who have visited them, I am led to 
infer that they afford many curious and interesting evidences of Mexican 
grandeur and tend to shed much hght upon their former history and reli- 
gion. 

The sculpture is said to represent men and animals of different kinds, 
in many strange varieties of shape and posture ; among them are beasts, 
birds, and reptiles, some of which are of unknown species. 

The workmanship is rather rude and without much regard to uniformity 
or proportion of parts, yet possessing a wild beauty and harmony peculiar 
to itself alone, that at once strikes the beholder with feelings of pleasing 
wonder. 

■ I had cherished the intention of visiting personally these strange relics 
of the past, but was induced to defer it for a more convenient oppoi tunity 
than the present ; and, finally, from my subsequent connection with the 
Texans, I abandoned it altogether. 

The Pueblos number a population of several thousand, and are scattered 
over a considerable extent of territory. They bestow much attention to the 
12 



178 UTAH INDIANS. 



inculcation of good morals in^^^minds of their children ; and, in portraying 
the pernicious effects of evil^Buig, frequently admonish thorn in a quaint 
and expressive manner, — " It ^Ri do thus and so, you will become as bad 
as a Spaniard r — This seems t^.onstitute, in their opinion, the grand cli- 
max of everything vile and degi^Mig. 

They are represented as hum^P and brave, and strictly honest and up- 
right in their dealings. Their \«(ien too are chaste and virtuous, and in 
this respect present a very favorapre contrast to their fairer and more beau- 
tiful sisters of Spanish extractioiii^' 

A small party from a trading e^rolishment on the waters of Green river, 
who had visited Taos for the procurement of a fresh supply of goods, were 
about to return, and I availed myself of the occasion to make one of their 
number. ^ _. 

On the 7th of October we w^ere und^flBfer. Our party consisted of three 
Frenchmen and five Spaniards, undei^^H&rection of a man named Roubi- 
deau, formerly from St. Louis, Mo. ilKie eight pack-mules, laden at the 
rate of two hundred and fifty pounds each, conveyed a quantity of goods ; — 
these headed by a guide followed in Indian file, and the remainder of the 
company mounted on horseback brought up the rear. 

Crossing the del Norte, we soon after struck into a large trail bearing 
a westerly course ; following which, on the 1 3th inst. we crossed the main 
ridge of the Rocky Mountains by a feasible pass at the southern extremity 
of the Sierra de Anahuac range, and found ourselves upon the waters of 
the Pacific. 

Six days subsequent, we reached Roubideau's Fort, at the forks of the 
Uintah, having passed several large streams in our course, as well as the 
two principal branches which unite to form the Colorado. This being the 
point of destination, our journey here came to a temporary close. 

The intermediate country, from Taos to the Uintah, is generally very 
rough and diversified with rich valleys, beautiful plateaux, (tierras templa- 
das.) arid prairies, sterile plains, (llanos,) and denuded mountains. 

VVe usually found a sufficiency of timber upon the streams, as well as 
among the hills, where frequent groves of pinion, cedar, and pine lent an 
agreeable diversity to the scene. Game appeared in great abundance 
nearly the whole route, — especially antelope and deer. 

The prevailing rock consisted of several specimens of sandstone, pudding- 
stone, and granite, with limestone, (fossiliferous, bituminous and argilla- 
ceous,) and basalt. 

This territory is owned by the Utahs and Navijo Indians. 

The former of these tribes includes four or five divisions, and inhabits the 
country laying between the Rio del Norte, the Great Salt Lake, and the 
vast desert to the southward of it. These different fractions are known as 
the Taos, Pa-utah, Digger, and Lake Utahs, numbering in all a popula- 
tion of fifieen thousand or more, and exhibiting many peculiarities of 
character and habits distinct from each other. 

Tlie Taos Utahs are a brave and warlike people, located upon the del 
Norte a short distance to the northwest of Taos. These subsist principally 
by hunting, but raise large numbers of horses. They are generally treach- 



THE DIGGERS. 179 

erous and ill-disposed, making alike troublesome neighbors to the Spaniards 
and dangerous opponents to the whites, whenever an opportunity is pre- 
sented. 

The Pa-utahs and Lake Utahs occupy the territory lying south of the 
Snakes, and upon the waters of the Colorado of the west, and soutli 
of the Great Salt Lake. 

These Indians are less warlike in their nature, and more friendly in their 
disposition, than the Taos Utahs. The persons and property of whites, vis- 
iting them for trade or other purposes, are seldom molested ; and ail having 
dealings with them, so far as my information extends, unite to give them a 
a good character. 

They rarely go to war, and seem content to enjoy the blessings of peace, 
and follow the chase within the limits of their own hunting grounds. 

The Diggers, or rather a small portion of them, are a division of the 
Utah nation, inhabiting a considerable extent of the barren country directly 
southwest of the Great Salt Lake. They are represented as the most de- 
plorably situated, perhaps, of the whole family of man, in all that pertains 
to the means of subsistence and the ordinary comforts of life. 

The largest (and. in fact, almost the only) game found within their terri- 
tory, is a very small species of rabbit, whose skins sewed together consti- 
tute their entire clothing. The soil is too barren for cultivation, sparsely 
timbered, and but illy supplied with water. The consequence of these ac- 
cumulated disadvantages is, that its unfortunate inhabitants are left to 
gather a miserable substitute for food from insects, roots, and the seeds of 
grass and herbs. 

In the summer months they lay in large supplies against the approach of 
winter, — ants furnishing an important item in the strange collection. 

These insects abound in great numbers, and are caught by spreading a 
dampened skin, or fresh-peeled bark, over their hills, which immediately at- 
tracts the inquisitive denizens to its surface ; when tilled, the lure is care- 
fully removed and its adherents shaken into a tight sack, where they are 
contined till dead, — they are then thoroughly sun-dried, and laid away for 
use. 

In this manner they are cured by the bushel. The common way of eat- 
ing them is in an uncooked state. These degraded beings live in holes 
dug in the sand near some watercourse, or in rudely constructed lodges of 
absinthe, where they remain in a semi-dormant, inactive state the entire 
winter, — leaving their lowly retreats only, now and then, at the urgent calls 
of nature, or to warm their burrows by burning some of the few scanty 
combustibles which chance may afford around them. 

In the spring they creep from their holes, not like bear — fattened from a 
long repose — but poor and emaciated, with barely flesh enough to hide their 
bones, and so enervated, from hard fare and frequent abstinence, that they 
can scarcely move. 

So habituated are they to this mode of life from constant inurement, they 
appear to have no conception of a better one. 

Their ideas and aspirations are as simple as their fare. Give them an 
occasional rabbit, with an abundance of ants, seeds, and roots, and they are 
content to abide in their desert home and burrow like the diminutive animal 
they hunt. 



180 SKETCH OF THE N^VIJOS. 



They entertain great dread of the whites, whose power to do them harm 
they have learned on several occasions by bitter experience. These pain- 
ful lessons have generally been inculcated as follows : impellod by hunger, 
these miserable creatures have sometimes attempted to kill the animals of 
trapping parties ; and the trappers, in order to prevent a repetition of such 
occurrences, have been accustomed to shoot down their rude assailants 
without mercy. 

Since the practice of this summary mode of chastisement has ob- 
tained, those able to run will flee with the utmost consternation on the 
approach of a party of whites, — leaving the feeble and infirm in the rear, 
who employ their most piteous supplications and moving entreaties for 
mercy. 

Thes eindians possess a capacity for improvement, whenever circumstan- 
ces favor them. I have seen several, both of men and women, taken from 
among them while young, who, under proper instruction, had made rapid 
progress, and even disclosed a superiority of intellect, compared with like 
examples from other nations, — a fact contributing much to prove that man- 
kind need only to be placed in Hke conditions by birth and education to 
stand upon the same common level. 

Most of them are represented as inoffensive in their habits and charac- 
ter, — never going to war, and rarely molesting any one that passes through 
their country. 

Their arms are clubs, with small bows and arrows made of reeds — 
affording but a poor show of resistance to rifles, and a dozen moun- 
taineers are rendered equal to a full army of such solders. 

The Navijos occupy the country between the del Norte and the 
Sierra Anahuac, simated upon the Rio Chania and Puerco, — from 
thence extending along the Sierra de los Mimbros, inlo the. province 
of Sonora. 

They are a division of the ancient Mexicans ihat have never yet fully 
succumbed to Spanish domination, and still maintain against the con- 
. querors of their country an obstinate and uncompromising warfare. 

Like their ancestors, they possess a civilization of their own. Most 
of them live in houses built of stone, and cultivate the ground. — raising 
vegetables and grain for a subsistence. They also grow large quanti- 
ties of horses, cattle, and sheep — make butter and cheese, and spin and 
weave. 

The blankets manuftctured by these Indians are superior in beauty 
of color, texture, and durability, to the fabrics of their Spanish n igh- 
bors. I have frequantly seen them so closely woven as to be imper- 
vious to water, and even serve for its trans()ortation. 

The internal regulations of this tribe are represented, by those more 
intimately acquainted with them^ as in strict accordance wi'h the wel- 
fare of the whole community. Lewdness is punished by a public expo- 
sure of the culprit ; dishonesty is held in check by suitable re^ulat ons ; 
industry is encouraged by general consent, and hospitality by common 
practice. 

In their warfare with the Spaniards, th-^y frequently exhibit a 
etrano-e mixture of humanity and ludicrous barbarity. 



WHY DISTRUSTFUL OF THE WHITES. 181 

They never kill women or children when in their power, but retain 
them as prisoners. The men, however, are invariably dispatched. 

But in the latter, a comedy not unfrequently precedes the tragedy 
which closes the scene. Taldng their cue from the passionate fondness 
of the Spaniards for dancing, at times, when any one of these unfortunate 
wretches falls into their power, they form a ring around him, and provi- 
ded with switches, compel him to dance until from exhaustion he can 
do so no longer, after which he is unfeelingly butchered. His cruel 
tormenters continue singing, as they force him to dance his own death- 
dirge, and laugh at his faltering steps. 

As warriors they are brave and daring, and make frequent and bold ex- 
cursions into the Spanish settlements, driving off vast herds of cattle, 
horses, and sheep, and spreading terror and dismay on every side. As 
diplomatists, in imitation of their neighbors, they make and break trea- 
ties whenever interest or inclination prompts them. 

The Navijo country is shut in by high mountains, inaccessible from 
without, except by limited passes, through narrow defiles well situated 
for defence on the approach of an invading foe. 

Availing themselves of these natural advantages, they have continued 
to maintain their ground against fearful odds, nor have they ever suffered 
the Spaniards to set foot within their territory as permanent conquerors. 

The valleys of the Chama and its tributaries are said to be unrivalled 
in beauty, and possessed of a delightful climate, as well as an exuberant 
fertility of soil. In these valleys winter is comparatively unknown and ve- 
getation attains an extraordinary size. The mountains abound with game, 
and are rich in all kinds of minerals. Some of the most valuable gold 
mines in Mexico are supposed to be held by the Navijos. I have convers- 
ed with several Americans who have travelled to considerable extent in 
the territory of these Indians, and all unite to speak of it in most flatter- 
ing terms. 

The Catholics maintain numerous missions among them, and have 
succeeded in propagating their peculiar religious notions to some extent, 
notwithstanding their continued hostilities with the Spaniards. 

The Navijos are generally friendly to the Americans visiting them ; 
but were formerly much more so than at present. This partial estrange- 
ment may be attributed to the depredations of a party of Americans, 
under the lead of one Kirker, who were employed by the governments of 
Santa Fe and Chihuahua, to oppose their incursions. This was done with 
great success — the mercenaries despoiling their property, butchering 
their warriors, and bearing off men, women, and children, as captives, to 
be sold into slavery. 



182 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Uintah trade. — Snake Indians; theii- country and character.— Description of Upper 
CaUfornia.— The Eastern Section. — Great Salt Lake and circumjacent country. — 
Desert. — Digger country, and regions south. — Fertility of soil. — Prevailing rock and 
minerals. — Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game. — Valley of the Colorado. — 
Magnificent scenery. — Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. — Vicinity of the 
Gila. — Face of the country, soil &c. — Sweet spots. — Mildness of climate, and its 
healthiness. — The natives. — Sparsity of inhabitants.— No government.— All about 
the Colorado and Gila rivers. — Abundance of fish. — Trade in pearl oyster-shells. — 
Practicable routes from the United States. 

In preceding remarks relative to regions coming under present observa- 
tion, I have confined myself to generalities, for the reason, that less interest 
is felt by the American public, in a minute description of the rivers, moun- 
tains, valleys, etc., so far within the limits of Mexico, than in one connected 
with U. S. Territories ; consequently the reader must rest contented with 
greater conciseness in subsequent pages, until he is again introduced to the 
interesting localities of his own country. 

Roubideau's Fort is situated on the right bank of the Uintah, in lat. 40° 
27' 45" north, long. 109° 56' 42'' west. The trade of this post is con- 
ducted principally with the trapping parties frequenting the Big Bear, 
Green, Grand, and the Colorado rivers, with their numerous tributaries, in 
search of fur-bearing game. 

A small business is also carried on with the Snake and Utah Indians, 
living in the neighborhood of this establishment. The common articles of 
deahng are horses, with beaver, otter, deer, sheep, and elk skins, in barter 
for ammunition, fire-arms, knives, tobacco, beads, awls, &c. 

The Utahs and Snakes afford some of the largest and best finished sheep 
and deer skins I ever beheld, — a single skin sometimes being amply suffi- 
cient for common sized pantaloons. These skins are dressed so neatly 
as frequently to attain a snowy whiteness, and possess the softness of 
velvet. 

They may be purchased for the trifling consideration of eight or ten charges 
of ammunition each, or two or three awls, or any other thing of propor- 
tional value. Skins are very abundant in these parts, as the natives, owing 
to the scarcity of buflalo, subsist entirely upon small game, which is found 
in immense quantities. This trade is quite profitable. The articles pro- 
cured so cheaply, when taken to Santa Fe and the neighboring towns, find 
a ready cash market at prices ranging from one to two dollars each. 

The Snakes, or Shoshones, live in the eastern part of Oregon and in 
Upper California, upon the waters of the Great Snake and Bear rivers, and 
the two streams which unite to form the Colorado. 



VIEW OF UPPER CALIFORNIA. 183 

They are friendly to the whites, and less disposed to appropriate to their 
own use everything they can lay hands on, than some other tribes. They 
seldom go to war, though by no means deficient in bravery, — frequently re- 
sisting with signal success the hostile encroachments of the Sioux and 
Chyennes. Rich in horses and game, they likewise include within their 
territory many interesting and beautiful localities, as well as some extraor- 
dinary natural curiosities. 

One division of this tribe is identified with the Diggers in habits and 
mode of living, — the same causes operating in each case to produce the 
same results. Another division is identified with the Crows, and yet a 
third one with the Utahs, — numbering in all not far from twelve thousand. 

Being less migratory in their habits, and more tractable in their disposition 
than those of their eastern brethren demontes, they are far more susceptible 
of civilization and improvement; though, as yet, nothing has been done for 
their benefit. The missionary might here find an encouraging field for his 
philanthropic exertions. 

With the passage of the mountain chain, noticed in the preceding chap- 
ter, the reader is inducted to the northeastern extremity of California. 
My intention of visiting the interior of this interesting province of the 
Mexican Republic was frustrated through the lack of a convenient oppor- 
tunity for its prosecution ; but, as the public mind, during the past few 
years, has been so much occupied with subjects connected with this coun- 
try, I am unwilling to pass on without presenting a brief description of 
it, obtained from sources upon which full reliance may be placed. 

The following sketch, coupled with my own observations, is carefully 
arranged from information derived from indviduals encountered during my 
stay in this country, some of whom had travelled over most of it, and 
others had resided for years within its confines. 

On referring to the map, a large extent of country will be noticed, 
bounded upon the north by Oregon, east by the Rocky Mountains, south 
by the Lower Province and Gulf of California, together with the Rio Gila 
which separates it from Sonora, and west by the Pacific, situated between 
parallels 32° and 42° north latitude, which is now known as Upper Cali- 
fornia. 

This embraces an extent of nearly 450,000 square miles, and is walled 
in for the most part upon the north and east by lofty mountains, impassable 
except at certain points ; while upon the west and south its vast stretch of 
sea-coast, navigable rivers, and commodious harbors open it to the commer- 
cial intercourse of all nations. 

The entire country is more or less broken by hills and mountains, many 
of them towering to a height of several thousand feet above the level of 
the sea, whose summits, clothed with eternal snow, overlook the valleys of 
perennial verdure that so frequently lie around them. The most noted of 
these is the California, or Cascade range, which, by intersecting the prov- 
ince from north to south, separates it into two grand natural divisions, pro- 
perly denominated Eastern and Western California. 

The above range, though higher than the principal chain of the Rocky 
Mountains, is passable at various points. It is situated inland from the 



184 THE GREAT SALT LAKE, ETC. 

Pacific at distances varying from one hundred and fifty to four hundred 
miles, tracing its way with diminished altitude adown the isthmus that 
forms the Lower Province. 

Owing to its locality, a description of the Eastern Division seems to 
come naturally the first in order. 

This section is v/atered principally by the Colorado, Gila, and Bear riv- 
ers, with their numerous tributaries, and has also several lakes in various 
parts of it, prominent among which is the Great Salt Lake near the north- 
ern boundary. 

This large body of water is nearly one hundred and fifty miles long by 
eighty broad ; and, though the receptacle of several large rivers, has no 
visible outlet, and hence is supposed by many persons to hold subterranean 
connection with the Ocean. Its waters are so strongly impregnated with 
Bait, incrustations of that mineral are frequently found upon its shores. 

Towards the northern extremity an island makes its appearance, from 
whose centre a solitary mountain rises in proud majesty for nearly a thou- 
sand feet above the circumfluent waters ; its craggy sides, naked and des- 
olate, with whitened surface, now inspire the beholder with feelings of 
awe, while its bounding streamlets, skirted with verdant openings and di- 
minutive trees, strike the eye pleasantly, as the sheen of their waters falls 
upon the vision and engenders commingled sensations of delight and ad- 
miration. 

Viewed from the northern shore, this island seems not more than twelve 
miles distant ; a deception caused by the extraordinary purity of the at- 
mosphere. Several attempts to reach it, however, by means of canoes, 
have proved futile, owing to its great distance the dangerous state of navi- 
gation. 

It is thought by many persons that still other islands of larger dimen- 
sions occupy the centre of the lake, and not without some show of reason ; 
there is ample room for them, and, although this vast body of water has 
been circum-traversed per shore, it has never yet been otherwise explored 
by man.* 

The largest of the rivers that find their discharge in this vast saline re- 
servoir is the Big Bear, a stream which rises near the South Pass, and, 
following its meanderings, is about two hundred and fifty or three hundred 
miles in length. It rolls leisurely on with its deep sluggish volume of 
waters, measuring some two hundred yards wide at its mouth, and depos- 
ites its willing tribute into the bosom of this miniature ocean, while four 
or five other fresh water affluents from the east and south make a like de- 
bouche without increasing its size or diminishing its saltness. 

The valleys of these streams possess a very rich soil and are well tim- 
bered. The landscape adjacent to the lake is diversified with marshes, 
plains, highlands, and mountains, aflTording eveiy variety of scenery. The 
soil is generally fertile and prolific in all -kinds of vegetation as well as 
fruits indigenous to the country. 

'■ * Recently, however, Capt. Fremont reports his having succeeded in reaching the 
island nearest to the northern shore, but he was unfortunately prevented a further 
exploration. In his account of this he makes no mention of trees or streams of water 
upon the mountain. I have described it only as it appears when viewed from the 
main land. 



DESCRIPTION OF EASTERN SECTION 185 

Timber also abounds in sufficient quantity for all necessary purposes 
Game too is found in great abundance, particularly deer and elk ; and, ta- 
ken as a whole, the vicinity of the Great Salt Lake holds out strong in- 
ducements to settlers, and is capable of sustaining, as it will no doubt ulti- 
mately possess, a dense population. 

Forty or fifty miles west and south from this the traveller is inducted to 
the vast expanse of sand and gravel, lying between lat. 35° and 40° north, 
which is almost entirely destitute of botli wood and water. 

This reach is Upwards of three hundred miles in length and nearly two 
hundred broad. It is impassable at all seasons of the year on account of 
its extreme dryness and lack of suitable nourishment for animals ; and even 
a trip from Santa Fe to Western California, by the regular trail, is rarely 
undertaken except in the fall and spring months, at which time the ground 
is rendered moist by annual rains and the transient streams venture to 
emerge from thoir sandy hiding places. 

The Digger country, of which I have taken occasion to speak in con- 
nection with its unfortunate inhabitants, lies upon the eastern and southern 
extremities of this desolate waste, and presents an aspect little less for- 
bidding. 

As a general thing the landscape is highly undulating and varied with 
conical hills, some of which are mere heaps of naked sand or sun-baked 
clay of a whitish hue ; others, vast piles of granitic rock, alike destitute of 
vegetation or timber; while yet others are clothed with a scanty herbage 
and occasional clusters of stunted pines and cedars. 

Now and then a diminutive vega intervenes in favorable contrast to the 
surrounding desolation, greeting the beholder with its rank grasses, mingled 
with blushing prairie-flowers. But such beauty-spots are by no means 
frequent. 

The watercourses are mere beds of sand, skirted with sterile bottoms of 
stifi^ clay and gravel, and afford streams only at their heads, while, for 
nearly the entire year, both dew and rain are unknown. Vegetation, con* 
Bequently, is sparse and unpromising, and the whole section of necessity 
remains depopulated of game. 

It is needless to say such a country can never become inliabited by civil- 
ized man. 

Between the Colorado river and the California mountains, south of the 
cheerless desert above described, the prospect is far more flattering. The 
hills are of varied altitude and are usually clothed with grass and timber; 
while comparatively few of them are denuded to any great extent. The 
landscape is highly picturesque and pleasingly diversified with mountains, 
hilfs, plains, and valleys, which aflbrd every variety of climate and soil. 

Tins section is principally watered by the Rio Virgen and lateral 
streams ; and, though little or no rain falls in the summer months, the co- 
piousness of nightly dews in some measure make up for this defect. 

The superfice of the valleys ranges from one to three feet in depth, and 
generally consists of sedimentary deposites and the debris of rocks, borne 
from the neighboring hills by aqueous attrition, which, mingled with a 
dark-colored loam compounded of clay and sand, and various organic and 
vegetable remains, unite to form a soil of admirable fecundity, rarely equal- 
' led by that of any other country. 



186 LANDSCAPE SCENES. 

The hills, however, are unfit for cultivation to any great extent, owing 
to their common sterility as well as the abundance of rock in many parts ; 
yet they might serve a good purpose for grazing lands. 

The prevailing rock is said to be sandstone, limestone, mica slate, trap, 
and basalt ; the minerals, copper, iron, coal, salt, and sulphur. 

Game exists in great abundance, among which are included antelope, 
deer, (black and white-tailed,) elk, bear, and immense quantities of water- 
fowls ; large herds of wild horses and cattle, also, are not unfrequently 
met with. 

Timber is usually a scarce article, which constitutes one grand fault in 
the entire section of Eastern California. This evil, however, is partially re- 
medied by a mild climate, and only a comparatively small amount of wood 
is required for building, fencing, and fuel. 

Fruits of all kinds indigenous to the country, particularly grapes, are 
found in great profusion, and those native only to the torrid and temperate 
zones may also be successfully cultivated. 

Among the grasses, grains, and vegetables growing spontaneously in 
some parts, are red-clover and oats, (which atttain a most luxuriant bulk,) 
flax and onions ; the latter not unfrequently equalling in size the proudest 
products of the far- farmed gardens of Wethersfield. 

We are now naturally led back to the Colorado, and the country lying 
between it and the Sierra de los Mimbros range, on the east. This division 
embraces much choice land in its valleys, but the high grounds and hills 
present much of the dryness and sterility incident to the grand praries. 

The valley of the Colorado averages from five to fifteen miles broad, for 
a distance of nearly two hundred miles above its mouth. 

Further on, the passage of the river through high mountains and tierras 
templadas (table lands) presents an almost continuous gorge of vertical 
and overhanging rocks, that, closing in upon the subfluent stream at a va- 
ried height of from fifteen to six hundred or even a thousand feet, afford 
only an occasional diminutive opening to its waters. 

This vast cation is said to extend for five or six hundred miles, interrupt- 
ing the river with numerous cataracts, cascades and rapids, and opposing 
to its swift current the sharp fragments of severed rocks thrown from the 
dizzy eminences, as breakers, by which to lash the gurgling waters and 
depict the more than tempest-tossed foam and maddened fury of old ocean ! 

In some places the impending rocks approach so near to each other from 
above, a person may almost step across the vast chasm opening to view the 
foaming river, half obscured in perpendicular distance and dimmed by the 
eternal shadows of thrice vertical walls. 

This superbly magnificent scene continues nearly the entire extent, from 
the head of the Colorado valley to the boundary between Oregon and Cali- 
fornia. 

The table lands and mountains on both sides, as a whole, disclose a 
a dreary prospect. Now, the traveller meets with a wide reach of naked 
rock paving the surface to the exclusion of grass, shrubs, or tree, — now, a 
narrow fissure, filled with detritus and earth, sustains a few stunted pines, — 
now, a spread of hard sun-baked clay refuses root to aught earth-growing, — 
now, a small space of saline efllorescences obtrudes upon the vision its 
snowy incrustations, alike repulsive to vegetable life j — then, comes a broad 



INHABITANl'S. 187 

area clothed with thin coarse grass ; an opening vallon next greets the eye 
in the generous growth of its herbage and the fertihty of its soil ; a beauti- 
ful grove of stately pines, cedars, and pinions, rises in the back ground ; a 
still larger, more expansive, and thrice lovely valley, skirts the banks of 
some bounding stream, and delights the fancy with its smiling flowers and 
luxuriant verdure. 

Here, a huge mountain rears itself in majesty— now, piling heaps upon heaps 
of naked granite, limestone, sandstone, and basalt, variegated and parti-col- 
ored, — now, thickly studded with lateral pines, cedars, pinions, and hem- 
locks, — then, again denuded, till at last its sharpened peaks pierce the clouds 
while storms and tempests in their wild orgies haste to do it reverence. 
There, a lesser, coniform elevation of the continuous chain, is mantled in 
living green ; while perhaps by its side, another pains the eye with the 
well defined lineaments of desolation. 

A country of this description occupies nearly the whole interval from 
the two main branches of the Colorado to the dividing ridge of mountains. 

The valleys of the Uintah, and several other affluents within its limits, 
however, are broad, fertile and tolerably well timbered. Grass continues 
green nearly the entire winter, and game of all kinds common to the moun- 
tains, excepting buffalo, is abundant. The valley soils are well adapted to 
cultivation, and might sustain a large population. 

We come now to the southeastern extremity of the province, bordering 
upon the Rio Gila which separates it from^Sonora, and lying between the 
Colorado and the Sierra de los Mimbros range. 

This stretch, though less fertile as a general thing, partakes of much the 
same characteristics as that upon the opposite side of the Colorado, and 
upon Rio Virgen, south of the Digger country, which was so fully described 
upon a former page. The soil, however, is not generally so sandy, and the 
landscape is far more rough and broken. The bottoms of the Colorado and 
Gila, with their tributaries, are broad, rich, and well timbered. Everything 
in the shape of vegetation attains a lusty size, amply evincing the exuber- 
ent fecundity of the soil producing it. 

There are many sweet spots in the vicinity of both these streams, well 
deserving the name of earthly Edens. Man here might fare sumptuously, 
with one continued feast spread before him by the spontaneous products of 
the earth, and revel in perennial springer luxurate amid unfading summer. 

Yet, notwithstanding the other attractions held out, game is much less 
plentiful in this than in other parts, — probably owing to the warmth of the 
climate. 

Winter is unknown, and the only thing that marks its presence from that 
of other seasons, is a continuation of rainy and damp weather for some two 
or three months. All the wild fruits and grains indigenous to the country 
are found here in profuse abundance. 

The entire Eastern Division of Upper Cahfornia possesses a uniformly 
salubrious and healthful atmosphere. Sickness, so far as my knowledge 
extends, is rarely known. 

The natives, for the most part, may be considered friendly, or at least, 
not dangerous. Some of them, in the neighborhood of the Gila and the 
Gulf of California are partially advanced in civihzation, and cultivate the 
ground; raising corn, melons, pumpkins, beans, potatoes, &.c. 



188 ROUTES FROM THE UNITED STATES. 

These live in fixed habitations, constructed of wood, and coated with 
earth, in a conical form, much like Pawnee huts. 

The condition and character of these tribes present most flattering in- 
ducements for missionary enterprise ; and, should efforts for their ameliora- 
tion be put forth by zealous and devoted men, (and meet with no counter- 
acting opposition from the united influence of the Mexican Government and 
the narrow minded bigotry of an intolerent clergy and priest-ridden people,) 
a glorious fruition of their most sanguine hopes might soon be expected. 

There are no settlements of either whites or Mexicans, to my knowledge, 
throughout the whoie extent of this territory. Indians may, therefore, be 
considered its only inhabitants, other than the strolling parties of trappers 
and traders that now and then travel it, or temporarily establish themselves 
within its limits. Of course then the Eastern Division of Upper Califor- 
nia must be considered without a people or a government. 

The Rio Colorado rises in the U. S. territory about lat. 42° 30' north, 
interlocking with the head waters of the Columbia, Missouri, Platte, and 
Arkansas, and empties into the Gulf of California near lat. 32° north. 
Following its windings it is some twelve or fifteen hundred miles in length. 
This stream with its numerous tributaries is the only river worth naming in 
Eastern Calilbrnia, and, to a great extent, serves to water that country. 
Owing to the rapidity of its current and its frequent falls and cascades, the 
navigation is entirely destroyed, till within about one hundred miles of its 
mouth, at the head of tide water ; from this on no further interruption oc- 
curs, and the depth is sufficient for vessels bearing several hundred tons 
burthen. 

The Gila is properly a river of Sonora, though commonly regarded as the 
northern boundary of that province. It rises in the Sierra de los Mimbros, 
near lat. SS*-" 25' north, long. 106"^ 15' west from Greenwich, and pursues 
a west-southwe.-terly course till it discharges itself into the Bay of the 
Colorodo, at lat. 32° 15' north, long. 114° 27 west. 

Its whole length is about eight hundred miles, for most of which distance 
navigation is imprac'ticable, with the exception of some forty miles or more 
at its mouth. 

These two rivers are said to aflbrd immense quantities of fish, especially 
near their confluence with the Gulf of California. 

The Gulf also contains a large variety and exhaustless supplies of the 
finny tribe, together with several species of the crustaceous and testaceous 
order. Among the last named are lobsters, crabs, clams, and oysters. 

Oysters are very numerous and of an excellent quality, including in 
variety the genuine mother pearl. A small trade in the shells of the pearl 
oyster is carried on wMth the Arapahos, Chyennes, and Sioux, by the 
Spaniards, which yields a very large profit, — a single shell frequently 
bringing from six to eight robes. These Indians make use of them for 
ear-ornaments, and exhibit no little taste in their shape and finish. 

The eastern section of Upper Calilbrnia is accessible by land as well as 
sea from several feasible passes through the mountain ranges forming its 
eastern boundary. 

The best land routes for waggons from the United States is through the 
South Pass, — thence, to the Great Salt Lake by Bear river valley, — thence 



WESTERN CALIFORNIA. 189 

the emigrant can direct his course to any part of the country, as interest or 
inclination may suggest. 

Another pass is afforded by way of the Santa Fe trail near lat. 37° 
north ; this, however, is a very difficult one for waggons, and should only 
be travelled on horseback. 

There are said to be one or two other passes further south, in reference 
to which I cannot speak with certainty, but am inclined to accredit their 
reported existence. 



CHAPTER XXIIl. 



Minerals. — Western California. — Tlie Sacramento and contiguous regions. — Principal 
rivers. — Fish. — Commercial advantages — Bay of San Francisco. — Other Bays and 
Harbors. — Description of the country ; territory northwest of the Sacramento ; 
Tlamath mountains ; CaUfornia range and its vicinity ; Southern parts ; timber ;^ 
river-bottoms ; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and Tulare ; their extent, fertiUty, 
timber and fruit ; wild grain and clover, spontaneous ; wonderful fecundity of soil, 
and its products ; the productions, climate, rains and dews ; geological and mineralogi- 
cal character ; face of the country ; its water ; its healthiness ; game ; superabun- 
dance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c. ; beasts of prey ; the inhabi- 
tants, who ; Indians, their character and condition ; Capital of the Province, with 
other towns ; advantages of San Francisco ; inland settlements ; foreigners and 
Mexicans ; Government ; its full military strength. — Remarks. 

In the preceding chapter the reader must have acquired some tangible 
idea of the true condition of Eastern California, with all its varied beauties 
and deformities ; its Edens and wastes of desolation ; its enchantments, and 
scenes of awe and terrific grandeur. 

To have treated the subject more in extenso, would have trespassed upon 
prescribed brevity ; yet, doubtless, many will regret my having said so little 
relative to the mineralogical character and resources of that country. The 
truth is, comparatively little is known upon this important matter. Were 
I to give ear to common report, I would say there are both gold and silver, 
with copper, lead, and iron. But such stories are not always to be credited 
unless they come in a credible shape. 

However, it is very probable these metals do exist in various parts ; and 
certain it is that immense beds of coal and rock-salt are afforded, with 
large quantities of gypsum, the truth of which is placed beyond doubt by an 
accumulation of testimony. With these few remarks I turn from the subject, 
and bring before the reader another and more interesting topic. 

Following the only practicable waggon route from the U, S. to Western 
California, via South Pass, — thence, after bearing northwest some forty 
miles, by a long sweep southward around the Sierra Nevada to the Rio 
Sacrimento, — the emigrant is taken through a succession of mountains, 
hills, plains, and valleys, furrowed by frequent affluents from the north ;— 
now, sterile wastes of intervening sand j now, pleasant spreads of arable 



190 ABUNDANCE OF FISIL 

prairies ; now, rugged superfices of naked rock ; then, beautiful valleys 
arrayed iii all the loveliness of perennial verdure, and profuse in vegetation 
of extraordinary growth, intermixed with wild-flowers of unrivalled hues 
and lavish fragrance, till lie finally reaches his destination. 

The Sacramento and its tributaries water the greater part of Western 
California. 

This river is formed by the confluence of two large streams which rise 
in the Cascade Mountains, properly termed the North and South Forks ; 
the former heading near lat. 41^ 43' north, long. 114"^ 51' w^est. (The South 
Fork is the stream defining the waggon route from the U. States, via South 
Pass.) 

The Sacramento, measured by its windings, is about eight hundred and 
fifty miles in length. It receives many important auxiliaries above the 
junction of its tv/o forks, which greatly increase the volume and depth of 
its waters. From its mouth it is said to aiford a good stage of navigation 
for crafts of tolerable burthen, as high up as three hundred miles, — tide 
water setting back for one hundred and fifty miles. 

Three other rivers,- flowing from the southeast, have their discharge in 
the Bay of San Francisco. These streams are severally called the Rio del 
Plumas, American Fork, and Tulare. 

The former derives its name from the great abundance of water-fowls 
which congregate upon it at all seasons of the year, so numerous and 
tame that the natives not unfrequently kill large quantities of them with 
clubs or stones as they fly through the air. 

The del Plumas is said to be navigable, for boats of a light draught, till 
within a hundred miles of its head, — its whole length is about two hundred 
and fifty miles. The American Fork, or the Rio de los Americanos, is a 
clear and beautiful stream about one hundred and fifty miles long, emptying 
into the Sacramento Bay below the del Plumas, and between it and the 
Tulare. Owing to frequent rapids, however, its navigation is destroyed. 

The Tulare is said to be four hundred miles long, and navigable for one 
half that distance. It is represented as watering one of the most interest- 
ing sections of Western California, and hence is considered next in impor- 
tance to tlie Sacramento. This stream affords some of the finest localities 
for settlements found in the whole country. 

Below the Bay of San Francisco several other small streams find their 
way into the Pacific, but none of them are navigable to any great extent. 
The principal of these empty as follows : into the Bay of Monterey, into 
the Ocean near Point del Esteros, Point Arguello, St. Barbara Channel, 
San Pedro Bay, and opposite the island of St. Clement. 

Above tlie Bay of San Francisco, Russian river is discharged into Bodega 
Bay ; further on. Smith's river empties into Trinidad Bay ; and two other 
small streams find their discharge near Point St. George, a few miles below 
the boundary line between Oregon and California. 

Smith's river is the largest stream either above or below the Bay 
of San Francisco, and is about two hundred miles in length, though un- 
navigable. 

All these various rivers and their affluents are stored with innumerable 
supplies of delicious fish, the principal of which are salmon and salmon- 
trout. The Ocean too aflfords an exhaustless quantity of the piscatorial 



SOIL, CLIMATE, ETC. 191 

family, including whales, cod, and haddock, with oysters, clams, lobsters, 
&c. 

So great is the abundance of fish at certain seasons, that, with a rude 
seine, the natives frequently take fifteen or twenty barrels full at a single 
draught ; fish constituting their principal subsistence. 

There are few, if any, countries in the world possessed of superior com- 
mercial advantages to the western section of Upper California. 

True, its inland navigation is Imiited ; yet, with an extent of nearly eight 
hundred miles of sea-coast, accessible at almost any point, it includes some 
of the finest bays and harbors ever known. Of these, for commodiousness 
and safety at all times, the Bay of San Francisco stands pre-eminently con- 
spicuous. 

This bay is an arm of the sea extending some forty miles or more inland, 
shut in, for the most part, upon each side by precipitous banks of basalt 
and trap, that skirt a very broken and hilly country contiguous to it. The 
entrance from the ocean is by an opening, a mile or more in width, through 
rock-formed walls, between one and two hundred feet high. A recent 
traveller,* in describing this bay, says : — 

" From the points forming the entrance, the sea gradually expands to 
some eight or ten miles in extent, from north to south, and twelve from 
east to west. At the extreme eastern part of the vast basin tlius formed, 
its shores again close in abruptly, contracting so as to leave a pass of about 
two miles in width, which forms the entrance to a second bay of still larger 
dimensions. From this gorge their high rocky banks again diverge for 
some ten miles, when they still again contract to the narrow space of one 
mile, and form the passage to a third. The latter is more spacious than 
either before mentioned, and, formed in like manner, extends twelve miles 
from east to west and fifteen from north to south, alfbrding the safest 
and most commodious anchorage." 

There is ample water at all times for the entrance of ships of the largest 
class, and it is asserted confidently, that these three united bays would afford 
perfect safety, secure anchorage, and ample room for the fleets and navies 
of all nations. 

Several other bays and harbors are situated along the coast, all of which, 
to a greater or less extent, are favorably spoken of for general safety and 
good anchorage. 

Among the above are mentioned the Bay of Monterey, San Pedro, St. 
Diego, Bodega, and Trinidad. Bodega, however, is represented as being, 
at times, very uns.ife and even dangerous. 

With such extraordinary facilities for commerce, it needs no prophetio 
eye to forsee the position Western CaUfornia is destined to assume, before 
many years have passed, and, from her position and natural resources, will 
be enabled successfully to maintain among the foremost nations of the 
earth — provided, always, that some other people more enterprising and en- 
lightened than the present inert, ignorant, stupid, and mongrel race infest- 
ing it with their presence, take possession of the country, develop its ener- 
gies and bring to light the full beauty of its natural lovliness. 

We are now led to speak of the peculiarities of soil, landscape, scenery, 

* Hastings. 



192 COUNTRY BELOW THE SACRAMENTO. 

climate, productions, and mineral resources of this interesting country , 
and in so doing, I would first draw a succinct view of the territory lying 
between the Rio Sacramento and Oregon. 

Here we find the most forbidding aspect, with one exception, of any in 
Western California. The soil is generally very dry and barren, and the 
face of the country broken and hilly. The streams of water (as in the 
Eastern Division) frequently sink and become lost in the sand, or force 
themselves into the Ocean and parent streams by percolation or subterrane- 
an passages. 

In many places is presented a surface of white sun-baked clay, entirely 
destitute of vegetation ; and in others, wide spreads of sand, alike denuded ; 
and yet again iron-bound superfices of igneous rock. 

Now and then groves of pines or firs spread their broad branches as it 
were to cover the nakedness of nature ; while here and there a valley of 
greater or less extent smiles amid the surrounding desolation. 

All the various streams are skirted with bottoms of arable soil, ofttimes 
not only large but very fertile, though perhaps unadapted to cultivation, on 
account of their dryness, without a resort to irrigation. 

Smith's river pursues its way, for forty or fifty miles, through a wide 
bottom of rich soil, most admirably suited for agricultural purposes were it 
not for its innate aridity ; — however, during the summer season, it is, to a 
limited extent, watered from nightly dews, which enable it to sustain a 
luxuriant vegetation. 

Not one fourth part of the northwestern portion of this section is fit for 
tillage. That part contiguous to the sea-coast is sandy and far less broken 
th;m those sections less interior. 

The Tlameth Mountains, pursuing a west-southwest course from Oregon, 
strike the coast near lat. 41^^ north. This range has several lofty peaks 
covered with perpetual snow, and shoots its collateral eminences far into the 
adjacent prairies. 

There is one feasible pass through this chain a few miles inland from the 
coast, that serves well for the purpose of intercommunication with Oregon. 

The less elevated parts of these mountains are frequently covered with 
groves of small timber and openings of grass suitable for pasturage, while 
intermingled with them are occasional valleys snxd prairillons of diminutive 
space, favorable to the growth of grain and vegetables. The same may be 
said in reference to the California chain for its whole extent, especially in 
the vicinity of the prairie. 

Following the course of this latter ridge from north to south, we find 
upon both sides a reach of very broken and highly tumulous landscape, 
some twenty or thirty miles broad. 

Near the head-waters of the Sacramento, these lands are well watered 
mnd possess a general character for fertility, producing a variety of grass, 
with shrubs and a few scattering trees. Below, however, they are more 
Bterile, owing to the deficiency of water ; but yet they afford numerous invit- 
ing spots. 

A considerable extent of country, south of the South Fork of the river 
above named, is arid and sterile, and has but few streams of water. It sus- 
tains, however, among its hills and in its valleys, a sparse vegetation that 



EXTRAORDINARY PRODUCTIVENESS. 193 

might be turned to a favorable account for grazing purposes. Only about 
one fourth of this country is adapted to other uses than stock-raising. 

Further south from the head-waters of the Tulare and del Plumas, rang- 
ing between the coast and the high rolling lands skirting the base of the 
California Mountains to the boundary of the Lower Province, a section of 
gently undulating prairie, now and then varied with high hills and some- 
times mountains, affords a rich soil, generally consisting of dark, sandy 
loam, between the hills and in the valleys ; the highlands present a super- 
fice of clay and gravel, fertilized by decomposed vegetable matter, well 
adapted to grazing, and about one half of it susceptible of cultivation. 

Timber is rather scarce, except at intervals along the watercourses and 
occasional groves among the hills ; but along the coast dense forests are 
frequently found claiming trees of an enormous size. 

But, one grand defect exists in its general aridity, which renders neces- 
sary a resort to frequent irrigation in the raising of other than grain pro- 
ducts. In some parts, the abundance of small streams would cause this 
task to become comparatively an easy one ; and the profuseness of dews 
in sections contiguous to the rivers in some measure answers as a substi- 
tute for rain. 

The bottoms are broad and extensive, yielding not only the most extraor- 
dinary crops of clover and other grasses, but incalculable quantities of wild 
oats and flax of spontaneous growth, with all the wild fruits natural to the 
climate. 

In returning to the Sacramento and the rivers which find their dischar- 
ges in the Bay of San Francisco, we have before us the most interesting 
and lovely part of Upper California. 

The largest valley in the whole country is that skirting the Sacramento 
and lateral streams. This beautiful expanse leads inland from the Bay of 
San Francisco for nearly four hundred miles, almost to the base of the Cal- 
ifornia Mountains, and averages between sixty and sixty-five miles in 
width. 

The valleys of the del Plumas and American Fork are also very large, 
and that of the Tulare gives an area of two hundred and fifty miles long 
by thirty-five broad. 

These valleys are comparatively well timbered with several varieties of 
wood, consisting principally of white-oak, live-oak, ash, cottonwood, cherry, 
and willow, while the adjacent hills afford occasional forests of pine, cedar, 
fir, pinion, and spruce. 

The soil as well as the climate is well adapted to the cultivation of all 
kinds of grain and vegetables produced in the United States, and many of 
the varied fruits of the torrid and temperate zones can be successfully rear- 
ed in one and the same latitude. 

Among the grains, grasses, and fruits indigenous to the country are 
wheat, rye, oats, flax, and clover, (white and red,) with a great variety of 
grapes, all of which are said to grow spontaneously. 

Wild oats frequently cover immense spreads of bottom and prairie land, 
sometimes to an extent of several thousand acres, which resemble in ap- 
pearance the species common to the United States. They usually grow to 
a height of between two and three feet, tliough they often reach a height 
of seven feet. 

13 



194 GEOLOGY AND MINERALS. 

The wild clover of these valleys is much like the common red, and, in 
some places, is afforded in great abundance. It attains a usual height of 
two feet and a half, though it often measures twice that height — standing 
as thick as it can well grow. 

Forty bushels per acre is said to be the average wheat crop, but sixty 
and even one hundred bushels have been grown upon a hke spot of ground. 
This grain generally reaches its maturity in three or four months from 
the time of sowing. 

Corn yields well, and affords an average of from fifty to sixty bushels 
per acre, without farther attention from the time of planting till picking. 
Potatoes, onions, beets, carrots, &:.c., may be produced in any quantity with 
very little trouble. Tobacco has also been raised by some of the inhabit- 
ants with most flattering success. 

Perhaps, no country in the world is possessed of a richer or more fruit- 
ful soil, or one capable of yielding a greater variety of productions, than 
the valleys of the Sacramento and its tributaries. 

The articles previously noticed are more or less common to the bottoms 
and valleys of other sections. Grapes abound in the vicinity of most of 
the creeks, which afford generous wines and delicious raisins in immense 
quantities. 

The climate is so mild that fires are needed at no season of the year for 
other than cooking purposes. By aid of irrigation, many kinds of vegeta- 
bles are fresh-grown at any time, while two crops of some species of 
grain may be produced annually. 

Flowers are not unfrequently in full bloom in mid winter, and all nature 
bears a like smiling aspect. In this, however, we of course refer only to 
the low-lands and valleys. 

The traveller at any season of the year may visit at his option the frosts 
and snows of eternal winter, or feast his eyes upon the verdure and beauty 
of perennial spring, or glut his taste amid the luxuriant abundance and rich 
maturity of unending summer, or indulge his changeful fancy in the en- 
joyment of a magnificent variety of scenery as well as of climate, soil, 
and productions. 

The only rains incident to this country fall during the months of De- 
cember, January, February, and March, which constitute the winter ; at 
other times rain is very rarely known to fall. Perhaps, for one third of the 
four months before named, the clouds pour down their torrents without in- 
termission ; the remaining two thirds afford clear and delightful weather. 

During the wet season the ground in many parts becomes so thoroughly 
saturated with moisture, particularly in the valley of the Sacramento, 
that, by the aid of copious dews to which the country is subject, crops may 
be raised without the trouble of irrigation ; though its general aridity con- 
stitutes the greatest objection to California. 

Of its geological and mineralogical character little is yet known. The 
prevailing rock is said to be sandstone, mica slate, granite, trap, basalt, 
puddingstone, and limestone, with occasional beds of gypsum. Among 
its minerals as commonly reported, are found gold, silver, iron, coal, and a 
variety of salts. The mineral resources of the country have not been as 
yet fully investigated to any great extent, but the mountains, in different 
parts, are supposed to be rich in hidden stores. 



GREAT ABUNDANCE OF STOCK. 195 



To speak of Western California as a whole, it may be pronounced hilly, 
if not mountainous, and about two thirds of it is probably fit for agricultu- 
ral purposes. 

The creeks are frequently immured by precipitous walls of several hund- 
red feet in altitude, that, expanding here and there, give place to beautiful 
valleys of variable width, while most of the low-lands upon their banks 
are skirted by continuous and abrupt acclivities leading to the high prai- 
ries, table lands, and mountains contiguous to them. Their currents are 
generally clear and rapid, flowing over beds of sand, pebbles, and rock, and 
afford wholesome and delicious water. 

The air is almost invariably pure and free from the noxious exhalations 
common to many countries, which contributes greatly to render the climate 
uniformly healthy — a character which it has hitherto sustained by common 
report. 

Some travellers, however, speak of large Indian villages in different 
parts, deserted and in ruins, whose sites are bestrewn with human bones 
and sculls, as if the entire population had been swept oif by the frightful 
ravages of deadly pestilence, and so suddenly that not a soul was left to 
bury their dead ; and hence they suppose the country occasionally subject 
to devastating sicknesses. The above, however, may with equal propriety 
be charged to the account of war. 

Game is quite plentiful in the Western Division of Upper California, 
and in many places extremely abundant, especially in the mountains 
near the head-waters of the Tulare and Sacramento rivers. 

Among the dilFerent varieties are enumerated deer, (black-tailed and 
white-tailed,) elk, antelope, goats, bear, (black, red, and grizzly,) beaver, 
geese, brants, ducks, and grouse, with wild horses and cattle ;— bufialo 
are unknown to the Province. 

Never was a country better adapted to stock-raising than is this, and 
perhaps none, according to the number of its inhabitants, so abundantly 
supplied with horses, cattle, and sheep. The former of these abound in 
countless numbers, whenever a white man or a Spanio-Mexican makes it 
his residence. A single individual frequently owns from eight to ten thou- 
sand head of horses and mules ; and, not rarely, even as high as fifteen or 
twenty thousand. 

These animals are very hardy and trim-built, and only a trifle smaller 
than those common to the United States. I have seen many of them equal- 
ly as large as the American breed, and, as a general thing, they are more 
durable under fatigue and hardship. 

The choicest animals from a band of several thousand may be purchas- 
ed for ten dollars, and the ordinary price for prime selections ranges from 
three to five dollars, while mares may be procured for two dollars per head. 

Cattle are equally plenty, at prices varying from two to four dollars per 
head. 

Stock is raised without trouble, as the abundance of grass aflxirds pas- 
turage the entire season, nor is necessary a resort to either hay or house. 
In fact, both cattle and horses not only thrive best but are fattest in the 
winter season, owing to the absence of flies and insects, as well as the 
partial freshness of vegetation. 

The common method of stock-raising is by turning them loose into the 



196 PRINCIPAL TOWNS. 

bottoms and prairies, accompanied by a herdsman, or two, or more, a la 
Mexican, (according to the size of the band,) where they are left to in- 
crease, and no further care is bestowed upon them. 

Sheep too are raised in vast numbers after the above manner. They in- 
crease with astonishing; rapidity, and usually produce their young twice a 
year. Their wool, how^ever, is much coarser than that grown in the 
United States. This latter fact is accounted for by their inferiority of 
breed, though their flesh is sweeter and better than the American mut- 
ton. 

Wolves are said to be numerous and troublesome, and not unfrequently 
prove a source of great annoyance to the inhabitants by destroying their 
sheep, calves, colts, and even full-grown cattle and horses. 

Among them are included the black, gray, and prairie wolf. The black 
wolf is the largest and most ferocious, equalling the size of our common 
cur-dog. 

Foxes are also said to be numerous, but are of a diminutive size. The 
above are the only beasts of prey worth naming. 

The foregoing summary leads us to notice the present state of the 
country, its inhabitants, government, and mili'",ary strength. 

Upper California at the present time is in the united possession of 
the Indians, Mexicans, English, and French ; not as rulers, but as 
land-holders and inhabitants. 

The Indians are supposed to number some thirty or forty thousand 
souls, and are scattered over the entire Province. Excepting the Dig- 
gers, the Utahs, the Snakes, and those residing in the vicinity of the 
Sierra Nevada and the Tlameth Mountains, they are quite similar in 
character and condition to those noticed as being residents of the Gila 
and adjacent regions. 

They are mild and timorous, and incapable of opposing any very se- 
rious impediment to the progress of settlements. Fifteen Americans, 
armed with good rifles, are equal to one or two hundred of such ene- 
mies in ordinary cases. 

The Catholics have twenty or more missions among them, the efl^ect 
of which has been not so much to advance their civilization, or convert 
them to the truths of Christianity, as to render them the slaves of a cor- 
rupt and vicious priesthood. 

Monterey is the present capital of Upper California. It is beautifully 
situated upon a gently undulating plain, in full view of the Ocean and 
harbor, and contains about one thousand inhabitants. Its houses are 
constructed of adobies, after the Mexican fashion. 

South of this town are several other places of considerable impor- 
tance along the coast, viz : San Diego, San Gabriel, snd San Barbara ; 
all of which are well located for commercial purposes. 

A town called the Pueblo is situated upon a small river that debouches 
between San Diego and San Gabriel. This town is a few miles removed 
from the coast, and is said to be the largest one in California. It contains 
a population of about flfteen hundred, and is the grand centripot of over- 
land intercourse with New Mexico. 

Above Monterey are two other towns, bearing the names of Sonoma and 
San Francisco. 



WHAT THE RESULT WILL BE. 197 

The latter is situated upon the bay of that name, and, from its superior 
commercial advantages, is destined to become one of the largest and most 
important business cities upon the western coast of the American conti- 
nent. Possessed of one of the finest and most commodious harbors in the 
world, (emphatically the harbor of harbors,) and located at the mouth of 
a large navigable river, that waters a vast expanse of country unsurpass- 
ed in fertility, what should hinder it from assuming that commanding po- 
sition designed for it by nature 1 

It is built after the English manner, and its inhabitants, numbering 
about two hundred, are principally American, English, and French, with 
a few Mexicans and Indians. 

There are also several settlements upon the Sacramento and other 
rivers, consisting mostly of foreigners. 

The Catholic missions are generally the nucleus of small Mexican and 
Indian villages, and derive their support from agricultural pursuits. 

Aside from these, the country is entirely devoid of population other than 
wild beasts and uncultivated savages. The white inhabitants are com- 
puted at one thousand or more, and are generally Americans ; while be- 
tween ten and twelve thousand Mexicans curse the country with their 
presence, and disgrace the Edens they possess. 

The government of California has been, like all Mexican governments, 
very lax and inefficient. It was but little other than a despotism, or, ra- 
ther, a complicated machine for the oppression of the people and the perver- 
sion of justice! and infinitely worse than none. 

Whether the late revolution has produced a better order of things re- 
mains to be determined ; but, one fact is worthy of notice — no permanent 
reformation can be effected so long as Mexicans exercise any controlling 
influence in the administration of the laws ; and, to speak plainly, not un- 
til the government is placed in other and better hands. 

The Mexicans occupy eight military stations at different points along 
the coast, garrisoned by about three hundred and fifty soldiers, and mount- 
ing some fifty pieces of artillery. The largest of these fortifications is at 
Monterey. This post is garrisoned by two hundred soldiers, and twelve 
pieces of canon — while the fort at New Helvetia, held by the Americans^ 
mounts an equal number. 

In case of an emergency, it is supposed the whole Mexican force might 
possibly amount to between ten and eleven hundred men — in efficiency 
nearly equal to a party of one hundred and fifty well-armed Americans. 

It will be seen at a mere glance, that Mexico cannot maintain her hold 
upon California for many years to come. Emigrants from the United States 
and other countries, attracted by its fertile soil and healthful climate, will 
continue to pour into it with increased ratio, until, by outnumbering the 
degraded race that at present bears sway, this delightful portion of the globe 
shall of necessity become either the dependency of some foreign power or 
assume a separate and distinct existence as an independent nation. 



198 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Visitors at Uintah. — Adventures of a trapping party. — The Munchies, or white Indi- 
ans ; some account of thera. — Amusements at rendezvoiis. — Mysterious city, and 
attempts at its exploration, — speculation relative to its inhabitants. — Leave for Fort 
Hall. — Camp at Bear river. — Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. — 
Green valleys, &c. — Country en route. — Brown's-hole. — Geological observations. — 
Soda, Beer, and Steamboat springs ; their peculiarities. — 3Iinerals. — Valley of Bear 
river ; its fertility, timber, and abundance of wild fruit. — Buffalo berries — Superior 
advantages of this section. — Mineral tar. 

Our stay at the Uintah was prolonged for some ten days. The gentle- 
man in charge at this post spared no pains to render my visit agreeable, 
and, in answer to enquiries, cheerfully imparted all the information in his 
possession relative to the localities, geography, and condition of die sur- 
rounding country. 

A trapping party from the Gila came in soon after our arrival, bringing 
with them a rich quantity of beaver, which they had caught during the pre- 
ceding winter, spring, and summer upon the affluents of that river and the 
adjacent mountain streams. They had made a successful hunt, and gave 
a glowing description of the country visited, and the general friendUness of 
its inhabitants. 

The natives, in some parts of their range, had never before seen a white 
man, arrd, after the first surprise had subsided, treated them with great de- 
ference and respect. These simple and hospitable people supplied thera 
with corn, beans, and melons, and seemed at all times well disposed. 

The only difficulty encountered with them took place upon one of the 
northern tributaries of the Gila. Two or three butcher-knives and other 
little articles being missing from camp, the trappers at once accused the 
Indians of stealing, and demanded their prompt restoration. The latter 
they were either unable or unwilling to do, and thereupon a volley of riflery 
was discharged among the promiscuous throng, with fatal effect. Several 
were killed and others wounded, and the whole troop of timorous savages 
immediately took to their heels, nor dared to return again. 

In narrating the events of their long excursion, an account was given of 
visiting the Munchies, a tribe of white Indians. 

What added much to the interest I felt in this part of their story, w^as the 
recollection of an article which went the nevvspaper rounds several years 
since, stating the existence of such a tribe. I had disbelieved it at the time ; 
but this, and subsequent corroborative evidence, has efTectually removed from 
ray mind all doubts upon the subject. 

Our trappers had remained with the Munchies for four weeks, and spoke 
of them in high terms. 

In reference to theii color they were represented as being of a much 
tkirer complexion than Europeans generally, a thing easily explained if we 
EDmember this one fact, i. e., my informants must have spoken compara- 



WHITE INDIANS. 199 



lively, taking themselves as the true representatives of that race, when in 
reality their own color, by constant exposure to the weather, had acquired 
a much darker hue than ordinary ; then drawing their conclusions from a 
false standard, they were led to pronounce the fair natives much fairer, as 
a body, than the whites. 

By information derived from various sources, I am enabled to present the 
following statement relative to this interesting people : 

The Munchies are a nation of white aborigines, actually existing in a 
valley among the Sierra de los Mimbros chain, upon one of the affluents of 
the Gila, in the extreme northwestern part of the Province of Sonora. 

They number about eight hundred in all. Their country is surrounded 
by lofty mountains at nearly every point, and is well watered and very fer- 
tile, though of limited extent. Their dwellings are spacious apartments 
nicely excavated in the hill-sides, and are frequently cut in the solid 
rock. 

They subsist by agriculture, and raise cattle, horses, and sheep. Their 
features correspond with those of Europeans, though with a complexion, 
perhaps, somewhat fairer, and a form equally if not more graceful. 

Among them are many of the arts and comforts of civilized life. They 
spin aid weave, and manufacture butter and cheese, with many of the lux- 
uries known to more enlightened nations. 

Their political economy, thougli much after the patriarchal order, is purely 
republican in its character. The old men exercise the supreme control in 
the enactment and execution of laws. These laws are usually of the most 
eim.ple form, and tend to promote the general welfare of the community. 
They are made by a concurrent majority of the seniors in council, — each 
male individual, over a specified age, being allowed a voice and a vote. 

Questions of right and wrong are heard and adjudged by a committee 
selected from the council of seniors, who are likewise empowered to redress 
the injured and pass sentence upon the criminal. 

In morals they are represented as honest and virtuous. In religion they 
difler but little from other Indians. 

They are strictly men of peace, and never go to war, nor even, as a com- 
mon thing, oppose resistance to the hostile incursions of surrounding na- 
tions. On the appearance of an enemy, they immediately retreat, with their 
cattle, horses, sheep, and other valuables, to mountain caverns, fitted at all 
times for their reception, — where, by barricading the entrances, they are at 
once secure without a resort to arms. 

In regard to their origin they have lost all knowledge or even tradition, 
(a thing not likely to have happened had they been the progeny of Europeans 
at any late period, — that is, since the time of Columbus ;) neither do their 
characters, manners, customs, arts, or government savor of modern Eu- 
rope. 

Could a colony or party of Europeans in the short period of three centu- 
ries and a half lose all trace of their origin, religion, habits, arts, civilization, 
and government ? Who, for a moment, would entertain an idea so est|ip^ed 
to probability ? 

And yet the Munchies cannot be real Indians, — they must be of Euro- 
pean descent, though circumstances other than complexion afford no evi- 



200 THE MYSTERIOUS CITY 

dence of identity with eitlier race. Where, then, shall we place them ? — 
from whence is there origin ? 

We are forced to admit the weight of circumstantial testimony as to 
their having settled upon this continent prior to its discovery by Columbus. 
Here we are led to inquire, are they not tlie remote descendants of some 
colony of ancient Romans ? 

That sucli colonies did here exist in former ages, there is good reason 
for believing. The great lapse of time and other operative causes combined, 
may have transformed the Munchies from the habits, customs, character, 
religion, arts, civilization, and language of the Romans, to the condition in 
which they are at present found. 

Among the visitors at the Fort were several old trappers who had passed 
fifteen or twenty years in the Rocky Mountains and neighboring countries. 
They were what might, with propriety, be termed " hard cases." 

Tiie interval of their stay was occupied in gambling, horse-racing, and 
other like amusements. 

Bets were freely made upon everything involving the least doubt, — some- 
times to the amount of five hundred or a thousand dollars — the stakes con- 
sisting of beaver, horses, traps, &c. 

Not unfroqiiently the proceeds of months of toil, suffering, deprivation, 
and danger, were dissipated in a few hours, and the unfortunate gamester 
left witliout beaver, horse, trap, or even a gun. In such cases they bore 
their reverses without grumbling, and relinquished all to the winner, as un- 
concernedly as though these were atfairs of every-day occurrence. 

These veterans of the mountains were very communicative, and fond of 
relating their adventures, many of which were so vested with the marvel- 
ous as to involve in doubt their credibility. 

Were it not for extending the limits of this work too far, I should be 
tempted to transcribe the choicest of them for the reader's amusement ; but, 
as it is, I cannot refuse place to one (here for the first time related in my 
hearing, which has subsequently reached me from other sources) relative 
to a subject deeply interesting to the curious. 

Stevens, in his " Incidents of Travel in Yucatan," admits it to be quite 
possible that cities like those in ruins at Uxmal and Palenque, may yet 
exist in the unexplored parts of the Mexican Republic, and be inhabited by 
a people in all respects similar to that once occupying the before named. 

Those acquainted with the nature of the country embraced in the moun- 
tainous portions of Mexico, must admit the possibility of such a thing. 
With this premise I give, the story as I heard it. 

Five or six years since, a party of trappers, in search for beaver, penetrated 
into an unfrequented part of the mountains forming the eastern boundary 
of Sonora. 

During their excursion they ascended a lofty peak that overlooked an ex- 
tensive valley, apparently enclosed upon all sides by impassable mountains. 
At ft^ long distance down the valley, by aid of a spy-glass, they could 
plainly distinguish houses and people, with every indication of a populous 
city. 
^ At the point from whence this discovery was made, the mountain-side 



ITS INHABITANTS, WHO ? 201 

facing the valley was a precipitous wall of vertical rock, several hundred 
feet to its base, rendering a descent impossible. 

After trying at other places, with like ill-success, they were at length 
compelled to relinquish the design of further investigation for the time 
being. 

Subsequently, on visiting Arispie, a town of Sonora, several foreigners 
were induced to join them in a return expedition, and a company of some 
twenty or twenty-five repaired to the place for the purpose of prosecuting 
a research so interesting. 

On arriving at the mountain from whence the object of their curiosity 
had been first seen, there lay before them the valley and city with its domes 
and palaces, amid which a swarming population was distinctly observed, 
apparently engaged in the prosecution of their various avocations. There 
could be no doubt of its reahty, but how to reach it was the next question. 

A number of days were occupied in vain search for a pass into the val- 
ley. The creek upon which it lay was found to emerge from the vast 
enclosure, through the mountain, by a frightful chasm formed of vertical 
rocks upon each side, for hundreds and even thousands of feet in altitude. 
The current was rapid, and interrupted by frequent falls that precluded the 
possibility of a passage up its bed. They crossed it, and, finding a con- 
venient slope, again ascended the mountain. 

On reaching the summit, a counterscarp was observed, where, by dint 
of great exertion, a descent could be effected ; but not with horses. 

Arrangements were made accordingly, and one half of the party remained 
with the animals and baggage, while the others, continuing the exploration, 
finally succeeded in entering the valley. 

Meanwhile, the movements of the advancing party were viewed with 
great anxiety by those in reserve. In the course of the succeeding day 
they were seen to enter the city and mingle among its inhabitants ; but, 
after that, they were never again seen or heard of. 

Three weeks elapsed and no sign of them appeared. At length their 
companions were forced by hunger to leave the spot and abandon them to 
their fate. 

Another attempt to explore this mysterious locality is reported to have 
been made by a company of Spaniards, some of whom penetrated the val- 
ley, but never returned. 

The site of this city, if the story of its existence be true, is undoubtedly 
the bed of an ancient lake, whose waters have become graduaUy drained 
by a forced passage through the mountain, thus forming the chasm and 
creek above noticed. 

The people inhabiting it are probably from the stock of original Mexicans,* 
who sought this as a secure retreat from the terror of Spanish oppression 

* Baron Humboldt and some other travellers speak of quite extensive ruins ii: the 
vicinity of the Gila, which are attributed to a different race of people from those 
now inhabiting that country, or even the ancient Mexicans. Some of them are rep- 
resented as being in a tolerable state of preservation, particularly one, which is known 
as the " cassa grand." No reasonable conjecture as to their origin has yet been ad- 
duced. If they are not the ruined fabrics of ancient Mexican grandeur, to whom 
are we to look for their parentage ? 

The diversity of character between them and those of Uxmal, Palenque, and other 



202 A MINIAITURE OCEAN. 

in the time of Cortez ; since which their posterity have lived here unknown 
to the rest of the world. 

Taught by the bitter experience of past ages to hate and distrust the 
white man, and still cherishing their traditionary animosity, they permit 
none of that race to return who visit them, and, from the peculiarity of 
their position and jealous caution, have successfully maintained an uninter- 
rupted in cog. 

Several trappers rendezvoused at the Uintah being about to leave for 
Fort Hall, on the head waters of the Columbia river, I improved the oppor- 
tunity of bearing them company. 

My necessary arrangements were completed simply by exchanging horses ; 
and, on the morning of Oct. 29th, I bade farewell to my new acquaintances 
at the Fort, and joined the party en route, which, including myself and 
compagnons de voyage from Fort Lancaster, numbered eleven in all, well 
mounted and armed. 

The weather proved delightful considering the lateness of the season, 
and our journey was rapid and uninterrupted. 

On leaving the Uintah we continued northward, over a rough country, for 
some twenty-five miles, and passed the night at Ashley's Fork,* with a 
small village of Snake Indians. 

Resuming our course through a mountainous region, diversified by beauti- 
ful little valleys, late in the afternoon of the third day we camped in the 
vicinity of Brown's-hole. 

Bearing from thence a southwesterly course, two days afterwards we 
arrived at Bear river, and obtained, from an adjoining eminence, a distant 
view of the Great Salt Lake. 

Continuing down the river a few miles, we struck camp, and remained 
some three days for the purpose of hunting. 

Being unwilling to leave the vicinity without a more perfect observation 
of this vast inland sea, I improved the interval for that purpose, and, in a 
few hours' ride, came to a point which overlooked its briny waters and 
spread out before me an object of so much interest to all beholders. 

Its whilom waves now lay slumbering upon its bosom, for not a breath 
of air stirred to awake them from their transient repose, save that caused 

ruined cities of Central America, puzzles us still more ; and, as the feeble ray of con- 
jecture is the only source from whence light may be thrown upon this mysterious sub- 
ject, we would prefer the suggestion, that the progenitors of the Munchies, or white 
Indians, might have been their builders; or, if the reported existence of the city of 
the mountains as stated in the text be true, might not the ancestors of the people now in- 
habiting it have had some hand in their original construction ? But, if the latter be 
the case, and these relics are not the product of Mexican civihzation, the question 
yet remains unanswered, viz : who are the residents of that city and whence is 
their origin ? 

* This stream is named in memory of Gen. Ashley, of Mo., who, while engaged in 
the fur trade, attempted to descend the Colorado in boats, thinking thus to reach St. 
Louis by a direct water communication ! However, he was compelled to relinquish 
his strange enterprise at the mouth of this creek, on account of the difficulty and 
danger attendant upon a further progress. 



GRANDUER AND LOVELINESS. 203 



by the flutterings of countless water-fowls which beskimmed the crystal 
blue or rode upon its surface. 

No sound disturbed the stillness of its solitude, save that of my own 
footsteps Gomminghng with the incessant chatter of aquatic birds. In 
solemn grandeur it lay before the eye a desert of waters, bounded upon 
three sides by the curving horizon, while from the fourth a beautiful ex- 
panse of verdancy smiled upon its solitude. 

The island with its lone mountain, of which I have spoken in a former 
chapter, arose in full view, apparently a short distance to the southwest. 
It was a grand and imposing spectacle, and I much regretted the impossi- 
bihty of reaching it. Its giant piles of naked rock and sun-baked clay, 
seemed scanning the surrounding waves, to smile upon their soft blandish- 
ments or frown at their rudeness. 

But the Island, the Lake, and the country contiguous, have been fully 
described in former pages, which of right precludes a further notice at this 
time. 

On resuming our course we continued up Bear river to the famous min- 
eral springs, — thence bearing a northwesterly direction, we arrived at Fort 
Hall late in the afternoon of Nov. 9th. 

The route from Uintah to this point presents many interesting localities 
Bome of which call for more than a mere passing notice. That situate 
upon Green river, known as Brown's-hole,* coming lirst in order, seems 
to assert a merited precedence. 

Descending by a steep, dithcult pass from the west, fifty miles north of 
Ashley's Fork, the traveller is ushered into a beautiful valJey, some fifteen 
miles long by ten broad, shut in upon all sides by impassable mountains 

* This locality has received the soubriquet of Brown's-hole from the follov^ing cir- 
cumstance : 

Some six or seven years since, a trapper, by the name of Brown, came to it in the 
fall season for the purpose of hunting in its vicinity. During his stay a fall of snow 
closed the passes so effectually, he was forced to remain till the succeeding spring 
before he could escape from his lonely prison. 

Jt was formerly a favorite resort for the Snake Indians, on account of its exhaust- 
less stores of game and w ild fruits, as well as its security from the approach of ene- 
mies. 

JN GTE.— Taking latitude 42° north as the northern boundary between Oregon and 
California, these interesting regions of country are embraced within the limits of the lat- 
ter ; but taking the head-waters of the Arkansas as the true point, and thence, by a 
line running due west to the Pacific, nearly the whole of it will be found within the 
United States. 

The treaty with Spain in 1819, defining this boundary, which was subsequently 
confirmed by Mexico, after noting Red river as the northern boundary of its eastern 
provinces, to longitude 100° west from Greenwich, and thence north to the Arkansas, 
uses the following words : 

" Thence, following the course of the south bank of the Arkansas to its source, 
in latitude 42'^ north, thence by that parallel of latitude to the South Sea." 

If the source of the Arkansas, by its south bank, is in lat. 42° north, then the mat- 
ter of boundary admits of no question ; but if it is not in that parallel of latitude, 
ehould the latter be regarded as the true boundary, when it is evident, from the words 
of the treaty that tlie source of the Arkansas by its south bank, was the intended 



204 VICINITY OF BEAR RIVER. 

that guard it from the world without. The only feasible entrance is 
upon the east side through a remarkable caiion sixty yards wide, formed by 
cracrcry rocks six or eight hundred feet in altitude, succeeded by a still 
narrower and more precipitous one, towering to a height of twelve or fifteen 
hundred feet. 

This valley is intersected by Green river, which, emerging from the lofty 
rido-es above, and tracing its way through the narrow and frightful canons 
below, here presents a broad, smooth stream, fifty or sixty yards wide, with 
sloping banks, and passably well timbered. 

Here all the various wild fruits indigenous to the country are found in 
preat abundance, with countless multitudes of deer, elk, and sheep. 

The soil is of a dark loam, very fertile and admirably adapted to cultiva- 
tion. Vegetation attains a rank growth and continues green the entire 
year. 

Spring wedded to summer seems to have chosen this sequestered spot 
for her fixed habitation, where, when dying autumn woos the sere frost and 
snow, of winter she may withdraw to her flower-garnished retreat and 
smile and bloom forever. 

The surrounding mountains are from fifteen hundred to two thousand 
feet hio-h, and present several peaks where snow claims an unyielding do- 
minion year after year, in awful contrast with the beauty and loveliness 
that lies below. 

Few localities in the mountains are equal to this, in point of beautiful and 
romantic scenery. Every thing embraced in its confines lends to inspire 
the beholder with commingled feelings of awe and admiration. 

Its long, narrow gate-way, walled in by huge impending rocks, for hun- 
dreds of Set in altitude, — the lofty peaks that surround it, clothed in eternal 
snow, — the bold stream traversing it, whose heaving bosom pours sweet 
music into the ears of listening solitude, — the verdant lawn, spreading far 
and wide, garnished with blushing wild-flowers and arrayed in the habili- 
ments of perennial spring, — al), all combine to invest it with an enchant- 
ment as soul-expanding in its sublimity as it is fascinating in its lovehness. 

The country contiguous to Bear river, back from the valleys, is generally 
rugged and sterile. Sometimes the surface for a considerable extent is 
entirely destitute of vegetation, and presents a dreary waste of rocks, or clay 
hardened to a stone-like consistency by the sun's rays. Now and then a 
few dwarfish pines and cedars meet the eye amid the surrounding desola- 
tion, and occasional clusters of coarse grass intervene at favoring depres- 
sions among the rocks. 

FARTHEST Horthem extremity of Mexico, where the fine between the two countries 
shall commence, and thence run due west to the Pacific I 

But, instead of being in lat. 42'-' north, the source of the Arkansas is in lat. 39** 
north, as indisputably ascertained from recent explorations, and thus an interval of 
three degrees occurs between the two points named in the above treaty! 

If the United States are obligated by this treaty to receive the 42d degree as their 
southern boundary, 3Iexico is equally obligated to receive the parallel from the source 
of the Arkansas due west to the Pacific, as her true nortliern limits ; thus, a territory 
of eleven hundred and twenty-five miles from east to west, and nearly one huadrea 
and forty from north to south, is left unowned by either party ! 



THE BUFFALO-BERRY. 205 

The landscape, as a whole, possesses a savage wildness peculiar to itself, 
and bears strong indications of volcanic action. The mountains are not 
so high as those of other parts, but are far more forbidding in their aspect. 
The prevailing rock is lava, scoriated basalt, trap, bituminous limestone, 
and calcareous tufa. 

The valley of Bear river affords a number of springs strongly impreg- 
nated with various mineral properties, which cannot fail to excite the curi- 
osity and interest of the traveller. They are found upon the left bank of 
the stream, a short distance below a small affluent from the north. 

Two of them are situated in a small grove of cedars, within a short dis- 
tance of each other. 

In passing their vicinity the attention of the traveller is at once ai-rested 
by the hissing noise they emit ; and on approaching to ascertain the cause, 
he finds two circular-shaped openings in the surface, several feet in diame- 
ter, and filled with transparent fluid in a state of incessant effervescence, 
caused by the action of subterranean gases. 

The water of the one he finds on tasting to be excellent natural soda, and 
that of the other, slightly acid and beer-like ; — the draught will prove deli- 
cious and somewhat stimulating, but, if repeated too freely, it is said to pro- 
duce a kind of giddiness like intoxication. These singular natural curios- 
ities are known among the trappers as the Beer and Soda springs, names 
not altogether inappropriate. 

A few hundred yards below these, is another remarkable curiosity, called 
the Steamboat spring. This discharges a column of mineral water from a 
rock-formsd orifice, accompanied with subterraneous sounds like those pro- 
duced by a high-pressure steamboat. 

Besides the above-described, there are a number of others in this vicinity 
of equally mineral character, as well as several hot springs, varying in tem- 
perature from blood to that of extreme boiling heat. 

Bear river valley contains many wide spreads of most excellent land, 
susceptible of a high state of cultivation. In fertility it is unsurpassed, and 
varies in width from one and a half to three miles. 

The stream is not heavily timbered, but the scattering groves of pine and 
cedar among the adjoining mountains partially atone for any apparent defi- 
ciency. 

Towards its head, the hills upon either side are less rugged and barren, 
and present more frequent intervals of verdancy. 

I noticed a large number of fruit-bearing shrubs and bushes, including 
clierry, service, goose, and buffalo-berries, (two kinds,) with currants. 

The bushes of the buffalo-berry were not as yet entirely divested of their 
delicious burthen, and afforded a new variety of that fruit hitherto not having 
come under my observation. 

This berry is about the size of and similar in shape to the common currant. 
There are three kinds, — the white, yellow, and red, (shepherdia argenlia.) 

'I'he red is of a slightly tartish taste, but not unpleasant ; the yellow is 
somewhat less acid, but otherwise similar to the red ; the white, however, 
is most excellent tasted, and possesses a delicious sweetness which causes 
it to be highly relished. 

This fruit has several small seeds in it, like those of the whortleberry, 
and grows upon a bush in shape and size quite like the common shrub-oak. 



206 FORT HALL, ETC. 

It produces in such immense quantities, that the parent bush is not unfre- 
quently flattened with its superincumbent weight. 

The grizzly bear delights to revel among the thickets of this his favorite 
berry, and is almost certain to make from it his last autumn meal ere he re- 
tires to winter quarters and commences the long fast that follows. 

The valley of Bear river presents to emigrants many advantages. Pos- 
sessed not only of a rich soil, well adapted to cultivation, and vast mineral 
resources, with natural curiosities that must ever make it a central point of 
attraction, but situated in the immediate vicinity of the prospective popula- 
tion of the Great Salt Lake and upon the the direct line of over-land inter- 
course between the United States, California, and Oregon, it must command 
for its future inhabitants a sure source of prosperity and wealth. 

There is little doubt of its eventually becoming the most important sec- 
tion of Southeastern Oregon. 

In descanting upon the natural curiosities of this valley, the trappers ac- 
companying me spoke of a spring further to the northward, which constantly 
emits a small stream of mineral tar, from the mountain-side, in no respect 
inferior to the manufactured article. However, I am not certain in regard 
to the locality of this interesting phenomenon. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



Fort Hall; its history, and locality.— Information relative to Oregon.— Botwidaries 
and extent of the territory. — Its rivers and lakes, with a concise description of them 
severally. — Abundance and variety of fish and water- fowl. — Harbors and islands. — 
Oregon as a whole ; its mountains and geographical divisions. — Eastern Divison ; 
its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber ; volcanic ravages ; country between 
Clarke's river and the Columbia.— North of the Columbia ; its general character.— 
Middle Division ; its valleys, prairies, highlands, and forests. — Western Division ; 
a beautiful country ; extensive valleys of extraordinary fertility ; productive plams ; 
abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. — A brief summary of facts. 

Our journey from the Uintah to Fort Hall occupied twelve days, and took 
us a distance of about two hundred miles. Most of this time the weather 
continued mild and pleasant; the only interval of inclemency was a single 
bleak and cloudy day, succeeded by a slight fall of snow during the night, 
which the bright sunshine of the ensuing morning dissipated in a few mo- 
ments. 

Along the entire route w^e found an abundance of green grass at sheltered 
places in the valleys, and also large quantities of game, especially black- 
tailed deer, bear, and elk. Bear are more numerous in this section tlian in 
any other I am acquainted with. 

Fort Hall is located upon the left bank of Snake river, or Lewis' Fork of 
the Columbia, in a rich bottom near the delta formed by the confluence of 
the Portneuf with that stream, in lat. 43*^ 10' 30" north, long. 112° 20' 
64" west. 



PICTURE OF OREGON AS IT IS. 207 

In general structure it corresponds with most of the other trading estab- 
lishments in the country. It was built by Capt. Wythe of Boston, in 1832, 
for the purpose of furnishing trappers with their needful suppUes in ex- 
change for beaver and other peltries, and also to command the trade with 
the Snakes. Subsequently it was transferred to the Hudson Bay Company 
in whose possession it has since remained. 

Mr. Grant, a gentleman distinguished for his kindness and urbanity, is at 
present in charge, and has some sixty Canadians and half-breeds in his em- 
ploy. 

This post is in the immediate vicinity of the old war-ground between the 
Blackfoot, Snake, and Crow Indians, and was formerly considered a very 
dangerous locahty on that account. Its early occupants were subject to 
frequent losses from the hostile incursions of the former of these tribes, and 
on two or three occasions came very near being burnt out * by their un- 
sparing enemies. 

The country in the neighborhood of Fort Hall afTords several extensive 
valleys upon the Snake river and its tributaries, which are rich, well tim- 
timbered, and admirably adapted to the growth of grain and vegetables. 

The adjoining prairies also, to some extent, possess a tolerable soil, and 
abound in a choice variety of grasses. Back from the valleys and plains, 
the landscape is extremely rugged and mountainous, poorly timbered, and 
bears the character of general sterility. 

My stay at the Fort brought me in contact with gentlemen from various 
parts of Oregon; who kindly imparted to me all the information in their 
possession relative to the nature and true condition of this interesting and 
highly important section of our national domain. With the data thus ob- 
tained, assisted by subsequent personal observation and intelligence derived 
from other sources, I am enabled to arrange the following brief outhnes of 
its geography, geology, climate, and soil, including a description of its pro- 
ductions, inhabitants, natural advantages, inducements to emigrants, &c., 
which the reader may rely upon as strictly correct in every essential par- 
ticular. 

With the northern extremity of Bear river valley, the traveller enters the 
southeastern limits of Oregon Territory. By referring to the map 
it will be seen that this country is bounded upon the north f by the British 
and Russian possessions, east by the Rocky Mountains, south by Upper 
California, and west by the Pacific. It is not my present purpose to argue, 
or endeavor to sustain, the claims of our Government to the whole area em- 
braced in the above ; but conceiving the matter now settled, I shall proceed 
to the task in in hand without further preliminary. 

Oregon, like California, is possessed of many important rivers and har- 

* A. portion of the Fort was formerly constructed of wood ; — it is now built of 
"adobies" Uke other trading estabhshments of the country. 

t The treaty now in process of negotiation with Great Britain, relinquishes to that 
government all above the 49th deg., and consequently admits its claims to the entire 
northern boundary, to wit : from 49*^ to, the Russian possessions. 



208 ALL ABOUT THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 

bors, that, considering their intimate relation to the general interest of com- 
merce, seem to demand our first attention. 

The Columbia and its branches water almost the entire territory, and 
open a highway from the ocean to the lofty mountain ranges which form its 
eastern boundary. This river heads in lat, 62^ north, long. 119*^ west from 
Greenwich, and, after pursuing a serpentine course for fifteen hundred or 
two thousand miles, finds its discharge in the Pacific, at lat. 46° north. 

One hundred and twenty miles of this distance are navigable for ships 
of the largest class, but tlie remainder of its course is interrupted by occa- 
sional rapids and falls, that render frequent portages necessary. 

The upper and lower " dalls" and " cascades," present the most serious 
impediments to navigation. The former of these, situated above Clarke's 
Fork, are caused by the passage of the Columbia through immense ledges, 
that leave, huge vertical walls of basaltic rock upon either side, and com- 
press its waters to a narrow, chasm-like channel. There, dashing and 
foaming in wild fury, the torrent rushes past its lateral dikes with frightful 
velocity. 

The distance between these two " dalls" is some thirty miles. 

The "cascades" he at the base of a mountain range of the same name, 
one hundred and fifty miles from the Ocean. Near this place the whole 
stream is plunged over a precipice of fifty feet descent, forming a sublime 
and magnificent spectacle. 

Between the dalls and cascades, a reach of high-lands, formed almost en- 
tirely of naked basalt, presents another barrier, through which the river 
forces itself by a tunnel-like pass for ten or fifteen miles, leaving vast mural 
piles upon the right and left, that attain an altitude of three hundred and 
fifty or four hundred feet. 

A few miles above the junction of the southern and middle forks of the 
Columbia, two considerable lakes have been formed by the compressure of 
its waters among the adjoining mountains. 

The first of these is about twenty miles long and six broad, shut in by 
high, towering hills, covered with stately pine forests. 

Emerging from this, the river urges its way through lofty embankments 
of volcanic rock for some five miles or more, when a second lake is formed 
in a similar manner, which is about twenty-five miles in length and six in 
width. 

Note. — Capt. Fremont, in speaking of the Cohimbia, makes use of the following 
just observations : 

" The CohuTibia is the only river which traverses the whole breadth of the country, 
breaking through aU the ranges, and entering into the sea. Drawing its waters from 
a section of ten degrees of latitude in the Rocky 3Iount.ains, which are collected 
into one stream by three main forks (Lewis', Clarke's, and the North Fork) near the 
centre of the Oregon valley, this great river thence proceeds by a single channel into 
the sea, while its three forks lead each to a pass in the mountains, which opens the 
way into the interior of the continent. 

"This fact, in reference to the rivers of this region, gives an immense value to the 
Columbia. Its mouth is the only inlet and outlet to and from the sea ; its three forks 
lead to passes in the mountains ; it is, therefore, the only line of communication be- 
tween the Pacific and the interior of North America ; and all operations of war or 
commerce, of national or social intercourse, must be conducted upon it." 



OTHER RIVERS OF THE TERRITORY. 209 

There are also several other lakes, of greater or less extent, at difi'erent 
points along its course. 

Perhaps no river in the world, of the same length, affords such varied 
and picturesque scenery as does the Columbia. 

Its lakes, tunnels, cascades, falls, mountains, rocky embankments, prairies, 
plains, bottoms, meadows, and islands, disclose an agreeable medley of wild 
romance, solemn grandeur, and pleasing beauty, far surpassing that of any 
other country. 

During its course it receives numerous tributaries, the most important of 
which are the Clarke, Flat-bow, Spokan, Okanagan, Snake, Yakama, Piscous, 
Entyatecoom, Umatilla, Quisnel, John Day, D'Chute, Cathlatates, Walla- 
walla, Wallammette, and Cawlitz. 

The Clarke, Snake, and Wallammette rivers, seem to call for more than 
a bare allusion. 

The former of these rises in the Rocky Mountains, near lat. 46" north, and 
following its windings, is about five hundred and fifty miles in length. A 
lake, some thirty miles long and eight broad, is also formed in its course, 
about one hundred miles above its mouth. During its windings it receives 
a large number of affluents, which unite to swell the volume of its waters 
to the full size of its parent stream. 

The Snake, or Lewis' Fork, is equally important. It rises in lat. 42° 
north, and, pursuing a northwesterly direction for five hundred miles, is 
discharged into the Columbia, at lat. 46° north. This river also receives 
several tributaries, the largest of which are the Kooskooskie and Salmon. 

The Wallamette heads in the Cascade Mountains, in Upper California, 
near lat. 41° north, and bears a northerly course for nearly three hundred 
and fifty miles. One hundred and twenty-five miles of this distance are 
navigable for boats of a light draught. 

Several tributaries, both from the east and west, unite to increase its 
magnitude and enhance its importance. 

The Umpqua, which is the next river worthy of notice below the Colum- 
bia, has its source in the Cascade Mountains, near lat. 43° north, and run- 
ning westerly for almost three hundred miles, is finally discharged into the 
Pacific. Some forty or fifty miles of this distance are said to be navigable. 

South of the Umpqua a stream of nearly equal size empties into the Pa- 
cific, called Rogue's river. This also rises in the Cascade Mountains, at 
lat. 42° north, and is said to be navigable for boats of a light draught, some 
seventy miles or more. 

The Chilkeelis is the first river north of the Columbia, and rises in the 
mountains, near lat. 48° north. Pursuing a westerly course, it discharges 
itself into the Pacific at Gray's Harbor, after flowing a distance of about 
two hundred and fifty miles. 

Fraser's river is the extreme northern one of Oregon. It heads in the 
Rocky Mountains, near lat 54° north, and empties into the Gulf of Georgia, 
at lat 49° north. In its course it receives several large tributaries, and 
pursues its way for a distance of about four hundred miles, eighty of which 
are navigable. 

Besides those above named, there are several other streams, of less mag- 
nitude, emptying into the Pacific at various points along its coast, all of 

14 



210 HARBORS ETC. 

which, as the country becomes settled, will contribute to the facilities of 
commerce and manufactures. 

The rivers of Oregon, in the abundance and quality of their fish, are 
unparalleled. At certain seasons of the year, their waters are completely 
alive with the countless myriads that swarm them to their very sources. 

Even the small streams are not exempt from this thronging population. 
So great is their number they are frequently taken by the hand ; and, with 
the aid of a net, several barrels may be caught at a single haul. It re- 
quires but little effjrt to obtain them, and large quantities are annually 
shipped to the Sandwich Islands and various other points. 

Fish are undoubtedly destined to furnish an important item in the future 
commerce of Oregon. At the present time they supply the principal food 
of its inhabitants, both Indians and whites. Among the different varieties 
abounding in these streams, salmon and salmon trout claim the precedence, 
both in numbers and qualities. 

These delicious fish attain a size seldom surpassed, and are found in 
every accessible river and creek. The bays, harbors, and mouths of rivers 
are also thronged with cod, herring, sturgeon, and occasionally whales, 
while vast quantities of oysters, clams, lobsters, &c., may be obtained along 
the coast. 

Next to fish, in connection with the rivers, the extraordinary number of 
aquatic birds arrests the attention. These consist of geese, brants, ducks 
(of three or four varieties,) swans, pelicans, and gulls. 

At certain seasons, they throng the rivers, creeks, lakes, and ponds, at 
different parts, in innumerable multitudes, and not only keep the waters in 
constant turmoil from their nautic exercises and sports, but fill the air with 
the wild clamor of their incessant quackings. An expert sportsman may 
kill hundreds of them in a few hours. 

So abundant are they that their feathers may be obtained of the Indians 
in any requisite quantity, for a trifling consideration — in all respects equal, 
for bedding, to those procured from domesticated geese and ducks. 

In regard to harbors, the natural advantages of Oregon are not equal to 
those of California ; though, as the country becomes settled, the ingenuity 
of man will speedily atone for these apparent deficiencies ; and if she has 
not the matchless basin of the Bay of San Francisco, she has other locali- 
ties upon her sea-board that, with a small expenditure of money and effort, 
may be made secure and adapted to all her commercial requirements. 

It is much to be regretted, however, that the Columbia affords not an 
easy and secure entrance for ships from the Ocean, as this will undoubted- 
ly become the most important point of the whole coast. 

At present, the mouth of this river, between Points Adams and Hancock, 
is partially blocked up by large sand-bars, deposited by the current, and 
maintained in their places through the repulsive action of the sea-waves. 

How far these impediments may operate to the future detriment of com- 
merce, remains to be seen. Unless some remedy should be adopted, the 
harbor of this great embryo depot of Western trade will continue to oppose 
a difficult entrance. 

The estuaries of the Umpqua and Rogue rivers are more difficult of ac- 



GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. 211 

cess than the Columbia. It is even said, that there is not a good harbor on 
the coast of Oregon below lat. 46"^ nortl^i. Above this parallel there are 
several, not only easy of access but secure of anchorage ; the principal of 
which are those of the Straits of Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia. 
The islands of Vancouvre and Queen Charlotte* also possess a number of 
excellent harbors. 

These islands are large, well timbered, and generally fertile. Though, 
like the mainland, quite broken and hilly, they embrace many beautilul 
plains and lovely valleys, abounding with game, and coursed by ample 
streams of fresh water. Vancouvre's [sland is two hundred and si.\ty miles 
long by fifty in width, and Queen Charlotte's one hundred and forty by 
twenty-eight. In addition to the above named, there are a number of small- 
er islands near the Straits of Juan de Fuca — more important on account 
of their fisheries than the quality of their soil. 

The whole extent of the sea-coast, connected with the territory, (i. e.. 
from California to the Russian possessions,) is about one thousand miles, 
besides that of its various islands. Reckoning from the above data, the 
area included within its limits is not far from nine hundred and two thou- 
sand, two hundred and fifty square miles. 

To speak of this vast country in toto, we could give no general character 
either in regard to its climate, soil, or productions, possessed, as it is, of 
every diversity, from the piercing frosts of perpetual winter, to the smihng 
verdancy of unfading spring — from the dwarfish herbage of the arctic re- 
gions, to the generous fruits of warmer zones — and from the barren steri- 
lity of a Lybian desert, to the exuberant fecundity of earth's choicest gar- 
den-spots. 

However, from the numerous peaks that rear their cloud-capped heads in 
almost every direction, and the continuous ridges intersecting it from side 
to side and from end to end, we might with safety pronounce it mountainous. 

The Rocky Mountains, forming its eastern boundary, branch off wester- 
ly and northwesterly at various points, and, in connection with other ridges, 
beUne the whole country. It is my present purpose merely to classify some 
the more extensive of these ranges, and note their locality, as auxiliary to 
a more accurate and comprehensive disposal of the leading subject before 
the reader. 

The Blue Mountain chain commences not far from 45*^ 30^ north lati- 
tude, and bears a southerly course, till it passes into California and unites 
with the intersecting ridges of that province. It runs nearly parallel with 
the Rocky Mountains, at an interval varying from one hundred to one hun- 
dred and fifty miles, forming the Eastern Division of Oregon. 

The Cascade chain (before noticed, in connection with California) com- 
mences in the Russian possessions, and pursues a southerly course through 
both countries, till it finally becomes lost in the sea-girt isthmus of the Lower 
Province. It runs parallel with the coast, at a distance varying from one 
hundred to one hundred and fifty miles, and defines the Western and Mid- 
dle Divisions of Oregon. 

* By the terms of the proposed treaty, the islands of Vancouvre and Queen Char- 
lotte are transferred to Great Britain, leaving only a few diminutive and comparative- 
ly valueless ports in the Straits of Juan de Fuca and in islets south of Vancouvre, 
within the hmits of the U. S. territory. 



212 A BEAUTY SPOT. 

The country north of the Columbia is also traversed by numerous branch- 
es and spurs of the Rocky and Cascade Mountains, many of them present- 
ing loity peaks, covered with never-melting snow and ice. 

The mountain ranges before described, have many summits towering far 
above the snow-line. They are generally less sterile than the main chain 
of the Rocky Mountains, and, amid their snow-clad tops and denuded emi- 
nences, present alternate spreads of high table land and rolling prairie, 
clothed with vegetation, and dense forests of pine, cedar, fir, and oak, or open- 
ing valleys arrayed in all the enchantment of vernal lovehness. 

The Eastern, or Southeasterly Division of Oregon, partakes of a greater 
variety of wild and savage scenery, intermixed with beauty and desolation, 
than any other section in the whole territory. 

The valleys of Bear river and those parts contiguous to Fort Hall, have 
already been described on a preceding page, and all their varied attrac- 
tions fully descanted upon. Besides these, there are other valleys in the 
neighborhood of the South Pass, upon Little and Big Sandy, and the New 
Forks of Green river, that claim a passing notice. 

The valleys last referred to are of variable width and possess a fertile 
soil, adapted to either grazing or agricultural purposes, and assume an 
additional importance from their situation in reference to the grand routes 
from the United States to Oregon and California. They are capable of 
sustaining a small population with peculiar advantage, were it not for 
the troubles that might be anticipated from the hostile incursions of the 
Blackfeet and Sioux. 

Below Fort Hall, the valleys of Snake, or Lewis' river, are somewhat 
limited, but very fertile, though enclosed for the most part by denuded 
and sterile mountains. In the vicinity of Fort Boise, on the bank of 
Lewis' Fork, are several rich and extensive plains and valleys, more or 
less adapted to cultivation. 

The Koo.skooskie and Salmon rivers, also, present some fine bottoms. 
Another beautiful valley is situated upon Powder river, a considerable 
creek, about forty miles below Fort Boise. It is large and very fertile, 
but lacks a sufficiency of timber without a resort to the dense pine forests 
of the neighboring hills. 

The next section that attracts the traveller's attention as he proceeds 
towards the Columbia, is a favored spot known as le Grand Rond, bound- 
ed on all sides by mountains, in the vicinity of the Blue range. This 
locality is nearly circular, and about one hundred and fifty miles in cir- 
cumference, well watered and possesses a soil of matchless fertility.* 

* The following analysis of the soil of this valley, as furnished by Capt. Fremont, 
will attest its superior quality : 

Silicia ---a---- 

Alumnia ..----- 

Lime and magnesia - g . - • - 

Oxade of iron ...--. 

Vegetable matter partly decomposed - - - - 

Water and looss ------ 

Phosphate of lime . - ,, :.^ ■ 

100, 00 



70, 


81 


10, 


97 


], 


38 


2, 


21 


8, 


16 


5, 


46 


1, 


01 



NORTHERN PART. 213 



Timber of the best kind may be procured, in any quantity, from the ad- 
joining mountains, and, to a limited extent, from the valley. 

Trappers speak of the Grand Rond with an enthusiasm which is cordi- 
ally responded to by all who have hitherto visited it. So far as soil and 
climate are concerned, a better section of country than this is rarely 
found. 

Southeast from the place last described, sixty miles or more, lies a long 
stretch of desolate country which bears a strikingly volcanic appearance. 
This region is thickly paved with vast piles of lava and igneous rock, 
strown about in confused fragments, as if the mountains had been rent 
asunder and dashed in horrid medley upon the adjoining plains, and earth, 
itself, had undergone all the indescribable contorsions of more than 
agony, — now opening in frightful chasms, — now vibrating with unheard- 
of violence, oversetting hills and rooting them from their foundations by 
the impetuosity of its motion, or elevating half vertically, the immense 
layers of subterranean rock forming the valves of distorted fissures, and 
depressing the opposing ones in frightful contrast, — in haste to complete 
the picture of destruction by an imposing array of wild and savage scenery. 
Numerous boiling springs are also found among these wide-spread heaps 
of ruined nature whose waters are frequently so hot that meat may be 
cooked in a very few minutes by submersion in them. 

Several streams trace their way through this region, affording occasional 
bottoms of fertile soil and luxuriant vegetation, that smile with bewitching 
enchantment upon the relentless havoc surrounding them. 

Upon Clarke's river and its tributaries, as well as the numerous lakes 
adjacent to them, there are large quantities of excellent land, well adapted 
to agricultural and grazing purposes. The hills, too, are generally studded 
with dense forests of pine and fir, some of them of gigantic growth, while 
the intervning plateaux and high prairies present frequent intervals of 
lusty grasses. 

The same may be said, though in a more restricted sense, of most of the 
country lying between Clarke's river and the Columbia. 

The streams of water and lakes are most of them skirted with bottoms 
and valleys of greater or less extent, tolerably well timbered, while the 
neighboring hills afford frequent groves of heavy pines, diversified with 
openings of grass-clad prairies or of denuded barrenness. 

Many interesting localities lie along the Columbia, above the confluence 
of Clarke's river, as well as upon the several tributaries finding their way 
into it. A tract of country circumjacent to the Lower Lake possesses a 
rich /5oil, with other advantages, which in due time will command the atten- 
tion of emigrants. 

The section lying still north of this is but little better than a barren 
waste of frost and snow, with now and then choice spots of rank vegeta- 
tion and rich floral beauty, shut up in their stern recesses, in wonderful 
contrast with the savage sublimity and wild disorder of the masses of naked 
rock that surround them. 

Frasier's river has an extensive valley of excellent and well timbered 
land, skirting it in variable width, from mouth to source. The same may 
be said of many of its tributaries. The Chilkeelis, also, possesses many 
choice spots. 



214 THE WESTERN DIVISION. 

But, as a general thing, that portion of country north of the Columbia 
is the most vvorthless part of Oregon. 

A vast share of it is mere naked rock or deserts of ice and snow, with 
now and then dense forests of pine, cedar, and fir. There are, compara- 
tively, few arable prairies ; and not more than one half of the whole extent 
can be turned to any useful purpose. Perhaps one sixth of it is suscepti- 
ble of cultivation. In fact, the only localities worthy of mention are the 
valleys scattered among the Claset and Cascade Mountains, and along the 
different rivers and creeks. 

The cause of this general sterility is more to be attributed to the severity 
of the climate, consequent upon a high northern latitude, combined with the 
broken and mountainous character of the country, than to any great natural 
deficiency of soil. Of course it can never become thickly populated. 

Its timber, fisheries, and facilities for manufactures, stock-raising, and the 
gro\\1;h of wool, embrace its greatest inducements to emigrants ; though, 
in a commercial point of view, its extensive fur trade and commodious har- 
bors, with other kindred advantages, should not be overlooked. 

We now come to the Middle Division, or that section south of the Co- 
lumbia, between the Blue and Cascade Mountains. 

In this division of Oregon the face of the country is very much diversi- 
fied. As a whole, it presents a continued series of conical hills, huge mas- 
ses of rock, and undulating prairies, intermixed with lofty, cloud-capped 
peaks, shooting transversely from the ridges that form its eastern and west- 
ern boundaries. These mountains are usually clothed with rank vegeta- 
tion, and frequently present stately forests of valuable timber, particularly 
the Blue range. 

It also contains many extensive valleys of great fertihty, situated among 
its mountains and upon the John Day, Quisnell, Umatilla, D'Chute, and 
Wallawalla rivers, and their numerous affluents. 

The southern extremity likewise affords many fertile and extensive val- 
leys, but it is rather sparsely timbered. In the immediate vicinity of the 
Columbia, the land is sandy and barren, though back from the river, the 
hills are tolerably rich and coated with heavy pine forests. 

Nearly the whole of this section may be considered available for agricul- 
ture and stock-raising. 

The Western Division next commands our attention. Below the Cas- 
cades, the country contiguous to the Columbia presents a vast extent of 
thickly timbered and extremely fertile bottomland, one hundred and twenty 
miles wide, interspersed with frequent openings of lusty vegetation. 

The forests of this section afford some of the largest and most beautiful 
pine and fir trees in the world. Its valleys, plains, and hills are likewise 
possessed of a most excellent soil, adapted to every practicable use. 

Above this, and bordering upon the Straits of Juan de Fuca are also 
large tracts of fine land, well watered, timbered, and fertile. 

Southward, towards the confines of California, the Umpqua and Rogue 
rivers claim several very extensive and fertile valleys and bottom lands. 
Upon the former of these are said to be two, one of which is forty miles in 
length by ten in width, and the other seventy by fifteen ; — upon the latter, 
is one eighty miles long, and varying from fifteen to fifty in width. 



MAGNIFICENT FOREST TREES. 215 

Besides the above mentioned, there are numerous other valleys, all of 
v^rhich are well timbered and of unparalleled fertility. 

No country in the world affords a better soil, or a more romantic scenery. 
The mountains bounding them rise in stately grandeur, oftentimes far above 
the clouds, to converse with the relentless snows of successive ages, — ■ 
now presenting their nude sides, paved with dark masses of frowning rocks, 
or proud forests of evergreen, verdant lawns, flowery dales, and sterile 
wastes, to overlook the perennial beauty and matchless fecundity at their 
feet, — while the lesser eminences with their deep ravines, o'erhanging 
cliffs, and shadowy recesses, tell the place where the storm-winds recruit 
their forces and tlie zephyrs creep in to die. 

There are also large valleys, of equally fertile soil, upon the head waters 
of the Tlameth river, near the southern boundary, well worth the attention 
of emigrants. 

The most interesting portion of the Western Division, however, is that 
bordering upon the Wallammette and its affluents. The valley of this river 
is one hundred and fifty miles long by thirty-five broad. The soil is a deep 
alluvion, of extraordinary fertility. 

It is not only well watered, but well timbered, and produces all the vege- 
tables, fruits, and grasses indigenous to the country, with astonishing pro- 
fuseness. No region was ever better adapted to agricultural or grazing 
purposes. 

The Fualitine Plains, adjoining this beautiful expanse of fertility upon 
the left, towards the Columbia, embrace an area of forty-five miles in length 
by fifteen in breadth, well watered and amply timbered, with a soil in all 
respects equal. 

The Klackamus, Putin, Fualitine, Yamhill, and other rivers, are all of 
them skirted by beautiful and fertile valleys of greater or less extent, while 
the adjacent hills and prairies afford not only frequent forests of excellent 
timber, but generally a very good soil. 

The landscape of this vicinity, though not, strictly speaking, hilly, is 
highly indulating, but quite productive in grass and herbage. 

The Cawlitz river, which empties into the Columbia a short distance below 
the Wallammette, has several rich bottoms, and waters a large extent of 
country, admirably adapted to stock-raising and agriculture. 

At the mouth of the Wallammette river is an island some fifteen miles 
in length by nearly the same distance in breadth, called Wappato; it is of 
a deep alluvial soil, formed from sedimentary deposites and decayed vegeta- 
ble substances, and is very rich and densely timbered. 

The country at the mouth of the Columbia and for some ten or fifteen 
miles interior, is sandy and sterile, — a fact much to be regretted, as from 
its peculiar locality this point must necessarily become the site of a vastly 
important commercial emporium, vieing in population, splendor, and opu- 
lence, the time- grown cities of more eastern climes. 

The stately forests of pine and fir, in the Western Division of Oregon^ 
have for a long time challenged the admiration of the world, and it is 
strongly doubted whether the chosen veterans of foreign woods can produce 
a rival to some few specimens of the proud giants of its soil. 

These not unfrequently tower to "a height of two hundred feet, and even 



216 A GLANCE AT THE WHOLE. 

more,— leaving from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and seventy-five 
feet clear of limb, with scarcely a curve in the entire length. 

One of them, standing near Fort George on the Columbia river, is said 
to measure forty-seven feet in circumference, three hundred and fifty feet 
in altitude, and two hundred and sixty-five leet clear of limb ; another, upon 
the Umpqua river, is reported even larger , and yet another, in the same 
vicinity, very nearly equals it in size. 

Timber of this kind affords the choicest arlicle for lumber, which beaijs a 
very high price at the Sandwich Islands and in various parts of Mexico, 
and will no doubt become a staple commodity in the commerce of Oregon ; 
while the immense forests of pine, fir, and oak, rearing their stately heads 
in thick array, must prove a sure source of wealth to its future inhabi- 
tants. 

The principal kinds of wood indigenous to the country are white-oak, 
live-oak, maple, ash, pine, fir, cedar, hemlock, spruce, cottonwood, aspen, 
and cherry. 

Live-oak is found chiefly in the southern part, and, in quality, stands 
foremost among the denizens of the forest for ship-building. Several other 
species of oak are more or less abundant in various parts. 

In review of the subjects occupying the preceding pages, we may pre- 
sent the following summary : 

Nearly one-fifth of the entire territory is timbered ; three-eighths of it 
may be successfully cultivated, (embracing the richest lands in the Federal 
Domain.) and two-thirds of it may aflLrd pasturage for cattle, horses, 
and sheep. 

It is generally better watered and much better timbered than California ; 
and, though its harbors are inferior in regard to safety and ease of access, 
Oregon possesses other advantages, aside from soil and climate, com- 
pensating, in some measure, for these obvious deficiencies, and which com- 
bine to render it a most eligible point of emigration. 



217 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Chmate of Oregon ; its variableness ; its rains ; a southern climate in a northern 
latitude. — Productiveness ; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and cultivated.— Geo- 
logical characteristics. — Soils and prevailing rock. — Minerals, &c. — Variety of 
game. — ^Wolves. — Horses, and other domestic animals. — Population, Avhite and na- 
tives ; Indian tribes, their character and condition. — Missionary stations, and their 
improvements. — Present trade of Oregon. — Posts of the Hudson Bay Compaiy. — 
Settlements. — Oregon City, its situation and advantages ; about Linnton ; al)out 
Wallammette valley, Fualitine Plains, and Umpqua river ; Vancouvre, and its su- 
perior advantages. — Kindness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers. 

The next which seems to demand our notice, in due order, is the climate 
of this interesting country. ' 

We need only bear in mind the geographical position and diversified 
character of Oregon, to satisfy ourselves of the true merits of the subject 
now before us. A mountainous country like this must necessarily em- 
brace every variety of climate, from that of the ice-bound coasts and ever- 
scathing frosts of the polar regions, to the burning heat of the equator. — 
from the mild atmosphere of Italian skies, to the genial temperature which 
paints the wild-flowers in their primeval beauty, while month succeeding 
month doles out the year, nor feels nor knows the chill-breath of winter. 

A short jaunt at any time translates the traveller, at his own option, 
to regions of winter, spring, summer, or fall, and spreads before him all the 
varied beauties and deformities of either. 

As a general thing, however, the winters of Oregon are much more tem- 
perate than those ot countries in the same latitude bordering upon the 
Atlantic — a fact which may be attributed to the usual prevalence of wes- 
terly winds at that season. 

These winds, on passing the mountains and traversing the vast extent 
of snowy prairie and open land in their course, become vested with a chill- 
ing severity unknown to its incipiency, when, from the warm bosom of the 
broad Pacitic, they first waft themselves o'er the blooming valleys, smiling 
plains, grass-clad hills, and mountains garbed in stately forests, commingled 
with stern desolation, to lavish upon all these varied scenes the soft blan- 
dishments of the Indies, and engender the interesting phenomenon of a south- 
ern climate in a high northern latitude. 

The country contiguous to Frasier's river, and even below it for some 
distance, is usually visited with long and severe winters, and enjoys com- 
paratively but a short interval of genial weather during the spring and 
summer months. 

The valleys, however, not unfrequently afibrd exceptions to this remark, 
when favorably located in regard to the wind and sun. In this section it 
seldom rains, a circumstance causing an unproductive and arid soil. 



218 



CLIMATE OF OREGON. 



The Eastern Division is, perhaps, more variable in regard to tempera- 
ture than any other portion of Oregon. Its valleys are usually possessed 
of a mild and delightful climate, so much so that stock vi^ill subsist the 
entire winter v^^ithout being fed or housed. 

The plains and high prairies present a longer interval of inclement 
weather, and the snow continues on the ground for a much greater length 
of time, than in the low-lands. 

Some particular localities are subject to very sudden changes, and not 
unfrequently experience the warm breath of summer with the chill blasts 
of fresh-born winter during the short lapse of a single day and night. 

In reference to the high mountains, it is sufficient to remark, that with 
them winter is a season too congenial not to be felt in all its rigors, to 
the entire extent of its duration. "The diversity of temperature in these 
parts depends mostly upon the altitude. The lower benches experiencing 
a mild atmosphere even in the severest weather, permit the snow to re- 
main only for a short interval succeeding its fall, and woo the willing 
spring ; while the higher ones treasure up each descending flake to nour- 
ish the scathing blasts that leap from the mountain-tops, fresh-cradled 
in the lap of winter. 

Notwithstanding these apparent disadvantages, the Eastern Division 
may be regarded as universally healthy. The purity of the atmosphere, 
and its absence from noxious exhalations and disease-engendering efHu- 
via, undoubtedly contribute the prime cause in producing a result so 
favorable. 

Rains are not usual to this part in the summer months, nor even in 
the winter and spring are they common to any great extent. The snows 
of winter, together with the rains of that season and autumn, and the 
occasional dews of summer, in most cases, afTord a sufficient moisture to the 
low-lands for agricultural purposes. 

That section situated between the Blue and Cascade Mountains, known 
as the Middle Division, is said to possess, comparatively, a much milder 
and less variable climate. 

The winters are usually open and of short duration, snow lying upon 
the ground, in the valleys, rarely exceeding four days in succession, and 
vegetation, in some instances, remains green the entire season. The prai- 
ries, too, are generally covered only for a short time. 

The heat of summer lacks that oppressiveness so common to most 
countries. In regard to the health of this section, we may correctly apply 
the observations made relative to the Eastern Division. A country situ- 
ated like the one now forming the subject of our remarks, cannot be oth- 
erwise than healthy, as a general thing. 

The snow of winter and the rains of spring and autumn, coupled with 
the light dews of summer, furnish all the moisture usual to the soil, 
which the moderate heat of the latter season renders sufficient for the 
growth of vegetation and the production of grain and other crops. 

The Western Division possesses not only a soil but a climate more fa- 
vorable to vegetation than any other portion of Oregon. In the southern 
part it seldom snows, and the weather is so mild, that the grass continues 
green and flourishing the entire year. Water never freezes, unless it 
be in some elevated pool or lake. 



PRODUCTIONS OF DIFFERENT SECTIONS. 219 



The absence of sufficient rains and dews, however, during the summer 
months at some points, renders an occasional resort to irrigation necessary 
for the production of corn, potatoes, and articles of a like nature. 

Two crops of some kinds of produce may be raised with success in a 
single year. 

In the vicinity of the Wallammette, the winters are only a trifle colder. 
Running water seldom freezes. Snow never falls to exceed the depth 
of a few inches, and disappears in a very short time succeeding. 

Vegetation in the valleys, and even upon the plains, to some extent, 
remains green year in and year out. Of course no better climate could 
be selected for stock-raising. 

These remarks may be applied with equal propriety to the other por- 
tions of the Western Division south of the Columbia and in its immediate 
vicinity. The country further north, for a considerable distance, posses- 
ses a climate almost as favorable. The snows of winter, however, are 
usually more frequent and less transitory in their continuance. 

The cold season is confined almost exclusively to the three winter months. 
The heat of summer is moderate and agreeable, generally ranging at 62*^ 
Fahrenheit, above zero, in its mean temperature. 

The wet season of the Western Division usually occurs from October to 
March of each year, inclusive ; at other times rain seldom falls. During 
this season it descends in gentle showers, or in the shape of mist, at inter- 
vals, for about one half of the time. The moisture received into the earth 
meanwhile, together with the nightly dews and other favorable agencies 
during the summer months, renders the soil adapted to cultivation. 

Back from the valleys and bottoms, the atmosphere is quite wholesome 
and salubrious. Fevers are seldom known, and pulmonary complaints are 
equally rare. 

In the vicinity of the Columbia, intermittent fevers are not uncommon, 
though by no means as bad as in some parts of our frontier States. 

Next in the order before us come the various productions which may 
be, and are, successfully cultivated in the different sections of this part of 
our national domain. 

The soil and climate of the Eastern Division have been sufficiently test- 
ed to know their capacity for producing nearly, if not quite, all the various 
grains, vegetables, and fruits usually grown in our Northern and Middle 
States. A great variety of wild fruits and vegetables grow spontaneously, 
in different parts, and in great abundance. 

The soil and climate, as a whole, seem better adapted to the culture of 
fruits and grains, than vegetables ; and perhaps we might add, for the rais- 
ing of cattle, horses, and sheep, than agriculture ; though the latter obser- 
vation is not to be so construed as to affirm that farming may not be suc- 
cessfully and profitably prosecuted in many parts. 

The Northern Division, or that portion of Oregon lying on the head- 
waters of the Columbia, in the vicinity and south of Frasier's river, and 
upon the Chilkeelis, being much colder and more sterile, must necessarily 
be regarded in a less favorable light than the country referred to in the 
preceding paragraph. But, little is known as to its products or the capa- 
cities of its soil and climate ; yet, it is said that some particular kinds of 



220 PREVAILING ROCK. 



fruit are indigenous to this region, and it is generally supposed that wheat, 
barley, oats, buckwheat, flax, and other articles of hke nature, might be 
raised within it. Of course, these remarks apply only to the valleys. 

The Middle Division affords a finer soil and a more favorable climate 
than the Eastern ; but, in regard to productions, it is much the same. All 
the northern fruits, grains, and vegetables, may be produced in great abun- 
dance, with the exception of corn — the land being generally too dry and 
too much subject to unseasonable frosts ; corn, however, has been success- 
fully cultivated on the Wallawalla. 

There are several varieties of wild fruits found here, among which are 
included cherries, with larb, buflal , goose, and service berries, and cur- 
rants, plums, and grapes, together with several other species not recollect- 
ed, as well as vegetables and roots. 

The Western Division not only maintains its pre-eminence in relation to 
soil 'dnd climate, but stands equally conspicuous in the variety and abun- 
dance of its productions. It is thought, and not without reason, that cotton, 
sugar-cane, and various other productions of a warm and even tropical 
climate might here be raised without difficulty. 

When the ground is in a suitable condition, the avarage crop of wheat 
is from twenty to twenty -five bushels to the acre. Vast quantities of it are 
annually produced by settlers in different parts of the country. A surplus 
of one hundred thousand bushels is reported to have been grown, in the 
region adjoining the Wallammette, during the summer of 1844. 

The Hudson Bay Company, at Fort Vancouvre, have several very ex- 
tensive farms under improvement, upon which they raise nearly every va- 
riety of grain and vegetables, with flattering success. 

In the garden of McLaughlin, the chief factor of this company, are found 
almost every species of fruits and flowers indigenous to this country and 
to foreign soils of the same latitude, with several varieties produced only 
in warm climates. 

We barely allude to the above facts, in order to prove the adaptation of 
Western Oregon to agricultural pursuits. The data relative to its extraor- 
dinary facilities for rearing countless herds of cattle, horses, and sheep, 
have already been placed before the reader, and need not here a repetition. 

The components of the soils of Oregon are equally varied in character, 
according to their situation. The bottoms are usually of a deep, sandy 
alluvion, intermixed with vegetable and organic matter. The valleys are 
of a heavy loam, enriched by the debris and other fertilizing properties 
borne from the high grounds by the annual rains, together with the con- 
stant accumulation of decayed herbage and grass so lavishly bestrewn at 
each returning season. 

The prairies are possessed of either a light sandy superfice, or a mixture 
of gravel and stiflT clay. The superstratum of the hills and mountains 
varies from wastes of naked sand, sun-baked clay, and spreads of denuded 
rock, to a thin vegetable mould, and a light marly loam of greater or less 
fecundity. 

The rock of this territory also presents many different specimens ; the 
prominent classifications, however, are volcanic, viz : basalt, (columnar and 
scoriated,) trap, lava, pumicestone, limestone (fossiliferous, bituminous, 
and earthy,) and mica slate, with sandstone, puddingstone, granular quartz, 



POPULATION OF THE TERRITORY. 221 

calcareous tufa, and agglomerated boulders of various kinds, particularly 
in the Eastern Division. The varieties of some })arts present strong char- 
acteristics of the oolite formation. The hills contain many excellent quar- 
ries for the structure of buildings or other useful purposes. 

Hitherto but little investigation has been had relative to the mineral re- 
sources of Oregon ; though sufficient is known to warrant the statement, 
that copper, lead, iron, coal, salt, soda, sulphur, nitre, and alum, are abundant 
in some parts ; and, from the nature of the country, we may safely infer that 
yet more valuable metals are waiting to reward with their hidden treasures 
the researches of man. 

Game, in the Eastern and Middle Divisions, is not generally plentiful ; 
yet, in places, there are an abundance of deer, elk, antelope, bear, wolves, 
and foxes; — buffalo are also found occasionally in the vicinity of the Rocky 
Mountains. In the Northern Division, moose, deer, elk, bear, foxes, and 
wolves, are the varieties most common. Game is more abundant in the 
Western than in the other Divisions, and is nearly of the same kind. 

Ducks, geese, brants, pheasants, partridges, &lc., are common throughout 
the whole territory. 

Wolves are very numerous in the neighborhood of the settlements, and 
prove a great source of annoyance to the inhabitants by preying upon their 
cattle and other stock. These wolves consist of three kinds, — the black, 
gray, and prairie wolf, of which, as in California, the black wolf is the largest 
and most ferocious. 

As a grazing country, the available lands of the three divisions of Oregon, 
south of the Columbia and the one immediately north of that river, are little 
inferior, if, indeed, not fully equal, to the far-famed meadows and lawns of 
California. 

Horses are reared in vast numbers by the Indians, among whom it is not 
uncommon to find a single individual owning three or four hundred head. 
Select horses may be bought at prices ranging from twelve to twenty dol- 
lars each. 

These animals are generally stout and hardy, capable of enduring a vast 
amount of fatigue, and are but little inferior in point of size to our American 
nags. 

Large herds of horses are also raised by the settlers, and at the Hudson 
Bay Company's establishments. 

Latterly, cattle, hogs, and sheep, are beginning to receive the attention 
of the farming community, and, without doubt, soon will become immensely 
numerous. It needs only the operation of time to render Oregon as fa- 
mous for its countless herds, as for the abundance and variety of its pro- 
ductions. 

The entire population of the territory at this time, may be estimated at 
thirty-five thousand, of which about seven thousand are whites and half- 
breeds, and the balance Indians. 

The Indians principally consist of the following tribes : the Snakes, 
Blackfeet, Flatheads, Nesperces, Bonarks, Cyuses, Wallawallas, Chinooks, 
Shatchets, Chalams, Killamucs, Squamishes, Clasets, Tonandos, Klacka- 
mus,"Clatsup, Umpquas, Klackatats, Kallapuyas,Tlamaths, and Chilkeelis. 



222 MISSIONARY STATIONS. 



The Blackfeet, though included among the Oregon tribes, properly belong 
to that portion of the Rocky Mountains contiguous to the head waters of 
the Missouri. They make occasional irruptions into the country occupied 
by the Flatheads, Snakes, and Nesperces, and for this reason are included 
in the above list. 

The Tlameths and two or three other inferior tribes in the neighborhood 
of California and north of the Columbia river may be considered trouble- 
some and rather ill-disposed ; but not dangerous, unless it be in cases 
where they have a very decided advantage. 
. The Indians of this country are less warlike than those east of the Rocky 
Mountains, and far less dangerous, even as enemies. They may be con- 
sidered, on the whole, as friendly to the whites, and quite susceptible of 
civilization. They are tolerably industrious, and ready at all times to work 
for the settlers at a trifling compensation. 

Many of them cultivate the ground and raise corn, potatoes, beans, and 
melons, — but fish, horses, and game, as a general thing, furnish their prin- 
cipal food. As an evidence of their quiet disposition, they rarely go to war, 
and are usually found at or near the several places claimed and occupied 
by them individually. 

The Nesperces are, perhaps, farther advanced in civilization than any 
other tribe. Many of them (and some of other tribes) are beginning to 
live after the manner of the whites, and the philanthropic efforts of Chris- 
tian missionaries in their behalf have been attended with great success. 

There are eight of more missionary stations in Oregon, belonging as fol- 
lows : to the Presbyterians, the Methodists, and the Roman Catholics. 

Four of these are situated between the Blue and Cascade Mountains, viz : 
one near the Dalls one at Waiilatpu on the Wallawalla, one at Tshimakain, 
and one at Clear Water. 

The mission at Waiilatpu is under the direction of Dr. Whitman, and 
has a flouring mill and a very considerable farm connected with it, upon 
which large quantities of grain and vegetables are annually raised, and also 
numerous herds of cattle and horses. The station near the Dalls, with 
the exception of a mill, is said to be but little behind that of Waiilatpu in 
point of prosperity. 

The remaining four are in the Western Division. 

The most important of these are situated as follows : one at the Wallam- 
mette Falls, about twenty-five miles below the Columbia, and the other in 
the Wallammette valley, some forty or fifty miles farther south. 

Both of the above belong to the Methodists, and may be considered rich. 

There are two large farms and a store connected with the station in the 
Wallammette valley, and also large herds of cattle, horses, and hogs ; — it is 
said to drive quite a profitable trade with the Indians and settlers in the line 
of dry goods and groceries. 

The station at the Wallammette Falls has also a store, and carries on a 
small business by way of merchandize. 

The two other stations are south and west of the last named, but have, 
as yet, no very extensive improvements in connection with them. 

The Methodists have a press at one of their stations in Oregon, which is 
employed in printing religious books for the benefit of the Indians. 



DIFFERENT SETTLEMENTS. 223 

In addition to the different stations above alluded to, the Catholics have 
several agents and teachers in this territory, who labor with great zeal and 
earnestness to make proselytes to their own peculiar notions. The number 
and locality of these agents I have not the necessary information to state. 
They were, not long since, under the superintendance of one Father De 
Smit, a Jesuit priest, and have exerted considerable influence among the 
Indian tribes. 

Nearly the entire trade of Oregon, at the present time, is in the hands of 
the Hudson Bay Company, from whom dry goods and groceries may be ob- 
tained by the settlers at less than the common price in the United States ; 
this, as a necessary consequence, precludes all opposition. The principal 
exports (raised at the stations or received by way of barter) are flour, fish, 
butter, cheese, lumber, masts, spars, furs, and skins. 

The Forts, or trading establishments, are eighteen in all, and have a large 
number of hands employed about them, in conducting the fur trade and 
laboring upon the farms and in the workshops and mills. 

Each of these posts presents a miniature town by itself, whose busy pop- 
ulace pursue most of the varied avocations incident to the more densely 
inhabited localities of civilized countries. 

We will not occupy the reader's time in an extended description of them 
severally, but rest content by simply giving their names. The first post 
belonging to this company, upon the route to the mouth of the Columbia, is 
Fort Hall ; the next, Fort Wallawalla ; then, Fort Vancouvre, and Fort 
George. 

The others are situated at different points, and are known as follows : 
Colville, Okanagan, Alexandria, Barbine, Klamloops, St. James, Chilcothin, 
Simpson, McLaughlin, Langley, Nisqually, Cawlitz, and Umpqua; of which 
eight are located in or above lat. 49"^ north. 

The principal settlements, disconnected from the trading establishments 
and different missionary stations, at present, are upon the Umpqua and 
Wallammette rivers, on the Fualitine Plains, and near Fort Vancouvre. 
These settlements are represented as being in a very flourishing condition, 
and rapidly increasing in population and wealth. 

At the Wallammette Falls, a town has been regularly laid out' called 
Oregon City, which, in the year 1844, numbered a hundred or more 
houses ; among them was a church, with several stores and mills. 

At this place the temporary legislature, already instituted by the set- 
tlers for mutual benefit in the absence of all other legitimate jurisdiction, 
holds its regular sessions. A mayor was elected in the spring of 1845; 
and recently a printing press and materials have been procured from New 
York for the purpose of publishing the territorial laws, with such other 
documents and papers as the interests of the community may require. 

This embryo city, situated as it is in a place so admirable in regard to 
agriculture, commerce, and manufactures, possesses many superior advan- 
tages in point of locality. 

The falls of the Wallammette are thirty feet perpendicular, and afford 
abundant water privileges for mills and factories, — two important rivers, 
the Klackamus and FuaUtine, find their discharge near it, while below is 
presented an uninterrupted navigation to the Ocean, and above it boats may 



224 KINDNESS OF THE H. B. C03IPANY, 



ascend for a distance of one hundred miles or more. The country con- 
tiofous is unsurpassed in fertiUty, and will undoubtedly soon acquire a 
dense population. 

Another town, called Linnton, has recently been commenced upon the 
south bank of the Columbia, near the mouth of the Wallammette river, and 
bids fair to become of some importance. 

The settlements in the valley above, and at the Fualitine Plains, are scat- 
tered like those of the farming sections of our Western States ; — the 
Bame observation may also be applied in reference to those upon the Ump- 
qua river. 

The settlement at Vancouvre is more compact, and assumes the air of 
a flourishing- village. It is near the falls of the Columbia, at the head of 
ship navigation, and is made the great commercial depot of the Hudson 
Bay Company for the articles required in their trade. 

Connected with the Fort is an extensive flouring mill, and also a saw 
m.ill, which is said to do a very active and lucrative business. 

The number of buildings at Vancouvre is not far from sixty. The site 
is a most admirable one for some future emporium of trade and manufac- 
tures. Its water privileges are almost without hmits, while its other advan- 
tages are equally inviting. 

The geographical condition of the country is such that, as it becomes 
settled, an enormous amount of commercial interest must necessarily con- 
centrate here ; and, doubtless, a more favorable locality for a city could not 
be selected upon the Columbia. It is destined to command almost the 
entire trade of Eastern and Middle Oregon. 

The agents of the Hudson Bay Company at present are of great advan- 
tage to emigrants. They extend to them every reasonable assistance by 
seUing goods and necessaries on .credit at very low prices, and receiving 
their various products in payment upon most favorable terms. They fur- 
nish seed-corn, wheat, potatoes, and other articles of like nature, to the set- 
tlers, to be returned in kind at the end of the year, with a small additional 
amount by w;iy of interest. 

This company is equally accommodating in other respects. It affords 
employment to numbers at a fair compensation, and supplies them with 
cattle, hogs, horses, and implements of agriculture for their farms. Its 
agents and factors seem much disposed to encourage the influx of emi- 
grants, and are never backward in evincing a friendly disposition by their 
acts. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. — Commercial and agricultural advantages 
reviewed.— Rail Road to the Pacific. — Route, mode of travelling, and requisite 
equipments for emigrants. — Importance of Oregon to the United States. — Incident 
in the early history of Fort Hall. — Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright 
spots in their character. — Mild weather. — Leave for the Platte. — Journey to the 
Yampah, and sketch of the intermediate country. — New Park. — Head of Grand 
river. — The landscape. — Different routes to Fort Lancaster. — Old Park. 

Perhaps no country ia possessed of greater manufacturing facilities 
than Oregon. Its numberless w^atercourses, with their frequent falls and 
rapids, upon every side, point out the sites for mills and factories, while 
the adjoining forests and hills produce the timber for their construction, 
and the metal for their machinery ; and the plains and valleys, the food for 
their operatives, and raw materials for their fabrics. The ships of all na- 
tions await as their carriers, and render accessible the best markets of the 
world. 

A large portion of the sterile and otherwise valueless lands of the terri- 
tory might be turned to good account in the growth of wool, and the valleys 
and bottoms would easily yield exhaustless supplies of flax and hemp. The 
southwest displays her cotton fields, and the plains and hiJs hold out their 
rich stores of timber and minerals ; the busy operatives and thrice efTec- 
tive machinery of the flourishing establishments, as yet scarcely hidden 
from view by the thin veil of futurity, would achieve the transformation of 
these varied products into broadcloths, linens, calicoes, and other auxiha- 
ries of comfort and utility ; while California, with the other provinces of 
Mexico, the western Republics of South America, the islands of the Paci- 
fic, the Northwestern Coast, and the numerous Indian tribes of the interior, 
impatient to gaze upon the evidences of creative skill, even now stand their 
willing purchasers. 

With such advantages before her, who might not augur well for the fu- 
ture pre-eminence of Oregon. 

But, in other respects, the prospect is still more flattering. Her exten- 
sive plains, valleys, and bottoms, need no long lapse of time to transform 
them into smiling fields ; her prairies and hills will then become thronged 
with countless herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and the beef, pork, and 
wool of the stock-grower, the butter and cheese of the dairyman, with all 
the surplus of the farmer, will find an inviting market at the populous 
manufacturing towns and commercial cities that will have sprung up close 
around him, nor need he look elsewhere for a more lucrative disposal. 

An interchange of commodities with China, Japan, South America, the 
East Indies, and the Polynesian and Australian islands, will pour ths 
wealth of nations into her lap, and swell the opulence of her citizens. 

A continuous rail-road, from the Mississippi and the great lakes across 
16 



226 EQUIPMENT FOR EMIGRANTS. 

the Rocky Mountains to the falls of the Columbia, (a project quite practi ' 
cable, and even now seriously contemplated,) will open a new channel for 
commerce, and then our merchantmen and whalers, instead of performing 
a dangerous homeward-bound voyage of twelve thousand miles, by doubling 
the southern extremity of Africa, or that of the American continent, will 
discharge their cargoes at the ports of Oregon for a re-shipment to every 
part of the Union, and thus unite their aid in the magic work of up-build- 
ing the Great West. 

It is then that the mighty resources of our national confederacy will be- 
gin more fully to develop themselves, and exhibit to an admiring world the 
giant strides of civilization and improvement, when liberty is their birth- 
right, and freemen are their nursing fathers. It needs no prophetic eye to 
foresee all this, nor the effort of centuries to transform this rough sketch of 
fancy into a more than sober reality. 

The over-land route, from Independence, Mo., to Fort Hall, affords a 
good waggon-road ; but that from Fort Hall to Vancouvre is generally con- 
sidered impassable for other than pack-animals. It is said, however, that 
a new route has recently been discovered, by which waggons may be taken, 
without much dithculty, the entire distance. Should this report prove true, 
tlie emigrant may convey everything needed for his comfort during the 
long journey before him. 

Emigrants should never go in companies exceeding one hundred and 
fifty or two liundred persons. The reason for this is obvious, — they 
will proceed more harmoniously ; there will be less difficulty in obtaining 
food for their animals; less dela3^s en route; a better opportunity for the 
procurement of provisions by hunting, and the number is amply sufficient 
for mutual defence. 

From my own experience and observation, I would advise the use of 
pack-mules or horses altogether, instead of waggons. One pack-horse, 
suitably laden, would convey an ample supply of provisions and other ne- 
cessaries for two individuals, if recruited by occasional levies upon the 
game that, in many cases, throng their course. 

A company thus equiped, can travel with far greater expedition and 
even more comfortably. 

In case of sickness, a litter might easily be constructed for the convey- 
ance of the invalid by affixing to a horse two light poles, some twelve or 
fifteen feet in length, like the shafts of a wagon, the smaller extremities 
being fastened to tlie saddle and the larger ones left to drag upon the ground, 
while two short pieces placed transversely upon them, astern the horse, 
present the framework for a bed in which the sufferer may repose or lie 
at his ease, with as much quiet as the tender object of a mother's care in 
its infantile cradle. 

A company acting upon the above suggestions (numbering say two 
hundred) should employ an efficient pilot, with a commandant and six- 
teen skilful hunters. 

Strict regulations for its government must also be adopted and en- 
forced. Ea^ch individual should be furnished with a good riding horse or a 
mule, a good percussion rifle, (bore thirty or thirty-five balls per lb.,) am- 



IMPORTANCE OF OREGON. 227 

munition sufficient for five hundred rounds, and a butcher-knife, with pis- 
tols and the requisites for procuring fire. 

The company should be divided into messes of six each, and one hunt- 
er and his assistant should be assigned to every two messes. Each mess 
should be provided with three pack-mules, exclusively for the transporta- 
tion of its baggage and provision, and at least one loose animal for extra 
service. 

It should be further furnished with two camp-kettles, a tomahawk, a 
large tin mess-pan, and a tin-cup and plate for each of its number. 

A light tent might also be taken if deemed necessary ; though such an 
article is of little use. A robe and a blanket for bedding, four shirts and a 
single change of clothes are as much baggage as any individual should 
think of taking for his ovun use. By these means his movements will be 
free and unincumbered, while the whole company pursues its way with 
ease and rapidity. 

On reaching his destination the emigrant may procure everything in the 
line of dry goods, groceries, and the implements of husbandry, at less 
prices than in the Slates ; hence the folly of burthening himself with extra 
baggage for a long and tiresome journey. 

The immense importance of Oregon to the United States is doubtless ap- 
parent to every one. The facts upon which this inference is based, may 
be briefly presented as follows : 

First. By the occupation of this country we shall secure to our own 
citizens the best trade of the whole world. 

Second. We shall preclude the dangerous supremacy of foreign powers 
upon our western frontier, and place our relations with the intermediate 
Indian tribes upon a safer and more permanent footing. 

Third. We shall retain to the Union a vast territory, unexcelled in 
climate, rich in soil, and exhaustless in its various resources ; and thus 
lay open for the general welfare new channels for commerce and fresh 
fields for enterprise. 

Fourth. We shall (in the event of the proposed rail road) greatly en- 
hance the prosperity and wealth of the Western States. 

Fifth. We shall prevent the annual sacrifice of an immense amount of 
life and property in the navigation of a dangerous sea, for a distance of 
some twelve thousand miles. 

Sixth. We shall afford to our whalemen and ships engaged in the 
China and East India trade ports for supplies and repairs, and thus save to 
ourselves the yearly amounts now paid to foreign nations. 

Seventh. We stand in actual need of some point upon the coast of the 
Pacific as a rendezvous for our navy. 

There are many other weighty reasons that might be adduced in support 
of this inference, but why should we further review the subject ? A can- 
did perusal of the preceding pages will have suggested them to the read- 
er's mind without greater amplification on our part. 

In conclusion we need only to add, time will usher forth the e^nbryo 
greatness and glory of Oregon ; but whether that greatness shall increase the 
strength, or that glory commingle with the glowing lustre of our Federal 
Union, while she figures as one in the proud family of States, or whethei* 



228 DAUNTLESS REPUBLICANS. 

they, discarded by the fostering hand of maternal care, shall assume the 
energy of a giant's power and shine with the brightness of innate 
effulgence as a distinct nation, depends much upon the prompt and judi- 
cious action of our government upon this momentous subject. 

During our stay at Fort Hall an incident connected with its early histo- 
ry was narrated to me, which, as it tends much to illustrate the bold daring 
and spirit of inbred republicanism possessed by the mass of trappmg parties 
frequenting the mountains, I am tempted to transcribe. 

Soon after this post came into the possession of its present owners, sev- 
eral squads, on returning from their regular hunts, rendezvoused in its vi- 
cinity. According to the custom of the Hudson Bay Company on such 
occasions, the British flag was hoisted in honor of the event. Thereupon 
the proud mountaineers took umbrage, and forthwith sent a deputation to 
solicit of the commandant its removal ; and, in case he should prove un- 
willing to comply, politely requesting that, at .east, the American flag might 
be permitted a place by its side. Both of which propositions were per- 
emptorily refused. 

Another deputation wa? then sent announcing that, unless the British 
flag should be taken down and the stars and stripes raised in its place with- 
in two hours, they would take it down by force, if necessary. To this was 
returned an answer of surly defiance. 

At the expiration of the time named the resolute trappers, mustering en 
masse, appeared before the Fort, under arms, and demanded its immediate 
surrender. >< 

The gates had already been closed, and the summons was anwered by a 
shot from the bastion. Several shots were forthwith exchanged, but without 
much damage upon either side ; the trappers directing their aim principally 
at the British flag, while the garrison, feeling ill-disposed to shoot down 
their own friends in honor of a few yards of parti-colored bunting, elevated 
their pieces and discharged them into the air. 

The result was that the assailants soon forced an entrance, took down 
and tore in pieces the hated flag, and mounted that of their own country in 
its stead, amid deafening huzzas and successive rounds of riflery. 

The commandant and his sub-cronies, retreating to a room, barricaded 
the entrance, when the trappers promptly demanded their surrender upon the 
following terms : 

1st. The American flag shall occupy its proper place hereafter. 

2d. The commandant shall treat his captors to the best liquors in his 
possession. 

3d. Unless the ofl!enders comply with these conditions, the captors will 
consider Fort Hall and its contents as lawful plunder and act accordingly. 

After a short parley the besieged agreed to a capitulation. In compli- 
ance with the second article of the terms, a barrel of whiskey, with sugar 
to match, was rolled into the yard, where the head was knocked out, and 
the short but bloodless campaign ended in wild frolicking, as toast after 
toast was drunk in fancied honor of the American flag, and round after 
round of responsive cheers told who were they that stood ever ready to 
proudly hail it and rally beneath its broad folds. 



THE BLACKFEET. 



At the time of our visit, there were some sixty men connected with this 
establishment. These consisted principally of half-breeds and Canadian 
French, among whom were several who had seen service in the unre- 
lenting war between the whites and Blackfeet that had been so long pros- 
ecuted. Many a thrilling story was narrated in connection with the his- 
tory of this war, none of which more interested me than the following 
explanation of its origin : 

The Blackfeet at first were friendly to the whites, and a very consider- 
able trade in guns and ammunition was carried on with them by the latter. 
Like most savages, they became great admirers of the potency and use of 
gunpowder, and were quite curious to ascertain the process by which it 
could be had independent of the whites. In answer to inquiries, they 
were informed it was the seed of a species of grain, and might be multi- 
plied in like manner to any extent by cultivation. 

Accrediting the story and captivated with the idea of raising their own 
powder, a large quantity was purchased for that purpose, which was care- 
fully planted, in full expectation of an abundant harvest. 

Their disappointment at the result will be readily supposed. Denoun- 
cing the whites as liars and cheats, they were not slow to avow their med- 
itated revenge. 

It needed, however, yet another act of perfidy to work the more perfect 
transformation of friends into foes. This soon after was consummated as 
follows : 

The Blackfeet and Flatheads met, at an appointed place, for the purpose 
of trade and the maintenance of friendly relations, as was their annual 
custom. 

During this conference, the head chiefs of the two nations commenced 
descanting upon the merits and fieetness of their respective horses, which 
resulted in a banter, a bet, and a race. 

The Flatheads, producing two of their fastest chargers, were backed by 
the Blackfeet in a like number ; and, upon the success of the particular 
favorites, not only the honor of the two nations was staked, but a large 
amount of other valuables. The race was run, and, the result proving 
close, both parties claimed the wager. 

Upon this a dispute ensued, and finally the whole matter was referred 
to three white men, by whose decision they agreed to abide. The arbitra- 
tors, through mere personal predilection, instead of pronouncing it a tie, as 
they should have done, awarded the palm to the Flatheads. 

The Blackfeei gave in to the decision and relinquished the stakes, but 
from that day forth avowed themselves the eternal enemies of both whites 
and Flatheads. This occurrence dated the commencement of an unre- 
lenting war of extermination on their part, nor have they permitted any 
suitable opportunity of wreaking their vengence upon the offenders to 
pass unimproved. 

Notwithstanding the bad character generally ascribed to the Blackfeet, 
they possess traits worthy of admiration. As enemies, they make no dis- 
guise of their hostile designs ; and though they have been known to meet 
with parties of whites without coming in colission, and even to smoke 



230 THE MEDICINE SHOT. 



with them ; yet, on such occasions, they have uniformily declared the armis- 
tice a temporary one, and in force only for the time being. 

Instances have been known of trappers penetrating into their villages 
unawares, who received the treatment of guests during their stay, and 
were allowed to depart unmolested upon expressing their wishes to that 
effect. 

The bright spots in the character of these Indians are more fully devel- 
oped in the following example : 

Several years ago, two trappers, in their excursions for beaver, dis- 
covered a Blackfoot engaged in butchering. Thinking the present a favor- 
able opportunity to reduce the number of their enemies, they cautiously 
approached the unsuspecting operator with the design of affording him a 
speedy transition to the Spirit Land. 

Having advanced within gun-shot, they were almost in the very act of 
firing, when a casual glance revealed the dusky forms of savages who 
surrounded them at no great distance, and in such a manner as to preclude 
all possibility of escape ; but as yet, however, the intended victim was 
ignorant of their presence. 

On observing the danger of their situation, they rushed up to him, and, 
seizing his hands, claimed his protection. The excitement of the moment 
having subsided, he replied : — 

" Your lives belong to me, — you might have taken mine ; it must not 
be said that the Blackfoot is ungrateful. Come with me and you are 
safe." 

Upon this he led the way to the village near by, and made them the 
guests of his own family. 

Everything that generous hospitality could devise for comfort and pleas- 
ure, was placed at their disposal. The villagers seemed to vie with each 
other in their attestation of friendship and good will, and repeatedly solicited 
them to remain and join the tribe. 

However, on expressing a wish to leave, they were escorted for some 
distance en route, and left to choose their own course of travel, with the 
parting monition : " We are now friends. — When next we meet it will be 
as enemies !"* 

* The Blackfeet are generally accounted brave, though instances have been 
known of three or four whites defeating a large party of them. On one occasion, 
three trappers fell into an ambuscade of these Indians, and two of them were instantly- 
shot from their horses, but the third was left untouched, and spurring liis animal to 
the height of its speed, broke through the whole throng and was soon out of reach. 

Four mounted Indians immediately started in pursuit, and gained rapidly upon 
him till they came wilhin shooting distance, when the lone trapper turned upon them, 
and with his double-barreled rifle picked off two of their number, and again fled. 

Confident of securing their intended victim, now that they supposed his fire-arms 
were uncharged, the remaining two hurried after him, and in a few moments were 
wthin range of pistol-shot. The trapper then again halted, and the discharge of a 
pistol brought the third to the ground. 

Drawing forth a second from his belt, the work of slaughter would have been com- 
plete, had not the terrified savage, in his turn, fled with the utmost precipitancy. The 
trapper pursued, but was far in the rear when the Blackfoot regained his com- 
rades, and hurriedly exclaimed : 

" Haste, ye ! flee! It was the Bi^ Medicine we pursued, and at his word three 
of our warriors breathe not, and of four I only have escaped ! His single medicine- 



YAMPAH RIVER. 231 

Nov. 20th. Yielding to the solicitations of my comrades demontes, I 
am again journeying for the Platte. During the brief period of our stay at 
Fort Hall, we enjoyed mild and agreeable weather, as a general thing ; 
only one inconsiderable fall of snow having occurred meanwhile, and the 
grass, even yet, in many places, is green and fresh. 

Notwithstanding the lateness of the season, we anticipate but little diffi- 
culty in crossing the mountains, via New Park and Grand river pass, as the 
journey has been performed on several occasions in the dead of winter. 
But, a further stimulant to our hopes is the possession of good mules and 
horses, which are every way competent to the task before them ; my two 
companions are, also, intimately acquainted with the mountains, and well 
Know how to shape our course to advantage. 

For the first few days our progress was rapid and uninterrupted. Fol- 
lowing the regular trail by way of Bjear river, on the 24th we struck 
Black's fork, a considerable tributary of Green river, and one of several in 
its neighborhood, down which we continued to its confluence with the main 
stream ; thence, crossing to the east bank, we kept its general course, some- 
times by its valley, then again by long detours among the hills, owing to 
the rugged nature of the country, and in three days subsequent, reached 
the Yampah, or Little Snake, an affluent from the left. 

The intermediate country from Fort Hall to the Yampah has been par- 
tially noticed in connection with Oregon and California, and for that reason 
it will not be expected of me to waste time in repetition. 

I need only add, that among the hills we noticed much nude sterility, in- 
termingled with frequent clusters of absinthe, aretmisia (or greasewood, as 
it is familliariy called,) and bunch-grass, with occasional groves of pine, 
cedar, and balsam. 

In the valleys the grass was yet green, and indicated the presence of 
winter only by its withered tops. Snow was seen only upon the hills and 
mountains, and even there in no great quantity. Game appeared plentiful 
for most of the distance, particularly black-tailed deer and sheep. 

The section of country hereabouts is inhabited by the Snake Indians, 
from whom the river above referred to derives its name. 

This stream heads in the New Park Mountains, and pursues a south- 
west course for about one hundred miles, recieving in that distance seve- 
ral large tributaries from the east, when it finally discharges itself into 
Green river, near lat. 41^ North. 

Crossing the Yampah, we soon struck the Elk Head, or Little Bear, a 
principal affluent from the right, and continuing our course up its valliey. 
After passing a small ridge, on the 30th Nov. we found ourselves upon the 
head waters of the Platte. 

iron twice spoke the death-word, and at the same time ; then with his pipe-stem he 
bade a third one go to the Spirit Land ; and, as he drew forth his butcher-knife to 
shoot me, I had fled beyond reach, that I might tell you how to escape ! Haste, ye ! 
flee ! It is the Big Medicine that comes from yon ! Flee, lest he kill us all !" 

Following his advice, the astonished savages immediately fled with the greatest 
consternation, fully persuaded it was their only mode of escapmg from certain de- 
struction at the hands of the Big Medicine I 



232 THE NEW PARK. 

Proceeding by the valley of a creek tributary to the above river, the day 
following we came to a considerable branch from the south, and camped 
near its mouth, for the purpose of killing buffalo, of which vast numbers 
thronged the vicinity. 

The valleys of the Yampah and Little Bear were broad, in places, with a 
deep soil of dark, sandy loam, and tolerably well timbered. 

The country contiguous to them was rugged and generally sterile ; the 
soil, with the exception of the creek bottoms, being shallow and sandy, and 
infested with extensive fields of absinthe. 

By the way we passed a fort, formerly occupied by a company of trap- 
pers under the command of Frapp, near which himself and four other 
whites were killed in an engagement with the Sioux some two years since. 
The Indians lost fifteen or twenty of their warriors in killed and wounded, 
but succeeded in driving off eighty head of horses as their booty. 

Among the rocks of the hills I noticed frequent clusters of larb, richly 
laden with its deep red berry,* both tempting to the eye and pleasing to the 
taste. 

On reaching the Platte we were ushered into a large and beautiful circu- 
lar valley, known as the New Park. 

This valley is thirty-five miles in width by thirty in breadth, and is shut 
in upon all sides by lofty mountains, whose summits tower far above the 
snowline and sport their white-caps through each returning year. It is 
wel] watered by numerous streams that trace their course from the neigh- 
boring heights to commingle with the Platte. 

The river makes its exit from this place by a forced passage through nar- 
row defiles, between the Medicine Bow and New Park Mountains, forming 
a canon several miles in length, defined by precipitous walls, varying in 
height from fifty to six hundred feet. 

The New Park valley affords considerable timber of various kinds, and a 
fertile soil, well adapted to cultivation. The superfice is usually a thick 
mould, compounded of clay, sand, and gravel, with decomposed vegetable 
matter ; while the bottoms disclose a rich alluvion of two or three feet 
depth. 

The entire country w^as crowded with game, in countless numbers, both 
of buffalo, elk, and deer. It seemed as though a general ingathering from 
mountain, hill, and plain, had taken place to winter in this chosen spot. 

It is said the great abundance of game first suggested the christening of 
the locality as the New Park. 

We remained in our encampment till the 6th of December, and improved 
the interval in procuring a choice supply of meat, and feasting upon those 
delicious viands which mountaineers so well know how to acquire and dis- 
pose of. 

The day preceding our departure, a fall of snow covered the ground for 

* The larb-berry is of a deep red color, and somewhat larger than the common cur 
rant. It is of a sweet spicy taste, and very pleasant. It grows upon a small ground^ 
vine of evergreen, with a leaf assimilating the winter-clover in shape, ard is found 
only m mountainous regions. 



ROUTE TO BAYOU SALDAE. 233 

several inches, but the lapse of a few hours served to disclose the bare 
vegetation of the valleys, and denuded spots upon the mountain sides. 

Again en route, we continued up a large stream from the south and struck 
into a broad trail, which led through large openings and forests of aspen 
across the main mountain chain, to the waters of Grand river, into a beau- 
tiful valley known as the Old Park, where we remained encamped the two 
days subsequent. 

Our nearest route to Fort Lancaster would have been by Cache a la 
Poudre, or Long's Peak ; but, accumulating snows admonished us to aban- 
don the Atlantic side of the mountains for a more southern latitude. 

The country in the vicinity of the Old Park is highly interesting. It em- 
braces a large tract of fertile territory, well watered and timbered, but more 
or less undulating, and is hemmed in by high mountains, which are clothed 
with lateral forests of pine, cedar, and aspen. 

This valley ranges from east to west ; and, heading at the base of Long's 
Peak, finds its opposite extremity at the canon by which Grand river 
emerges through the opposing barriers of mountain spurs. 

The Old Park also, like the New, receives its appellation from the great 
abundance of game for \vhich it is celebrated. 



CHAPTER XXYIIL 



From Grand river to Bayou Salade. — Observations by the way. — Description of the 
Bayou. — Voracity of magpies. — Journey to Cherry creek. — Country en route. — ■ 
Crystal creek. — Abundance of game. — Antelope hunting. — Remarkable sagacity of 
wolves. — Snow storms and amusement. — Ravens. — Move camp. — Comfortable win- 
ter quarters. — Animal food conducive to general health and longevity. — A laugha- 
ble instance of sound sleeping. — Astonishing wolfme rapacity. — Beaver lodges and 
all about beaver. — Hunting excursion.— Vasque's creek, its valleys, table lands, 
mountains, and prairies. — Camp. — Left alone. — Sensations, and care to avoid dan- 
ger. — A nocturnal visitor. — Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. — A lofty speci- 
men of" gettin down stairs."-- Geological statistics. 

While camped at the Old Park, I improved the opportunity for ranging 
among the adjacent mountains, whose stern recesses disclosed many smil- 
ing beauty-spots. The weather continued pleasant, though somewhat colder 
than usual ; and, notwithstanding the snow in places lay quite deep, it had 
acquired great solidity and compactness. 

On the lOtli of December we were again under way. 

Crossing Grand river and continuing up a southern tributary, through a 
a narrow defile of mountains, to a large valley formed at the junction of 
three principal branches, known us La Bonte's-hole, and choosing the mid- 
dle one, we proceeded to its head, — thence, passing the dividing ridge by a 
well-beaten buffalo trail, to the right of Long's Peak, on the 16th wo 



234 VORACITY OF JMAGPIES. 

reached Bayou Salade, another extensive valley at the head of the South 
Fork of the Platte. Here, selecting a good camping place in a beautiful 
grove of aspen, we remained till the 19th inst. 

This last stage of our journey proved difficult and tedious. Although the 
passing throngs of buffalo had afforded a well-marked trail, our horses fre- 
quently became so mired in snow we were compelled to extricate them by 
main strength, — two or three storms, in the mean time, having increased the 
quantity to an average depth of twelve or fourteen inches. 

The valleys and sunny hill-sides, however, were generally bare, and af- 
forded some agreeable respites to the toil of travelling. 

The prevailing rock appeared to be granite, mica slate, and sandstone. 
The soil of the valleys gave evidence of fertility, as did occasional spots 
upon the hill-sides. 

The streams were most of them skirted with cottonwood, aspen, and box- 
elder, while the hills and mountains presented frequent groves of pine and 
cedar. 

Game, in all the different varieties common to the country, was seen in 
great abundance the entire route. 

Bayou Salade is a valley some thirty-five miles long by fifteen wide, 
bounded upon all sides by lofty mountain chains, with the exception of the 
south, where a broad stretch of high, rugged hills and rolling prairies sepa- 
rates it from the Arkansas. 

The Platte, on emerging from this place, makes its final entrance into the 
grand prairie by a narrow gorge in the mountain chain that extends to a 
distance of several miles. Upon the southeast, the frowning summits of 
Pike's Peak tower to a height of 12,500 feet above the level of the Gulf of 
Mexico, and upon the west the continuous chain of the Green Mountains, 
clothed in eternal snow, point skyward in solemn grandeur. 

The numerous streams that find their sources in the neighborhood are 
well timbered, and present many interesting bottoms of rich alluvial so'l. 

The valley is densely thronged with buffalo, while vast quantities of 
deer, elk, and antelope unite to increase the number and variety of its 
game. 

The weather at this time proved uncomfortably cold. Snow lying upon 
the ground to the depth of several inches, we were necessitated to feed our 
horses upon cottonwood bark during the interim. 

Bayou Salade bears the name of being subject to severe winters, but 
whether correctly or not, I am unable to say. It is undoubtedly well 
adapted to stock-raising, and, were it not for unseasonable frosts, might be 
turned to good account for agricultural purposes. 

The magpies were more troublesome and audacious in their depredations 
hereabouts, than in any place we had yet visited. Two mules, whose 
backs had become sore from continued service under the saddle, were se- 
verely annoyed by these relentless pesecutors, which, despite opposing 
effort, would pierce the skinless flesh with their beaks and feast upon their 
agonizing victims. 

To save the poor sufferers from being devoured alive, we were com- 



CAMP AT CHERRY CREEK. 23S 

pelled to envelope them with thick coverings of buffalo robes, and even then 
the rapacious cormorants could scarcely be prevented from renewing their 
cruel repast. 

Dec. 19th. Again resuming our journey, we continued in a southeast 
direction, over a low ridge of hills, and found ourselves in a very rough 
country, interspersed with frequent valleys w"hich head several well tim- 
bered affluents of the Arkansas ; — thence, passing around the southern 
extremity of a lofty mountain range, we struck Fontaine qui Bouit a few 
miles below the Soda spring. 

Crossing this stream, we travelled north by west, following the moun- 
tain ridge at its base for some forty miles, which brought us to the Platte ; 
— thence, keeping the river bottom, on the 28th we made camp at Cherry 
creek, a short distance above its mouth. 

The interesting and romantic country in the vicinity of Pike's Peak and 
Fontaine qui Bouit has already been described in full, and needs but one 
passing remark in attestation of the mildness of its climate, viz : the 
ground was free from snow, and afforded occasional spots of green grass. 

Near this place we encountered a small hunting party of Arapaho In- 
dians, and obtained from them a choice supply of fresh meat. 

The interval from the Soda spring to the Platte, after passing the high, 
towering and isolated walls of red granitic sandstone to the northward, be- 
trays a mixed character of wildness and beauty. The vast forests of stately 
pines, surmounting the long rolling hills to the right, which are relieved 
as the traveller advances by high table lands and quadrangular-shaped 
eminences that disclose their bare sides, ever and anon graced with lateral 
cedars and dwarf oaks ; and then the heaven-scaling summits ihat, in con- 
tinuous chain, oppose an impregnable wall upon the left, unite to define a 
broad-spread of undulating prairie, some eight or ten miles wide, well wa- 
tered and possessed of a good soil. 

The prevailing rock of this section appeared to be sandstone and lime- 
stone, intermixed with conglomerates of various kinds. 

I noticed two or three small ridges, several miles long, running parallel 
with the mountains at regular distances, in an uninterrupted course, pre- 
senting continued lines of thin strata planted vertically in their sharp 
crests, and reaching to an elevation of thirty or forty feet, that, with broken 
fragments encumbering their sides, looked like the half-fallen wails of some 
ancient fortification. 

Among several affluents of the Platte from the right, we crossed Crys- 
tal creek, a stream which derives its name from the existence af crystal in 
its sandy bed. This creek is tolerably well timbered and possesses a rich 
bottom of variable width, producing at the proper season a luxuriant growth 
of vegetation. 

Our horses being quite enfeebled from the fatigue of travel, we gladly 
availed ourselves of the presence of buffalo to prolong our stay at Cherry 
creek some ten days, and meanwhile found no difficulty in procuring a con- 
tinued feast of good things from the dense herds that thronged the country 
upon every side. 



236 STRATEGY OF WOLVES. 

The severe weather and frequent snows of the past two months, had 
driven these animals from the open prairie into the creek bottoms and 
mountains, whose vicinities were completely blackened with their countless 
thousands. 

The antelope, too, seemed to have congregated from all parts, and cover- 
ed the country in one almost unbroken band. Their numbers exceeded 
any thing of the kind I ever witnessed before or since. We amused our- 
selves at times in shooting them merely for their skins, the latter being su- 
perior to those of deer or even sheep in its nicity of texture and silky soft- 
ness. 

One day, as was my custom, I left camp for the above purpose, and had 
proceeded but a short distance, when, happening upon a large band of ante- 
lope, a discharge from my piece brought down one of its number. 

Before reaching it, however, my supposed victim had rejoined his com- 
panions, and the whole throng were lost to view almost with the speed of 
thought. 

The profuseness of blood that marked its trail through the snow, induced 
me to follow it in expectation of soon obtaining the object of my pursuit ; 
but in vain. 

At length, after travelHng four or five miles, I began to despair of suc- 
cess, and, feeling weary, sat down upon the point of a small hill that com- 
manded a view of the surrounding prairie. While here an unusual stir 
among the wolves attracted my attention, and I amused myself by watch- 
ing their movements. 

Upon a neighboring eminence some fifty or a hundred of these insatiate 
marauders were congregated, as if for consultation. Adjoining this, two 
parallel lines of low hills led out from the river bottom into the prairie, for 
five or six miles, defining a narrow valley, at the extremity of which a 
large band of antelope were quietly grazing. 

The chief topic of the wolfine conference seemed to have particular re- 
ference to this circumstance ; for, in a very short time, the council dis- 
persed, and its members betook to the hills skirting the valley before de- 
scribed, and, stationing themselves upon both lines at regular intervals, 
two of them commenced the attack by leisurely approaching their destined 
prey from opposite directions, in such a manner as to drive the whole band 
between the defile of hungry expectants. This done, the chase began 
without further preliminary. 

Each wolf performed his part by pursuing the terrified antelope till re- 
lieved by his next companion, and he by the succeeding one ; and so on, 
alternately ; taking care to reverse their course at either extremity of the 
defile — again and again to run the death-race, until, exhausted by the inces- 
sant eflTort and crazed with terror, the agile animals, that were wont to bid 
defiance to the swiftest steed, and rival the storm- wind in fleetness, fell 
easy victims to the sagacity of their enemies. 

I watched the operation until several of them yielded their lifeless car- 
cases to appease the appetite of their rapacious pursuers, when I returned 
to camp with far more exalted ideas of the instinctive intelligence of wolves 
(savoring so strongly of reason and calculation) than I had previously en- 
tertained. 



ANIMAL FOOD CONDUCIVE TO GENERAL HEALTH. 237 

Two or three severe snow-storms occurred shortly after our arrival; but 
having constructed commodious shantees in regular mountain style, with 
large fires in front, we were both dry and comfortable. 

These occasions, too, afforded their own amusement. Snugly stowed 
away in bed, with our rifles at hand, whenever a straggling wolf ventured 
within gun-shot, in fond hopes of a deserted camp, he was almost sure to 
fall a victim to his own temerity. 

Bands of five or ten would frequently approach almost to the camp-fire, 
totally unsuspic'ous of danger till the sharp crack of a rifle told the fall of 
some one of their number. 

A swarm of ravens, allured by the carcases of these animals, peopled 
the grove near by. Having devoured the timely feast, still the poor birds 
remained, making the day dismal with their tireless croakings, as if in im- 
portunate supplication for a further boon. 

Three of them soon became quite domesticated, and would approach fear- 
lessly to the very verge of the camp-fire in quest of the oftals of our culi- 
nary department. 

One, however, by far exceeded his two companions in boldness, and 
would venture witlnn a few feet of us at any time. 

So audacious was his conduct, and so insatiate his appetite, his comrades 
took occasion to bestow upon him frequent chastisements; but all to no 
purpose. At length, abandoning all hope of eflecting the desired reforma- 
tion, they set upon the oflending bird, nor relinquished their purpose till 
the life of the luckless gormandizer had expiated the crime of his unraven- 
like conduct, and his executioners were left to enjoy their daily repasts with- 
out the annoyance of his presence. 

Jaji. 16th, 1843. Having received an accession of three men to our 
number, from Fort Lancaster, we removed some six or eight miles further 
(lown the Platte, and camped in a large grove of cottonwood upon the 
light bank. 

At this place it was our daily practice to fell two or three small trees for 
cur horses, as we now considered ourselves fully established in winter 
quarters. Game was plenty, and wood abundant ; nothing, therefore, re- 
mained for us to do but to recruit our horses, eat of the best the prairie af- 
fv)rded, drink of the crystal waters that rolled by our side, and enjoy life in 
tme mountain style; nor did we neglect the opportunity of so doing. In 
fact, had the world been searched over, it would have been hard to find a 
jv)llier set of fellows than we. 

The efibrt of a few hours was sufficient to procure a month's supply of 
the choicest delicacies, nor is it marvellous that, to use a cant phrase of 
the country, we soon became "/a/, ragged, and saucy.'^ 

Perhaps nothing is more conducive to good health than animal food. In 
proof of this I need only to refer to the uniform good health of those sub- 
sisting entirely upon it. 

Sickness of any kind is rarely known to the various Indian tribes con- 
fined exclusively to its use. These people almost invariably live to an ex- 



238 SOUND SLEEPING. 

traordinary age, unless cut off by the ravages of war or some unforeseen 
event. Consumption, dyspepsy, colds, and fevers, are alike strangers to 
them. 

The same observation holds good in regard to the whites who reside in 
this country and subsist in a similar manner. 

I have known confirmed cases both of consumption and dyspepsy 
cured by visiting these regions and submitting exclusively to this mode of 
living. 

For my own part, I felt not the least indisposed during jthe entire 
period of my stay, nor did I even hear of an instance of death from 
natural causes in the mean time, and but rarely of a case of sick- 
ness, however slight. The same also has been repeatedly remarked in 
my hearing by persons who have resided here for ten or twelve years, 
and whose united experience corroborates my own. 

A further fact, relative to the teeth, is worthy of note in connection 
with this subject. These never suffer by decay or aches, when em- 
ployed only in the mastication of flesh ; or, at least, I have never seen or 
heard of an instance of the kind. 

I am, therefore, led to conclude from the foregoing facts, that animal 
food is in every respect the most wholesome and innocent diet which 
can be adopted. 

A person in the enjoyment of good health and a quiet mind, generally 
sleeps sound. In proof that such was the case with our party, I need only 
advert to a circumstance which here occurred. 

Having awoke one moon shiny night, and observing an unusual number 
of wolves in the vicinity of camp, I seized my rifle and shot one of them; 
soon after I improved the opportunity to lay another prostrate, and in a few 
minutes subsequent a third fell in like manner ; all at three several shots. 

A continuation of the sport seemed likely to detract too much from the 
hours of sleep, and so, placing the victims in front of the camp-fire, I ad- 
dressed myself to repose. 

A light snow feU in the interval, and sunrise found us all in bed, patiently 
waiting to see who would have the courage to rise first. At length, one 
man jumped up and turned to renew the fire. On noticing the wolves 
before it he wheeled for his rifle, in his eagerness to secure which he fell 
sprawling at full length. 

" Hello !" says one ; "what's the matter, my boy. Is that are a sample 
of the ups and downs of life ?" 

"Matter?" exclaimed our hero, gathering himself up in double-quick 
time, and rushing for his gun ; " matter enough ! The cursed wolves have 
grown so bold and saucy, that they come to the fire to warm themselves ! 
Only look ! A dozen or more of 'em are there now, in broad day-light ! 
Get up, quick ! and let's kill 'em!" 

Aroused by this extraordinary announcement, the whole posse were in- 
stantly on their feet to repel the audacious invaders ; when, lo ! the cause 
of alarm proved three dead carcases. 

But, where did they come from ? When were they killed ? Who placed 
them there ? These were questions none were able to solve, and in regard 
to which all were profoundly ignorant. Finally, the circumstance occar 



ABOUT BEAVER. 239 



sioned quite an animated discussion, which was soon merged into angry- 
dispute ; and, after amusing myself awhile at their expense, I unravelled 
the mystery, to the surprise of all. 

" Can it be possible !" was the general exclamation, — " can it be possible 
that we should have slept so sound as not to hear the report of a rifle fired 
three times in succession, and under our very ears, at that!" 

" This reminds me," said one, "of dreaming that somebody fired du- 
ring the night. But it seemed so much like other dreams I had forgotten 
it till now." 

" Well," retorted a second, " we are a pretty set of customers to live 
in a dangerous country ! Why, a single Indian might have come into camp 
and killed the whole of us, one after another, with all the ease imaginable !" 

The above incident induced the narration of a circumstance, happening 
to an individual of my acquaintance two or three weeks previous. 

He had been into the mountains after deer, and was on his return to 
the Fort for afresh supply of ammunition, and, having occasion to camp out 
at night, like a genuine mountaineer, he took his saddle for a pillow. 
This, being covered with raw hide, excited the cupidity of a marauding 
wolf. 

The hungry beast felt ill-disposed to let slip an opportunity thus favora- 
ble for appeasing his appetite with a dry morsel, and so, gently drawing it 
from beneath the head of the unconscious sleeper, he bore off his prize 
to devour it at his leisure. 

In the morning our hero awoke minus saddle, and nothing save a num- 
ber of wolf-tracks at his head furnished clue to the mystery of its disap- 
pearance ; and, after spending several hours in fruitless search, neither 
hide or hair of it could be found. 

In the river bank near camp were two lodges of beaver, whose saga- 
cious occupants gave frequent indications of their industrious habits by 
the magnitude of their performances. Several trees, ten or twelve inches 
in diameter, had been freshly felled by them to furnish their families 
with food. 

In such operations they exhibit an instinctive intelligence well-nigh ap- 
proaching to reason. They uniformerly select trees that stand above 
their lodges, in order to avail themselves of the current in conveying their 
timber to the destined place of deposit. 

When a tree is thus chosen, the cautious little animal first carefully 
notices the point towards which its top inclines, and then sets himself to 
work at the opposite side. As his task approaches its completion, he fre- 
quently retires a short distance to observe the direction in which the tree is 
likely to fall, by watching its motions, and renews his labors with great cau- 
tion. Upon the first indication of the finale, like an experienced woodsman, 
he instantly withdraws beyond the reach of danger, and leaves the tottering 
forest-monarch to announce his fallen greatness in the awful crash by 
which he is bespread upon the ground. 

The process of chopping is then performed by severing the trunk into 
blocks, some three feet m length, suitable for transportation, which are 
severally taken to the " slide " and rolled into the stream, by the cunning 



240 HUNTING EXCURSION. 

animal — using his tail as a substitute for hands. As they fall one after 
another, he plunges in and guides them to their destination, where they 
are safely moored for future use. 

The beaver possesses great strength in his tail, which is twelve or fif- 
teen inches long, four broad, and a half inch thick. This part of the ani- 
mal is highly esteemed by trappers, and assimilates a fish in taste, though 
it is far superior to any of the finny tribe. 

His teeth are very sharp, (incisors,) two inches or more in length, per- 
fectly round and of a uniform size, with the exception of the cutting 
extremities, which are gouge-like, about the eighth of an inch in diameter, 
and nearly in the shape of a semicircle. 

Beaver lodges are commonly constructed in holes carefully excavated in 
the banks of streams, in such a manner that the entrances are entirely 
covered by water. It is very rarely they build in any other manner, not- 
withstanding most writers upon this subject assert the contrary. 

The female usually produces two, and sometimes three, at a birth, but 
seldom rears more than one ; — first destroying the least likely, she bestows 
much attention upon her favorite offspring, and nurses it with great tender- 
ness. 

The character and habits of this curious animal, in other respects, have 
probably met the reader's eye through other sources, so that a more ex- 
tended notice under this head would be unnecssary. 

Having procured a fresh supply of ammunition from Fort Lancaster, 
some two weeks succeeding our arrival at this place I visited the moun- 
tains on a hunting excursion, in company with a single voyageur. 

Our course lead up Vasque's creek for fifteen or twenty miles, to a ridge 
of high table land, through which we passed, by a circuitous route, and 
were ushered into a broad and beautiful valley, bounded upon the east by 
the ridge before named, and on the west by a lofty mountain chain. 

Vasque's creek is well timbered, and has a rich bottom, averaging one 
mile in breadth, and is skirted by a slightly undulating prairie, quite pro- 
ductive in various kinds of grasses. 

This creek is from eight to ten yards wide, and affords a body of water 
more than a foot in depth. It heads in the main chain of the moun 
tains, where it claims a valley of considerable extent, enclosed upon al 
sides by lofty ridges that preclude the possibility of approach, except a 
two points marking an Indian pass to the waters of Grand river. 

From thence it winds its way between long defiles of mountains, tha' 
close in abruptly upon its very water's edge, till it finally intersects tht 
valley first spoken of, and forces itself through the high ridge of table land 
into the open prairie. 

Finding an abundance of deer in the vicinity, we struck camp and made 
it our hunting-ground for the time being. Our efforts were very success- 
ful, and seldom a favorable day passed without giving us the skins and 
choice parts of two or more deer. 

Nothing occurred to mar our enjoyment for the first two or three weeks, 
at which time my comrade, having unfortunately broken his gun-lock, was 



MIRACULOUS ESCAPE. 241 

compelled to return to the Fort for repairs. I resolved, however, to remain 
solo, despite his entreaties to the contrary. 

This was the first trial I ever made of hermit-life, and I must confess, 
that after the first sensations of repulsive loneliness had been overcome, I 
felt much attached to it, as subsequent pages will prove. 

Yet there was something so forbidding in the idea of my real situation, I 
seldom reverted to it without experiencing feelings of gloomy apprehen- 
sion. Nor need it be wondered at, removed as I was far away trom friendly 
aid, and in a dangerous country, with a thousand terrific scenes awaiting 
me at every step. 

Still, in a little time I learned to forget all this, and roamed as freely by 
day, and slept as soundly by night, as though surrounded by friends and 
guarded by hosts of armed men. 

But the reader must not infer from these remarks that I had settled down 
in a state of careless security, for I took especial care a all times to avoid 
surprise, by close attention to certain indications which my own observa- 
tion had taught me to regard as the general precursors of danger from a 
savage foe, in order, by a timely movement, to escape a contact so fraught 
with peril. 

For several nights I had a constant visitor in the shape of a prairie-fox, — ■ 
a creature about twice the size of a large red squirrel. He came to ap- 
pease his hunger from the small scraps of esculents that lay scattered 
about camp, — devouring them while seated composedly by the fire. 

My stock of provisions was usually secured, at night, by substituting it 
for a pillow ; but Mr. Reynard soon became so emboldened that he repeat- 
edly took occasion to help himself, even at the risk of sundry cufl^s it was 
my wont to bestow upon him whenever his eagerness led him to deal too 
roughly with my hair. 

Two incidents of perilous adventure occurred during this interval, 
which are perhaps not unworthy of narration. 

One day, having proceeded farther from camp than was my custom with- 
out finding game, towards night I came to the broad escarp of a mountain, 
covered with scattering pine:^, and ascended to its summit in hopes of en- 
countering deer or sheep, as the place gave indications of both. Here I 
stood attlie very verge of a vast precipice, some four or five hundred feet 
high, overlooking a narrow valley, counter-scarped by a rough mountain 
chain, where a large band of elk were quietly grazing. The sight appeared 
so tempting I was unwilling to forego the opportunity of giving them a 
passing shot. 

But how to get at them was the question. To go around the hill would 
require a detour of some six miles, and consume too much time, as the day 
was fast closing. Unless some means could be found enabling me to de- 
scend the wall, it was evident I must abandon my design. 

Accordingly, after a short search, having found a ravine-like pass, worn 
by the rains und falling rock, that apparently led to the valley below, I at- 
tempted a de^-^cent. 

The breakage was steep and narrow, and the loose fragments and dei' 

16 



242 «' GETTIN DOWN STAIRS. 



riius from the crags above, rendered a foot-hold quite insecure. Yet I 
progressed without much difficulty, and began to congratulate myself on 
an anticipated speedy exit from seeming danger, when, coming suddenly to 
an abrupt precipice, of sixty or seventy feet perpendicular descent, and 
paved far around its base with sharp rocks presenting their keen edges 
like so many hatchets set on end, I was thrown all aback at the appalling 
spectacle. 

In vain I tried to retrace my steps. The sides refused to sustain my 
weight, and the yielding surface, to which I clung with a death-like tenacity, 
threatened every moment to plunge me headlong from the frightful steep, 
to be dashed in pieces among the rocks below. 

That moment was an awful one ! Retreat was impossible, — advance 
was certain death, — the time for reflection was fast waning, for every in- 
stant brought me nearer and still nearer to the fatal verge ! 

It was then I bestowed a fleeting thought upon loved and absent friends, 
— one fleeting thought upon a far distant home and all the cherished endear- 
ments of childhood, — and, commending my soul to the Great Author of its 
existence in a brief prayer, I turned to gaze calmly upon the yawning 
jaws of fate that awaited my speedy destruction. 

But here a ray of hope burst from the thick cloud which till now seemed 
just ready to merge the sun of existence into the density of its own dark- 
ness. 

A tall pine grew at the base of the precipice, some fifty yards distant, — 
two narrow shelves of protruding rock, six or seven feet apart, led towards 
the tree, affording a sufficient hold for hands and feet to a person standing 
at full length. 

My decision was instantly formed. Carefully dropping my rifle from the 
steep, by dint of great exertion I gained the shelves, that seemed as if 
made expressly for an occasion like the present ; — then, by moving later- 
ally, inch by inch, along the dizzy side, in a short time I had progressed to 
the tree, whose topmost branch lay just within my reach. Grasping this 
firmly in one hand, and disengaging the other to be used as the emergency 
might require, I threw myself backward among the surrounding boughs, 
and, lodging in safety, was left to descend at leisure the remaining dis- 
tance. 

Once more upon a sure footing, the occurrences of the day had proved a 
sufficient gorge to present ambition ; so, seizing my rifle, (which had luck- 
ily fallen uninjured.) I bade farewell to the unconscious elk and returned 
to camp. There, with early night I found myself transported to the land 
of dreams in the drowsy car of sleep. 

But, instead of wild beasts and prowling savages thirsting for blood, 
such as the danger of my lonely situation would naturally inspire, my 
mind was filled with visions of deep chasms, frightful precipices, and yawn- 
ing steeps, that seemed to meet me at every turn, aflLrding no possible way 
of escape; and thrice glad was I when wakeful morning chased these 
horrid phantoms far away, and revealed to me the welcome reality of 
conscious safety. 

Soon after the adventure above related, another transpired of a somewhat 
similar nature. 



GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. 243 

The rugged mountain chain forming the western boundary of the val- 
ley, afforded numerous black-tailed deer and sheep. The skins of these 
animals being much larger than those of the common deer and antelope, I 
was induced to scour the vicinity, occasionally, in pursuit of them. 

One day, having gone to a considerable distance on this errand, I was 
passing along upon the crest of a sharp peak, of great height and steep 
sides. 

The ridge ranged from northwest to southeast, leaving upon its right 
side a vast spread of smooth snow, encrusting it from summit to base, and 
upon its left, a lateral vallon, entirely bare and graced with frequent spots 
of grass, as yet green and flourishing. 

One of these niches was occupied by a band of wild sheep, which were 
so situated they could not be successfully approached, unless from the op- 
posite side of the peak. Attempting this, I was proceeding slowly along, 
by means of steps implanted in the thick crust with the breech of my 
rifle, and had almost attained the point designed, when, losing foot-hold, I 
fell prostrate, and, after gliding the distance of a full mile, almost with the 
speed of thought, found myself immersed in a huge bank of loose snow, at 
the foot of the mountain. 

It is all nonsense to talk of steam-boats and rail-road cars, in comparison 
with the velocity of such a lofty specimen of " gettin down stairs !" Few 
mortals, I may venture to say, ever got along in the world half so fast as 
did myself in this grand avalanche from the mountain-top. 

The country contiguous to this valley is generally possessed of a very 
good soil, both in the prairies, table lands, and mountains. Bordering upon 
the watercourses, the surface discloses a deep mould of sand and gravel, 
exceedingly fertile, reposed upon a substratum of granite and micaceous 
sandstone ; the prairies presented a mixed superfice of sand, clay, and 
gravel, rather thin and light, and strongly impregnated with various salts, 
— and the table lands, a compound of stiff clay, stone, and gravel, partially 
enriched by the fertilizing properties of vegetable and animal matter and 
the genial auxiharies of disintegrated rock, with now and then a diminu- 
tive spot destitute of grass or herb and whitened by a thin coating of sa- 
line efflorescence. 

The prevailing rock is sandstone, granite, gneiss, limestone, and large 
boulders of the primitive formation. 

The only indication of minerals, so far as my observation extended, was 
that of iron, though doubtless due research would bring to light a rich sup 
ply of other valuabls ores. 



244 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Return to the Fort.— Texan recruiting officer.~New plans.— Volunteer.— The Chance 
Shot, or Special Providence. — Texan camp.— Country contiguous to the Arkansas, 
from Fountaine qui Buuit to the Rio de las Animas.— Things at rendezvous.— A 
glance at the company.— Disposal of force.— Slarch up the de las Animas.— The 
country; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, to the de las Animas.— The latter 
stream; its canon, valley and enchanting scenery. — Tedious egress. — Unparalleled 
suffering from hunger, toil, and cold.— Wolf flesh and buffalo hide. — Painful con- 
sequences of eating cacti. — A feast of mule meat after seven days' starvation. — 
Camp at the Taos trail.— The adjacent country.— Strict guard.— A chase.— The 
meet reward for Treason. 

On the 16th of Feb., my stock of ammunition having failed, I proceeded 
to Fort Lancaster for a fresh supply, where I encountered a Texan recruit- 
ing officer, sporting a Colonel's commission, that bore the signature of 
" Sam Houston," President of the Republic. 

The object of this personage was to raise a company of volunteer rifle- 
men, to act in conjunction with a large force said to be then on its way for 
the invasion of Santa Fe. The main design of the expedition was to annoy 
the Mexican frontier, intercept their trade, and force them, if possible, to 
some terms by which a peace might be secured between the two countries. 

The proposed rifle company was to be vested with discretionary powers, 
and perform the duties of a scouting party to the main army. Each of its 
members was to be regularly enlisted for the term of nine months, — armed 
with a good rifle and pistols, and mounted upon a stout, serviceable horse. 

Great inducements, by w^ay of promises, vv^ere also held out, to secure a 
prompt and ready en]is;tment ; and, in fact, the whole aflair was represented 
in a light so favorable, few possessed of the necessary means for equipping 
themselves refused to enter their names upon the muster-roll, and rally 
beneath the banner of the Lone Star. 

One thing, however, served to awaken in the bosom of each the genuine 
martial spirit, more than all the eloquence of the fluent Colonel ; — this was 
the unfurlment of the identical flag, bullet-pierced and tattered, that had 
stood as the genius of victory at the sanguinary battle of Corpus Christi, in 
the early days of the Texan revolution. 

Who could refuse to respond favorably to a call backed by arguments so 
potent ? — not L 

Soon after Colonel Warfield, for such was the officer's name, set out on 
his return to the scene of intended operations, accompanied by some twelve 
or fifteen men, having named for his rendezvous a point within tlie Mexi- 
can territory, near the confluence of the Rio de las Animas and the waters 
of the Arkansas, Circumstances were such at the time it was incon\(- 
nient for me to leave, and eight or t^ndays intervened before my departure t* 
join the expedition. 



NO FANCY SKETCH. 246 

Meanwhile, it stormed almost incessantly, and the prairies presented 
naught save one vast expanse of gloomy desolation covered with deep and 
trackless snow. 

The distance to be travelled was not far from two hundred miles, through 
a country inhabited only by wild beasts and strolling savages. Yet, no- 
thing daunted by the cheerless aspect of affairs, having completed my ar- 
rangements, I improved the first fair day to launch forth upon the dreary 
waste. 

Relying upon the great abundance of game usually encountered en route, 
I took but a small supply of provisions, as, fully equipped, with rifle, pistols, 
butclier-knife, and other requisites, I mounted my horse, and, solitary and 
alone, commenced the long journey before me. 

Hurrying on as fast as the nature of the case would admit, in the after- 
noon of the second day, an object, several miles in advance, arrested my 
attention. Suspicious of danger, but anxious to know its character and ex- 
tent, I cautiously approached and was gratified to find it, instead of the 
lurking savage my imagination had depicted, a white man, hastening with 
eagerness to greet me. 

He was on foot, and looked way-worn and weary to a deplorable extent. 
His story was soon told. He was the bearer of despatches from the Arkan- 
sas to Colonel Warfield, — and being compelled to abandon his mule by the 
way, on account of the depth of snow, had proceeded thus far on foot, and, 
for the last three days had been without eating, in the tedious performance 
of the duty committed to his trust. 

Hearing this, I invited him to a creek near by, where I immediately 
struck camp, and laid before him my small stock of eatables, with the as- 
surance it was at his disposal. 

The speedy disappearance of the scanty supply, attested the keenness of 
his appetite, and left us both in a state of utter want. 

On learning that Colonel W. had left for the Arkansas several days 
since, and now most probably had reached his destination, my new ac- 
quaintance concluded to retrace his steps and bear me company. 

The next morning we arose breakfastless and resumed our journey, 
trusting to a kind Providence and our rifles to meet the demands of nature. 
But the snow became deeper the farther we advanced, and prospects more 
and more gloomy at every step. 

Not a living creature presented itself to view, nor even the least vestige 
of any thing possessing the breath of life. Before and around lay a vast 
spread of winter-bleached desolation, bounded upon our right by the distant 
mountains, whose towering summits pierced the blue heavens and laughed 
at the clouds and storms below, while in front, and rear, and on our left, the 
curving horizon alone gave limit to vision. 

Still hope bade us advance, although difficulties continued to multiply in 
threefold ratio. The second and third day our progress did not exceed 
twelve miles, and yet we had gone so far retreat or advance seemed alike 
hopeless. 

Starvation stared us in the face, and continued travel through snow, 
ofttimes waist deep, reduced our strength and wasted our spirits. 

On the fourth day, however, the weather having become more favorable, 



246 THE CHANCE SHOT. 

we were enabled to make further headway than the preceding one. We 
also saw a few ravens, but they, as if conscious of our desperate condition, 
cautiously avoided coming within gun-shot ; — a big rabbit likewise showed 
itself in the distance, but, being at tiie top of its speed, disappeared almost 
as soon as seen ; — thus we were again doomed to go supperless to bed and 
feast upon the well-furnished tables of dreams, which, though they please 
the fancy during their continuance, serve only to increase the appetite 
and stimulate its cravings. 

On the morning of the fifth day, as we arose to continue our journey, 
determined to hold out as long as possible, the haggard looks of my com- 
rade excited my compassion, and wishing to cheer him, I observed, 

" Well, what would you think were I to predict for us a good supper to- 
night ]" 

" Really," said he, " I don't know. But there's a poor show for its ful- 
filment, any how." 

" We shall have one, I know it." 

" God send we may. But, pray, where is it to come from. 

" I am quite confident we shall find game. If so, as my rifle bears the 
name of Old Straightener, and it has never been known to fail in a case oi 
emergency, I know she will maintain her ancient honor." 

" What if we don't find game ] Then how." 

" Why, here's my horse. It will be of no service to me if I am to die 
from starvation. In case we find nothing, its carcase shall save our lives." 

'•Horse meat or any thing else wouldn't go bad, just at this time." 

Thus resolved, we continued our way, plodding along in gloomy silence, 
brooding over the sad realities of our deplorable situation, — ever and anon, 
scanning the vacant expanse, in the fast-waning hope of looked-for relief, 
— but as yet looked for in vain. 

The day was fast verging to a close, and I was summoning a sufficien- 
cy of fortitude to submit to the sacrifice of my favorite beast, and rumi- 
nating upon the many difficulties and inconveniences that must result 
from such a step, volving and revolving all the pros and cons the case 
admitted of, when I was roused from my reverie by the shrill voice of my 
comrade, who joyfully exclaimed, 

" Look ! — look ! A buffalo !" — at the same time pointing in the direc- 
tion it appeared. 

I looked, and sure enough a venerable old bull presented himself a few 
hundred yards to the right. 

"Aye, aye, my hearty ! There's a chance for Old Straightener !" said 
I, as, lowering my rifle, I started towards the intended victim. 

" Don't forget," cried my comrade, " that all my hopes of salvation are 
centred in your rifle-ball." 

The animal was feeding quietly, and I was enabled to approach within 
some sixty yards of him, when levelling, I pulled trigger, — but the cap, 
being damp, burst without a discharge. The noise caught the quick ear 
of the buffalo, and caused him to look round ; — however, seeing nothing 
to excite his alarm, he soon resumed an employment more agreeable to 
his taste than needless vigilance. 

Having put fresh powder into the tube, and supplied it with another cap 
I was again raising to take aim, and had brought my piece nearly half, 



NOTICE OF THE ROUTE. 247 

shoulderward, when it unceremoniously discharged itself, burying- its ball 
in the lights of the bufluilo — the very spot I should have selected had it been 
optional with myself. The old fellow staggered a few steps and fell dead! 

My companion coming up, we soon completed the process of butchering, 
and, after furnishing ourselves with an ample supply of choice beef, pro- 
ceeded to a neighboring creek, where, finding a few sticks of drift-wood, a 
fire was quickly kindled, and we ended our fast of five successive days and 
nights with feasting and glad hearts. 

I have always regarded this event as a special Providence, and ever re- 
vert to it with no ordinary feelings of gratitude. Had the ball, thus acci- 
dentally discharged, missed the animal, or had it only wounded him, in all 
human probability, becoming alarmed at the presence of danger, and 
prompted by the instinct common to the species, he would soon have been 
beyond tlie reacli of pursuit, leaving me to the dernier resort of slaughter- 
ing my horse or perishing among the snows and chill blasts of the prairie. 

Enfeebled as we were from continued toil and suffering, we could have 
scarcely held out a day longer, and even the partial relief aflbrded by a 
poor supply of horse flesh, leit, as we would have been, to travel on foot and 
carry our beds, guns, and provisions, must have served only to prolong our 
miseries a brief space, finally to meet the inevitable fate that threatened 
us ! as this solitary buffalo was the only living creature that met our view 
during the entire journey. 

I have never consented to dispose of the rough-looking piece long pre- 
viously christened " Old Straightener," and, when asked the reason, have 
uniformly replied, " It is the only gun I ever saw or heard of that has kill- 
ed game of its own accord ! 

The second day succeeding this occurrence, my companion left me to ob- 
tain his mule, and I completed the remainder of my journey alone, — arriving 
the appointed rendezvous late in the afternoon of the 20th of March. 

The country travelled over, from the Platte to the Arkansas, near the 
mouth of Fontain;^ qui Bouit, has been fully describsd in former pages. 

My route, from the mouth of this stream, followed the Arkansas for some 
forty miles. The landscape, back from the river- bottoms, was quite undu- 
lating, presenting upon the left a superfice of gravel, clay, and sand, mixed 
with vegetable matter ; and, upon the r.ght, a light, sandy soil, somewhat 
sterile and unproductive. 

Many rich spots of a deep bluish loam meet the eye of the traveller, in- 
terspersed with spreads of naked sand, or clay whitened by exuding salts, or 
clothed in dwarhsh grass ; among which numerous clusters of absinthe, 
frequently tive or six feet high, are seen in almost every direction. 

The country, as a general thing, is evidently ill-adapted to other than 
grazing purposes. 

Two broad beds of sand-creeks are passed upon the left, a few miles be- 
low Fontaine qui Bouit, one of which is Black Squirrel creek, and the other 
is known as the Wolf's Den. Upon the right, the Rio San Carlos, Cor- 
nua Virda, Apache, and Huaquetorie, after tracing their serpentine courses 
from the Taos Mountains, commingle with the Arkansas. 

Some six miles below the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit are the ruins of 



248 PRIMARY MOVEMENTS. 



an old fort, occupied several years since by one Capt. Grant as a trading 
post. 

The last of my course, being upon the side of the river, was much im- 
peded by mud ; and, although the surface was generally bare, travelling 
was even more tedious than it had been at any time hitherto. 

After a series of suffering and deprivation so continued and severe, right 
gladly did I Jiail the Lone Star banner upon the opposite shore, as their point 
of present termination. 

Fording the Arkansas about a mile above the Texan encampment, I 
found it nearly swimming deep, with a swift and muddy current over a bed 
of quicksand and gravel. 

My appearance created no little surprise among all present, as they had 
{several clays since numbered me with those who had volunteered with 
great readiness, so far as promises were concerned ; but, when perform- 
AKCES were required, ^^ca?ne up missing.^'' 

I must confess, however, to great disappointment in the diminutive force 
that here met my view, which consisted of only twenty-ibur men, includ- 
ing officers — all told. But several accessions were expected, sufficient to 
swell the number to fifty-five or sixty. A party of eighty volunteers from 
the States were to meet us at the " Crossing " of the Arkansas, on the 
Santa Fe trail, together with a detachment of two hundred and fifty from 
Texas ; and, with these reinforcements, it was confidently asserted we 
would be equal to the combined force of all New Mexico. 

I immediately reported myself to the commanding officer, and was kindly 
welcomed, with the remark, 

" Well, sir, you are just in time. Another day and you would have 
been too late. We move camp to-morrow morning." 

(A pity it was I had not been too late !) 

Withdrawing from the conference, the lapse of a few moments gave me 
an opportunity to look around and see among whom I had fallen. 

It would have been hard to scare up a more motley group of humanity ill 
any place this side of Mexico. Each individual presented a uniform as 
varied as the imagination could depict, though tallying well with the gene- 
ral appearance of the whole company — it was a uniform of rags ! 

Still from beneath the dusky visages, half obscured by beards to which 
the kindly operations of their razors had been for weeks and even months 
a stranger, 1 detected the frank expression indicating the generous- 
hearted mountaineer, and began to feel at home, notwithstanding the fast- 
rising feelings of regret that fortune had thrown me in their way. 

Early in the morning of the following day we were drawn up in line and 
divided into two detachments, — one consisting of ten, and the other of 
fourteen men. The first of these, under the command of Colonel Warfield, 
were to proceed to the Crossing of the Arkansas, and await the arrival 
of the main army, or otherwise act as circumstances suggested, while the 
second, headed by a lieutenant, marched up the Rio de las Animas to 
the Teas trail, to perform the duties of a corps of observation until further 
orders. 

It was my lot to accompany the latter, and we promptly commenced 
movement. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DE LAS ANIMAS. 249 

After riding a few miles we struck the Timpa, a small affluent of ihe 
Arkansas, up which we travelled till the next day about noon, when, coming 
to an Indian trail leading south-southwest to the de las Animas, we follow- 
ed it and reached the latter stream on the 27th of March ; continuing up 
the de las Animas, three days subsequently we arrived at our destination. 

The country passed over at the commencement of our journey, for fifteen 
or twenty miles, was a slightly undulating prairie, of a sandy soil, with 
few indications of productiveness. 

The Timpa is entirely destitute of timber, and its valley, though plen- 
tiful in absinthe, is scarcely superior to the surrounding prairie. Sev- 
eral miles previous to leavmg it, our course lay between two ridges of 
forbidding and sterile hills, nearly destitute of vegetation, and aftbrding 
only now°and then a few scraggy cedars and shrubs. Indeed, but very ht- 
tle good land is found in this vicinity. 

On diverging from the Timpa the trail crossed a high, arid prairie, 
which was furrowed by deep ravines, and ridged by long rolling hills, 
that were occasionally surmounted by cedars and pinions, until it struck 
the de las Animas. 

The watercourses througli this section are rare, and sparsely timber- 
ed, being for the most part shut in by high banks of earth or lofty 
walls of precipitous rock, varying in altitude, and presenting vast chasms, 
passable only at certain points. Their valleys are narrow, but possess 
a fertile soil which is to some extent susceptible of cultivation, while 
many parts of the adjacent prairies might answer for grazing purposes. 

The prevailing rock, so far as my observation extended, was coarse- 
grained granite "and limestone, I noticed at places along the creek val- 
leys occasional spots of calcareous earth ; and, in fact, their soils genenLl- 
ly indicated the presence of calcium in their compound, to no incon- 
siderable extent. 

The valley of the Rio de las Animas was by far the most interesting 
and romantic section of country we had as yet entered upon in the Mexi- 
can, or, as it is now claimed, Texan territory. This stream, in EngUsh, 
bears the name of Purgatory creek ; in French, it is known as the Piquer 
Veau, or Water of SutTering; in Indian, it is called the Wild River, and in 
Spanish, it is christened by the term above used, which means the River 
of Souls. 

It rises in the Taos Mountains by two separate heads, a little south 
of the Spanish Peaks, and emerges from its rugged birth-place into the 
plains, where the two branches trace their way for some litty miles and 
then unite to form one stream. These forks are passably well timbered, and 
are skirted at intervals with rich bottoms ; but the circumjacent country is 
dry, rolling, and generally barren. 

A short distance below their confluence the river cuts its way through 
an expanse of high, barren table lands, for sixty or sixty-five miles, leaving 
abrupt walls of rock and earth on both sides, piled to a varied height of 
from fifty to three or four hundred feet, surmounted by groves of cedar and 
pinion, interspersed with broad pavements of naked rock, nude wastes of 
stift" sun-baked clay, and occasional clusters of coarse grass. 



250 AGONIZING CONDITION. 

These walls are often perpendicular, though they generally accline 
somewhat, and are ornamented with scattering shrubs and cedars, which 
in vain seek to hide the forbidding deformity of nature. 

They frequently intrude to the very water's edge, and pile at their feet 
and in the foaming current huge masses of rock, strown about in all the 
wild disorder of savage scenery; then, expanding at brief intervals, they 

{)icture many sweet, enchanting spots, that smile and bloom in unfading 
oveliness, where angels might recline, and, listening to the chime of their 
own voices, echoed from rock to rock and reverberated with unheard-of 
melody, might fancy themselves in heaven ; then again closing, to open in 
like manner at some favored point, till they finally give place to a broad 
and beautiful valley, from one to three miles in width, of unsurpassed fer- 
tility, and abounding at the proper season in every variety of fruit and 
flower known to the country, which, mingling amid the the scattering cot- 
tonwoods, (free from under-brush and mimicing in their arrangement the 
regularity of art,) seem to portray the fabled fields of Elysian bliss. 

This valley extends from the mouth of the canon to the junction of the de 
las Animas with the Arkansas — a distance of twenty-five or thirty miles ; for 
ten or fifteen of which it is skirted with receding hills, that maintain their 
stern sublimity tiU they at length become swallowed up in the far-spreading 
prairie. 

This is a favorite resort for deer, antelope, and turkey, which are found 
in great numbers, gambolling amid its varied beauties, or winding along its 
narrow defiles and forbidden recesses. 

We entered the canon through a narrow and steep declivity, formed by 
a small stream, which was shut in by continuous cliffs, that increased in 
height as they approached their lofty counterparts immuring the angry 
river. 

After winding a day and a half among the crags and confused masses, 
which constantly intervened to impede our way, in vain searching for an 
egress, we found it impossible to proceed further, and were forced to chmb 
the almost vertical bank, at an ascent of five or six hundred feet, — frequently 
lifting our horses over the rocks by means of ropes attached to their bodies 
and drawn from the impending summit ; — this tedious process occupied 
nearly a day in its completion, and left us upon the lateral table land ex- 
hausted in strength and worn down with fatigue. 

We were eleven days en route, during which time we suffered greatly 
from the severity of the weather, hunger, toil, and watching. 

The air was bleak, the winds cold and piercing, and the sky almost 
continually over-cast with clouds, while two or three snow storms contri- 
buted their mite to swell the catalogue of comfortless hours. 

Our horses, too, had become so exhausted from hard fare and previous 
service, we were necessitated to travel on foot for most of the distance. But 
the grand climax of miseries was experienced through lack of food. 

A scanty supply of buffalo meat, taken with us at the outset, was consumed 
at the next meal, and we were left without one morsel to appease the gnaw- 
ings of appetite for the two days and three nights succeeding. 

A straggling wolf that chance threw in our way, at the expiration of this 



SPY CAMP. 251 



time, most luckily furnished us with a breakfast, though nothing further 
entered our mouths till the morning of the third day from this, when, com- 
ing to the site of a recent Indian encampment, we succeeded in gathering 
a few pieces of dry buffalo hide, that lay scattered about — so hard and tough 
the wolves had tried in vain to gnaw them ; these, after being boiled soma 
twelve or fourteen hours, afforded us a paltry substitute for something bet- 
ter, but of so glutinous a nature it almost cemented the teeth employed in 
its mastication. 

The two days following we were again doomed to go hungry and began 
to talk seriously of the imminent danger of starving to death. 

This interval had brought us into the caiion of de las Aminas, where, 
having struck camp, several of the men sought a temporary respite from 
the torments of hunger by eating roasted cacti ; — the article at tirst tasted 
well, and from the recommendation of the essayists, several were induced 
to partake of it quite heartily. 

But the lapse of a brief hour or two brought with it the " tug of war," 
when the inherent properties of the cacti began to have their elfect upon 
the enervated systems of the participants. 

The painful consequences of this strange diet at first were a weakness 
in the joints, succeeded by a severe trembling and a desire to vomit, accom- 
panied with an almost insufferable pain in the stomach and bowels. 

Three or four of the unfortunate sufferers were in such extreme pain they 
rolled upon the ground for agony, with countenances writhing in every im- 
aginable shape of frightful distortion. 

Hereupon it was decided to sacrifice -one of our animals as a last resort, 
which was promptly done, and we ended our fast of nearly seven days' con- 
tinuance with a feast of mule meat. 

I had heretofore cherished a decided repugnance to this kind of food, but 
am in justice bound to say, it proved botli sweet and tender, and scarcely 
inferior to beef. The supply thus obtained lasted till we came among buf- 
falo, when ample amends were made for previous abstinence. 

The only game encountered during the march was an occasional band of 
antelope or wild horses, whose extreme vigilance and caution set at defi- 
ance all attempts to approach them, and sported at the phrensy of our des- 
perate efforts. 

Our camp, at the termination of this arduous and eventful journey, was 
n a small grove of cottonwood, about eighi hundred yards below the point 
at which the trail, from Bent's Fort to Taos, crosses the right hand fork of 
the de las Animas. 

It was faced on the north by a broad sandy prairie, gently undulating, 
that, at intervals, disclosed a good soil, and led to a distant ridge of pine-clad 
hills ; while from the west, at a distance of some twenty or thirty miles, 
the proud and isolated summits of the Spanish Peaks, or Huaquetories, 
arose to view, and from the southwest, the lofty and noble iierras tentfladas 
that skirt the heads of the Cimarone and Colorado, whose broad tops 
showed themselves in beautiful contrast with the sharp, snow-clad moun- 
tain forming the eastern boundary to the valley of Taos ; then, upon the 



262 REWARD OF TREASON. 

south and east, a steep bank, twenty-five or thirty feet high, shut us from 
the contiguous plain. 

While here, we kept strict and constant guard, in view of anticipated 
movements of the enemy, as, from certain information previously obtained, 
we knew him to be quartered in full force at the nearest settlements. 

Our daily and hourly expectation was to meet a detachment of the Mex- 
ican army, then out for the purpose of reconnoitering ; and, weak as we 
were in point of numbers, we felt quite equal to a hundred such soldiers, 
and were anxious for a trial of arms. 

Our stay was prolonged for three or four weeks, and the abundance of 
choice buifalo meat that continued to grace our larder, with the rank growth 
of fresh grass for the sustenance of our animals, imparted an air of cheer- 
fulness and thrift both to man and beast. 

Nothing occurred worthy of note during the interval, save the following 
incident. One day, late in the afternoon, our sentinels announced the ap- 
pearance of a small party of Mexicans at the crossing, and immediate pre- 
parations were made for an attack. Before these could be completed, how- 
ever, our expected enemy was reported as having raised camp and being 
likely to escape by a precipitate retreat towards the iVrkansas. Six men, 
mounted upon fleet horses, were immediately detached in pursuit, — of whom 
I was one. 

The chase continued for several miles, and terminated in our overhaul- 
ing three persons, — but, instead of Mexicans, two of them were Americans, 
and the other an Englishman, on their way to the United States with two 
pack mules heavily laden with gold and silver. 

On receiving from them information of the disposition and probable 
whereabouts of the Mexican forces, they were permitted to depart unmo- 
lested, — a circumstance not likely to have happened had we been the g;mg 
of " lawless desferadoes,^^ so hideously depicted in several of the public 
prints of the day, as I have since learned. 

An item of the intelligence received through them, gave us mingled sen- 
sations of pain and pleasure. 

An European Spaniard, — who had made one of the Texan army in its 
unfortunate expedition against Santa Fe, in the fall of 1842, and had been 
retained a prisoner of war for a numl)er of months subsequent, having ef- 
fected his escape to the Indian country, — on hearing of the recent move 
ments of the Texans under Col. Warheld, had come and reported himself 
ready again to enlist. 

On the strength of this assurance he was partially admitted to confidence, 
— a thing rarely to be reposed in any one of Spanish extraction. The re- 
sult was, that, after gleaning all tlie information circumstances would ad- 
mit of, he proceeded, ])ost haste to Santa Fe, and laid the whole aiTair before 
Gen. Armijo, the Mexican Governor, in hopes of a handsome reward. 

The old Governor, however, had received more exact intelligence, with 
the names and number of volunteers composing the party under Col. W., 
(furnished him through the medium of certain Americans, base enough in 
principle and sordid enough in motive, to act as his spies, for a paltry bribe 
in the shape of stipulated remissions of tarifl' duties on imported goods, etc.,) 
and treated the traitor to his cause quite cavalierly, — not hesitating to tell 



NATURE OF THE COUNTRY. 5^63 

him he lied, and even accuse him of being a Texan spy — threatening .<? try 
and execute him as such ! 

Were this ever the reward of treason^ how few would be traitors ! 



CHAPTER XXX. 

JVIarch dowTi the Cimarone. — Junction of the two divisions. — Country between the 
de las Animas and the Cimarone. — Perilous descent. — Canon of the Cimarone.—* 
Soil and prevailing rock. — A. fort.— Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. — Beauty of 
rocks. — Cimarone of the plain. — Fruits and game. — Wide-spread desolation. — A 
dreary country. — Summer on the Desert.- -Remarks. — Encounter with Indians. — 
Nature's nobleman. — Wild horses and different modes of catching them. — Failure of 
expected reinforcements. — March into the enemy's country. — Ancient engravings 
upon a rock. — Boy in the wolf's den. — A man lost. — Forced march. — Torment of 
thirst. — Remarks. — The lost found. — Expulsion for cowardice, — its effect. 

Soon after the incident related at the close of the preceding chapter, an 
express arrived from the Col. commandant, with dispatches ordering our 
division to join him at a small creek near the Pilot Buttes, or " Rabbit 
Ears," two noted landmarks situated some forty miles above the Santa Fe 
trail, and nearly equidistant between the Arkansas and Cimarone. 

We accordingly took up our line of march and proceeded nearly due 
south for two days and a half, to the Cimarone ; thence, down the valley of 
the latter, five days' travel to the Santa Fe trail, and thence, west-north- 
west, one day and a half to the place of rendezvous, which we found with- 
out difficulty after a journey of one hundred and seventy miles. 

Between the de las Animas and Cimarone, we crossed a long reach of 
arid prairie, slightly undulating and generally barren, with the exception 
of small fertile spots among the hills, here and there, clothed with rank 
grasses. 

In some parts, the cacti so completely covered the ground that it was 
impossible to step, for miles in succession, without treading upon their 
sharp thorns ; in others, the thick clusters of absinthe monopolized the vi- 
cinity of creeks, nearly to the exclusion of all dissimilar vegetation ; and 
yet in others, though of more brief space, naked sterility refused foot to 
aught save gravel and stiff clay, or sahne efflorescences. 

The water of most of the streams was so highly impregnated with mine- 
ral salts, it was often unfit to drink. The creeks aflTorded very little timber, 
and frequently none at all. 

The section immediately at the base of the high table lands to the right, 
exposed some beautiful spreads of fertile prairie, well watered and suitably 
tinjbered. The soil, as a whole, presented all the prominent character- 
istics of like portions of country previously described. 

The prevailing rock was limestone and sandstone, with various conglo- 
merates, and extensive beds of gypsum. I noticed some very large speci- 



254 VALLEY OF THE CIMARONE. 

mens of mica, of great beauty and transparency, — one, in particular, was 
nearly a foot square, and two inches thick. 

The only indication of minerals coming under my notice, was iron and 
salts; though gold has been found in the immediate vicinity of the Hua- 
quetories, and silver in the neighborhood of the de las Animas, — some very 
rich specimens of the latter ore, said to have been procured in this region 
having met my observation. 

Near the Cimarone the country is very rugged and mountainous. Upon 
the right a lofty expanse of table land, some eight hundred or a thousand 
feet high, leads far off till it becomes lost in the distance ; while, upon the 
left, the more elevated tierras templadas of the Colorado, gently curving 
from south to east, mark the division between the Cimarone and the latter 
stream. 

Every watercourse is immured by canons of craggy rocks that often 
preclude all access to it for many successive miles. The side-hills and 
prairie ridges, to some extent, are clothed with pines, pinion, and cedars ; 
and the creeks, whenever the narrow space of their prison-walls will per- 
mit it, afford beautiful groves of cottonwood and thick clusters of fruit-bear- 
ing shrubs and underbrush. 

Our course for a number of miles, previous to descending to the valley 
of the Cimarone, lay at the base of the table mountain on the right. 

The entrance to this valley was by a narrow buflklo trail, leading down 
a perpendicular wall of clay and rock, sidelong in a shelf-iike path, barely 
wide enough for a single horse or man to advance carefully, as the least 
misstep might plunge him down the abyss to be dashed in pieces upon 
the sharp fragments detached from the overhanging cliffs. 

The wall thus descended was from eight hundred to a thousand feet in 
altitude, and faced by another of equal height at a distance of twenty-tive 
or thirty yards. 

The spectacle was grand and awful beyond description. A rock, that 
broke loose about midway as we descended the pass, fell thundering down 
the frightful steep with a tremendous crash, and made the welkin ring 
as it reverberated along the vast enclosure with almost deafening clamor. 
I have witnessed many romantic and picturesque scenes, but never one 
so magnificently grand, so awe-inspiring in its sublimity, as that faintly 
delineated in the preceding sketch. 

Entering the caiion at this point, after wandering a short distance among 
the huge masses of broken rock thrown h*om its towering sides, the travel- 
ler is ushered into a valley nearly a mile broad, shut in by mural moun- 
tains that rise to a varied height of from eight to fifteen hundred or two 
thousand feet, gradually expanding as he proceeds till it attains a width of 
from two to four miles. 

This valley generally possesses a very rich soil, sometimes of a deep, 
gravelly mould, and almost of vermilion-like color, assimilating the famous 
redlands of Texas, and, in appearance, equally fertile, — then, a dark brown 
loam obtrudes to view, sustaining a dense vegetation of lusty growth, — 
and, yet again, a light sandy superstratum, affording but small indications 
of productiveness ; or dimniutive spreads of stiff' clay, frowning in their 
own nudity ; or barren wastes, of less extent, that, in deep penitence for 



GRANDEUR AND LOVELINESS. 265 

their utter worthlessness, exude their briny tears in unremitting- succession, 
which, as the solar rays strike on them with kind intent to wipe away, 
spread o'er their parent surfaces bleached shrouds of shining salt. 

The latter part of this description, so far as my observation has extended, 
will apply to nearly the entire valley of the Cimarone after it emerges from 
the canon. 

The place at which this romantic valley first attains its full width, is the 
confluence of a small tributary to the main creek, near an isolated sum- 
mit, that protrudes far out from the mountain range and commands the ap- 
proaches from either direction. 

This peak is five or eight hundred feet high, and inaccessible, except 
from the back ground by a gradual acclivity scarcely wide enough for tn'o 
persons to ascend abreast. The top presents a small area of level surface, 
securely defended by an enclosing wall of rock, five or six feet in height, 
raised at its brow evidently by the hand of art. A better position, in a 
military point of view, for a fortification, is rarely found. Fifty men, suit- 
ably provisioned and equipped, might successfully defend it against an army 
of thousands. 

The rocks of this vicinity exhibit a more striking variety of color than 
any I ever before witnessed. Their predominant classification enumerates 
granite, sandstone (generally ferruginous,) limestone, and slate. These 
were disclosed in abrupt escarpments of several hundred feet altitude, or 
in isolated, quadrangular masses with vertical sides, assuming the appear- 
ance of gigantic fortifications, temples and palaces ; — or in a more multi- 
form aspect, now portraying vast walls with narrow basements, that, diver- 
ging from the mountains, intersect the valley at intervals from side to side, 
except, perchance, at a well-formed gateway, — now, towering monuments, 
spires, and pyramids, and again sculptured statues of men and beasts. 

All these magnificent representations are gorgeously decked with parti- 
colored strata lying tier above tier, in regular order, some white, others 
black, blue, brown, green, gray, yellow, red, purple, or orange, and so 
strangely intermingled that they cannot fail to excite the admiration of 
every beholder. 

The Cimarone rises in the range of table lands thirty-five or forty miles 
east-southeast of Taos, and, after following a serpentine course for nearly 
six hundred miles, empties into the Arkansas some distance above Fort 
Gibson. As it emerges from the mountains, (where it is a stream of con- 
iderable depth and a rapid current, confined to a narrow space between 
high clayey banks, with a bed of rock and pebbles.) it expands to a great 
width, and, in a short distance, its waters become brackish and unfit for 
use, till they finally disappear among the quicksands, and leave a dreary 
waste of worse than emptiness, to mark the course of the transient vol- 
umes produced by the melting snows of spring and the annual rains of 
autumn. 

During its course through the Great American Desert, not a tree or 
shrub graces its banks. Its mountain valley, however, is ornamented with 
numerous and beautiful groves of cottonwood, that present among their 
underbrush a profuse abundance of plum, cherry, gooseberry, and cur- 
rant bushes, with grape vines ; while the adjoining hills afibrd oak, pine, 
pinion, and cedar. 



256 HOME OF DESOLATION. 

Here also game abounds in great quantities, including, buflalo, wild 
horses, deer, antelope, elk, and turkeys. 

We frequently encountered four or five hundred head of wild horses in 
a single band, and turkeys showed themselves in every direction. 

The pleasant moonlight nights, that favored our journey through this 
delightful valley, were the source of great success in turkey-hunting, and 
afforded us no small sport. Nearly every large cottonwood tree was occu- 
pied as a roost, and the season as yet had not far enough advanced to 
hide its tenants amid the growing foliage. Each night, as the moon reached 
a suitable position, my practice was to seek out these perching-trees, from 
which I rarely failed to return heavily laden. 

One night myself and companion killed ten of these fowls — some of 
them having an inch thickness of pure fat upon the back. It is unnecesary 
to say that with such abudance, strown so lavishly on every side, the fare 
upon our march adown this thrice-enchanting valley was one continued 
scene of sumptuous entertainment. 

But, loveliness gives place to arid sterility, and verdure to dreary desola- 
tion, as the traveller makes his exit from the mountains. 

Almost the entire expanse, from the Arkansas nearly to the Gulf of 
Mexico, an interval ranging south-southeast, from fifty to two hundred miles 
in width, between longitudes 100'=' and 104*^ west from Greenwich, is said to 
be little else than a vast desert of barrenness, destitute of tree or shrub, 
or spire of grass relieve the aching eye, nor favoring stream with kindly 
flow to quench the fevered thirst. 

The whole country is subject to high winds, that sweep over it at brief 
intervals in maddened fury, bearing in their course immense clouds of 
dust, and engendermg amid the waste landscape a scene of frequent change. 
To-day the wayfarer may find his progress impeded by no inconsiderable 
hills of loose sand, and to-morrow he may pass in the same direction and 
find a level prairie, — a fact not unaptly expressed in the words of the 
Psalmist, " the mountains skipped like rams, and the little kills like 
lambs!" 

Between the Cimarone and the Arkansas, back from the watercourses, 
the prospect is but little better. 

In the vicinity of the former are numerous spreads of rolling sand- 
prairie, if not entirely naked, but scantly clothed with coarse, scattering 
grass, growing upon a surface so loose that a horse or mule will sink to 
his fetlocks at every step in passing over it ; then come broad reaches of 
slightly undulating plains, mantled with sickly, dwarf vegetation, and sus- 
tained by a thin clayey soil, so baked and indurated by the sun as to be- 
come almost impervious to water. 

The snows of spring and the rains of autumn, as before hinted, afTord 
the only moisture ever known to these arid regions. Here dews, alike 
with transient showers, are entire strangers to the summer months, and 
leave the scorching heat of a vertical sun to snatch the fading beauties of 
spring and turn their loveliness into stubble. 

The following lines, written upon the spot, as our little party were about 
to withdraw from this dreary solitude, but poorly portray some of the dis- 
mal realities then presented : 



SUMMER ON THE DESERT. 267 



SUMMER ON THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT. 

Ye dreary plains, that round me lie, 

So parch'd with summer's heat, 
No more ye please my vvand'ring eye, 
Or woo my weary feet. 

Why hath the spring your beauty borne 

Into his hiding place, 
And left tlie widow'd winds to mourn 

The charms they would embrace ? 

Why should those flowers, whose honey'd breath 

With incense tilled the breeze, 
Drooping and wither'd, lie in death. 

And now no longer please ? 

That grassy carpet, green and wide, 

Why turn'd to stubble now ? 
Save 'chance along some streamlet's side, 

Where less'ning waters flow ! 

And why those gently murm'ring rills, 

Whose soft melodious strains 
Were wont to echo 'mong the hills, 

No longer reach the plains ? 

The lark no longer meets the morn, — 

Nor linnet pours his throat, — 
Nor feather'd warbler hails the dawn 

With his sweet, mellow note ; — 

Nor even insect cheers the scene, 

Where Solitude alone. 
In wither'd garb, as Desert Queen, 

Rears her eternal throne ! 

These thirsty plains, with open mouth. 

Implore the gentle shower ; 
But vainly plead, while summer's drouth 

In schorcliing heat doth pour ! 

Nor grateful shade, of spreadmg tree. 

Invites my feet to rest ; 
Nor cooling stream, in melody, 

Attempts my quicken'd zest. 

So dismal all ! why should I stay, 

And sicken by their view ? 
Thrice giadly will I turn away, 

And bid these scenes adieu ! 

17 



268 NATURE'S NOBLEMAN. 



The only inhabitants of this vast region are strolling bands of buflalo 
and wild horses, with wolves, prairie dogs, and a few scattering antelope. 
The only human beings that visit it are Mexican traders and occasional 
war-parties of Pawnee, Apache, Kuyawa, Cumanche, and Arapaho In- 
dians, and they only for the brief interval required in its hurried passage. 

Who, then, so wild as to suppose for a moment that such a country can 
ever become inhabited by civilized man ? — unless the time should literally 
be ushered in, when, to use the language of Scripture, " the desert shall 
bud and blossom as the rose !" 

Late in the afternoon, tow^ards the close of our journey, a little below the 
point at which the Santa Fe trail crosses the Cimarone, we came upon two 
horses that appeared to have recently strayed from some travelling party. 
According to the custom of the country anything encountered in this 
manner is good and lawful prize to the finder, and we forthwith set 
about taking possession. 

One of them, however, a two-year-old colt, proved so unmanageable 
we were obliged to kill it in order to secure the other. Being rather 
scantily supplied with provisions, the fresh-slaughtered animal (fine and 
fat as it was) presented an opportunity too tempting not to be improv- 
ed in replenishing our stock, which induced us to encamp for that 
purpose. 

Soon after a large party of horsemen made their appearance from 
over the neighboring hills, and, having devoted a few minutes to recon- 
noitering, advanced upon us at full charge. In an instant our little 
force was draw'n up in readiness to repel the expected attack. But, 
instead of enemies, the objects of our apprehension proved a squad of 
Arapahos, and they w^ere accordingly allowed to come into camp. 

One of our visitors happened to be the owner of the two horses we 
had found, which, as he stated, (having described them minutely,) had 
strayed from his village, some six miles distant ; he then enquired of us if 
we had seen them. Here was a dilemma ; should we deny the fact, and 
run the risk of being caught in a falsehood ? or should we confess and 
abide the consequences ? Our commandant decided upon the latter course ; 
but, in so doing, had resort to an artful duplicity to bear upon the finer 
feelings of the Indian, and replied : 

" My warriors had suflTered long for lack of food. Three suns had sunk 
behind the mountain, and not one morsel had entered their mouths to give 
them strength for travel. In their distress they enquired of the Great 
Spirit, and He showed them the lost animals of my brother. 

" My warriors were not slow to receive the welcome gift. The flesh of 
the younger one hath caused us to bless the Good Spirit; the other is with 
our own medicine-dogs, that my brother may search for it no longer." 

The owner; on hearing this, looked very sorrwful. The colt had been 
a favorite of his squaw and children. In a moment, however, he arose, 
and, extending his hand to the commandant, exclaimed : 

" My heart is good. My white brother did well to receive the gift of the 
Good Spirit, that his warriors might eat." 

Commandant. But the young medicine-dog of my brother was the be- 



JUNCTION FORxMED. 269 

loved of his wife and little ones. What will he that I give him so they 
sorrow not ? 

Indian. Now, my heart blesses the pale face. If he would bestow his 
gifts, what better could I receive at his hand than a small present of tobac- 
co, that my pipe may be filled to the undying friendship of him and his 
people. 

A few pieces of tobacco were accordingly given, and the good-hearted 
Indian, after shaking hands with each one of our party, took his horse and 
departed to his village. 

Where, let me ask, do we find, in civilized countries an instance of noble 
generosity equal to that of the poor savage ? 

The Arapaho village, as we learned trom our visitors, had been camped 
in the vicinity several days, for the twofold purpose of awaiting the Cuman- 
ches and catching wild horses. This, by the way, reminds me of not hav- 
ing as yet described the manner of performing the latter feat. 

In taking wild horses, two methods are resorted to, alike displaying con- 
siderable tact and ingenuity. Of these the following is the most common : 

A large party of Indians, mounted on their fleetest chargers, having dis- 
covered a band of these animals, carefully approach from the leeward, scat- 
tering themselves to a distance of eight or ten miles along the course their 
intended captives are expected to run. This done, the chase is started at 
a given signal, by the nearest Indian, who is relieved by the next in suc- 
cession, and he by the next, and so on (taking their cue from the strategy 
of wolves in their capture of the antelope) until these proud rangers of the 
prairie, exhausted by their long-continued and vain efibrts to escape, cease 
to assert their native liberty, and fall easy prey to the lasso of their 
pursuers. 

Another plan frequently adopted is, to erect a stout fence from side to 
Bide, between two impassable walls of rock. The unsuspicious band are 
then so started as necessarily to be driven within the enclosure, when their 
ready pursuers, closing in upon the rear, take them without the trouble of 
a long chase. 

Great numbers of wild horses are annually captured by these means, 
which become domesticated in a very short time. But, as a general thing, 
they are less adapted to hard service than those reared in the ordinary 
way, and are far more disposed to re-assert their birthright of freedom 
at the first opportunity that occurs. 

Our visitors communicated the important intelligence that a detachment 
of four hundred Mexicans had passed their village only two days previous, 
on its way to Arkansas ; which statement was further corroborated by cer- 
tain indications noticed in the trail. The enemy was evidently in pursuit 
of us, and, weak as we were numerically, none expressed any other feeling 
tlian that of a willingness to meet him. 

From this camp, our course bore west-northwest for thirty or forty m-^es, 
during which distance we found no water, and sufllered greatly from the 
agonizing efl?ects of thirst. One of our pack-horses, also, took the " stam- 
j)ede,'^ and ran ofi* with his entire load, consisting principally of ammuni- 
tion, and all our eflbrts to retake him proved abortive. 

About noon the succeeding day, we reached our destination, where a 



260 LNTENSE THIRST. 

junction was formed, not with the army we had hoped to find, but with the 
mere liandful who had parted from us a few weeks since at the Arkansas. 

Discouragement and discontent were depicted upon the countenance of 
every one, as the lateness of the season admonished us of the extreme un- 
certainty of the arrival of expected reinforcements. The dreaded approach 
of the Cumanches, those unsparing enemies of the Texans, of whom we 
had received reliable intelligence, far more than the proximity of four 
hundred AJexican troops, gave us just cause for apprehension. A council 
was held forthwith, to decide upon the course proper to be pursued. Pru- 
dence seemed to dictate an abandonment of our present position, — while 
the enemy were looking for us in another quarter, we might steal a march 
upon him in his own country. 

These suggestions gave tone to subsequent movements, and early in the 
morning of the day following we were under way. For ten or liiteen miles, 
our course continued up the dry sand-creek that had marked our place of 
rendezvous, and the ni:^rht following was passed with a few lodges of Ara- 
pahos, who were encamped at a small pool of water near a bluli' bank of 
sandstone. 
^ This rock exhibited many rude engravings upon its smooth side, repre- 
■" senting men, women, and children, dogs, snakes, and lizards, with various 
other devices, — evidently the work of ancient artists in commemoration 
of some remarkable occurrence connected with the former history of the 
country. 

I examined the sketch with deep interest, and felt as if glancing at the 
obscure records of the greatness and glory of some extinct nation, writ- 
ten in a language, like itself, now no longer known. 

Our hunters, having accompanied the Indians to the chase, soon after 
returned with a choice supply of fresh meat, and four wolf pups. The 
latter had been taken by an Indian boy, three or four years old, who 
fearlessly entered the den, during the absence of the dam, and bore away 
her defenceless family in triumph. 

The next day saw us again en route. One of our men, having obtained 
permission of the commanding officer, proceeded a short distance in ad- 
vance of the main party for the purpose of hunting. Not paying strict 
attention to the course proposed, he mistook his way, and, despite our con- 
tinued efforts to set him aright, could no longer be seen or heard of, and 
we were at length reluctantly forced to give him up. 

Continuing up the creek some two days, we found it very difficult to 
procure water, and were often compelled to dig for it in the sand to a depth 
of three or four feet. 

From this point, we bore south-southwest, and after more than a day and 
night's hard travelling, over an arid sand-prairie, favored by neither tree, 
shrub, nor watercourse, we arrived at the head of a small affluent of the 
Cimarone, inducting us to the bewitching scenery of the thrice lovely val- 
ley that lay immured within its giant walls. 

The fatigue of a forced march, combined with the sweltering heat of an 
almost torrid sun by day and scorching winds by night, in acWition to the 



DISCHARGED FOR COWARDICE. 261 

indescribable torments of burning thirst for nearly thirty hours, had ren- 
dered us almost frantic with agony. 

What tongue can tell the sweetness of the draught that first greeted our 
parched lips, at the termination of this painful interval ? What mind can 
conceive the inestimable value of water, until destitution unfolds its real 
merits ? 

Hunger, one may forget in the sweet unconsciousness of sleep, or glut 
his appetite, meanwhile, upon the tasteless feasts of fancy, — but thirst, with- 
ering thirst, can never be forgotten while it continues, — it will burn as it 
to scorch tJie vitals and dry up the heart's blood ! 

Before leaving the sand-creek above alluded to, we passed several dimi- 
nutive bottoms and vallons that assumed an air of fertility. In these, I 
noticed an abundance of the bread-root, and in the creek banks, two or 
three places gave indication of coal. The prevailing rock was sandstone 
and limestone. The country adjacent, with the exception of its being more 
tumulous, is much like the llanos peculiar to this region. 

On striking the Cimarone we contiued our march up its valley for some 
three days, and camped for a short time, to make a cache of our surplus 
baggage for the purpose of travelling with greater expedition. 

The day preceding, however, anorded two incidents worthy of note. 
One was the re-appearance of our lost man, who, having found his way to 
this point, and knowing we must necessarily make it in our line of march, 
had been awaiting us for the past two days. He was hailed as one risen 
from the dead, and welcomed back to our midst. 

But the expulsion of three for cowardice almost immediately followed 
the re-«,ccession of one. Considerable dissatisfaction had existed for some 
time, in reference to our plan of operations. Several of the company had 
openly talked of desertion, and were using their earnest endeavors to per- 
suade others to this course. As we approached the enemy's country, the 
spirit of insubordination showed itself with increased violence. The time 
and place, even, were pitched upon for raising the standard of rebellion 
against all orders and those who gave them. Affairs at length reached a 
crisis that loudly demanded a resort to some prompt measures to restore 
them to their proper equilibrium — an example must be had. 

Accordingly the company was drawn up in line, when the articles sub- 
scribed to by each of its members were read. This done, the commanding 
officer addressed the malecontents in a few brief words, demandmg which 
of those articles he had violated, — if neither, they were equally binding as 
at first ; — then, alluding to the rumors that had reached his ears from various 
sources, he stated his readiness to release any one requesting it from further 
obligation, — but the discharge should be a dishonorable one, — a discharge 
for cowardice! 

'• Yes," said he, " cowardice ! We are on the eve of entering the ene- 
my's country, and the hearts of some doubtless begin to fail them. Texas 
wants no cowards to fight her battles ! None but brave men and true, are 
worthy of that honor ! Now, I repeat it, if any timorous spirit, — any pusil- 
lanimous heart, — any despicable 'poltroon, wishes his discharge, I stand 
ready to give it ; let him step one pace in advance from the ranks and ac 



262 THE PURSUIT. 



knovv-ledge himself a coward ! His name shall be erased from the muster- 
roll." 

At this announcement, three men stepped forwai'd, and their names were 
severally repeated, as they received their discharge, accompanied by the 
cutting words, — " reason — cowardice .'" 

After this the commanding officer again addressed them : " You are now 
dishonorably discharged, and, as sentenced, before high heaven, I pronounce 
you cowards. If eitlier of you considers this sentence unjust, let him shoul- 
der his rifle and choose his own distance. I stand ready to give him any 
satisfaction he may demand in reparation of his wounded honor. But, you 
shall pocket the disgrace. To-night you may stay with us. — to-morrow 
you must and shall leave. 

" And you, my brave comrades, who have chosen to abide by that flag 
which has graced the triumphs of by-gone days, may you never desert it 
in the hour of danger. Look up with hope, and as you gaze upon its 
bright star of lonely grandeur, consider it the harbinger of success, — the 
genius of victory." 

The next morning, the three faint-hearted volunteers accordingly left 
camp, reducing our little number to twenty-one; — a lean force, truly, for 
an expedition so hazardous. Yet none flinched at the thick array of antici- 
pated dangers. All were ready and anxious for the encounter. 

The above summary proceeding completely effected its designed object, 
at least for the present, and reduced the turbulent spirits to the wholesome 
restraints of disc'plinc. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 



Mexican camp. — Pursuit. — Advance upon Mora. — Enemy discovered. — Country be- 
tween the Rio de las Animas and Mora ; its picturesque beauty. — Admirable point 
of observation. — Fortified position. — Battle of the pass ; order of attack, passage of 
tlie river, storming the enemy's camp, and number of killed, wounded and prison- 
ers. — Council of war.— Prisoners released. — Message to Amijo. — Return march. — 
Mexican army. — Attacked, and results of action. — Mexican bravery. — Retreat. — 
Cross tlie Table Mountain. — New species of wild onions. — March down the de las 
Animas. — Discouragements accumulate. — Disband. — Sketch of factions. — Texan 
prisoners. — Arrival of reinforcements. — Battle of the Arroyo : killed, wounded, and 
prisoners. — Retreat of Amijo. — " Stampede."' — Frightful encounter with the Cu- 
raanches and Kuyawas. — Discharge of troops. — Affair with Capt. Cook. — Surren- 
der to U. S. Dragoons, and failure of expedition. — Return to Texas. — Journey to 
the Platte. — Coimtry between the Arkansas and Beaver creek.' — Feasting at camp. — 
Crows' eggs. — Lateness of season. — Snow-storm in June. — An Indian fort. — Serio- 
comico adventure with a wolf. — Indians. — Song of the night-bird. 

From Cache Camp we resumed our march, and, on the fourth day sub- 
sequent, struck the Taos trail at the crossing of the de las Animas ; — 
ihence, continuing up the river about forty miles, we came to a place re- 
cently occupied by a detachment of Mexicans. After a careful examina- 



FORTIFIED POSITION. 263 

tion, we became satisfied that it had been some sixty cavalry, who were 
then doubtless awaiting our advance at no great distance ; and, from ap- 
pearances, not more than three days had elapsed since its evacuauon. 
Feeling ill-disposed to try the patience of our enemy by keeping him in too 
long a suspense, we immediately started in pursuit. 

The route led by a rough pass over a spur of the Teas Mountains 
which heads the iierras ternjMdas southwest of the Cimarone, into a prairie 
ranging from east to west, forty-five or fifty miles long and thirty or more 
broad, and skirting the three principal streams that unite to form the Colo- 
rado. From this point it continued over another spur of the mountain 
chain into a valley some ten miles broad, ranging irom north to south 
and intersected by the trail from Taos to the tSanta Fe road, striking the 
latter near the Waggon Mound,* — thence, for about twenty-five miles, 
across a spread of high prairie, (quite rough and undulating, with frequent 
hills assuming a mountainous character,) to a considerable creek, four or 
five miles southeast of the town of Mora. 

At this point our scouts reported the enemy as occupying a fortified 
camp, which commanded the only feasible pass leading to the adjoining 
Bettlements. Upon the reception of this intelligence v.'e withdrew to a de- 
serted ranche and encamped for the night, in order to obtain, if possible, 
more certain information relative to his position and force. 

The country between the de las Animas and this place, as a general thing, 
gave indications of a good soil, but was quite arid, particularly the prairie 
skirting the head branches of the Colorado. The hills and mountains 
were less sterile than those farther east. They also afforded an abundance 
of timber, consisting of pine, oak, cedar, and pinion. The creek bottoms 
embraced considerable quantities of excellent land, though but sparsely 
timbered. 

The mountains to the right towered majestically to an altitude of ten 
or twelve thousand feet, opposing their snowy crests in stern defiance to 
the heat of a summer's sun. 

Toward the close of our march, the landscape disclosed a scene of ro- 
mantic beauty and grandeur. Mingled among the pleasing diversity of 
mountain, hill, dale, and lawn, xegas and llanos, forests and prairies, here 
and there a small lake mirrored forth its bright waters, swarming with innu- 
merable water-fowl, decorated by broad flowery banks, and shut in by rug- 
ged highlands and rocky clifls, that seemed like some tairy'shome, where 
enchantment held Nature's self in spell-bound admiration. The creeks and 
valleys of this section were also enclosed by abrupt banks, that sometimes 
protruded their precipitous walls to the very water's edge, and then again 
expanded to give place to the grass, fruits, and flowers of mimic Edens. 

The prevailing rock appeared to be gray granite, ferruginous sandstone, 
and limestone. Game was rather scarce, and consisted principally of buf- 
"falo, deer, and bear. 

As a whole, this entire region may be considered as admirably adapted 

* This mound is a singular natural elevation in the form of a covered waggon, 
near the road from the United States to Santa Fe,— about fifty miles south of Taos. 



264 BATTLE OF THE PASS. 

to grazing purposes, and, were it not for its aridity, might be cultivated tc 
a considerable extent. 

The men sent to reconnoitre returned about midnight, but had succeeded 
in obtaining no satisfactory information of the enemy's position, owing to 
the darkness and their ignorance of the topography of the country. How- 
ever, they reported having discovered a point overlooking his camp, from 
which our whole force might watch his movements, screened from his ob- 
servation by a dense thicket of pines, and recommended it for our occupancy 
the ensuing day. Accordingly, in the morning orders were given to that 
effect ; and, after a march of four or five miles, covered by an unbroken 
forest of pine and cedar, we arrived at the place designated, and encamped 
almost within speaking distance of the enemy. 

No point could be more admirably situated for our purpose. The gradual 
acclivity by which we had advanced, studded with pine, hemlock, and pin- 
ion, led to the summit of a high ridge, bounding a broad valley upon its 
opposite side with vast piles of perpendicular rock, several hundred feet in 
altitude. Through this valley a large creek traced its way, graced by oc- 
casional groves of Cottonwood and willow. In one of these, appeared the 
Mexican encampment. 

So matchless was our position, by aid of a spy-glass we could observe 
his every movement without incurring the risk of being ourselves discov- 
ered. 

A mere glance revealed the true state of affairs. The hostile force, con- 
sisting of some sixty strong, completely commanded the only entrance into 
the valley from the east, and was otherwise so advantageously posted as to 
render an immediate attack extremely hazardous. We accordingly awaited 
the cover of night for further operations, and contented ourselves meanwhile 
with watching the unsuspecting foe. 

Our plan was to storm the Mexican camp and force a passage into the 
adjoining town, where we expected to encounter another detachment, and, 
after defeating it, make good our retreat before a sufficient reinforcement 
could be rallied to oppose us. 

Soon after sundown, arrangements being completed, we commenced our 
march. A detour of four or five miles led us to the head of a narrow and 
circuitous defile, marking the entrance to the valley ; winding our way 
through which silently, in a few moments we were in the immediate vicinity 
of the enemy. 

Here dismounting, the company was drawn into line, and the plan of 
attack communicated to each, as follows : three men, mounted upon fleet 
horses, were to dispose of themselves, if possible, in such a manner as to 
prevent an escape, while the remainder, in two divisions, (the one headed 
by the Col. commandant and the ather by the first lieutenant,) commenced 
a sumultaneous attack at different points. Orders were given to scale the 
enemy's breastwork, seize his arms, and demand his surrender, — but not 
to fire a shot, unless in case of resistance or an attempt to escape ; and, 
even then, to avoid all unnecessary effusion of blood. 

Thus disposed, we advanced to the charge ; — but a new difficulty here 
arose. The creek which, from our high point of observation during the 
day , had appeared only a diminutive stream, now presented its broad sur- 



AFFAIR OF THE GAP. 265 



face, with a current of swift and deep water, while a steep bank upon the 
other side showed the enemy at its very verge. Nothing daunted we 
plunged in, and, almost as soon, gained the opposite shore. Ascending the 
bank we attracted the notice of the sentinels, and received the challenge : 
" Quienes veniren ?" — who comes ? 
" Que dijo ?" — what do you say ? 
" Quienes veniren, carraho ?" 

At this a rush was made upon the challengers, who were almost instantly 
disarmed, and our whole party, leaping into camp, gave to the enemy the 
first intimation of its presence. 

" Munchos Tajanos ! " — exclaimed one, as the astonished Mexicans 
snatched their arms. 

" Si, munchos Tajanos. — Quieron los scoupetas !" — was the reply, as 
we sprang to prevent them. 

Here a smart struggle ensued, which resulted in the defeat of the enemy 
with a loss of five killed, four wounded, and eighteen prisoners, — the re- 
mainder having escaped despite our efforts to prevent it, — but all the camp 
equipage fell into our hands, with seventy-two head of horses and mules. 
Among the arms taken were two or three pieces that had belonged to the 
Texan Santa Fe expedition of the fall of '41. 

A council was now held to decide upon the expediency of proceeding 
immediately to the neighboring town. A majority at first were favorable 
to the proposition ; — but some objected, and urged the imprudence of weak- 
ening our force by a division, as we should either be necessitated to do, in 
that event, or relinquish the advantages already gained, — and, further, the 
enemy, being aware of our approach, was doubtless prepared to oppose a 
dangerous resistance, such as would be attended with great risk of life on 
our part, without securing any possible benefit in its result. The latter 
reasons influenced the decision, and orders were accordingly given to with- 
draw from the scene of action. 

In the interim the wounded had been carefully attended to, and, as we 
were about to leave, the prisoners were all set at liberty, with these words : 
" You are now free. Bury your dead, and remember in future how vain 
it is to resist the arms of Texas. Tell Amijo, your General, the Texans 
are men, and not wild beasts. They never kill an unresisting enemy, — 
they never kill a prisoner of war. He has done both, — but let him beware 
how he does it again, for the lives of ten Mexicans shall be the forfeit for 
each otrence." 

All things being arranged for a retrograde movement, we were promptly 
under way upon our return march to the Cimarone. The route led within 
ten or twelve miles of the Wagg(>n Mound, at which pomt a large 
number of dark-looking objects appeared, but so indistinctly we were una- 
ble to detcrinine their nature ; — tliese, as we subsequently learned, were a 
body of Mexican troops, numbering seven hundred and fiity men. 

Continuing our course, about noon we made camp at a gap in the moun- 
tain r dge, facing from the west the head branches of the Colorado. 

The sentinels were cautiously posted, two upon the summit in the rear, 
and two with the horses in front, and express orders given to them not to 
leave their stations until relieved, and to give immediate notice of the ap- 
pearance of any suspicious object. The remainder of the party were sooa 



266 A RETREAT. 

busily occupied, some in preparations for dinner, and others in making 
amends for a night of wakefukiess. 

In fact, each one conducted himself apparently with as little concern as 
though it were impossible that a Mexican could be found this side of the 
halls of Montezuma. Participating in this general feehng of security, 
and anxious to enjoy the relaxations of camp, in a brief intervel the sen- 
tinels deserted their posts and mingled among the loungers. 

This remissness was first noticed by a private, who hurriedly enquired, 
" Where is the guard ?" Scarcely were the words spoken, when another 
exclaimed, " There go our horses !" 

The latter announcement aroused all hands — but only in time to witness 
our whole cavallard under full headway before a small party of Mexican 
cavalry, while at the same instant a brisk fire was opened upon us from the 
rear, and the dusky forms of the enemy appeared both right and left ; thus 
we had the mortification to find our little band surrounded by a superior 
force. 

Orders were given to dislodge the foe, and occupy his position in the 
rear. At the word " chaj-ge,'" our dauntless partizans, with a shout, rushed 
up the steep hill-side and drove the panic-stricken Mexicans before them, 
who fled with the utmost precipitancy in all directions, throwing away their 
blankets, robes, arms, and even clothes, to aid them in their hurried escape. 
So great was their consternation, in less than fifteen minutes not one re- 
mained in sight, either far or near. 

On examining the premises, we found fifteen or twenty saddles, with 
a mule, which they had likewise abandoned, — but only two half-jaded 
animals told the remnants of the noble cavallard of more than eighty head 
that had grazed around us scarcely thirty minutes before ; a thing of itself 
equivalent of a defeat. 

What could twenty-one footmen do in an open prairie opposed by hun- 
dreds of cavalry, able at any time to choose their own place and mode of 
attack? The issue was quite apparent, — we must retreat. In an advan- 
tageous position, surrounded by game, and acquainted with the topography 
of the country, we might hold out against a force of thousands ; but it 
would be presumption to think of either maintaining our present ground 
or advancing upon the foe. 

Preparations were therefore immediately commenced for acting upon 
the only prudent alternative now left. Each man selected for himself a 
blanket, or robe, which, with such other necessaries as he could conveniently 
carry, was bound in the form of a knapsack and strapped to his shoulders ; 
our animals were then heavily laden with provisions, and the remaining 
luggage (consisting of arms taken from the enemy, saddles, robes, blan- 
kets, knives, &c.,) committed to the flames ; the value of property thus 
destroyed, amounted to several thousand dollars. It was a melancholy 
thing to witness this wanton waste ; yet such is the custom of war under 
like circumstances. 

Toward sundown we took up our line of march, each one on foot with 
his shouldered pack, in every appearance illustrating the soldier's return 
"from the war!" 

In the above manner we trudged along, bearing a course due east, till the 
evening of the third day, which brought us to the base of the table moun- 



COMPANY DISBANDED. 



tain at the head of the Cimarone, — having discovered the enemy's scouts 
hovering in the distance on two or three occasions during the interval. 
The day following we crossed the mountain, upon whose summit vt^as a 
beautiful plateau, some ten miles in width and of unknown length. 

The soil gave every evidence of fertility, and was well watered. I 
noticed a number of strawberry vines — the first I had seen in the country, 
as well as a profuse array of floral loveliness. A considerable lake also 
appeared, whose banks were of perpendicular rock measuring a descent 
of fifteen or twenty feet ; while on its shady side a pile of snow bade de- 
fiance to the heat of summer, and looked pleasingly strange amid the sur- 
rounding verdure. 

After a lengthy search, we finally found a place of descent upon the 
opposite side of the mountain, which led us into the valley of the extreme 
left hand fork of the Rio de las Animas. 

The bottom of this stream, as it emerged from the mountains, disclosed 
a soil of extraordinary fertility. Among its indigenous productions I 
noticed a spread of fifty acres or more, so densely covered with onions that 
hundreds of bushels might be gathered in a short time. This plant was 
of a different kind from any I ever before saw. Its color was white, size 
about equal to a pigeon's egg, and appearance much like that of the com- 
mon onion ; but it had flag-shaped stalks, and was much less offensive in 
taste and smell than is natural to this species of roots. 

Continuing down the valley of this creek, we struck the de las Animas 
on the third day subsequent, and on the seventh, arrived at the egress of 
that stream from its frightful canon, nearly opposite Bent's Fort on the 
Arkansas. From this place an express was sent to the latter point to ob- 
tain, if possible, some information relative to the expected reinforcement 
from Texas, and, also, in regard to the movements of the enemy. 

The next day, however, the messenger returned with a report so far 
from encouraging, that it served still more to depress our fast-sinking hopes. 
A general despondency seemed to weigh hke an incubus upon the minds 
of both ofticers and men. Our inability to hold out under existing circum- 
stances was too apparent, as the sphere of operations embraced a circuit 
of five hundred miles or more, over deserts and mountains, that would 
waste us away with fatigue, watchings, hunger and thirst, by long and 
dreary marches to be performed on foot, through a country swarming with 
savage and half-civilized foes. A council v/as accordingly held, which re- 
sulted in the almost unanimous decision to disband. 

Discharges previously made out, bearing date May 24th, were now pre- 
sented to each one, absolving him from all further connection with the 
Texan army, and, on the morning of the 29th inst., our little band separa- 
ted in three parties ; one of these, consisting of four men, left for the can- 
on of the Cimarone ; another, headed by Col. Warfield, started for Texas ; 
and the remainder commenced their return journey toward the Platte 
river. 

The story of the former of these fractions, so far as relates to the diffi- 
culties between Mexico and Texas, is briefly told. Our adventurers bear- 
ing for the Cimarone reached their hoped-for Elysium ; but, soon after, 
having fallen into an ambuscade of one hundred and thirty Mexican troops, 



268 HARD FIGHTING AND REVERSES. 

were taken prisoners, and, in a few days subsequent, found themselves in 
irons and snugly stowed away in the calaboose at Santa Fe ; while there, 
one of them died from bad treatment, and the others would have been shot 
had not the dread of Texan vengeance prevented the deed. Succeeding 
events, however, eiiected their liberation. 

The party accompanying Col. W, fell in with the expected reinforcements 
from Texas, near tiie Crossing of the Arkansas, and again submitted ilself 
to the fortune of war This lorce consisted of one hundred and eiglity vol- 
unteers, under the command ot Col. Snively, an old veteran of the Texas 
revo ution. 

Soon after, a detachment of forty Texans, headed by Col. Warfield, en- 
countered the advance guard of the enemy, numbering one hundred picked 
men. The approach of the latter had been observed from an eminence, 
when the Texans were drawn up under cover of a small sand-bank, near a 
creek, (arroyo,) awaiting to intercept him. Ignorant of the presence of 
danger, the Mexicans were pressing on at a rapid rate, till brought to a 
sudden halt by an opposing force within half rifle-shot. 

"Quienes ?" demanded the Texan officer. 

" Mexican is. Quienes sons u.ste ?" replied the commandante. 

" Tajanos," returned the Texan, through his interpreter. " We have 
come to fight, and shall light unless you surrender. But, that you may 
know with whom you have to deal, we give you thirty minutes to decide 
whether to fight or surrender. If you choose the former, a signal from 
your sword will announce the answer." 

A brief discussion ensued among them upon this summons. The Mexi- 
cans were disposed to surrender, but the Pueblo Indians, of whom fil'ty 
or more were included in tlie party, scornfully refused to accede to any 
such proposition, declaring that they had come to Jight, and not to surrender 
like women upon the hrsi appearance of an inferior enemy. At length, 
a chief ended the dispute by advancing to the front line and giving the pre- 
scribed signal. 

The onset of the Texans was terrific beyond description. The enemy's 
line was instantly broken, and the cry of " misericordia '." (mercy) sounded 
upon all sides. The conflict lasted scarcely five minutes ; but, though 
short, it was decisive and bloody. 

Twenty-two of the enemy were killed, thirty wounded, and the remain- 
der taken prisoners, with the exception of one who succeeded in affect- 
ing his escape. Not a Texan was hurt. 

General Ainijo, who at this time lay encamped at the Cimarone, forty 
or fifty miles distant, with an army of seven hundred Mexicans, on 
receiving intelligence of the defeat of the flower of his invinciblesy 
like other examples equally illustrious, felt his courage "ooze out at 
his fingers' ends," and, not being disposed to encounter such dangerous 
enemies, ordered an immediate retreat and fell back on Santa Fe. 

Col. Snively was on the point of marching in pursuit, when an incident 
occurred which altered ihe whole aspect of affairs, and finally frustrated 
all the purposes of the expedition. This was effected by a war-party of 
eighty Kuyawa and Cumanche Indians, who succeeded in stampeding a 
large band of the army horses. 



ARMY SURRENDERED TO U. S. DRAGOOxNS. 269 

They were followed by eleven men under the command of Col. War- 
field, and, after a running fight of two or three miles, an action was 
brought about. As they halted. Col. W. ordered his men to dismount 
and t^orm a breastwork with their horses, which was promptly done ; — 
meanwliile the Indians, numbering sixty or more, had closed around, 
with whoops and yells, and other demonstrations of their expected 
triumph. 

A discharge from the Texans brought four of their warriors to the 
ground, and wounded six more. This broadside was returned through a 
shower of arrows, and repeated by the intrepid eleven in a pistol-round, 
when three more of the assailants fell, and twice that number felt the 
effects of an unerring aim. Hereupon the Indians hastily retreated with 
their w^ounded, leaving seven of their number to grace the scene of ac- 
tion. Not one of the Texans was injured, and only one of their horses 
killed and three wounded. Farther pursuit, however, was abandoned, 
and the captive horses were left to honor the service of their new masters. 

A loss so inopportune caused the postponement of further operations 
for the present, and, in connection with other ditRculties, created so much 
discontent in the minds of some, that one entire company declared its in- 
tention of returning to Texas, and requested its immediate discharge. An 
emergency of this kind, not having been provided for in the terms of en- 
listment, left the commanding officer no other alternative than to accede 
to a measure he had no power to prevent, and the demands of the disaf- 
fected were accordingly complied with. 

The army was thus reduced to eighty effective men, which made it 
necessary to release the prisoners as yet retained in custody. These 
during their detention had been treated with great kindness, and their 
wounded carefully attended to by the company's surgeon ; on their re- 
lease twelve horses were allowed for their conveyance, while the other 
prisoners were furnished with four rifles and a quantity of ammunition, two 
running horses, and enough provisions to serve for several days. Thus 
provided, they were set at liberty with the pithy message : "Bid your 
countrymen learn, from this example, how to treat prisoners of war !" 

Soon after the events above related, the army took up a position on the 
Arkansas river, a few miles below the Santa Fe road, for the purpose of 
procuring a supply of provisions from the vast quantities of buffalo afford- 
ed by that vicinity. While encamped here, hunting parties were al- 
lowed to cross into the United States territory in quest of game, — not in 
a national capacity, but as mere private individuals. 

On one of these occasions the hunters were discovered and pursued by 
two companies of United States Dragoons, under Capt. Cook, on their 
way to escort the Santa Fe traders as far as the Crossing of the Arkansas. 

The chase was continued to the river bank opposite the Texan camp, 
when a conference was requested, and the commanding officers of both 
armies met, as was supposed, for an interchange of mutual civihties ; but 
such proved not to be the case. 

Captain Cook, on the part of the Americans, contended that the 
Texans had invaded the United States territory, and that they even now 
occupied a position within its limits ; — his duty was plain. He must de- 



270 COUNTRY FROM THE ARKANSAS TO BEAVER. 

rnand, and, if necessary, enforce their immediate surrender. Thirty mi- 
nutes only would be allowed for a decision. 

Cols. Snively and Warfield urged many arguments to prove the injustice 
of his demand and the fallacy of the premises upon which it was based, but 
all to no purpose. The Captain was inflexible. 

Meanwhile, tlie Amer.can troops had crossed the river, and were drawn 
lip in front of the Texans ready for action. It was vain for a force of 
eighty men to attempt holding out against one hundred and sixty United 
States Dragoons, backed by two field-pieces. Retreat, too, was impracti- 
cable, and they accordingly surrendered their arms, upon Texan territory, 
in compliance with the unjust demands of the American commander. 

Forty of the prisoners were escorted to Fort Leavenworth, and the re- 
mainder set at liberty, and left with only twelve rifles to fight their way back 
to Texs, through the heart of the Cumanche country. They had, how- 
ever, previously managed to secrete a quantity of arms and ammunition, 
and, in a few minutes subsequent to their release, were fully equipped and 
ready to meet a Mexican force of eight times their number. 

Col. Warfield was elected commander of the newly organized company, 
who immediately set out in quest of the enemy. 

But here a new obstacle presented itself; — the whole country was swarm- 
ing with Cumanche and Kuyawa Indians ; so much so that a further pro- 
secution of the campaign must inevitably prove most disastrous. This 
circumstance led to the abandonment of the purposes of the expedition, and 
the scanty remnants of the army engaged in it took up their line of march 
for Texas, where they arrived during the month of July following, wasted 
by toil and suffering, as well as by repeated conflicts with a relentless 
savage foe. 

Thus ended the second attempt to subjugate the province of Santa Fe to 
the government of the new-born Republic of Texas. 

A few days preceding this grand finale, a small party, including myself, 
commenced its journey to the mountains adjoining the head waters of the 
Platte river. We were all on foot, and suffered greatly Irom fatigue and 
thirst during our dreary march over the plains of burning sand and withered 
stubble that impeded our progress for some distance. 

Crossing the Arkansas at a point several miles below Bent's Fort, we 
proceeded up one of the numerous dry creeks finding their discharge into 
that stream from the north, and, on the fifth day subsequent, arrived at a 
grove of Cottonwood, upon a watercourse near the eastern extremity of 
the " Divide," and in the immediate vicinity of several tributaries of both 
the Platte and Kansas rivers. Here the abundance of buffalo induced four 
of us to remain for a short time, while the others continued their course. 

The intermediate country from the Arkansas to this place, presents an 
uninviting aspect, and, though not naturally sterile, is rendered repulsive 
from its extreme aridity. The creeks are most of them mere beds of sand, 
entirely destitute of water, except at brief intervals when their percolated 
currents are shown in brackish pools, soon again to inhume themselves in 
the willing earth. 

There is rarely a tree in the whole distance, which circumstance adds 



COMICAL ADVENTURE. 271 

much to the cheerlessness of its solitude. A general scarcity of rock ale-(» 
prevails, and the only specimens I noticed were exhibited in the banks of 
watercourses, and consisted of slate and fossiliferous limestone (formed of 
an extinct species of shell-fish, principally bivalves.) The soil in many 
places might be called fertile, and, were it not for lack of moisture, could 
be turned to good account for agricultural purposes. 

The landscape is generally undulating, disclosing at the north and north- 
east broken ridges of hills, which were now and then surmounted by scat- 
tering pines. 

The bufTalo having left the vicinity soon after our arrival, we again 
moved camp eight or ten miles, to Beaver creek, an affluent of the 
Platte, where we remained for fifteen or twenty days. 

Our stay at this place was one continued series of feasting, as we lacked 
nothing of all the varied delicacies procurable in a country abounding witli 
game. But one item in our entertainment was indeed a novelty, — viz . 
crows' eggs. Almost every tree and bush, skirting the creek at intervals 
for miles°above and below, had been appropriated to the use of the countless 
swarms of crows that populated the surrounding prairie. Sometimes four 
or five nests of these birds might be seen upon a single tree. On two or 
three occasions I obtained from six to ten dozen of eggs in the course of 
an hour. These, whether boiled, roasted, or fried, were found quite an ac- 
ceptable addition to our bill of daily fare. 

The climate of this region is evidently less mild, and its warm season 
much shorter, than is common to other places in the same latitude. 

It was now the middle of June, and yet the wild fruits, currants, cherries, 
and plums, were only in blossom, and all other kinds of vegetation assunfied 
the appearance of recent spring. Indeed, the day succeeding our arrival, 
snow fell to a depth of three or four inches, and remained upon the ground 
for several hours. Whether such occurrences are common, I have not the 
necessary information to decide. 

In our excursions after game, the remains of an Indian fort had been 
discovered in a small grove, a short distance below camp, which received 
the honor of our subsequent occupancy. A few hours devoted to repairs 
rendered it a complete shelter from either wmd or rain ; and, still farther 
to enhance its conveniences, we succeeded in digging a small well adjoin- 
ing the entrance, thus securing a most welcome supply of cool water. 
Here revelling in the midst, of plenty, with nothing to think of or care for 
but our own personal comforts, we had no mind to exchange our situation 
for the fatigues of war and the drudgery of camp-duty. 

Several incidents also occurred in the interim to enliven the scene and 
relieve its otherwise dull monotony. On one occasion a strolling wolf, 
venturing too near camp, received the contents of my rifle and instantly 
fell. Supposing the shot to be a fatal one, I advanced and seized him by 
the tail with the design of taking his skin. 

But the creature, having been only stunned by a neck wound, now re- 
vived in full strength, and, enraged at his rough treatment, called into ex- 
ercise the utmost^iension of his energies to afford a bitter sample of the 
fierceness of wolfine vengeance. Here was a quandary— to relinquish 



272 THE NOCTURNAL WARBLER. 

the hold would have been to invite a doubtful collision — to allow him an 
instint's time for turning upon me, must have proved equally perilous; — 
the only resource was to retain my grasp with twofold energy, and run 
backwards as fast as possible, which 1 did, pulling the struggling beast 
after me, — now twisting this way, now that way, in vain effort to attack, 
—and growling and snapping his teeth with all the ferocity of his sav- 
age nature. 

What would have been the result of this strange adventure, it is hard to 
tell, were it not that one of my camp-mates hastened to the rescue, and 
with a club despatched his wolfship At any rate I had no curiosity to 
submit the question to a further test. 

With us the practice of early rising was remembered only as the whim 
of visionary theorists, and this important item in the routine of daily du- 
ties, was often postponed to an unreasonable hour. Once we came very 
near paying dearly for the indulgence. The sun had told more than two 
hours of his daily round, and only one of our number had doffed the drow- 
siness of sleep and betaken himself to an eminence to scan the surround- 
ing solitude. Hare the first object that met his gaze was a war-party of 
mounted savages, advancing upon him at full charge. 

He had scarcely time to reach camp and give the alarm, when the whole 
troop came pouring in upon all sides with the rapidity of a torrent, making 
the air resound with their terrific yells. Seizing my arms I was the first 
to meet the assailants, and, levelling at them, made signs that an advance 
would be at their peril. Upon this they recoiled, and shouted at the top 
of their voices, '' Amigos ! Arapahos .'" accompanied with the signs of 
friendship and their nation. 

Satisfied of the truth of theso declarations, we permitted them to come . 
up, and, in a few minutes, all were quietly seated, and the "pipe" per- 
forming its tireless rounds. 

Our boldness in daring to offer a resistance greatly excited their sur- 
prise, and the more so, as we had only four rifles, while they had many 
arrows, and were more than ten times our number. An old chief, after 
listening to their remarks, replied : 

" My people must not deceive themselves. The pale faces are brave 
and kill their enemies a long way off. Those " said he, pointing to a 
brace of pistols, " would have laid many of my warriors low, after the 
medicine-irons had spoken their death-words. The Great Spirit has taught 
the pale-face how to fijcht." 

Our visitors had at first supposed us a war-party of Pawnees, and came 
with the full design of securing a scalp-dance. Had they caught us nap- 
ping, without doubt our own l.ves would have been substituted for those 
of their enemies. 

In a few hours the motley crew again resumed their course, and left us 
to the undisturbed enjoyment of our sequestered retreat, thankful indeed 
to be free from their presence. 

In addition to the howling of wild beasts and the hooting of prairie-owla 
by night, the locality afforded other music to sooth the hours of slumber. 
A bird of unknown species had built her nest in the boughs of a cotton- 



LOST. 273 



wood that expanded directly over our heads, and devoted her maternal care 
to the sustenance of her fledgelings. But her unwearied industry by day 
loss commanded our admiration than the sweet melody of her nocturnal 
warblings. 

Soon as the " pointers " told the " noon of night," her song commenced 
in all its variations, like the soft breathings of an angel's lute, nor ceased 
till the gray of morning broke from the empurpled east. Often have I 
listened half dreamingly to the bewitching notes that mingled with the 
harsh discord of the wilderness around me, and fancied myself guarded by 
celestial spirits against the assaults of harm. 

With such kindly thoughts, who might not mount in his slumbers on 
the wings of imagination, and step from star, as 'mid the changeless realms 
of bliss. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 



Lost. — Night on the Prairie. — Head of the Kansas river. — Minerals. — Country. — 
Gold. — Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. — Indians. — Join the Arapa- 
hos. — Moving village. — Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. — Caiion. — 
Reach Fort Lancaster. — Fortune bettered.. — News from the States. — Murder. — Ex- 
traordinary instances of human tenacity to life. — Arrival of Indians. — Tlieft. — 
Chyenne outrage.— Return of Oregon emigrants.—*' Old Bob," and his adventures.— 
A " Protracted Meeting," or Indian Medicine-making. — Indian oath. — Jaunt to the 
mountains. — Mountain sceneiy.— Camp on Thompson's creek. — Wild fruits. — Con- 
centration of valleys. — Romantic view. — A gem in the mountains. — Grand river 
pass. — Salt lakes. — Astonishing scope of vision. — The black-tailed deer. — Peculi- 
arity in horses. — Remarkable natural fortification. — Return. — Travelling by guess. 

One day, on leaving camp in quest of game, I carelessly travelled till 
near sundown, without success. The hills, hollows, and ravines which 
intersected my way and continually changed its bearings, so completely 
bewildered me, that, as night shut down upon the cheerless expanse, I 
found myself far away from any suitable camping-place, and aloire amid 
the realms of loneliness. Thus conditioned, I was forced to submit to 
circumstances, and accordingly accepted of such lodgings as nature af- 
forded. 

My Icinely and dangerous situation, with the thrilling sensations expe- 
rienced during the interval, gave birth to the following lines, which, by aid 
of a rude pencil formed from a bullet, were next morning traced upon a 
small scrap of paper. I submit them to the reader, not that they possess 
any intrinsic merit, but because they will enable him to derive some faint 
idea of the terrific wildness and beauty of the surrounding scenes. 

18 



274 NIGHT ON THE PRAIRIE. 



NIGHT ON THE PRAIRIE. 

I. 

The sable garb of darkness clothes the land, 
And twilight's sickly hue bids day farewell ; 

The prairie's vast expanse on either hand 
Marks solitude's domain. O'er hill and dell, 

And wide-extended plain, I cast my eyes, 
To view, perchance, some grove or fav'ring stream, 
And hie me thitherward while yet the gleam 

Of day's fast-failing hght bepaints the skies 

With tints scarce seen, — tor there I'd seek repose, — 

But for them look in vain ; so here, alone. 
Wearied and worn, I sit me down and close 

My tiresome wanderings, — nor bate to own 
The chilling thrill of terror o'er me creeps. 
And from my mind all thoughts of slumber keeps ! 

II. 

Oh, Solitude ! Fh-st-born of Night ! 'Tis here 

Thy reign is undisputed ! Here no noise 
Of human feet doth greet thy list'iiing ear, — 

Save chance as mine, or savage want enjoys 
His arms at chase or rage at bloody war !~ 

Here haunts the beast of prey. The starved wolf's howl 

In ceaseless concert swells ! The midnight owl 
Joins in his dolesome lay ; — the raven's caw 

Loud mingles with the panther's yell, — and then 
The hoarse-toned bison grunts his bass, and makes 

Thy dismal realm more drear to lonely men. 
iEolus here his fresh-form'd wind awakes, 

And marks its speed unchecked ; whose whistling moan 

O'er thy domain makes loneliness more lone ! 

III. 

My thoughts, now kindred. to the scene, arise 
In hurried flight, whose hideous aspects wake, 

Full quick, imagination's sleepless eyes. 

That conjure up such frightful forms as shake 

The boldest hearts with dread. In every herb 

Of prouder growth, — whose prongs the sweeping blast 
Hath taught to move, — some foe of savage cast 

Appears and threatens ill, as if to curb 

The onward progress of the god of sleep : — 

(For here man sees his fellow man, unknown, 
As foe ; and, arm'd for fight, he minds to keep 

The strictest watch, lest, from advantage shown, 
He tempt unlucky war.) So hurriedly 
I snatch my arms to fight each form I see ! 



NIGHT ON THE PRAIRIE. 275 



IV. 

But, why thus fear ? Give place, ye visions dread ! 

Ye thoughts of boding danger, drearisome, 
Cease to oppress ! Is not the path I tread 

So by Omniscience mark'd, that perils come 
Not near, to even hurt a single hair, 

Without His wise permit ? Are not my days 

Securely meted out, and all my ways 
So guarded, too, that thronging dangers share 

No part in harm's advance or death's progress 
Till all are told ? And can my vigilance, 

Father'd by childish fear, make more or less 
The given sum ? Cheerly, draw courage thence, 

My cowering heart ; feel safety here. Give room 

To other thoughts, and chase these clouds of gloom ! 

V. 

Thus, banished fear, at reason's bid, I cast 

My willing gaze toward heaven. In every star 

That forms the sparkling crown of night, though fast 
In regions of unbounded space, so far 

As scarcely seen by mortal ken, — appears 
Some guardian angel, robed in hght, to keep 
His ceaseless vigils o'er my couch of sleep, 

Lest in my slumbering moments danger near 
To cut the thread of life, and thus undo 

The purposes of God. The silver moon 

Sheds forth her radiance unconfined, and through 

The desert wild to flower and herb gives boon. 
And decks each blade with dewy pearls, and pours 
Them on the earth, to cheer my waking hours. 

VI. 

Nature's vast caravansera, above, 

Below, around, on either side, begirt 
With midnight's varied splendors, scenes I love. 

Becomes enchantment's self, while zephyrs sport 
The fragrance of the wild-flowers multiform, 

And greet my nostrils with their rich perfume, 

To please my senses. Thus my thoi^ghts resume 
Their wonted course, and hush the passing storm 

Of fear. Alone ! Not lonely I. For here 
E'en loneliness companion proves to me, 

And solitude is company. My ear 
Drinks music from these savage sounds ; I see 

Amusements in these forms ; my heart's as strong, 

And easy beats, as 'mid a city's throng ! 



276 THE GOLD REGION. 

VII. 

To me thrice welcome then, ye prairies wild ! 

Midnight, and gloom, and solitude, ye please 
My restless fancy ! Welcome then your child ! — 

For here's my home. And so, with mind at ease, 
I will embrace my mother earth, and court 

The soothing power of sleep. The clear blue sky 

My canopy, the ground my bed, I lie 
Encurtain'd by the pale moon-beams, which sport 

Beside my lowly couch, and light the dew 
With mimic diamonds' glow — while flowers around 

My pillow'd head their willing incense strew. 
And the sweet dreaming bird anon doth sound 

Some isolated note of melody ! — 

Thus chamber'd here, may not kings envy me ? 

My return to camp the next day served to quiet the apprehensions that 
had been experienced on my account during the interim. 

This excursion took me some fifteen miles eastward, to the head waters 
of the Kansas river. The country in that neighborhood wore a barren 
aspect, and was generally sandy and undulating. 

I noticed a kind of mineral substance, of a jetty lustrous appearance, 
which I took to be black-lead. I also remarked certain indications of gold, 
but whether this metal actually exists here I am unable to say ; yet true it 
is, the surface affords large quantities of " gold blossom," and it is said 
also, that gold has been found in these parts. 

The region lying upon the head branches of the Kansas river is con- 
sidered very dangerous, — it being the war-ground of the Pawnees, Caws, 
Chyennes, Sioux, and Arapahos, — and hence comparatively little is known 
of its character and resources. It is represented as quite sandy and 
sterile back from the watercourses, and in many other places but little 
better than a desert waste. The gold story alluded to in the preceding 
paragraph came to me from various sources, in the following shape : 

Some tvv'etity years since, while the Arapahos were at hostilities with 
the whites, a war-party of that tribe advanced against the Pav/nees, led on 
by a noted chief, called " Whirlwind," Three only of them had guns, and 
they soon expended their stock of bullets in shooting small game, there be- 
ing no buftalo upon the route. Finally, left without any thing to ear, they 
became discouraged, and a council was held to discuss the expediency of 
relinquishing the expedition. 

Having seated themselves upon a small eminence, the question of return 
was debated with great earnestness, — a majority being in the affirmative. 
But the head chiel, " Whirlwind," bringing all liis eloquence to bear upon 
the opposite side, at last obtained their consent to proceed. 

During the conference, several small pieces of a glittering yellow sub- 
stance were discovered upon the surface, which proved soft and easily 
worked into any shape. From those a supply of bullets was procured, 
and, resuming their course, they soon after m.-t the Pawnees, with whom 



JOIN ARAPAHOS. 277 

they fought, and were victorious, — every bullet discharged killing an 
enemy. 

This victory was so signal and complete, that the superstitious warriors 
attributed it solely to the medicine-doings of the yellow balls, — three or four 
of which were finally buried with the chief at his death. The only white 
man permitted to see them, describes them as having been precisely the 
color of brass, — very soft and heavy. Admitting that the story is true, * 
there are doubtless very rich mines of gold in this vicinity, that being the 
only metal assimilating brass in color. 

Previous to our leaving Beaver creek, an incident occurred showing the 
remarkable tenacity of life peculiar to buffalo. 

An old bull appeared in the distance, travelling at a rapid rate almost 
directly towards camp. Being in want of a re-supply of fresh meat, I 
seized my rifle and advanced to intercept him. Owing to the unfavorable 
state of the wind, I was forced to make so long a shot that the ball fell some 
two feet below the mark, and struck near the knee-joint of the fore leg, 
shivering it to pieces. 

Still, however, the animal kept on, with scarcely diminished speed, and 
held me a chase of three miles or more before I could overtake him to fin- 
ish the work. At length he was dispatched ; but, on butchering him, I 
was surprised to find a third bullet-wound, apparently three or four days 
old. The ball was full one-half the size of my own, and, incredible as it 
may seem, had penetrated the butt of the buffalo's heart. 

1 could scarcely believe my own eyes, — yet such was the fact. The 
creature had survived a heart-shot for days, and then, with a broken leg, 
had held me a chase of three miles. 

Oar final adventure at this camp, was with a party of Indians. Having 
discovered the latter, early one morning, and supposing them Pawnees, 
we prepared for an encounter. The objects of our apprehension, mista- 
king us for the same, continued manoeuvring upon the adjoining hills the 
entire day, in such a manner as to lead us to conclude the whole 
country was filled with Indians. 

Toward sundown, after vainly endeavoring to procure an attendant, I 
armed myself and proceeded alone to the spot where they had been last 
seen, determined to discover, if possible, the nature and extent of the 
danger that awaited us. Here, a single warrior advanced to meet me, — 
giving signs of friendship and of his nation. In answer to the inquiry, 
why his party had acted so strangely, he said they had thought us enemies, 
and were afraid. 

He accompanied me to camp, and, soon after his companions came up ; 
but, instead of the powerful war-party of Pawnees awaiting to slaugnter 
us by night, as our imaginations had depicted, and their cunning move- 
ments led us to infer, they proved but three Arapaho warriors, three squaws, 

* The country adjacent to the head branches of the Kansas river is but little 
known to the whites, who seldom visit it on account of its dangerous nature. That 
valuable minerals are contained in its soil is quite probable, and no doubt they will 
be brought to light upon due research. 



278 PREVAILING ROCK. 

and two children. Our surprise at this laughable denouement was only 
equalled by their own. 

They announced themselves in search of the Arapaho village, and ex- 
pressed much pleasure at meeting with the whites. Our visitors -having 
passed the night v-/ith us, the next morning we yielded to iheir solicitations, 
and set out with them to the village, some eighteen miles distant, in a 
northwest direction. 

About noon we arrived at the place, and found six or seven hundred 
lodges of Arapahos, Chyennes, and Sioux, encamped in a large valley 
skirting a small affluent of Beaver creek. 

The village, being prepared to move, in a few moments succeeding our 
arrival, was en route for the Platte river. The spectacle was novel and 
imposing. Lodge followed lodge in successive order, — forming vast pro- 
cessions for miles in length. Squaws, children, horses, and dogs, minghng 
in promiscuous throng, covered the landscape in every direction, and gave 
it the aspect of one dense mass of life and animation. 

Here a troop of gorgeously dressed and gaily painted damsels, all ra- 
diant with smiles and flaunting in conscious beauty, bestriding richly ca- 
parisoned horses, excited the admiration and commanded the homage of 
gallantry ; there a cavalcade of young warriors, bedaubed with fantastic 
colors — black, red, white, blue, or yellow, in strict accordance with savage 
taste — habited in their nicest attire, swept proudly along, chanting their 
war-deeds in measured accents to the deep-toned drum ; and then another 
band of pompous horsemen scoured the spreading plain, in eager race to 
test the speed of their foaming chargers ; and, yet again, a vast army of 
mounted squaws, armed with the implements for root-digging, spread far 
and wide in search of the varied products of the prairie ; then, among the 
moving mass, passed slowly along the travees, conveying the aged, intirm, 
and helpless, screened from the heat of a summer's sun by awnings of skins, 
that beshaded their cradled occupants, — while immense trains of pack-ani- 
mals, heavily laden with provisions and camp equipage, as they crowded 
amid the jogging multitudes, united to complete the picture of a travelling 
Indian village. 

Yielding to the request of our new friends, we proceeded with them ten 
or twelve miles further and passed the night in their lodge. 

Our route from Beaver creek led over a tumulous country, interspersed 
with valleys of a rich soil, and prolific in rank vegetation. The side-hills 
afforded large quantities of pomme blanc, and the prairies and bottoms a 
splendid array of choice floral beauties. 

The creeks disclosed wide, sandy beds, often dry and skirted by broad 
valleys which were passably well timbered. The principal ridges were 
not high, but surmounted by dense pine forests, with pleasant openings, 
smiling in all the loveliness of spring. 

Notwithstanding the scanty volumes of the streams, the country presents 
to the traveller the appearance of being well watered by frequent rains, 
while ever and anon a gurgling fountain strikes upon his ear with its soft 
music. 

Stratified rock is usually rare ; the only species noticed were limestone 
and sandstone. I remarked a great abundance of silex and hornblend, 



HUMAN TENACITY TO LIFE. 279 

with some curious specimens of ligneous petrifiactions. The only indica- 
tion of minerals observable, was that of iron and coal. 

The entire section from Beaver to Cherry creek possesses nearly the 
same geological and mineralological character. Its indigenous produc- 
tions are such as are common to the mountain prairies, and are found in 
equal abundance ; — a remark which will also apply to its game. 

As a whole, perhaps two-thirds of it might be cultivated, to some extent, 
were it not for unseasonable frosts ; and all of it might be turned to good 
account for stock-raising. 

The next day we bade farewell to our Indian friends, (leaving behind us 
one of our number, who chose to accompany them to the Fort,) and again 
launched forth upon the broad expanse. Bearing a course west-northwest, 
about noon of the second day we struck Cherry creek, some tliirty-five or 
forty miles above its mouth ; — thence, crossing the lofty plateaux, on the 
west, with two or three intervening creeks, toward evening of the third 
day we reached the Platte river at its exit from the mountains. 

Our intention was to enter the mountains and spend a few weeks in 
deer-hunting; but, the river proving impassable, on account of high water, 
we were compelled to forego that purpose for the present, and accordingly 
started for Fort Lancaster to procure a re-supply of ammunition. 

Continuing down the Platte, on the third day we reached our destination, 
and were kindly received, though humorously rallied upon our way-worn 
and forlorn appearance. Nor were we backward to join the laugh, occa- 
sionally retorting, when the jocose current set too strong against us, 
*' Well, what do you know about warl — You've never been to Texas !" 

The 6th of July dated our arrival, — the glorious fourth having been spent 
in plodding over a broad prairie, on foot, with rifles upon our shoulders and 
packs upon our backs. By comparison, I concluded my fortune had slight- 
ly improved since July 4th of the preceding year, which found me in a 
cheerlfess prairie, on foot, packing my bed, almost naked, without knife or 
gun, or having had a mouthfull to eat for two days previous. 

Capt. Fremont, elsewhere spoken of, had just arrived from the States on an 
expedition to Oregon, ordered by the United States Government, and brought 
intelligence of an existing armistice between Mexico and Texas. Accom- 
panying his party was one whom I recognized as an old acquaintance 
of other lands, the first and only one I had the. pleasure of meeting with 
during my long sojourn in the country. 

July 1 1 til, witnessed the death of an old mountaineer at Fort Lancas- 
ter, who came to his end from the elTects of a pistol wound received in a 
drunken frolic on the 4th. The ball entered the back about two inches 
below the heart, severely fracturing the vertebras and nearly severing the 
spinal marrow. 

He lived just one week succeeding the occurrence, but meanwhile suf- 
fered more than the agonies of death. His body below the wound was en- 
tirely devoid of feeling or use from the first, and, as death preyed upon him 
by piecemeal, he would often implore us with most piteous and heart -melt- 
ing appeals kindly to ease his miseries by hastening his end. The mur- 
derer was left at large, and in two or three weeks subsequent accompanied 
Capt. Fremont to Oregon. 



280 " OLD BOB. 

The above is the most remarkable exhibition of human tenacity to hfe 
that ever came under my personal observation ; I have, however, heard 
of instances far more extraordinary. The case of Ex-Governor Boggs, of 
Mo., in '41, who recovered from the effects of a wound, that not only frac- 
tured his scull, but actually emitted particles of the brain, is doubtless well 
known ; yet another of like nature, still more wonderful in its details, oc- 
curred to an old French trapper, named Augustine Clermont, with whom 
I am well acquainted. 

Clermont, in an affray with a Spaniard, had been prostrated by a blov/ 
that fractured his scull in the occiput. His antagonist then fell upon him 
and thrust the point of a knife into the brain repeatedly, and finally left him 
for dead. 

Soon after, he was found by his friends in this deplorable situation, who, 
on perceiving he yet breathed, kindly dressed his wounds, and bestowed 
upon him the attention his situation demanded, and in a short time he be- 
came perfectly sound and hearty. 

July 13th. The Indian village before spoken of, on its way in quest of 
buffalo, visited the Fort, and, as is customary on such occasions, the 
squaws and children made themselves busy in appropriating to their own use 
such little articles as came within their reach. I was minus a blanket 
through their artfulness, and several other individuals suffered equally with 
myself. 

Some six weeks afterward they returned, and again called at the Fort, 
when, recognizing my stolen blanket in the possession of a young warrior, 
1 immediately took it from him. At first he stoutly resisted, and the more 
so as several hundred of his tribe were present, — but, all to no purpose ; 
and he at length yielded, as he saw me on the point of enforcing my claims 
to it in a more feeling way, such as would doui)tless have endangered his 
own personal safety. 

I remained at Fort Lancaster for two months or more ; and the several 
incidents which occurred in the interim may be thus briefly summed up : 

The first in order was an outrage of the Chyennes, in cruelly murdering 
the young man with whom I had passed a portion of the preceding winter 
upon Vasques' creek. 

The next was the appearance of a small party of emigrants, on their re- 
turn to the States, — having become displeased with the management of 
the company then en route tor Oregon. 

A third was the arrival of one of the four men w^ho had left for the Cim- 
arone at the first disbanding of the Texan volunteers, and were subsequent- 
ly taken prisoners by the Mexicans. 

After being incarcerated at Santa Fe for two or three weeks, they were 
finally liberated, with the exception of one, who had died in the interval. To- 
ward the last of their im.prisonment, they were treated kindly, owing to the 
exemplary conduct of the Texans, as spoken of elsewhere. 

The fellow thus introduced, responding to the name of " Old Bob," made 
himself quite conspicuous by his subsequent conduct. The gentleman in 
charge at Fort Lancaster, pitying his deplorable condition, kindly afforded 
him employment at a liberal compensation, and Old Bob set to work faith- 



THE WICKED SHALL NOT GO UNPUNISHED. 281 

fully. In the course of twelve or fifteen days, however, he improved the 
opportunity of stealing a rifle and ammunition, with which he absconded 
and set his face for the mountains. 

All that he now lacked to complete his equipment was a good horse, which 
deficiency seemed luckily made up by the discovery of one recently strayed 
from the Indians. "I must have him," said Bob. So, carelessly droppmg 
his rifle and pack, he commenced a fruitless effort to capture the erratic 
steed. 

For a while his success seemed almost certain ; but, after a tedious trial 
for several hours, he was finally obliged to relinquish the attempt, and turn- 
ed to recover his rifle and pack. Alas, for Old Bob ! here an unlooked-for 
calamity presented itself— they were not to be found ! 

Vainly it was that he searched diligently for four successive days, en- 
during in the mean time all the pangs of hunger and the goadings of a 
guilty conscience — his scrutiny gave not the slightest indication of their 
whereabouts. " Truly, ' the way of transgressors is hard !' " thought Bob, 
as with reluctance he abandoned all,* and despairingly set his face to go — 
he knew not whither ! — half-starved and half-naked, with neither pistol, gun, 
nor butcher-knife, for his defence hi a dangerous country ; nor one morsel 
to renew his strength by day, nor even a solitary rag to screen him from 
the chill air of night ! 

The next place at which Old Bob showed himself was at an Indian 
lodge, thither driven by the impulse of hunger — having starved for more 
than five successive days. Here he procured a temporary supply from the 
compassionate inmates, who also kindly gave him a robe. 

Nothing further was heard of him for eight or ten days, and the gener- 
ally conceded opinion was, that he had either starved to death or had been 
killed by savages, when an express from the Arkansas brought intelligence 
of having encountered him by the way. 

The luckless wight, after being without eating for five or six more days, 
had been robbed by the Apache Indians of everything about him except a 
pair of ragged pantaloons, and barely escaped from them with his life ! 
The express furnished him. with a quantity of provisions, a pistol, robe, and 
ammunition, when, bidding him farewell, the two resumed their respective 
courses. 

From this date, his story is briefly told. Pursuing his way toward the 
Arkansas, he soon after met a small party of Mexican traders, and, creep- 
ing upon their encampment at night, helped himself to a couple of horses. 
" It's a straight road that has no turns," muttered Old Bob, as he mounted 
one of them and returned to the Platte, where he bartered the other for a 
rifle and ammunition. 

For a brief interval he seemed to prosper in his iniquity, but erelong 
the tables were again turned upon him, and he experienced the literal ful- 
filment of that other declaration of holy writ which says, " The wicked 
shall not go unpunished.'' 

Elated by his recent success, he again started for the Arkansas, with 

* Two weeks subsequently, while on a hunting excursion, the person to whom the 
etolen rifle belonged found it, with all the property of the tliief ; — a most remarkable 
circumstance, as the country had been filled with strolling Indians during the interval 



*282 A PROTRACTED MEETING. 

the intent of renewing his depredations, accompanied by two other adven- 
turers whom he had pursuaded to become the partners of his criminal enter- 
prise ; but, before proceeding far, he fell in with the same company of Mex- 
ican traders from whom he had stolen the horses. They immediately re- 
cognized him and the animal he rode, and took possession of the latter. 
As for Old Bob, notwithstanding his protestations of innocence and stout 
resistance, they stripped him of gun, pistol, and ammunition — gave him a 
sex ere flogging, and again turned him adrift upon the prairie, destitute of 
everything except the baseness of his own heart ! 

" Well, Bob," said one of his comrades ; " this business appears not so 
projitabk, after all ; though you, doubtless, have become quite warmed in 
its pursuit. For my own part I shall quit it before I begin, and return to 
the States." 

" And I, too ;" chimed in the other. 

"The fact is," replied Bob, " this country is getting rather too hot forme, 
and I'll bear you company ! What d'ye say to that ?" 

" Just as you like," responded his two companions ; " that is, provided 
you wont attempt the grab game on us." 

" Come, boys ; now that's too bad ! Oh, you may rest assured I will 
never repay a kindness with ingratitude, neither will I abuse the confidence 
of friends." 

Thus arranged, the three started on their way. Coming upon a camp of 
hunters, a few miles below Bent's Fort, they concluded to remain a short 
time in order to procure a supply of meat for their journey. Here our slip- 
pery customer borrowed a horse and rifle of his comrade, pretendedly for a 
buffalo hunt, and under a most solemn pledge of returning them ; how- 
ever, on finding himself again armed and mounted, he was not slow to im- 
prove the opportunity of bidding an abrupt farewell to the unsuspecting 
dupe, and resumed his course toward the States. 

How he eventually succeeded through this last shift, I am unable to say ; 
yet, the brief story of his adventures thus far is sufficient to prove, that 
iniquity sometimes, even in this hfe, receives a severe reward. 

Toward the last of August the Arapahos and Chyennes held a grand 
convocation, in the vicinity of Fort Lancaster, for the porpose of medicme- 
making ; or, in other words, paying their united devotions to the Great 
Spirit. The gathering might with propriety have been termed a ^'■Protract- 
ed Meeting,'^ as it continued for three successive days and nights, exclusive 
of the time occupied in preliminary arrangements. 

Besides the two tribes above named, a large number of Sioux, Cuman- 
ches, Blackfeet, and Riccarees, were present, swelling the concourse to 
nearly a thousand lodges. 

The regular participants in the ceremonies of the occasion had pre- 
viously prepared themselves by a fast of three days, attended with frequent 
washings and purifications. A large lodge had been erected in the 
form of an amphitheatre, as described upon a former page, with a pole in its 
centre pointing to the zenith, near the top of which was affixed the head 
of a butTalo. Here the throng assembled, with up-turned eyes, encircling 
it around in solemn dance, accompanied by a low musical chant, as they 
addressed the " Big Medicim.'^ This strange worship was maintained 



MAIN CHAIN OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 283 



day and night, without intermission, — the devotees meanwhile neither 
eating nor drinking. So exhausted were they, that at times, they fell from 
effects of weakness and fatigue. 

Some of their performances savored much of Hindoo origin. Those 
wishing to be thought particularly good, attested their piety by cutting 
themselves in various places, — and, yet others, by drawing after them the 
heads of buffalo fastened upon hooks inserted in their own flesh. As 
the exercises were about to close, an offering of blankets, robes, beads, 
tobacco, &c., was made to the Good Spirit, after which the crowd dis- 
persed. 

Their object appeared to be a threefold one, viz : to do penance for sin, to 
thank the Author of Good for past favors, and to implore a continuance of 
His beneficence for the future. 

The head around which they danced was evidently not the object of 
their veneration, but was placed there simply to remind them that, as the 
buffalo constituted their principal sustenance, the Good Being should be 
more especially adored on its account. 

A number of articles having disappeared from the Fort rather myste- 
riously, suspicion was fastened upon an Indian for appropriating them in 
the usual way. He was accordingly charged with the theft, but strongly 
affirmed his innocence, and, to place the matter beyond doubt, took an oath 
in attestation of his words. The ceremony observed was as follows : 

Taking his bow, he selected the stoutest of his arrows, and, holding it 
in his right hand, pointed successively to the sky, the ground, and his own 
heart; then, kissing the bow, he again protested his innocence. This 
being considered satisfactory, he was honorably acquitted of the charge. 

An Indian is rarely known either to violate his oath or to swear falsely, 
as in such a case he would be looked upon as being irrecoverably exposed to 
the immediate wrath of heaven and the vengeance of man. The import of 
this ceremony may be expressed in these words : " Thou who dwellest in the 
air and earth, receive from me this arrow, and with this bow plunge it to 
my heart, if I do not speak the truth!" I leave the reader to judge in 
regard to the binding nature of its obligations. 

Sept. 25lh. Having purchased a horse for the purpose, I proceeded to 
the mountains on a hunting excursion, where, unattended by any one, I 
had a further opportunity of testing the varied sweets of solitude. 

My course lay directly west some eight miles to Soublet's creek, a con- 
siderable affluent of the Platte, heading at the base of Long's Peak, — 
thence, continuing up its right hand branch, I penetrated into the moun- 
tains, on the second day, a distance of several miles and camped. One of 
the passes to Grand river, v^-hich is generally thought much the nearest 
route, leads up this branch. 

The interval from the 27th to the 30th was devoted to exploration, and 
I ascended the main chain of the mountains left of Long's Peak. The 
usual height of this ridge is about ten thousand feet, upon which the 
stern chambers of deathless winter are repeatedly exposed to the eye. 

The mountains and creeks were well timbered, — the former with pine, 
cedar, and balsam, and the latter with cottonwood, aspen, and boy-eider. 



284 A GEM. 

Along the wartercourses and intermingled with the rude array of hills 
and rocks, were many beautiful valleys, prairillons, and plateaux, all clothed 
with rank vegetation ; and, indeed, the soil of the entire section appeared 
tolerably fertile. 

The prevailing rock of this region is feldsphatic granite, gneiss, mica- 
ceous sandstone, and slate. These different classifications (here strown 
about in confused piles, and there again towering in massive walls of im- 
mense altitude) presented an impressively grand appearance, and united 
to render the scenery one of varied sublimity and magnificence. 

Sept. 30ih. In the afternoon I raised camp and proceeded for ten or 
twelve miles, through a broad opening between two mountain ridges, 
bearing a northwesterly direction, to a large valley skirting a tributary of 
Thompson's creek, where, finding an abundance of deer, I passed the in- 
terval till my return to the Fort. 

Upon all the principal streams were large quantities of cherries and 
plums, which proved quite acceptable. The cherry (cerasus xirginiana) indi- 
genous to this country is quite similar in appearance to our common wild 
cherry, though it is generally larger and more pleasantly tasted. It grows 
upon a small bush, and yields in lavish profusion. 

Three diiferent varieties of plums are common to these parts, but are so 
similar in most respects to the wild species of that fruit found in our South- 
ern and Western States, that I shall not take the trouble to describe them. 

The locality of my encampment presented numerous and varied attrac- 
tions. It seemed, indeed, like a concentration of beautiful lateral valleys, 
intersected by meandering watercourses, ridged by lofty ledges of precip- 
itous rock, and hemmed in upon the west by vast piles of mountains 
climbing beyond the clouds, and upon the north, south, and east, by sharp 
lines of hills that skirted the prairie ; while occasional openings, like gate- 
ways, pointed to the far-spreading domains of silence and loneliness. 

Easterly a wall of red sandstone and slate extended for miles north- 
ward and southward, whose counterscarp spread to view a broad and gen- 
tle declivity, decked with pines and luxuriant herbage, at the foot of which 
a lake of several miles in circumference occupies the centre of a basin- 
like valley, bounded in every direction by verdant hills, that smile upon 
the bright gem embosomed among them. 

This valley is five or six miles in diameter, and possesses a soil well 
adapted to cultivation. It also aflbrds every variety of game, while the 
lake is completely crowded with geese, brants, ducks, and gulls, to an ex- 
tent seldom witnessed. What a charming retreat for some one of the 
world-hating literati ! He might here hold daily converse with himself. Na- 
ture, and his God, far removed from the annoyance of man. 

Four miles further north the traveller is brought to one of the main 
branches of Thompson's creek, up which is another pass to the waters of 
Grand river. 

This stream traces its way through a fertile valley, two or three miles 
broad, stretching from the prairie almost to the base of Long's Peak, — a dis- 
tance of nearly thirty miles. The valley is well timbered and admirably 
adapted to stock-raising. 

The hills and mountains, enclosing it upon each side are also studded 



NATURAL FOTIFICATION. 



285 



with forests of pine and cedar, while the entire section is stored witli all 
of the usual varieties of game known to contiguous regions, in addition 
to its rich treasures of fruits, flowers and grasses. 

In surveying, from a commanding summit, the vast prairie skirting the 
muntain range upon the east, several small lakes are discernible at differ- 
ent points. The water of these is usually brackish, and their shores, 
whitened by constant saline efflorescence, glisten in the sun's rays, and 
present a striking contrast with the surrounding verdure. 

The mind is perfectly astounded at the immense expanse thus brought 
within the scope of vision. In a clear day, objects favorably situated no 
larger than an ox or a horse, may be seen at a distance of twenty miles, 
and the timber of creeks even for sixty or seventy miles. Here the beholder 
may scale beyond the clouds far heavenward, and gaze upon a world at 
his feet ! 

My hunting was confined principally to black-tailed deer. These ani- 
mals are much larger than others of the genus cervi, and their flesh is of a 
superior flavor. Their habits are similar to those of tlie wild sheep, — 
leading them constantly to seek the regions of spring ; in the winter, de- 
scending to the valleys, and in the summer, keeping pace with the melt- 
ing snows upon the mountain-sides. 

The extremity of their vertebrjB is shorter than that of other species of 
the deer family, and has upon it a small cluster of coarse, jetty hair, from 
which the animal derives its name. Their hair is usually of a dark brown 
color, coarse and brittle, with the exception of a strip of dirty white upon 
the hams. Their ears are very large and long, — quite similar to those of 
a mule ; in other respects, however, they conform to the peculiarities of 
the common deer. 

I was quite successful with my rifle, and, by degrees, became much 
attached to the versatile life of lordly independence consociate with the 
loneliness of my situation. My horse, too, seemed to have forgotten all 
the allurements of former scenes, and presumed at no time to wander 
many yards from camp, — a peculiarity in this noble animal I have fre- 
quently had occasion to remark. When thus alone, a horse will substi- 
tute the society of man for that of his own species, and, as if conscious of 
surrounding danger, will seldom leave the vicinity of a camp for a long 
distance. 

Oct. 29lJi, I started for the Fort. It had been my intention to visit 
a remarkable natural fortification upon one of the affluents of Crow creek, 
but, ammunition failing, T was reluctantly compelled to abandon it. 

This fortress is said to be complete in nearly all its parts, and capable 
of garrisoning a thousand men, yet even one or two hundred might defend 
it from the repeated assaults of vast armies, and, with a small amount of 
labor, might render it impregnable. 

Its walls are huge masses of solid rock, one or two hundred feet in 
height, — apparently strata planted on end, — enclosing an area of several 
acres, unenterable except at limited openings. According to the glowing 
descriptions of it given by hunters, it must be an object well worthy the 
attention of the curious. 



286 FALSE ACCOUNTS. 

At nin-lit, I encamped at the base of the mountain?, upon the right hand 
fork of doublet's creek, and the next day reached the Fort. 

The last ten or twelve miles of the route (leading over an unbroken 
prairie) were travelled during a heavy fall of snow, which rendered the air 
so dark it was impossible to see a dozen yards in advance. But what 
added still more to the uncertainty of my course was the frequent vari- 
ance of the wind, changing the position of the grass, and otherwise in- 
creasing the constant liability to misjudge. Notwithstanding these accu- 
mulated difficulties, I struck the Piatte river only half a mile below the in- 
tended point. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 



Newspapers. — False reports.— Singular grasses.— Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster.— An 
excursion. — An incident.' — Camp. — Huge horns. — Leopard. — Panther.' — Slaughter 
of eagles. — Dressing skins. — The hunter's camp. — Vasques' creek. — The weather. — 
Return of comrades to Fort. — Sweets of solitude. — Exposure in a snow-storm. — 
The caiion of S. Fork Platte. — A ridge. — A valley. — Beautiful locality. — Choice 
site for a settlement. — Flowers in February. — A hunting incident. — Fate of the pre- 
mature flowers. — Adventure with a sheep. — Discovered by Indians. — A pleasant 
meeting. — Camp at Crystal creek. — Thoughts of home. — Resolve on going. — Com- 
mence journey. — The caravan. — " Big Timber." — Country to the " Crossing." — 
Big Salt Bottom. — Flowers. — A stranger of other lands. — Difficulty with Indians, 
— " Friday." — Tedious travelling. — No timber. — Detention. — Country. — Pawnee 
Fork. — jMountain and Spanish companies. — Spy Buck, the Sawnee war chief — • 
Pawnee Fork. — Cure for a rattlesnake's bite.- -Further detention. — Sketch of ad- 
jacent country. — Pawnee Rocks. — En route with Friday. — Musquitoes. — Observa- 
tions. — Friday as a hunter. 

The different trading companies had just arrived from the States, bring- 
ing their winter stock of goods, and, what was still more acceptable to me, 
a bundle of newspapers. Every item of intelhgence contained in the lat- 
ter was greedily devoured, but what afTorded me no little amusement was 
the palpable falsity and ignorance their editors exhibited in relation to mat- 
ters of this country. 

For instance, in giving the particulars of the murder of Chartis, a Mexi- 
can trader, which occurred in March, 1843, the crime was represented as 
having been committed near the Little Arkansas, by a party of Texans 
on their way to join Col. Warfield, who was then encamped in that vicinity 
with forty men ! whereas, at that time Col. Warfield had only nine men 
with him, and was at least three hundred miles from the Little Arkansas ; 
and further, the murderers of Charvis zcere not Texans! 

Subsequently, an article in another paper came under my observation, 
referring to a statement made to the National Institute, by an officer of the 



BEASTS OF PREY. 287 

United States Dragoons, purporting to give a description of the the bufalo 
grass common to the grand prairie. This grass was represented as grow- 
ing six or eight inches high, and as being abundant n the mountains, par- 
ticularly of New Mexico, where (if I rightly remember) it was said it re- 
mained green the entire winter. The truth of the matter is, buffalo grass 
very rarely exceeds iico and never attains four inches in height, — is not 
found in the mountains at all, so far as my observation has extended, and 
is green only about one month in the year ! 

By the way, speaking of grass reminds me of a remarkable characteristic 
in some varieties indigenous to this country, and which will atford matter 
of speculation to the inquiring mind. The blade, killed by the frost of 
winter, is resuscitated in the spring and gradually becomes green from the 
root up, without casting its stubble or emitting new shoots ! 

The skins obtained during my hunt found a ready sale, at prices ranging 
from one to three dollars each, according their to quality and condition. 
These articles were in great demand for the manufacture of clothing among 
the Fort hands, and are considered far preferable to cloth. 

Nov. 10th. I again returned to the mountains, heading a small party 
that insisted upon bearing me company. Late in the afternoon of the se- 
cond day we made camp in a valley, behind the first ridge of hills, upon 
the right hand fork of Soublet's creek. 

An incident en route afforded some little amusement at the time. We 
had left the Fort without provisions, and I accordingly proceeded a short 
distance in advance for the purpose of killing antelope. Riding slowly on, 
I noticed a badger not far ahead, and dismounted to shoot him. But the 
creature becoming alarmed sprang for his hole, and I hastened to stop 
him. This I effected by tightly grasping his tail as he was in the very 
act of entering his burrow. In the chase my rifle had accidentally dis- 
charged itself, and here commenced a struggle between me and the badger, 
— I to retain my hold while I unbelted my pistol to dispatch him, and he to 
enforce his liberty. At length I succeeded, and a choice supper was made 
from his carcase, which, to all intents, was the fattest thing 1 ever saw. 

We remained encamped at the place above named for some six weeks, 
and devoted the iaterval principally to hunting sheep, of which there 
were vast numbers in the neighborhood. In attestation of the monstrous 
horns borne by some of them, I need only mention the simple fact of my 
having killed three sheep while here whose horns measured nineteen 
inches in circumference, and nearly three feet in length. 

One of our party encountered a strange looking animal in his excur- 
sions, which, from his description, must have been of the leopard family. 
This 'circumstance is the more remarkable, as leopards are rarely found 
except in southern latitudes. However, they are not unfrequently met 
with in some parts of the Cumanche country, and their skins furnish to 
the natives a favorite material for arrow-cases. 

The only beast of prey other than 'wolves, encountered during the 
entire winter, was a solitary panther, whose extreme shyness defied all 
attempts to approach within shooting distance. 



288 CAMP OF THE MOUNTAIN HUNTER. 

My more lengthy rambles brought me to a large valley immured by lat- 
eral hills, that had been occupied a short time previous by a party of In- 
dians, for the purpose of eagle-catching. As proof of their success, I 
counted the bodies of thirty-six eagles, lying in piles at their recent camp. 
These consisted of the only two varieties found in the mountains, viz : the 
American and bald eagle. The wing-feathers of these birds command a 
ready sale among tlie Indians, by whom they are highly prized for the em- 
pluming of arrows. 

The usual mode of dressing skins, prevalent in this country among both 
Indians and whites, is very simple in its details and is easily practised. 

It consists in removing all the fleshy particles from the pelt, and divest- 
ing it of a thin viscid substance upon the exterior, known as the " grain ;" 
then, after permitting it to dry, it is thoroughly soaked in a liquid decoc- 
tion formed from the brains of the animal and water, when it is stoutly 
rubbed with the hands in order to open its pores and admit the mollient 
properties of the fluid, — this done, the task is completed by alternate rub- 
bings and distensions until it is completely dry and soft. 

In this manner a skin may be dressed in a very short time, and, on ap- 
plication of smoke, will not become hardened from any subsequent contact 
with water. 

The winter-camp of a hunter of the Rocky Mountains would doubtless 
prove an object of interest to the unsophisticated. It is usually located iii 
some spot sheltered by hills or rocks, for the double purpose of securing 
the full warmth of the sun's rays, and screening it from the notice of stroll- 
ing Indians that may happen in its vicinity. Within a convenient prox- 
imity to it stands some grove, from which an abundance of dry fuel is pro- 
curable when needed ; and equally close the ripplings of a watercourse salute 
the ear with their music. 

His shantee faces a huge fire, and is formed of skins carefully extended 
over an arched frame-work of slender poles, which are bent in the form of 
a semicircle and kept to their places by inserting their extremities in the 
ground. Near this is his " graining block," planted aslope, for the ease of 
the operative in preparing his skins for the finishing process in the art of 
dressing ; and not far removed is a stout frame, contrived from four pieces 
of timber, so tied together as to leave a square of sufficent dimensions for the 
required purpose, in which, perchance, a skin is stretched to its fullest ex- 
tension, and the hardy mountaineer is busily engaged in rubbing it with a 
rough stone or " scraper," to fit it for the manufacture of clothing. 

Facing his shantee upon the opposite side of the fire, a pole is reared upon 
crotches five or six feet high, across which reposes a choice selection of 
the dainties of his range, to wit: the " side ribs," shoulders, heads, and 
"rump-cuts" of deer and sheep, or the " depouille" and "fleeces" of buf- 
falo. The camp-fire finds busy employ in fitting for the demands of appe- 
tite such dainty bits of hissing roasts as en appolas may grace its sides ; 
wiiile, at brief intervals, the hearty attendant, enchaired upon the head of a 
mountain sheep, (whose huge horns furnish legs and arms for the conve^ 
nience of sitting,) partakes of his tempting lunch. 

Carefully hung in some fitting place, are seen his " riding" and " pack 



EXPOSURE IN A SNOW-STORM. 289 



saddles," with his halters, " cavraces," " larrietts," " apishamores," and all 
the needful materiel for camp and travelling service ; and, adjoining him at 
no great distance, his animals are allowed to graze, or, if suitable nourish- 
ment of other kind be lacking, are fed from the bark of cottonwood trees 
levelled for that propose ; and, leaning close at hand, his rifle awaits his 
use, and by it his powder-horn, bullet-pouch, and tomahawk. 

Thus conditioned are these lordly rangers in their mountain home, nor 
own that any creature of human kind can possibly enjoy life better than 
they. 

The events of each day varied so little in their nature, that a minute no- 
tice of them would prove uninteresting to the general reader. Suffice it to 
say, we remained here till Jan. 1st, 1844, and then removed to Vasques' 
creek, some thirty-five miles further south, where we encamped in the val- 
ley that formed my hunting ground of the previous winter. 

The weather continued cold, and several falls of snow had occurred, 
covering the prairies to the depth of six or seven inches, and the moun- 
tains to the depth of many feet, though it rarely remained in the warm 
valleys and upon the sunny side-hills to exceed three successive hours. 

Our camp, as a general thing, was quite favorably situated in regard 
to temperature ; the day time frequently affording a spring-Hke warmth, 
though the nights were usually cold. 

A peculiar species of grass among the hills retained its verdancy the 
entire season, as did also another variety in the valleys. Our horses and 
mules continued to thrive and even fatten upon the nourishing herbage 
thus afforded by these secret chambers of spring. 

Soon after our removal to Vasques' creek, three Indians, from a 
neighboring village, paid us a visit, who brought vague information of the 
approximity of the Sioux, which so excited the apprehension of my camp- 
mates relative to their own safety and that of their animals, that they 
were not satisfied to remain here any longer, and accordingly left for the 
Fort. Wishing to ascertain the true situation and locality of such suspi- 
cious neighbors, I proceeded to the Indian village for that purpose. The 
report proved unfounded ; but yet my extra-prudential comrades were 
unwilling to compromise their own safety by a further hunt, and argued 
stoutly to persuade me to accompany them beyond the reach of danger. 
- In the morning, however, as all were ready to resume their journey, I 
mounted my horse, and, bidding them adieu, with my lead pack-animal 
returned to the mountains, resolved on a further test of the sweets of 
loneliness. 

Remaining at our former camp for a week or more, I enjoying full 
scope for my trusty rifle among the vast quantities of deer which showed 
themselves in every direction ; and, in one of my many excursions, pene- 
trated to the head valley of Vasques' creek ; — being belated on my return 
by killing a very fat deer, I was forced to pass the night among the moun- 
tains, without even a robe or a blanket to screen me from the severities of a 
pitiless snow-storm that fell in the mean time. Strange as it may seem, T 
experienced not the slightest ill effect in consequence. 
lU 



290 EARLY SPRING. 



On removing from my old hunting grounds, I halted at two or three dif- 
ferent points still further south, upon small affluents of the Platte, and 
in the course of twenty-five days encamped a few miles below the exit of 
the main stream from the mountains, in an opening made by the forced 
passage of a large creek into the prairie through a sharp line of hills. 

The scenery in the vicinity of this camp was romantic, wild, and beauti- 
ful. The ridge thus bisected was about four hundred feet in heighth, and 
opposed to the creek vast mural cliffs of limestone and sandstone that 
formed a gateway nearly three hundred yards wnde. It ranged paral- 
lel with the mountains, two miles or more removed from them, presenting 
to the prairie a gentle escarpment ornamented with scattering pines and 
clothed at intervals with rank grasses of the preceding year's growth. 

On ascending to its summit you stand at the verge of a steep precipice, 
two hundred or more feet in descent, — as if the earth, opened by internal 
convulsions, had forced the right valve of its fissure to an unnatural posi- 
tion, and thas formed the elevation beneath you. 

This ridge extends for many miles, and overlooks a beautiful valley of 
remarkable fertility, fifteen miles in length by three in breadth, and inter- 
sected by numerous streams, more or -less timbered, that find their way 
from the mountain side. The valley is divided by a continuous ridge that 
runs parallel with its length, which is much the same in character with, 
though more diminutive in size than the one previously described. 

The huge masses of red granitic sandstone that tower to a surprising 
altitude, isolated and in almost every conceivable form and shape, add 
vastly to the wildness of the place. The rock is quite friable and con- 
stantly yielding to the action of the weather, while the soil of the valley is of 
a ruddy color and gravelly nature as will be readily inferred from the above 
fact. 

This superfice is fertilized, not only from the debris of its rocks, but 
by the immense beds of gypsum contained in its hill-sides, which are in- 
cessantly decomposing to enhance the general fecundity. Vegetation, of 
course, must attain a rank growth in such a soil, and, in favored spots, it 
remains green the entire year. 

All the different varieties of wild fruits and game indigenous to the moun- 
tains are found here in great abundance. Among the timber of the creek 
bottom, I noticed hazel-bushes, old acquaintances of the States, which 
looked like messengers from a far off country, and reminded me of other 
scenes. 

There are few localities in the vicinity of the mountains better situated 
for a small settlement, or possessed of greater agricultural advantages than 
this. 

The prairie at the base of the first range of hills is quite saline in its 
character ; and several small lakes of brackish water, and well stocked 
with almost numberless water-fowl, are seen at different points, the incrus- 
tations upon whose shores assume a snowy w^hiteness. Notwithstanding 
this, it possesses a good soil and is admirably adapted to the growth of 
stock. 

Feb. 26lh. The fresh grass upon the hill-sides has assumed a thrifty 
appearance. Insects have begun to quit their winter retreats, and, com- 



ADVENTURE WITH A SHEEP. 291 

mingling their shrill notes with the music of birds, hail the approaching 
spring. I was delighted to find in my rambles a cluster of wild-flowers 
in full bloom, shedding their fragrance to the breeze from a sweet, sunny 
spot among the hills, and I sat for a time to admire its new-born loveli- 
ness. 

One of my horses, having been for some time wasting under the effects 
of a disease peculiar to those animals, died this afternoon, — a loss which 
subjects me to no little inconvenience. It was a noble beast, and cost me 
sixty dollars only four months since. 

Feb. 2Slh. A light snow which fell yesterday night prevented me from 
leaving camp, but liaving shouldered my rifle early this morning, I ranged 
along the valley. The snow had entirely disappeared. Three buftalo 
bulls, alarmed at my approach, rushed down a steep hill-side, quartering 
towards me, at the height of their speed. Running to intercept them, 1 
shot as they passed, prostrating one at the instant. So great was the im- 
petuosity of his headway, the carcase was thrown to the very base of the 
descent, a distance of about three hundred yards ! 

The interest awakened by the picture of loveliness that greeted me two 
days previous, led again to the sweet spot among the rough hill-sides, — but, 
how changed ! The cruel frost had done his death- work — the " flowers 
had withered and the beauty thereof had fallen away." A tear to their 
memory, despite my efforts to restrain it. stole its way to the ground. 
Such was the fate of the first flower of spring ! What a prolific theme 
for a melancholy fancy to brood upon, and, in its musings, catch the inspi- 
rations of poesy ! 

March Ath. The dull monotony of four days past has afforded nothing 
worthy of note. Spring is making rapid advances. To-day, however, an 
incident occurred, which, with suitable forethought, might have been turned 
to good account. Soon after leaving camp I encountered a band of sheep, 
and, despairing of a near approach, shot one of its number at a distance 
of nearly three hundred and fifty yards. The animal immediately fell, 
having been stunned by a neck wound, (" creased,^") but recovered as I 
reached it, barely affording me time to grasp one of its legs. 

Here commenced a struggle, — the sheep to get free, and I to retain my 
hold. In the energy of its efforts I was dragged over the rocks for some 
two hundred yards, when, having caught its fore-leg, I succeeded in 
throwing it, and unthinkingly despatched it with my butcher-kni te. I might 
have preserved it alive, as a rare and valuable addition to some zoological 
collection. My not having done so, I regretted the more, as it was a 
female and would have soon produced another of its species. 

March lih. Having discovered a large band of deer in the prairie 
towards the Platte, early this morning I started to approach them. Beincr 
within the required distance, I was preparing to shoot, when, on glancing 
to the left, a party of horsemen met my view, advancing at full gallop. 
Their bare heads and fluttering robes at once announced them Indians. 

Here was a dilemma ! My first thought was to retire to the creek and 
there await them, under cover of the trees, — but this would convey an im- 



293 REMARKS. 

pression of cowardice, a thing which uniformly receives ill treatment at 
the hands of Indians, while bravey commands their respect. I therefore 
resolved to stand my ground and fight it out, if necessary, let the conse- 
quences be what they would. So, after examining the condition of my 
firearms and making the suitable arrangements for an expected rencoun- 
ter, I calmly awaited their approach. My design was to shoot the fore- 
most when within proper distance, (first forbidding their advance,) tlien, 
having discharged my pistols at the two next, if not previously killed, to 
close in with the remainder, butcher-knife in hand. From hostile savages I 
expected no quarter, and was therefore determined to sell my life as dearly 
as possible. 

A nearer approach, however, changed my gloomy apprehensions into a 
transport of pleasure, as I recognized two old hunters from Fort Lancaster 
at their head, — the first of human beings, white or Indian, that I had seen 
for two months. Their gratification scarcely surpassed my own, they having 
long since supposed me murdered by prowling savages. 

Having camped the day previous about three miles distant with the par- 
ty accompanying them, they were now in quest of buffalo. However, as 
it threatened to be unpleasant weather, an invitation to my camp was 
gladly accepted, where the choice stores my larder afibrded, were dis- 
cussed with epicurean gusto. 

Yielding to their persuasions, in the afternoon I bid adieu to my lovely 
retreat and proceeded with them to their encampment upon the opposite 
side of the Platte, near the mouth of Crystal creek. 

Here a small party of whites from the Fort were occupied in building a 
boat, with which to descend the river. A Mexican woman, from Taos, the 
wife of an engage, honored the scene with her presence, as did also three 
squaws and two Indians. Commodious shantees had been erected for the 
accommodation of the men, which, together with a huge fire and a propor- 
tionate pile of meat, imparted an air of comfort to everything. 

Remaining here for a week or two, I then proceeded to the Fort, a dis- 
tance of about forty miles. The diflferent trading companies were already 
en route for the States, having left several days previous. The thoughts of 
other lands, and more congenial associations, were now revived in all their 
vividness. They filled my mind by day, and crowded my dreams by night. 
Eight years had already intervened since the view of a distant home and 
much-loved childhood scenes had last greeted me, nearly three of which 
had been passed amid the dangers and vicissitudes of prairie and mountain 
life. Yet, I was at a loss to decide what to do. The object of my excur- 
sion had not been satisfactorily accomplished. I wished to visit the Pacific 
and familiarize myself more perfectly with several parts of Oregon and 
California ; this would yet require a year, or even more. 

However, the subject now uppermost in my thoughts influenced the de- 
cision, and, bidding a present adieu to other plans, I made prompt arrange- 
ments for returning to the States. These were soon completed, and on the 
17th of March I commenced my journey. 

With the intermediate country from the Platte to Bent's Fort on the Ar- 
kansas the reader is already famiUar ; and, as few incidents worthy of note 
occurred between these two points, I shall content myself with a mere 



A RARE CUSTOMER. 293 

passing notice and hasten with becoming brevity to a conclusion of the 
task in hand. 

The fourth day succeeding my departure I overtook a division of the 
caravan of mountain traders, numbering ten men and three vt^aggons, with 
which I proceeded to the Big Timber of the Arkansas, distant about two 
liundred miles southeast from Fort Lancas^ter. 

The country at this place, in the immediate vicinity of the river, is fertile 
and well timbered, but the prairies are slightly undulating, arid, and gener- 
ally unproductive. The prevailing rock is exhibited in abrupt clitts and 
bold escarpments from the hill-sides and banks of watercourses, and con- 
sists of various conglomerates, with limestone and sandstone ; the latter being 
very fine-grained and admirably suited to the preparing of edgetools. I 
noticed indications of coal in some parts, and the usual quantity of saUne 
efflorescences, particularly upon the south side of the river. 

On the 10th of April, the caravan being augmented by an accession of 
three other waggons and several men, we again resumed our journey, and, 
on the 28th inst, struck the Santa Fe trail near the Crossing of the Arkan- 
sas, one hundred and ten miles below the Big Timber. 

The geological character of the prairie and the river bottoms is much 
the same as that previously described, with the exception of a general scar- 
city of rock ; though to the southward it is very sterile in appearance, and 
a continuous chain of hills, that in some places are mere knobs of naked 
sand entirely destitute of every semblance of vegetation, plainly points out 
the cheerless llanos of the Great American Desert. 

Below the Big Timber the rank growths of absinthe, which have been 
heretofore so prevalent, almost entirely disappear. 

The river gradually expands to the width of nearly two miles, forming 
several small islands, and scatters its waters in numerous chajmels, over 
beds of quicksand, so shallow and variable as to preclude the possibility 
of successful navigation. 

Timber becomes very scarce, — so much so, that in many places it is 
difficult to obtain a sufficiency even for the camp-fires of travellers. The 
bottoms are usually broad and fertile, but possess a highly saline cha- 
racter. 

One of the above, known as the Big Salt Bottom, is some forty miles 
in length and four or five miles broad. It contains frequent streams and 
pools of brackish water, with spots in which vegetation entirely gives 
place to thick coatings of mineral salts. 

Among the prairie hills I occasionally noticed extensive spreads com- 
pletely covered with a singular species of blue flower in full bloom, 
which imparted to the otherwise forbidding prospect an air of loveliness 
and beauty ; but, in glancing over the far-reaching landscape, I looked in 
vain for the floral attractions peculiar to mountain regions. 

A few miles above the Crossing, an incident occurred which renewedly 
aroused my recollection of other lands. This was the appearance of a 
fine-looking coon, the first I had seen since leaving the States. These 
animals are strangers to the mountains, and were never before known to 
ponetrat© thus far westward. 



294 MEETING OF COMPANIES. 

In passing a village of Arapahos, near the Salt Bottom, we had con- 
siderable difficulty with them on account of ten or fifteen domesticated 
buffalo connected with the caravan. The Indians were highly exaspera- 
ted, and accused the whites of stealing their buffalo. They even armed 
themselves to fight us, and were deterred from their purpose only by a large 
present of tobacco, but still threatened vengeance in case of a renewal of 
the offence. 

Soon after this we were joined by a young Arapaho Indian, named Fri- 
day, who was desirous of visiting the States. He had formerly lived in 
St. Louis, where he had acquired a knowledge of the English language, 
and still maintains a reputation for honesty, intelligence, and sobriety. 
Hereafter I will have occasion to speak of him more particularly, in con- 
nection with his previous history. 

Resuming our course, we bore leftward from the river and struck into 
the high prairie. Late rains had rendered the ground muddy, and travel- 
ling consequently became slow and tedious. 

The weather continued wet and disagreeable, in addition to which the 
unprecedented size and velocity of the streams caused us frequent deten- 
tion. 

The trail, for four or five days, led over a number of timberless water- 
courses, known as " the coon creeks," which subjected us to great incon- 
venience in the item of fuel, as neither tree nor stick could be procured 
for cooking purposes, and hois de bache, the substitue of buffalo countries, 
had become so thoroughly saturated with water it was almost impossible to 
ignite it. 

On the 23d of April, having arrived at Pawnee Fork, we were obliged 
to remain some four weeks before a lord could be effected, — but the dense 
bands of buffalo that thronged the vicinity abated somewhat the annoyance 
of delay. 

The country, between the "Crossing" and Pawnee Fork, varies but 
little in its general character from that previously described, and exhibits a 
favorable contrast to the forbidding wastes of naked sand upon the oppo- 
site side of the Arkansas. Although not absolutely sterile, it is not rich, 
and suffers more from lack of moisture than any actual defect of soil. 
Its entire destitution of timber will prevent it from ever becoming inhab- 
ited to any great extent. 

Rock of all kinds is very scarce, and almost the only specimens preva- 
lent are found in the pebbles and diminutive fragments which lie scattered 
over the prairie. 

During our stay we were joined by Messrs. Bent and St. Vrain, and 
three or four Spanish companies, which increased our caravan to fifty or 
more waggons and nearly one hundred men. 

With the former of the companies was a Chyenne chief, (Slim Face,) on 
his way to Washington to solicit the U. S. Government to adopt some effect- 
ual means for the suppression of the sale of ardent spirits among his 
people. (A very laudable object, indeed.) 



PAWNEE ROCKS. 29d 



Three or four Mexican ladies and several children (being the family of 
one of the Spanish traders, from Chihuahua) were also included with the 
new accession ; but the most noted personage among the whole was Old 
Spy Buck, the famous Shawnee war-chief, who had distinguished himself 
as the leader of a small band of his countrymen in connection with Kirker 
and the Americans employed by the governments of Santa Fe and Chihu- 
ahua to fight the Apache and Navijo Indians. 

The old chieftain was on his return home, venerable in age and covered 
with scars, which gave indubitable evidence of the place he had occupied in 
the hour of danger. The history of his exploits would fill a volume far 
more interesting in its details than those of the proudest heroes of fiction. 

Pawnee Fork afforded an inexhaustible supply of cat-fish, which were 
caught in great numbers by our party. I know of no other stream near, 
upon the Atlantic side of the mountains, where fish are found in any quan- 
tity or size worth naming. 

This creek heads at the eastern extremity of the " Divide," in the 
vicinity of the Smoky Hill branch of the Kansas, and by pursuing a south- 
ern course for about one hundred and fifty miles, finds its discharge in the 
Arkansas. It is heavily timbered, and is known among the Indians as Otter 
creek, on account of the great number of those animals found upon it. 
The valley which skirts it is several miles broad, and very fertile, present- 
ing a large extent of excellent land, well adapted to cultivation. 

While here, I became acquainted with the salutary properties of gun- 
powder in an interesting case. My horse, having been bitten by a rattle- 
snake, was cured by the following simple process : The wound being 
shghtly creased immediately above and below, a small portion of powder 
w^as burnt upon it for four or five times in succession, which completely 
destroyed the effects of the poison. I am informed by those who have 
repeatedly tried this remedy, that it has never been known to fail when 
promptly appUed. 

On the 21st of May, we finally effected a crossing, and by the 24th haa 
reached Walnut creek, twenty miles distant, where high water again op- 
posed a present barrier to further progress. The bottoms were so com- 
pletely flooded that we were forced to occupy an adjoining eminence for a 
camp. 

This stream is heavily timbered, and derives its name from the abun- 
dance of black walnut found along its banks. Its valley is very similar to 
that of Pawnee Fork as regards size and fertility, whife the country be- 
tween the two is evidently possessed of a good soil. 

About twelve miles below Walnut creek, near the trail, is a huge and 
isolated mass of coarse sandstone, known as the Pawnee Rocks. This is 
a noted landmark, and, like Independence Rock elsewhere spoken of, is 
covered with the names of passers by, en route to and from the mountains 
and Mexican States. 

Here was a confused medley of cognomens, — English, French, Spanish, 
German, Irish, and Scotch, — all entered upon the register of fancied immor- 
tality; and here, too, as I glanced over the strange catalogue, a number of our 



296 "FRIDAY." 



company were busily engaged in carving their own ; but remembering a 
former resolution, I declined the honor of imitating their example. 

June I6th. More than three weeks have intervened since our arrival at 
Walnut creek, and still there is no present possibility of proceeding with 
the waggons. This continued delay is becoming extremely irksome, not- 
withstanding the countless thousands of buffalo which afford us an inex- 
haustible feast of " fat things." Time is precious and I must go on ; and 
there are several who would do likewise, but hesiiate, — while frightful vis- 
ions of Pawnees and Osages disturb their midnight dreams and fluster 
their waking thoughts. Friday, the Aiapaho, asks to accompany me ; — 
our arrangements are completed, and to-morrow we leave. 

June 11th. About noon, bidding adieu to vexatious hindrances, we 
started, and, after a short ride, forded the Arkansas above the mouth of Wal- 
nut creek, — thence, following tlie course of that river upon its opposite 
bank, we halted for the night in a broad sandy bottom, four or five miles be- 
low. 

The mu?quetoes here proved so troublesome to ourselves and animals, 
we were compelled to defend the former by means of a dense smoke and pro- 
tect the latter with a close envelope of robes. The next morning we re- 
crossed the Arkansas, and, striking the waggon road soon after near Plum 
Butte, continued our way to Cow creek. 

A few miles above this point the regular trail leaves the Arkansas upon 
the right, and, following a northwesterly course for about three hundred and 
fifty miles, strikes the States at Independence, Mo. 

The interval between Walnut and Cow creeks is generally sandy and 
somewhat tumulous, but is difTerent in many respects from any other sec- 
tion previously noticed. The hills, adjacent to tlie river and near the 
trail, are coniform and not unfrequently naked piles of dry sand, while the 
hollows and depressions among them afford a humid soil, coated with rank 
vegetation 

Cow creek is a small stream with very steep, clayey banks, and is 
sparsely timbered. Its bottom is about four miles broad and of variable 
fertility, — doubtless susceptible of cultivation. 

On resuming our course we leave the buffalo region, a transition for which 
we are now fully prepared. Aware that this must shortly occur, I had sent 
Friday in advance with my rifle, who very soon prostrated three fine bulls, 
affording us a stock of most excellent beef from which to make our selec- 
tions. 

Few Indians or whites can compete with Friday as a buffalo-hunter, 
either in the use of the bow or riffe. I have seen him kill five of these 
animals at a single chase, and am informed that he has not unfrequently 
exceeded that number. Conscious skill, in this respect, is the occasion 
of some little pride to its possessor. 

But it is not in hunting exploits alone that he excels ; his deeds of war 
equally command the respect and admiration of his tribe, among whom he 
is known as the " Arapaho American." A brief sketch of his early life 
I have reserved for the succeeding chapter, which the reader may rely upon 
as Btrictly true. 



297 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

The Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. — Tenets of the mountain Indians m 
reference to a future state of rewards and punishments. — The " water bull." — 
Country between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locality for settle- 
ment. — Sudden rise of water. — Separate routes. — Dangerous travelling. — Osage 
village. — Osages, and all about them. — Arrival at Van Buren, Arkansas. — Con- 
cluding remarks. 

Early in the year 1828, ere peace had been established between the 
whites and the Arapahos, a large village of that tribe made its temporary 
encampment upon the waters of the Cimarone, in the vicinity of the 
Santa Fe trail. 

An opportunity so favorable for amusement was not suffered long to pass 
unimproved by the younger ones, and group after group of merry boys 
and girls were soon bescattered over the adjoining prairie, engaged in their 
innocent sports, — for of play all children possess an intuitive fondness, be 
they white, red, or black. 

Each successive day yielded its tribute to the routine of pleasure, as, true 
to the teachings of childish philosophy, they seized the enjoyments of the 
present, nor thought or cared for the future, — and thus far, it may be said, 
some men are but overgrown boys. 

Impelled by the restless spirit of their years, on an occasion, several 
frolicksome lads had wandered to an unusual distance from camp, and 
passed most of the day in a fruitless effort to catch prairie-dogs. 

At length, wearied with a bootless task, they set their faces homeward. 
Scarcely had they started, however, when the village made its appear- 
ance, bearing directly towards them ; whereupon the happy band, seat- 
ing themselves at the point of an eminence, awaited its approach, and 
soon mingled with their relatives, one after another, as they were dis- 
closed by the passing throng. 

In a short time a little boy, some six years old, alone remained — watch- 
ing with eager impatience the appearance of his father's lodge ; but still 
it came not. The crowd had passed and a solitary old man brought up 
the rear. On seeing the lone stripling, he enquired the cause of his 
delay. 

" My parents come not, and I await them," said the little fellow. 

"Haste you," replied the man ; " they have gone towards the sun-rising 
for a day's travel. Run quick, that you may join them." 

The lad promptly followed the old man's direction, and set off in pur- 
suit. His route led over a long reach of dry sand-prairie, eastward of 
the Cimarone, which was entirely destitute of water, and soon after cross- 
ing the creek a heavy wind obscured the trail, in addition to which the 
thick clouds of dust, with fast-closing night and insufferable thirst, com- 
pelled him to turn again to the Cimarone. 



298 THE ARAPAHO AMERICAN. 

Another attempt to reach the village the day following was unsuccess- 
ful, and each repeated eifort proved equally unavailing. 

At length, weakened by hunger and suffering, he laid himself down to 
die, in a grass plat by the creek side. 

Seven days of continued fasting which followed, left him so debilitated 
he could scarcely stand. His mind began to wander ; he thought himself a 
dweller of the Spirit Land and a ranger of the hunting ground of happy 
souls. 

His bewildered vision pictured the joyous chase, bounding along the 
celestial plains. Strange voices greeted his ear, and sounds broke upon 
the stillness of solitude. He gazes around, and sights still stranger close 
in upon him, — not visionary, but real. 

" It must be so," said he. " Here are the horses for me to ride, and 
there is the game for me to chase. But, what singular buffalo ! How 
long their horns, and how white ! — What strange colors, too ! — white, red, 
black, and mixed ! And, who are they ? — Ah ! the pale-faces ! They ap- 
proach ! What do they here ? — I cannot escape them !" Thereupon he 
found himself in the firm grasp of two white men, who cut short his solilo- 
quy by bearing him to their camp. 

His fancy, though illusive in its inception, had ended in sober reahty. 
The strange voices greeting his ear were those of his captors, who had 
just encamped near him ; the horses and singular buffalo exciting his won- 
der, were the horses and cattle of a caravan of Santa Fe traders ; and the 
pale-faces were two of the company, by the names of Fitzpatrick and Soub- 
let, by whom he was taken. 

They were on their return to the States, and, noticing a strange object in 
the vicinity of camp soon after their noon halt, approached to learn its 
character and found the little sufferer as above related. , 

He had never before seen the whites, and, knowing them only from the 
representations of his people, they were associated in his boyish fancy with 
all that was hateful and wicked. But, instead of the cruel death he had 
supposed would be his certain allotment at their hands, they administered to 
his wants and plied him with kindnesses. Everything about him was so 
strange, he could scarcely be convinced it was not a picture of the imagina- 
tion — that he was not yet dreaming of the happy country, or actually initi- 
ated into its delightful mysteries. 

From the date of this event he was ushered into a new state of exist- 
ence, and soon acquired the language and habits of the whites. Taken to 
St. Louis, he remained there for some five years, and received a partial ed- 
ucation during the interval. So complete was the transformation, he even 
forgot the name and language of his nation, and became an adept in the 
customs of civihzed life. 

About the year 1832, Capt. Grant succeeded in effecting a treaty with 
the Arapahos, and pending its negotiation mention was made of a boy, said 
to have been lost upon the Cimarone several years previous, who was sup- 
posed to have fallen into the hands of a trading company, and for whose 
ransom a large number of horses was offered. 

It is needless to say our hero was the subject of this request, and, in or- 
der to conciliate their good will and place the new-formed treaty upon a 



RELIGIOUS TENETS OF MOUNTAIN TRIBES. 299 



permanent basis, word was forwarded to his benefactor, Fitzpatrick, inform- 
ing him of the circumstance. 

Friday, for this was the name by which the Indian youth had now be- 
come known, on hearing the proposal of his relatives, steadily refused com- 
pliance, declaring the whites to be his only relatives, and that with them he 
would live and die. 

Subsequently, however, he was persuaded to accompany his guardian to 
the mountains, expecting shortly to revisit the States. Here his father and 
mother came forward to claim him as their long-lost son. 

But the lapse of seven years had served to efface all the recollections of 
early childhood. Parents and friends were alike strangers to him ; he re- 
fused to own them, and recoiled from their advances. Their language 
grated upon his ear in a confused jargon of unknown sounds. His mother 
wept from mingled emotions of grief and joy, while his father and brothers 
pressed their mouths in unfeigned astonishment. Still his obstinacy waa 
unyielding, and the united entreaties of relatives failed to exert upon him 
the least influence. 

At length, the arguments and advice of the fur traders induced him to 
visit the Arapahos village, where he was received with distinguished honor 
by his relatives and nation. Every one hastened to pay him respect,-- 
while feast succeeded feast, and council succeeded council, to welcome his 
return, and the little boy, who, seven years before — lost amid the cheerless 
sands of the American Desert, and weakened by hunger and suffering — 
had lain down to die upon the bank of the Cimarone, now found himself 
suddenly made iamous as the " Little Chief " of his tribe,-— the " Arapaho 
American." 

Honor, whose potent spell exerts its influence upon older heads and 
more enlightened minds, gradually reconciled him to the rude mode of life 
his destiny seemed to mark out, and he again became identified with the 
associations of former years. 

Still, however, he retains an undiminished attachment to the whites, and 
continues to merit and command their esteem. His character, for honesty, 
integrity, and sobriety, has as yet stood unimpeached. A chief by birth, 
he might assert a more prominent station among his people ; but he declines 
it, with the noble resolve : — " Until by my own achievements I have earned 
that honor, I shall never consent to become a chief; for certainly, then my 
people will listen to me !" 

The hero of the above sketch is now on his way to visit his friends in 
St. Louis for the second time, and is at present my only travelling com- 
panion. As such I find him agreeable and interesting. I am indebted to 
him for much valuable information relative to the habits and peculiarities 
of his own and various other Indian tribes, while his vast fund of ready 
anecdotes and amusing stories serves to beguile the weariness of camp 
hours. 

The religious peculiarities of the mountain tribes furnished us a theme 
for frequent conversation, inasmuch as their sentiments with regard to a 
future existence are strangely interesting in detail. Most of them are 
firm believers in the immortality of the soul, as well as the conditicsn of 
rewuds and punishments after death — though some accredit the Hindr>o 



300 THE WATER BULL. 

notions of metamorphosis or metempsychosis, while yet a very few look 
for annihilation. 

The majority, however, aver that the good, at death, after a long- and 
tedious journey, reach a happy country, abundant in everything the heart 
can desire, or thought conceive of ; where, free from pain and sickness, and 
removed from every ill, they shall bask forever in the sunshine of perfect 
beatitude. 

To aid in this long journey, horses are occasionally sacrificed for the 
feeble and decrepit, (more generally squaws and aged warriors,) that, by 
mounting their disembodied chargers, the spirits of the deceased may gain a 
speedy entrance within its confines and taste the joys of their eternal home. 

Of those adhering to different opinions, some believe in the transmission 
of souls from body to body through successive ages ; and others, that they 
become the spirits of either men or animals, according to the virtues or 
demerits of the departed. 

With regard to the final allotment of the wicked, their general theology 
consigns them to an interminable wandering over a desert waste, without 
purpose or rest, or even one moment's respite from their miseries, and sub- 
ject to all the bitter pangs of hunger, thirst, and nakedness ; and tormented 
with the sudden and intolerable extremities of heat and cold. The Scrip- 
turian here will not fail to recognize an obscure delineation of the world 
of woe, as portrayed in the sacred writings. 

The ideas of some few, on the other hand, transform these condemned 
spirits into wild beasts or reptiles, but more frequently into prairie-dogs, 
that, by penance and suffering through a long succession of years, they 
may atone for previous misdeeds. 

Many incidents of adventure related by Friday would doubtless interest 
the general reader, but space precludes their insertion. However, I cannot 
refuse place to the following, as affording to the curious a more special 
matter of speculation. 

" On my return from an expedition against the Utahs," said he, " in 
crossing the mountain chain south of Long's Peak, I went in advance of 
the main party. 

" My course led over one of the highest points of the range, whose 
summit disclosed a level surface of considerable extent. While passing 
leisurely along, the crowing of a mountain fowl, a short distance to the 
right, caught my ear. (There are fowls in some parts of the mountains 
similar to those raised by the whites, — but they are very wild and shy.) 
Following the sound, I was led to the verge of a small lake, with steep 
banks of rock, and sat down by it, in hopes of discovering the object of 
my curiosity. 

'• While here, my attention was directed to a strange movement in the 
lake-waters, accompanied by a loud noise and turmoil ; soon after which 
a large creature arose from the middle and swam to the shore, where he 
stood upon a rock in full view. His looks frightened me. In size he 
was equal to the largest buffalo, and much like one of those animals in 
form ; he was black, with a singularly shaped head, and had tusks in- 
stead of horns, which curved downward. 

" He looked so terrible I hurried away as quick as possible, and re- 



SEPARATE ROUTES. 301 

lated my adventure on rejoining the party. The old men laughed at my 
expressions of wonder — assertmg that they had before seen such creatures 
in the high mountain-lakes, and called them ' water bulls.^ " 

Resuming our course, we travelled by easy stages for five succeeding 
days, which brought us to Council Grove, a noted place of rendezvous 
for Santa Fe companies. 

The intervening country from Cow creek exhibits an entire change in 
its geological character. The landscape is gently undulating, and fur- 
rowed by frequent watercourses. Timber is becoming more abundant. 
The soil appears humid, and presents an air of general fertility. The 
grasses also differ in their species and assume a lusty growth. 

The sand-hills which had before skirted the Arkansas, as the traveller 
advances, lose their naked deformity amid dense groves of timber, and 
finally disappear in the distance. 

There is throughout a marked scarcity of game common to the grand 
prairies, and everything denotes an approach to the frontiers of civiliza- 
tion. 

Council Grove is a stream of considerable magnitude, tributary to the 
Osage river, and, by the Santa Fe trail, is one hundred and forty-four miles 
west of Independence. Its bottoms are broad, fertile, and well timbered 
with heavy forests of oak, walnut, maple, and most other varieties of 
wood indigenous to the States. 

The country in its vicinity is highly interesting to the agriculturist, 
and presents a soil remarkable for its fertility, inviting the hand of indus- 
try to a rich reward. 

Here, too, all the varied products of the farmer might find a ready cash 
market, from the numerous mountain and Spanish companies that con- 
stantly pass and repass, and, doubtlessly, at commanding prices. This 
locality, in fact, being situated upon the very verge of the grand prairie, 
aflfords a most eligible point for a settlement, and will doubtless soon ac- 
quire a merited importance as the place of general out-fit and supply for 
the western and southwestern trade. 

Through the agency of Friday I became acquainted with the existence 
of a vegetable found in these parts, which is known as the prairie-potato. 
This attains a size almost equalling our common potato. It is of a rough, 
knotty appearance, somewhat oviform, and when cooked is dry and 
sweet tasted. It is found generally in the banks of watercourses, and 
produces a low ground-vine, not dissimilar to a species of that vegetable 
usual to warm climates. 

We were detained here for five or six days, by a continuous rain 
which raised the creek to an extraordinary height, — overflowing its banks 
and completely flooding its extensive bottoms. So sudden was the rise 
that we were compelled to move camp three times in the course of an 
hour, and were final'y driven to an adjoining hill. 

Improving the first interval of fair weather presenting itself, I bade 
adieu to my Indian companion and renewed my journey alone, as our 



303 CIVILIZED INDIANS. 

routes led in different directions, his for Independence, Mo., and mine for 
Van Buren, Ark. Following the course of the creek by its right bank for, 
some twenty miles, I then struck over to the Neosho, and, continuing on,, 
uie fourth day subsequent I reached the Osage village. 

The country passed in travelling this distance, presented much excellent 
land. The creek valleys were broad and heavily timbered, and the adjoin- 
ing prairies undulating and clothed with luxuriant vegetation. The streams 
were so swollen I was forced to swim most of them, which rendered my 
progress one continued scene of toilsome and perilous adventure. 

My stay at the Osage village was prolonged for two days, during which :. 
time I was kindly entertained by a chief who served as my host. 

The Osages number between four and five thousand souls, and inhabit j 
the section of country bordering upon the Neosho river. Their territory t 
is well timbered, abundantly watered, and remarkably fertile. 

In dress and appearance these Indians assimilate the Pawnees and Caws;^ 
but their dwellings are neater and more spacious, being constructed of wa^ ' 
ter-flags fastened to frame-works of poles, so ingeniously thatched and 
tightly interwoven as to prevent the ingress of either wind or rain. 

This tribe are beginning to make advances in civilization, and devote 
some little attention to agriculture. A farmer and blacksmith are furnish- 
ed them by the U. S. Government, while the philanthropic efforts of the 
American Board of Missions are directed to their amelioration with consid- 
erable success. 

On resuming my course, a branch of the Neosho which intercepted it . 
proved unfordable, and its passage was otherwise rendered particularly dan- 
gerous on account of the swiftness of its current. However, my landlord, 
on seeing my determination to cross at all hazards, procured two large 
pieces of raw hide, which were firmly sewn together in boat shape and 
held to their proper position by slender boughs ; these he conveyed to the 
stream, and desired me to put my baggage into them, remarking that 
there was " plenty room " for myself, too. Following his directions, the 
frail bark was soon launched and towed to the opposite shore by a son of 
the old man, who swam across for that purpose, whiler his brother, leading 
my mule after him, plunged into the current, and in a few moments every- 
thing was safely landed. 

To reward this generous act I presented the old chief with a blanket, 
and bade him remember that " Good acts pay a sure tribute to a good 
heart, for they nourish its possessor with happy thoughts ; very often, too, 
they yield a twofold return by the gratitude of the one upon whom such 
acts are bestowed ; and then, again, sometimes the practiser is more than 
blessed by the acceptance of such presents as the grateful one may chance 
to offer. So, let my brother always do good, and the Good Spirit will own ' 
him as a subject well worthy of his special blessing." 

Bidding the friendly natives adieu, I mounted my mule and hurried on- 
ward. My course led through the territory occupied by a division of the 
Shawnees, and that settled by the Quapaws and Cherokees. These tribes 
are partially civilized ; but the Cherokees are farther advanced in refine- 



CONCLUSION. 303 



ment than any other Indian nation I am acquainted with. In fact, they are 
better educated, better livers, and a better people than their immediate 
white neighbors upon the frontiers of Arkansas and Missouri. 

Late in the afternoon of July 4th I reached Van Buren,my point of des- 
tination, happy again to mingle amid scenes and associations from which I 
had been so long separated ; and here I would take leave of the reader, 
provided I have been so honored as to command his interest and attention 
thus far. If the preceding pages have added aught to his stock of useful 
information, or served to while away a leisure hour agreeably, the object 
which primarily influenced their publication will have been accomplished,— 
if contrariwise, it remains for me to beg pardon for the trespass I have un- 
designedly committed upon his time and patience. 



